r/M1Rifles • u/CalligrapherNo9579 • 5h ago
What would you pay
Maybe thinking about selling my M1, if you saw it what would you be willing to pay honestly.
r/M1Rifles • u/Parratt • Nov 17 '22
Figured id share my process so you all at home can learn how to do it as well. its not cost effective to do this for a one off build. the tooling costs are not cheap and nearing $600 sadly. but its fun! and im sure a few of you will find this interesting
You're gonna need a few things.
A M1 Garand Parts Kit.
A Barrel Vice and Action wrench.
A Headspace gauge Go/No Go Set
A Chamber Reamer.
A Angle Finder
The whole build will start with you throwing the barrel into a barrel vice, ive used the bushing style ones made by a large company in the USA. but i dont like them. i much prefer these specific ones made out of Aluminum, they leave a bit of marring on the barrels but that will all be covered up by the upper hand guard
Second step will be to hand tighten your receiver onto the barrel. just get it as snug as you can. no action wrench is required at this time.
Once your barrel is hand tight, take the front sight off of your gas cylinder and put it on the barrel. we will use this as a flat base for our angle finding tool of choice. i am using a digital inclinometer but there are other options on the market. For me ill now zero off this sight base dovetail.
Now we check our draw off the rear heel of the receiver. there is a machined flat perfect for this. now unfortunately 31° is to far to torque this on, according to my shop manual specs. So this will be off to the lathe to remove .001" at a time off the barrel shoulder until i get a draw that is more in line with the specs im looking for 12° Min and 17° Max. I Got mine to 15.9° so i am happy with this.
in a pinch you can use a 1 1/8th Bi Metal Hole saw. this perfectly slips over the threads of the barrel and the teeth match the shoulder
Once the appropriate draw is found, we throw the action wrench on and tighten it down. i use a 2x4 cleaning patch to protect the finish on my receivers.
I Was able to torque the receiver down to 0.2° from the my zero. the specs i reference for this is +/- 0°30' (.5°)
Now that we are indexed correctly we can start reaming headspace. you might get lucky with a used barrel that will headspace without any reaming but if you're using a new barrel it most likely has a 0.010" Short chamber.
if you do use a used barrel and it closes on your no go gauge this isn't the end of the world as you can check it with a Field Rejection gauge, if it doesn't close on this you're good to go.
These next few photos will cover me taking the bolt apart with a bolt tool.
Having the reamer in the rifle.
Applying steady thumb pressure to cut the chamber
Chamber cuttings on the reamer.
Cutting a chamber can be fairly taunting, however its very easy. you do not need to pull on the handle side of the pull through reamer. once the bolt closes on the reamer your headspace is cut and you're ready to reference this with a go and no go gauge. make sure you clean your chamber thoroughly otherwise your gauges might give you a bad reading.
After all this the next step i take is doing a tilt test on the rifle. this involves installing the op rod on a rifle with only the bolt and gas cylinder on it. and tilting the rifle at a 60° and the op rod and bolt should move freely. once this is performed i install all stock components and re do this test to check for binding. after this is done. its finally assembly time.
A Few other things to check from here on out are the gas port size. Op Rod spring length 19.25"MIN and if you can, use a timing block to check for correct timing of the op rod catch.
Hope this helps or you at least found it interesting
r/M1Rifles • u/CalligrapherNo9579 • 5h ago
Maybe thinking about selling my M1, if you saw it what would you be willing to pay honestly.
r/M1Rifles • u/Fit-Apple240 • 1d ago
Up for your viewing pleasure is my July 2026 Buy It Now CMP M1 Garand from Gunbroker. This one is a Field Grade June of 1944 Winchester I snagged for $950. Took less than 2 weeks to arrive.
r/M1Rifles • u/mbaker0509 • 1d ago
Here's my Rockola Receiver and Barrel M1 Carbine I inherited from my Uncle along with all the accessories, 25 WWII Era marked mags, and 800 rounds of ammo.
r/M1Rifles • u/mattgm1995 • 1d ago
How do they look? How do they shoot? Is this the best way to get a 1903?
r/M1Rifles • u/the_irish_fkr_191145 • 1d ago
Repost here, trying to hedge my bets. I've had 2 different m1 carbines, a universal post 70's (yes.. yes it was terrible) and an auto ordinance reproduction. I've sold the rifles one due to how God awful it was and the other due to finances when I was going through the process of reenlisting, but I still have a Korean war era stock with the import stamps on it and I've got the itch to make it whole again. I debated buying a whole rifle but 1200 for a reproduction is insane, but it seems like no one has any receivers, barrels, trigger assemblies (you know the big things that you need to make the rifle function). Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
r/M1Rifles • u/zionz-92 • 1d ago
So does all SA GAW stocks have the four stamps on it ? The SA GAW, P , and the cross cannons on the side and underneath the pistol grip . I found this nice stock. It has three out of the four. I’m used to seeing. is this a real SA GAW stock?
r/M1Rifles • u/ryguy1997 • 1d ago
Put 2 coats of tung oil on my CMP expert m1 garand. Everything goes well together but for the life of me the trigger housing will not lock shut. Internet says to use a mallet but i dont want to wack it unless i have to. I know M1s especially new stocks can be tight. Any helpful advice?
r/M1Rifles • u/Gooble_Demon_Wolf • 2d ago
I did 3 coats of 50/50 mineral and tung oil. Now Im on the 7th coat of pure tung oil. Some parts of the stock have these matte patches. When it's dry and also when I wipe off the excess oil, the patches are visible. What are they?
r/M1Rifles • u/ChemicalWaltz6108 • 4d ago
Got lucky with this NPM reciever in great shape, great bore, and an Inland Barrel. Less than 800. But now anyone have a suggestion on where to get some USGI mags that will be legit? (I only got one small mag with it)
r/M1Rifles • u/jagr18 • 4d ago
Burning through some slow reloads- mix of 150 FMJs and hornady soft points over imr 4895 that average 2598 fps.
r/M1Rifles • u/Yomama_Bin_Thottin • 4d ago
r/M1Rifles • u/chils123 • 4d ago
I’ve always wanted an original condition M1 Carbine, but was kinda focused on Japanese rifles for the last few years. I decided to finally get one and picked this up via a WTB ad.
