I’m considering fitting my Gewehr 98 with a Brazilian M1908 stock for the range.

Will the stock require any inletting to fit a G98 trigger guard?

Will a g98 bayonet lug / end cap still pin onto the end?

Hoping one of you has been down this road before.

Hello,
I recently bought a barrel in a commission sale from a gun shop for quite little money.

The barrel and bolt are from a ce 1943 from Sauer Sohn, factory, and are presumably of a certain kriegsmodell.

However, the gun itself has been repurposed and refitted by the Norwegian military for .30-06, and seeing the condition of the bluing applied by them I would think the gun is in good condition. The broker told me it was in good condition and “not used” which I now really don’t know how to interpret😅

*The main issue is* , when I see the barrel, it seems very pitted and it had a lot of dried waxy “cosmoline” in it, but which I have now wiped away with a bore brush.

*What I was wondering is* whether the bore’s condition is somehow derived from the Norwegian rechambering (7,92->7,62) and just not being well fitted, or being that something else might have happened. Has it been reblued, is it from a last batch of rifles explaining why it hasn’t been worn even slightly?
Is the barrel maybe older or does anyone know about the typical standard quality of a Norwegian bore?
The blueing on the gun doesn’t seem like very deviant from other Norwegian mausers I’ve seen. Also take note of how the barrel and receiver number does not “match”. I was potentially thinking it is standard quality and just needs to have its cracks filled with bullet patching.

Finally, I have a question about the general condition before the thing was once reblued.
Does the bolt reveal heavy use beneath the new blueing? Would it presumably not last very long although being qualified by the Norwegian army?

I hope those are not too many questions, and I hope that someone finds it at least interesting to study without finding it boring. Don’t feel a need to answer I’m just throwing some line out. Thanks anyways 🙂

Looks like my front sight on this Yugo is slightly off “to the right” when lining up with the rear sight.

Appears the sight was tinned on out of alignment. What’s the easiest way to re tin the sight on correctly. Apply heat and just move it over or will I have to remove it and tin the barrel with specific solder and flux?

What will I need. I have soldered plenty of copper plumbing pipes but I’m taking this is much different?

Had it in a bag of random parts.

I want to put a scope on my turkish mauser, but I don't want to ruin an original forend or stock, so are there any companies that make reproduction stocks and forends for mauser rifles

What are your tips for finding G98 stocks?

I’ve considered buying a deactivated rifle and borrowing the stock off of it. There’s one on GB now, but it’s a bit overpriced.

Just picked this bad boy up and absolutely loving the history behind this particular variant of the Gewehr 98

I swear I've only hears people praising this ammo since it hit the market. While nice and accurate, 7 of 15 are atleast two strikes before they go off. If they do for me

Inherited this from my grandpa. Finally found it in his attic after hearing about it for 30yrs.

I bought it off a buddy for real cheap, was wondering if anyone knew the backstory to these rifles and/or if they’re worth anything. thanks!

It’s apparently matching but the bolt. No import stamp. But 3 things stick out to me. Serial on the front band, serial on the BOTTOM of the rear band and the trigger guard showing a byf stamp. Fonts look similar to the font of the serial on the barrel. But any info would be terrific.

I have an RC k98 and I “restored” it to its former glory. Reblued with period correct bluing and took that ugly shellac off the stock and used boiled linseed oil. However, out of curiosity (I know it’s mismatched and what not) but was it common to find solid walnut stocks on 1939 sauer rifles? Or is this when they started to go laminate? I may be interested in changing the stock to what it should be but at the same time this stock has a bunch of stamps on it. So I’m fighting myself here. What do you guys think? Serial is 8725h if that helps for any reason.

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping to get some help identifying and valuing this Mauser K98. My friend is downsizing his collection and looking to sell a few firearms, including this one. Neither of us is very familiar with K98s, so we’re trying to determine what would be a fair price.

I’ve attached photos of the rifle and any markings I could find. Any information on the manufacturer, production year, matching numbers, originality, or approximate value would be greatly appreciated.

I’d like to make him a fair offer, so any insight from the community would be a huge help.

Thanks in advance!

I have this lion crested vz24, 1939 czech acceptance stamps, and its definitely a rifle I appreciate as its totally an old soldier with a story to tell, but when it comes to rifling it has "some" rifling for sure. It was counterbored at some point by the Romanians or someone. With m24 barrels being cheap and plenty at the moment, im considering having it rebarreled to give it a new lease on life. Obviously I need a Smith who can not only remove the safety breech from the yugo barrel, but also turn down the muzzle end to accommodate the vz24's unique front sight base. Any 98 Smith recommendations?

I got this Kar98 I want to get rid of and I had it on GB and a guy bought it for $1,300 but returned it because it was a refurb I don’t know the real value thanks (if anyone interested pm it’ll be on GB)

I was refinishing my already refinished rifle to a more authentic finish when I noticed this mark. It’s a 1918 DWM Gewehr 98M in 7.92x57 that was given to Spain during the SCW. (It lacks the 1920 stamp and the sight was updated around 1935) It had an MP8 flaming bomb stamp. I couldn’t find anything on this stamp. Anybody know what it is?

1916 Erfurt 98a 17.5" 1-8.5 6.5x55

It's a real bastard move putting an LPVO on a Mauser sporter but it's damn sexy.