In 2005 I bought an AR-B from Armalite. It was my first AR and I didn't know much about AR's. It has been a wonderful rifle. I have hunted with it, shot dear with it and run three-gun matches with it. However in the beginning the recoil was so nasty that I got a recoil reducing stock from fab defense. I put it in and everything worked fine, until recently that is. I now have cycling problems. My first attempt to fix it was to install a cryptic coatings bolt carrier group. There was no difference. I cleaned and lubricated it thoroughly of course and also took the gas tube apart and make sure that was okay and it was. Still no improvement. I took it to a gunsmith and he ran 40 rounds of 150 grain ammo through it with no problems. I told him I was shooting 180 grain and he said that might be the problem but it's always shot 180 gr well before. So I started to look into other things and I started with the buffer tube and buffer weight. I found I had an H buffer and a spring that looked like it was in good shape but it has only 33 coils and is 13 5/8 in long. This doesn't seem like any kind of a standard spring that I have read about. At this point I am confused as that spring doesn't seem to match any spring I know about. I don't remember much about what I did when I put in the fab defense stock but I think the spring and the buffer tube are the original Armalite buffer weight and spring. At this point I am lost as to what could be causing this problem to occur after working so well for so long. Any advice/help would be appreciated.

Rangeman7130

Anyone carrying things? Trying to get my hands on one in .308 (not the M, I ain't rich) but having a hard time finding. Best case just to order from my local store that is a dealer?

Smith and Wesson m&p10

B5 systems stock, bcm pistol grip, sig tango 1-6, aim sport low profile handguard, magpul shorty vert grip, and a Harris s-brm bipod.

Maybe looking at adding a surefire warden blast regulator and an olight.

Any tips/pointers?

Question of the day…rack and stack these 3 rifles on which order you would buy them in. Diamondback DB10, Rugar SFAR, Springfield Saint Victor V2.

I don’t want to build my own, I want to shoot suppressed, it’s will be for shooting hogs in Florida and guided hunts in Texas for white tail and exotics.

My budget is $2,000.00 so if you have a better recommendation that is appreciated as well!

Aero precision 18" 308

Found the reason why I was getting failure to feeds in the new Magpul Dmag.

For whatever reason, if I cycle rounds through the mag by hand outside of the gun using my fingers, the next round gets pushed up to the top of the feed lips just fine.

If I manually cycle it through the rifle, the next round below it hangs up and is just a few millimeters short of being loaded to the top of the mag feed lips. If I give the bottom a few whacks with my hand, the next round creeps up against the lips and is ready to be stripped.

The inside of the mag looks fine. No scratches or burrs for the rounds to hang up on. The only thing I can think of is that when inserted into the magwell, the lower is compressing/squeezing the neck of the mag slightly and adding a tiny bit of resistance to the rounds stacked on top and they're not moving freely.

Did I get a bad mag. Or has anyone else ran into this before?

Heres some pics of a fresh drum before slamming bolt home. Then what it looks like after extracting a round with the charging handle. You can see the gap clearly.

Got a 50 rounder Magpul drum for my AR10s.

I tried running it on both my 22" and 18" AR10s.

I had a failure to feed every single time on both guns. I didnt even finish half of the mag before I called it quits and didn't have time to troubleshoot because my range time was almost over.

The bolt is trying to feed the round, but to me it looks like the magazine spring isn't pushing up the next round fast enough. The bolt on both guns is cycling so fast that its already halfway passed the next round and almost to the chamber when it jams. Every single round is getting dented by the bolt, I think its from the mag trying to push the round upwards but the bolt face is already past the rim of the case so it is pressing against the bolt in motion and gets all chewed up and jams.

Anybody else have issues running drum mags? I have an AGB on both but didn't try closing it off to slow down the bolt. Will try that next chance I get.

Any suggestions besides using a heavier spring/buffer? Is this common with Magpul drums? I've seen plenty of AR10 FRT setups with guys running these same drums flawlessly, that's what I'm trying to do here.

Thanks!

Anyone have experience with BKF handguards or Troy handguards for an aero M5 (non enhanced)? What kind of barrel nut do they use? Any other suggestions for goot rails? Idk when aero is releasing another batch of their r-ones

Looking to get my first AR 10, looking for something very accurate and reliable. I pretty much have it narrowed down between the LMT Mars H 16 in. 308 battle rifle version. I’ve found one in new condition but from an individual for around $2700. Was originally going with the PWS MK216 mod 2, PWS is around the same price and I have heard good things about both.
I know LMT has a great track record and makes amazing products, and the PWS is a brand new release so not a whole lot out about the gun. I’ve heard great things about their customer service so would assume it won’t be a problem dealing with any issues.
Looking for a gun for the potential on PRS and will be accurate if I do my part.
Thank you for any recommendations/advice!!

Good evening Reddit,

I recently posted a 6.5cm I had put together about 4mo ago. It's supposed to be a M110A3/SR25A3 "at home" build but the rail feels flimsy (it was ~$75 so I wasn't expecting good quality) and I want to find something better made. Anyone know of any good 19"/18" handguards for a DPMS low upper? Seen posts about this topic before but nothing withing the last year from what I could find. All and any help appreciated.

Hey yall has anyone had any luck attaching a Bear Creek Arsenal 308 upper to the Anderson ar 10 lower??
I don’t have an Anderson upper and I’d hate to just toss this lower

I’m building a AR-10 in 6.5 Creedmoor and I have a FAB defense GL shock buttstock. I’m trying to decide the pros and cons of both and would like some input from other builders. I want everything to work together nicely for recoil management.

I love and hate the quick change barrel system of LMT! Love it because I can have a bunch of different barrels for different scenarios, and hate it because now I have a bunch of barrels and can never decide which i like best. Pictured is the 16" 7.62 Piston and the 13.5 7.62 with a KAC suppressor.

I ordered another KAC muzzle device for the piston barrel so I'll be able to run both suppressed, but which one you choosing?

I am using the SR25 flair because LMTs are SR25 pattern rifles.

Aero m5 upper/lower reciever, Toolcraft bolt carrier w Fulton armory bolt/criterion m118lr barrel 18”, bkings handguard, armaspec silent buffer system, Larue MBT2s, PST II 2-10 on a nightforce mount. Budget friendly in the right places

If you remember my post a few months ago I was stuck between two options. I went with the Alex Pro.

Equipped with:
• Sig Sauer Tango MSR compact 1-8
• Accutac MLok bipod. (Buy once cry once)
• Samson aluminum grip. ( I like my long foregrips)

Still looking to add the Sycthe-TI silencer along with a limb saver pad and a cheek riser, but my credit cards Hurtin right now so that’ll have to wait.

I will have to wait until Tuesday to go out for the first shots. So excited!

I’ve wanted a .308 for many years, and now it’s here.

I have yet to run rounds through it, but once it’s broken in, I want to explore FRTing it.

I know it’s DPMS Gen1, apparently the BCG is geometrically appropriate for it, from what I can find.

Anyone have any resources to help me research it? I don’t want to void the warranty so I’m open to grabbing a blem lower I can modify

I have had this gas block for years now I just slipped it on the barrel it has no markings on it its missing the pin for the gas tube. im trying to see if I can order another pin if its worth it or if I should just toss it and order a brand new gas block .

Howdy,

To keep it short I know there are different specs for “AR10” patterned rifle. Is there a resource that helps explain the different specs properly so I can build one? Is it even worth building with a budget like 2000$ or is buying an “of the shelf” rifle more with it.

Should I just bite the bullet save a little more and buy a SCAR in .308?

Any help or learning resources you can offer is greatly appreciated