I recently fell into a Remington 700 G LH in 223 and I’m looking for ammo recs for the snail like twist rate. I’m hoping someone may have some insight as to good ammo in the lighter grain variety. I have no idea why the original owner went with this set up, he’s also since passed so asking him is not particularly an option.

Goal: practice and potentially shooting in local PRS comps that go out to 600. And maybe getting my partner into PRS. I AM NOT TRYING TO BE COMPETITIVE, I JUST WANT TO HAVE MORE FUN MORE CHEAPER. I have a Tikka in 6.5CM if I want to be serious.

What I know about the rifle: Remington action, with what I’m speculating is an M24 profile barrel with a measured twist rate of 1:12. Stock appears to be a hybrid chassis.

What I know about ammo: Looks like, from charts online, 55 grain is the heaviest I can stabilize at 1-12. I’ve read that the PMC X-Tac is decent, and I’ve found some Bonefrog (out of stock) in 55 grain. I have some Blackhills that I plan to try, but being 77 grain I’m worried they won’t stabilize and my patterns will fall apart at 3-400. Federal XF556TR55 also looks like it may be decent?

Fun fact: I am not left handed! But I got the rifle for a steal and can comfortably hold the rifle right handed and work the bolt left, so I’m going to give it a try before I move it on to someone else. I’m also stuck at training for a while so I’m trying to have ammo on hand for when I get to go to a range day I can try several things.

I've taken my new, unshot, b14 apart to check the torque values and clean it up. There is some paint already missing on the recoil lug area and the action areas are completely painted. Should I just finish removing the paint or leave it be? Thanks for the advice.

So, I’m trying to find a storage container around 1”x2”x4”, give or take, with MLOK attachment points.
The idea is to have the container’s axis in line with the chassis’ axis to keep it as low profile as possible. I want to keep all the small tools specific to my chassis and scope in it so I never have to find my range bag or dig through it to find the right tools.

Anyone seen anything like this?

Thanks yall!

Hi, picture a little misleading they would both be in 6.5CM 24" barrel. Price Tikka 2.7K / CZ 3.1K

I can go shoot around 4 times per year 1000yards but involves usually an 1h ruck, thats all I would do occasional 1000yards on steel and pushing as far possible as ranges allows. Can shoot almost anyday 100yards so would like a 22lr trainer matching the chosen gun, as close a possible. Not chosen yet but spare 1k on side for beginner Optic. Shot many rifles up to 300yards.

If I may ask: What would you choose and why? (In rifle and trainer)

I'm mainly just plinking off a bag around 400-500 yards. Just wondering what some good bipods i could look at say under $200​

HOWA 1500

KRG bravo

Vortex venom 5-25

Balled out on a new to me MPA Chassis. 25 Creedmoor KS arms SA3R action. M40A5 + L96 Vibe

New Vortex Razor G3 6x36-56
Told the ol' wife that I snagged it for cheap so if she ask.....it was only 500$ 😭

This thing has crazy clear glass and pretty much what everyone else was saying. Just beautiful. Was debating getting this or NX6 or MK5HD. Glad I chose this. This will be going onto a 6.5CM MPA Vanquish ARC CDG- Match Hellfire

Hopefully can take her out soon

New to this sport and will be competing in my first PRS match this weekend and am looking for ideas for dope cards...

what do you guys use for this?

Hey all,

Just stumbled onto this one today. Anyone have experience with this company and aftermarket KRG forend?

**EDIT**

Company is Australian based. So its currently listed @ $695.00 AUD which at this time roughly translates to $685.00 CAD or $485.00 USD

I have just taken the dive into long range and precision and I found my barrel has this pitting in the chamber collecting carbon now as well.

I have taken boretec to it, soaked, a ton of patches, and to boot JB bore paste with a drill (yes I did that).

Any help ?

So, I used to do a good bit of completion shooting with a club I was part of when I was in Highschool. I haven’t in a while and am no longer part of the club. I used their rifles or ones loaned to use by members for competitions.

Edit: quick clarification, I’m looking at mainly PRS and NLR competitions. So that’s what I’d do this build for.

I’m now trying to get back into it, and currently only have a Ruger American in 6.5 Creedmore. It’s a great gun and I love it. But am wondering if upgrading it would be worth it at all for competitions. Looking to do around 1000m, and maybe up to 1,200m, as I know that’s about the max range I can get out of 6.5.

So basically, my main question is, is it worth putting on a nicer chassis, and possibly upgrading the barrel in the future, or am I better off just saving up to get a nicer rifle?
If upgrading the Ruger American isn’t worth doing in this manner, I’d appreciate just being told that upfront, and I’ll save my money towards the precision rifle I’d like to get at some point anyways.

Ideally if I can build the Ruger to be a good competition gun, I’m willing to go up to maybe ~$1000 total. A couple of the more expensive chassis I was looking at where the ghost mountain group chassis, which would be ~$1,150 total, so I don’t want to do that unless it’s decently worth it, cheaper options where the sharp bros heatseaker chassis, which would be roughly $800, and then a couple of the cheaper MdT chassis in the $450-600 range.

Preferably, I’d like the chassis to have a folding stock, or a 1913 (or buffer tube I can convert to 1913) interface for sticks. As I would love to run this stock specifically:

https://1913stocks.com/the-s-a-s-tactical-folding-stock

But I’m open to any other chassis that are decent with folding stocks as well!

I’d also probably swap the trigger at somepoint as well.
The barrel is something I’d upgrade later once I felt the barrel was holding me back more than my shooting skills.