So, I used to do a good bit of completion shooting with a club I was part of when I was in Highschool. I haven’t in a while and am no longer part of the club. I used their rifles or ones loaned to use by members for competitions.

Edit: quick clarification, I’m looking at mainly PRS and NLR competitions. So that’s what I’d do this build for.

I’m now trying to get back into it, and currently only have a Ruger American in 6.5 Creedmore. It’s a great gun and I love it. But am wondering if upgrading it would be worth it at all for competitions. Looking to do around 1000m, and maybe up to 1,200m, as I know that’s about the max range I can get out of 6.5.

So basically, my main question is, is it worth putting on a nicer chassis, and possibly upgrading the barrel in the future, or am I better off just saving up to get a nicer rifle?
If upgrading the Ruger American isn’t worth doing in this manner, I’d appreciate just being told that upfront, and I’ll save my money towards the precision rifle I’d like to get at some point anyways.

Ideally if I can build the Ruger to be a good competition gun, I’m willing to go up to maybe ~$1000 total. A couple of the more expensive chassis I was looking at where the ghost mountain group chassis, which would be ~$1,150 total, so I don’t want to do that unless it’s decently worth it, cheaper options where the sharp bros heatseaker chassis, which would be roughly $800, and then a couple of the cheaper MdT chassis in the $450-600 range.

Preferably, I’d like the chassis to have a folding stock, or a 1913 (or buffer tube I can convert to 1913) interface for sticks. As I would love to run this stock specifically:

https://1913stocks.com/the-s-a-s-tactical-folding-stock

But I’m open to any other chassis that are decent with folding stocks as well!

I’d also probably swap the trigger at somepoint as well.
The barrel is something I’d upgrade later once I felt the barrel was holding me back more than my shooting skills.

Hey all,

Just stumbled onto this one today. Anyone have experience with this company and aftermarket KRG forend?

**EDIT**

Company is Australian based. So its currently listed @ $695.00 AUD which at this time roughly translates to $685.00 CAD or $485.00 USD

I've taken my new, unshot, b14 apart to check the torque values and clean it up. There is some paint already missing on the recoil lug area and the action areas are completely painted. Should I just finish removing the paint or leave it be? Thanks for the advice.

I recently fell into a Remington 700 G LH in 223 and I’m looking for ammo recs for the snail like twist rate. I’m hoping someone may have some insight as to good ammo in the lighter grain variety. I have no idea why the original owner went with this set up, he’s also since passed so asking him is not particularly an option.

Goal: practice and potentially shooting in local PRS comps that go out to 600. And maybe getting my partner into PRS. I AM NOT TRYING TO BE COMPETITIVE, I JUST WANT TO HAVE MORE FUN MORE CHEAPER. I have a Tikka in 6.5CM if I want to be serious.

What I know about the rifle: Remington action, with what I’m speculating is an M24 profile barrel with a measured twist rate of 1:12. Stock appears to be a hybrid chassis.

What I know about ammo: Looks like, from charts online, 55 grain is the heaviest I can stabilize at 1-12. I’ve read that the PMC X-Tac is decent, and I’ve found some Bonefrog (out of stock) in 55 grain. I have some Blackhills that I plan to try, but being 77 grain I’m worried they won’t stabilize and my patterns will fall apart at 3-400. Federal XF556TR55 also looks like it may be decent?

Fun fact: I am not left handed! But I got the rifle for a steal and can comfortably hold the rifle right handed and work the bolt left, so I’m going to give it a try before I move it on to someone else. I’m also stuck at training for a while so I’m trying to have ammo on hand for when I get to go to a range day I can try several things.

Hi, picture a little misleading they would both be in 6.5CM 24" barrel. Price Tikka 2.7K / CZ 3.1K

I can go shoot around 4 times per year 1000yards but involves usually an 1h ruck, thats all I would do occasional 1000yards on steel and pushing as far possible as ranges allows. Can shoot almost anyday 100yards so would like a 22lr trainer matching the chosen gun, as close a possible. Not chosen yet but spare 1k on side for beginner Optic. Shot many rifles up to 300yards.