It looks to be a correct IBM made example with a pretty nice stock. All the small parts seem to be right for one of this general serial range. Barrel is quite a lighter, thinner finish, but I’ve read a few places that’s common for IBM examples.
Stock is the high wood type, and both the stock and handguard are JLB marked. Has a nice ordnance marking too. The pistol feel does have what looks like an RA-P arsenal rebuild mark, which is odd, but everything else on this looks right l, so I’m happy with it.
The carbine has a push safety, flip sight, blued flat bolt, and type 1 front band. I'm really new to collecting WWII US rifles, but I bought all the War Baby books and did some looking into other examples before I decided to grab this one.
Has a WWII era sling included too, which is nice.
Overall I’m quite happy with it!
r/M1Rifles • u/MadDog-80 • 5d ago
I posted my destroyed M1 Carbine crown a couple weeks ago that was causing the gun to shoot like 18” high at 50 yds. Last week I posted the repair. Well, I finally got it out to the range today and I’m happy to confirm the fix was good! She shoots right where she’s supposed to now. Yes, I know the group is shit but I had just shot 200 other rounds doing some accuracy testing on another rifle. (That will be posted tonight or tomorrow if you’re interested). This was just a quick fix confirmation group.
r/M1Rifles • u/SuperSuprise700 • 5d ago
r/M1Rifles • u/Ecstatic_Dust_5528 • 5d ago
r/M1Rifles • u/Intelligent-Stand-47 • 5d ago
Apologies if redundant post however this is my first one. I ordered an expert grade from the CMP and haven’t seen many posts about the standard wait time for the payment email as they ship quickly once paid from what I’ve gathered. I am aware of the forum existing on the CMP but I’m having issues viewing it like many others. Thank yall
r/M1Rifles • u/Thegerb50 • 6d ago
Just picked up this Winchester M1 Carbine. 1,16x,xxx s/n. I haven’t stripped it or cleaned it yet , but what should I look for on the internals. How did I do?
r/M1Rifles • u/Global_Bonus4067 • 6d ago
Completed a long-overdue refinishing on my 1945 Springfield this weekend. Shoots silky smooth, just like the new finish.
r/M1Rifles • u/FlyingYankee118 • 5d ago
Hi all can someone help me out with understanding what this W MHL Cartouche means? High wood stock for a Winchester M1 Carbine. Didn’t have too much luck on the internet. This is the only markings on the stock. Thanks!
r/M1Rifles • u/Idaho_Chrizzly_Bear • 6d ago
I got this Inland yesterday for a good price… it will probably end up being a flip since I already have two carbines including a very nice, cartouched and correct (minus handguard) Underwood in WW2 configuration.
226k serial and 02-43 barrel. (not 02-44 like in the title.. whoops.)
It’s a mixmaster and import marked but has an excellent bore and is clean. The stock is also a cartouched Marlin contract Underwood example (GHD UEF w/ ordnance wheel)
Am I stupid to sell so quick? I’m not hurting for the cash, just feeling a little irresponsibe.
r/M1Rifles • u/Gunenthusiast401 • 6d ago
After waiting weeks from my payment email, I finally got an email back. Not the one I was hoping for. According to CMP, they consider the enblock a “detachable magazine” which makes it considered an assault weapon. It’s very frustrating because the law states detachable magazines are allowed as long as it doesn’t have a telescopic stock, flash hider, barrel shroud, etc. but since CMP is interpreting the law that way, no M1 Garand for me. Funny enough every FFL in the state will sell me an M1A and any pistol variation of an AR/AK.
r/M1Rifles • u/pieconnisouire058 • 6d ago
So as the title says I have done a thing. I'm fascinated with sniper rifles and their history I have everything from a 1903A4 to a Yugo M48/52, even restoring a 91/30 mosin PU sniper. So when I was surfing the web and ran upon the prototypes done on the M1 carbine using the M3 mount or I house T3 modification I was hooked.
Now I dont wont to perminatly alter my M1 that was out of the question but was able to source an original mounting bracket with the hand guard with the cut out for it I was excited.
And as you can see history recreated. All parts are authentic and original but obviously its not an authentic prototype. No permanent modifications have been done and is 100% reversible. Currently it has my 1903A4 Lymen Alaskan on but have just bought a weaver 440 to replicate the m73 weaver 330 scope that was used for test; but with better magnification for practical shooting purposes.
I haven't shot her yet with the scope on, I want to confirm the ejection pattern and that the brass wont damage the scope like what happed with the prototype. Im proably going to have to add a brass deflector but do it in a way that looks good but still not permanently modifying the gun or the mount. What yall think a bubba, historical Bubba, or worthy of its historical inspiration.
r/M1Rifles • u/[deleted] • 6d ago
I understand that this is a rifle meant to be used in combat, and I think it would be impractical to expect a soldier to strip it every say 50 rounds, but I’m curious because I wanna keep this rifle running for a very long time. Mine is a 1943 Springfield, it appeared cleaned, and greased when I bought it, but I haven’t done much to it since.