Henry case hardened 45-70 with a Sig Sauer Tango MSR 1-8x24.

I have a Henry Big Boy X in 45/70, see pic, but 45/70 ammo can get pricy real quick if you plan on shooting 100 rounds in a day. So was looking at the 30.30 option with either Henry or Marlin (Ruger) and wanted to see what people thought about the Henry SPD Hush 30.30 vs Marlin Dark 330 30.30.

Ive been looking for a good way to carry my levers around with me. After being spoiled on all my autoloaders its hard to want anything less than strapped across my chest "snug" enough to not rattler but also easy to go from slung to shooting. I also would like it useable as a tensioner when aiming.

For a lever gun with no contact points for a sling this is a pretty huge ask. Especially give I refuse to drill holes in my levers.

Well I finally found one that looked promising and it works!!! This is their full size. As you may have noticed I did the buttstock side upside down so that the rifle sits How I want it. I also wrapped the sling around the rear of the rifle one extra time so that it was the perfect length. The front goes on easy and doesnt block the sights even slightly. The reciever and barrel connection point (on my 73 and 92) act as the perfect spot to give the sling a "ridge" to hold onto.

Overall I am beyond happy with this sling. The only thing I would critque this on is not being adjustable in length, HOWEVER, I dont see a good way to make it adjustable without some kind of annoying piece of metal/plastic being "in the way" and making the sling much more uncomfortable.

9.5/10. If you hike with your lever guns this is a must buy, keeps access to the gun very quick.

Added this stock cover to my Winchester 92. Fit on easy. Put about 20 rounds of .44 magnum down range and made a much more comfortable session. The one thing about this gun is the steel ended butt stock really starts to hurt my shoulder after a while.

First lever gun! I am picking up a 1974 Marlin 336 JM from my neighbor after his father passed. I have searched the sub and some sites online, and have not been able to get a definitive answer.

I’m wondering if anyone has experience with these accepting stocks/fore ends made for modern 336 models. I’ve seen some that say they fit 2009 and later models, and others state they fit any model. I am planning on keeping all original parts, maybe eventually redoing the stock and fore end in the original look. But I wanted to go the laminate/wood route for the new ones, just maybe in a different stain.

Other than that my plan was just to make some super minor changes like a new trigger and a different lever for easier gloved shooting. I’ll be replacing the scope as well but haven’t decided on going standard or scout style.

Glad to be part of the lever gun world!

Just picked this up from a friend

19 and this is my first gun, i don’t particularly know much about it besides from my buddy who passed a while back, figured id post it here and maybe find out a thing or two?

The rifle

I’m absolutely loving this setup. Upgrading to this from my Rossi 92 / Levtac has been a big improvement, it's built better, nicer trigger, the loading gate doesn't want to hurt me, and it chambers smoother.

I just hit the 700 round mark today. I threw the scout scope on it with one goal: Build a genuinely fun, do-it-all rifle, and I think this does it.

Home defense? It's .357 Mag, so it'll get the job done. Mag dumping into trash at the range? Way more satisfying than running a semi-auto. A woods gun? It's not heavy, hard-hitting, and has a light mounted on it. Hunting? Sure, for anything deer-sized or smaller. Teaching new folks how to shoot? I have a weak 357 load that has negligible recoil.

Build Breakdown:

• KVP Modular Linear Comp (I dream of suppressing but not while I'm in NY)
• Vortex 1.5-5.5x Scout Scope + Vortex Pro Med Rings
• RPP 1854 Stock + RPP Cheek Riser + Quiver
• Slate Black Industries Slate Stop
• Arisaka WML + Surefire UE Tailcap + Unity Modbutton Lite on an Arisaka Inline Mount

I've done plenty of close-range drills, dumping rounds into a 2x2" target at 7 yards, hovering around 0.55–0.60s split times with the Vortex set to 1.5x magnification. Plinking at 7–25 yards is a blast, but I wanted to see what this rifle could actually do precision-wise.

Here's an old video of me shooting it:

https://reddit.com/link/1v32mvv/video/cw4blubvvoeh1/player

The Accuracy Part

I started off at 50 yards using my standard bulk range ammo. The initial results were pretty disappointing: groups were opening up to 2+ inches, suggesting a 4+ MOA gun.