If I may ask: What would you choose and why? (In rifle and trainer)

New Vortex Razor G3 6x36-56
Told the ol' wife that I snagged it for cheap so if she ask.....it was only 500$ 😭

This thing has crazy clear glass and pretty much what everyone else was saying. Just beautiful. Was debating getting this or NX6 or MK5HD. Glad I chose this. This will be going onto a 6.5CM MPA Vanquish ARC CDG- Match Hellfire

Hopefully can take her out soon

I'm mainly just plinking off a bag around 400-500 yards. Just wondering what some good bipods i could look at say under $200​

HOWA 1500

KRG bravo

Vortex venom 5-25

Balled out on a new to me MPA Chassis. 25 Creedmoor KS arms SA3R action. M40A5 + L96 Vibe

I have just taken the dive into long range and precision and I found my barrel has this pitting in the chamber collecting carbon now as well.

I have taken boretec to it, soaked, a ton of patches, and to boot JB bore paste with a drill (yes I did that).

Any help ?

So, I’m trying to find a storage container around 1”x2”x4”, give or take, with MLOK attachment points.
The idea is to have the container’s axis in line with the chassis’ axis to keep it as low profile as possible. I want to keep all the small tools specific to my chassis and scope in it so I never have to find my range bag or dig through it to find the right tools.

Anyone seen anything like this?

Thanks yall!

New to this sport and will be competing in my first PRS match this weekend and am looking for ideas for dope cards...

what do you guys use for this?

I'm reading it's not worth trying until new brass is fully fire formed. So if that's the case what charger weight do you roll with the first couple firings on new brass? I have lapua srp brass, h4350, and probably going to start with 140 eldms for my 6.5. thanks!

Why dont more companies make ambi chassis? Im a left handed shooter and have alot of struggle finding the right chassis or if i do, they're out of stock. I have 4 manufacturers came into mind that are amazing for lefties; Vision, XLR, MPA and JP with their APAC.

All of them inlets their chassis in both left and right configuration. I get it for the composite based stocks (Manners, Mcmillan or KRG with their plastic) but full metal ones?

PS: I dont live in US/Canada

@mdt pls fix.

Long time lurker, first time poster from Australia. This is my Tikka T3X Super Varmint in 6.5CM that's in an MDT XRS chassis because I like it 😁

Tikka T3X Super Varmint

MDT XRS chassis

Element Optics Titan 5-25x56

Accu-Tac FC2 bipod

MDT Comp Brake

Currently shooting Norma Golden Target 130gr, but it kind of likes everything. I've had good luck worh Hornady ELD-M and also Sako TRG

I'll probably end up upgrading my scope a little further down the track too, but this is it for now. Very happy with it, but I think I'm just happy to be able to go shooting which is something I've wanted to do for a long time.

Which of these are you guys using? Seems like the military likes AI and competition guys like MDT. Is Magpul worth getting at all?

Update: there is also a 10 shot group in these pics.

I wrestled with a batch of decisions trying to buy a wrong-way long range rifle. I had a strong preference for a production rifle and really wanted to avoid the extended wait and delivery times of some custom shops.

One thing I noticed was that many of the larger manufacturers made left hand models in their lower grade rifles, but the higher end models were heavily right hand only. That wasn’t matching my goals. At the range, people were nice enough to let me handle their various rifles and I appreciate their generosity sharing what they know. While many of the target rifles had a flat forend with ARCA rail built in I did not like the feel of that flat bottom. I understand why many chassis are made that way. I just don’t like it. In any case a good M-LOK forend provided solid options.

I actually ordered a Tikka T3x TAC A1, added a scope, M-LOK bipod and short 60mm ARCA rail.

Then it was off to the range yesterday. Laser bore-sighted the new rifle at home, and the first three-shot group is the circular target. Adjusted the scope, shot some steel and then shot a 10 shot group. Both targets are posted with Ballistic-X notes. Factory 6.5 CM ammo was Norma 130 gr, then some Lapua 136 gr, and Hornady 140 gr ELD-M for the 10 shot group.

Time to start working on handloads. Will post toes once 10 shot group size under one inch.

After multiple gas guns I finally bought my first bolt gun. Its a 6.5cm B14 hmr and I have a couple questions. Ive read all the posts about the differences between the HMR and the Wilderness. Am I missing out by not waiting for a Wilderness? They had the HMR in stock.

Second question. I've read posts about making sure there is no paint between the stock and the action. Besides that is there anything else I should check for before I set it up and go out for the first time?

Hey everyone,

I'm putting together a new ELR setup and hoping someone can run some numbers in QuickLOAD for me, as well as gut-check my logic on powder selection.

The Setup Details:
Cartridge: .300 Norma Magnum (using a .245 freebore reamer, bullet pushed out to max for more case capacity)
Bullet: 250 grain Hornady A-Tip
Barrel: 36-inch
Powder: Hodgdon H50BMG
Charge: 86.0 grains -90 Grain

My Logic / Context: I currently run a 30" .300 NM using N570 and Retumbo. I am pushing Berger 245 with 82g retumbo to 2790.

I am building an additional 300NM on ARC CDG from the latest sale - Since I am stepping up to a massive 36" barrel (Brux -1:8 and Kreiger 1:9), I wonder ifI will see a gain by moving to an even slower powder like H50BMG to maximize value from the barrel (lower pressure same velocity or more velocity, either outcome is fine). Just tinkering.

Just doing some rough math, with the .245 freebore and the bullet pushed out, 86 grains should be close to a compressed load (if not already there). For reference, I checked Berger's data, and it looks like they've been able to push 91.6 grains of H50BMG at 104% compression for 2,766 fps out of a standard 26" barrel.

What I'm looking for:

QuickLOAD Data: Can someone run this 86gr -90g lload for me? I'd love to see the estimated potential pressure, velocity, dwell time, and percentage burn before bullet exit in the 36" barrel.

Sanity Check: Has anyone tried H50BMG with a super long barrel like this? Am I thinking about this right regarding the slower powder efficiency in the longer tube?
Thanks in advance!

Rifle: Bergara B14 HMR wilderness

Barrel: 1:10 26" heavy contour

I'm looking at developing a 300wm load for shooting steel out to a mile. I know there are better choices but 300wm is what I have. I'm outside the US so I don't have the options a lot of you guys have unfortunately.

I'm looking at loading either

- hornady ELDMs @ 225gr (possible stability issues)

- Berger LRHT @ 220gr

However, both of these exceed SAAMI COAL 3.340" and the vihtavuori data I have recommends 3.465".

Has anyone done similar and found the bergara chambers accept the extra COAL of the longer, heavier bullets?

Cheers

Who here has time behind ZeroTech scopes? Whether that be the Trace Advanced or the Thrive HD? They look promising but hard to find any posts about them on here or YouTube.

Context: listing a motorcycle for sale that’s worth about 2500$, guy wants to trade a masterpiece arms 6.5 creedmoor comp pro with a vortex venom 3-15, plus 200$. I guess my thoughts are what are the chances of being able to sell this for a decent price? I see the range for used ones can be 1800-2000 ish, if I’m not mistaken. but I understand this is kinda a niche hobby which shops have told me comp rifles aren’t the easiest to sell. He told me he hasn’t shot a single round through it but my buddies who regularly shoot said the pictures tell a different story, realistically if it was actually brand new I would just try to flip it but I would kinda want to put a few rounds through it before I sell it. so does it look like it hasn’t been shot? If it’s brand new how much could I sell it for realistically? And if I did shoot it how much would the value decrease? Also he said the bubble level was damaged when it shipped but he said it was only a couple bucks, so what would you guys do? Sorry for all the questions 😅

I'm looking for factory options other than the Tikka T3x. I didn't like how the chassis felt in my hands, and it's also more expensive. Since building one in California is such a headache, I'm leaning toward buying a factory rifle instead.

I have a 6.5 Creedmoor PRS rig and I’m starting my journey into presision reloading. I’m a bit overwhelmed with the options, as I understand the bergers are the gold standard but how do the others stack up.

Hornady: I hear a lot of people shit on them but I’ve had good luck with their factory options. I see people talking about jacket inconstancy with the 147s but it seems to be referencing fairly old info. Has that changed

Sierra: never shot them myself but always heard great things about them. Good value. BC seem underwhelming on paper

Barnes: don’t hear much chatter but price seems good

Anyone else in the running?

I’m running 1:8 so the 150+ are out I think

Thank you to everyone that gave suggestions on my last post. Went through the match stayed mostly dry and warm. Shower caps was a phenomenal suggestion that also worked for the uspsa match I did this weekend as well. For the most part it was fairly light rain but for 20-30 min it was a down pour. I was able to get 3rd overall and 1st in Sportmens. I was also able to get 3 out of 4 shots on steel out at 1029yds. I did however make a serious brain fart on a wind call that cost me many points. I had a ton of fun and learned a lot.