Knowing the S&W 1854 has a significantly heavier barrel profile and tighter build tolerances than my old Rossi, I figured it had to be an ammo compatibility issue rather than the gun itself. So I loaded my own.

I used Hornady XTP 158gr projectiles, PMC brass, H110 powder, & CCI primers, and frankly, results were night and day. Across 50 rounds, the rifle averaged 1.76 MOA. Turns out the rifle just severely dislikes PMC factory ammo. My best group was a 1.1 MOA 5 round group, but best I can seem to do consistently without a rear bag is right around 1.5 MOA.

Towards the end of the range session, I noticed my shots stringing horizontally. Which made sense without a rear bag, I could see a bit of reticle wobble as I lined up each shot. On my next trip, I’ll be bringing a rear bag to stabilize the stock properly and shoot true 10 round groups.

For a rifle with a non free floated barrel chambered in a pistol caliber with the aerodynamics of a brick, I think 1.5 MOA is a good place to be.

This lever action is so addictive! I need a discount 45-70 ammo connection 😵‍💫

Found a Marlin 336 in 30-30 at the pawn shop the other day. Put my name on it after it gets out of hawk. It’s a 16” barrel with very nice light wood grain stock. In great shape. Sorry no pics. He’s wanting $900 for it. He said it’s a Remington era gun but later years. Thought I got the serial # but after looking at it I don’t believe it is. It’s a QR code with MR3362I. With this information is this a good price? Thanks in advance.

So I have a rosi r92 45lc and I wqnt to stsrt hunting with it. Just ordered a scope mount and want to know whats the best +p rounds for it or if I can even use those rounds?

Found a scuffed up form stock on tacswap. It was a dark brown, tried dying it darker.

Think I maybe went too dark....

Besides the Cimerron costing much less vs the Chiappa, can anyone tell me if it to a night and day difference between them? I’d like to get into CAS. I know a pump Winchester repro 97 would be faster but I love the 1887 style.

Well in an attempt to re-stain the furniture on my Rossi R95, I learned the hard way that they use stained varnish on their very cheap wood. It turned out looking like dookie, so I had no choice but to paint wood. Didn't turn out too bad but felt wrong the entire time.

I’m interested in looking to get an easier storage for movement with ammunition. I could just stick a pouch on my molle belt, but I feel like that’s no fun.

I’d love to hear/see what other’s do!

I finally had time to get out and try this 03a3 sight on the supreme lever. I have two front sight post I'm deciding on. One was not tall enough and I shot very low at 25 yards. This post I had to go all the way down and I'm a little high. So I'm still working on my favorite iron sight for this rifle.

After 6 or 8 months of waiting and searching, I finally got one: a SBL in 45-70

Now will be looking for some optic for it

Took a gamble on a deal. got lucky, she runs smooth. no issues at all.

Dressed her up in some new furniture.

Now I'm looking for suggestions on a flat trigger upgrade, any suggestions?

Hey all. Got an 1895 I finally got around to sighting in today. Thing is a joy to shoot, however, my scope is maxed out on upward adjustment and I’m still shooting about 6” low at 100 yards. Any ideas on how to raise my point of impact up? It’s about dead nuts 50 and under. I’m running a Leopold vx3 2.5-8 on and game reaper medium one piece scope mounts. I’ve heard of scope shims but I don’t know much about them. Any other solutions? Swap rings? Shim it? Thanks for any help!

Hey guys!

My Henry Long Ranger 308 appears to be broken, and I'm curious if anyone has experienced this same mode of failure before.

I was at the range earlier this week when the bolt wouldn't lock into battery. Upon closer inspection, I was actually able to get the bolt sliding back and forth, without moving the lever. No bueno!

I got home and disassembled the rifle to find that the gears in the trigger box had sheared off. (See pics 1 vs 2). Has anyone else seen this issue?

DISCLAIMER: I have submitted a warranty request to Henry already. It's currently the weekend, I plan to call them Monday morning. I'll update with what they say. I am not here to complain and curse them. I've heard only good things about their warranty process.

Strictly just curious if I'm the only one who has seen this issue.

For any of those that are interested in this trigger.

Stock trigger (3 Pull Average) : 4 lbs and 1.7oz

Timney Trigger (3 Pull Average): 1lb and 11.7oz

Does anyone know the dimensions of this screw or where I can source a new one?