Got this super nintendo to turn back on but this is what im seeing. Any idea what the issue is?

Hello! Finally rediscovered my 3DS after moving and was wondering if there is any way to replace this funky joystick they have. Apologies if this has been a resolved issue, would love some help on where to start!

Help, my SNES turns on (red light) when there's no cartridge, when there is one, the tv switches to black, displays "pal" and it's just a black screen, please help, I really want this one to work

This is a guide showing how to fix a none-responsive touchscreen for the Bandai Design Master Denshi handheld. It's pretty simple and you only need a Conductive Ink Pen for the job. The issue comes from a trace on the connector of the digitizer that breaks over time.

Here's a video I made about this fix that goes more in depth about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l36ZhTYQ3yo

If you like to see a teardown of this unit - visit here,

https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/1uzqlit/design_master_denshi_mangajuku_teardown_guide/

If you like to also see full images of the this system's PCB - visit here.

https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/1v481rz/design_master_denshi_mangajuku_teardown_part_2/

Cheers.

bought og xbox’s, ps4 and games and they’re all disgusting, to the point you need to wash your hands just after touching them. no clue what the dude did to these but i don’t want to potentially damage anything as i’ve never had to go to this extent because of how dirty these things are

will a lightly damp microfiber cloth be okay or is there something specific people like to use?

i am also going to be pulling these apart for a full clean and check up, this is just about the outside covers

So I've been debating if I want to attempt this. I've been working on my microsoldering skills and have successfully done several smaller surface mounted chips for other hobby projects. I did actually manage to get a broken port off an old ebay Xbox one x without lifting any of the pads, but still couldn't get video out after replacing it (all pins seemed secure, I think I either cooked the nearby encoder chip or it was already dead ). I just keep hearing about how the board is super difficult to heat up and work with as well as how easy it is to accidentally remove other nearby components (that capacitor or whatever right by the port pins is particularly intimidating). I have a budget yihua soldering and hot air rework stations, was gonna try using low melt solder to compensate for that when removing the existing port but not sure how far that would get me. I just wanted to see if any fellow budget hobbyists have managed to successfully do this or if you need more professional grade tools to get it done.

Last year I traded an old PC I had laying around for this Series X with a broken HDMI port and I finally got around to swapping it out. I know it’s not the prettiest but I’m looking for recommendations on projects to try next so I can improve my skills and any tips or tricks to improve the quality of my repairs. I used a Harbor Freight soldering station with a heat gun and a fan for the fumes. Ended up tearing three traces off but the repairs weren’t the worst.

Ignore the mess i cleaned it, does anybody know the value of the missing resistor? Th one on the left side of the circuit for context this is near the audio circuit

As the title says - I have a dsi with a broken cart reader (it looks like one of the pins is completely gone). There are no cheap dsi cart reader replacements available online, however, there are plenty of cheap original 3ds cart readers available. They also have 17 pins plus 2 on the side. Has anyone tried using a 3ds cart reader on a dsi and what was the outcome? Thanks

Just did a laser replacement but now the disc tray is not sliding in without the disc holder getting in the way. Do I need to remove the disc tray completely to stop the mechanism from blocking it?

Figured I just go ahead and desolder the cartridge connector off to also show the full back side of the Bandai Design Master's PCB because lord knows how long it'll still be for someone else to upload any inside images of this handheld online. Also yes, I can now confirm that you seriously need to 1st desolder the cartridge connector off in order to remove the plastic plate holding on to the PCB itself. Now, without any further ado... here's some of the 1st images ever uploaded of the Bandai Design Master's PCB (aka 電子 漫画 塾). Also to note, this blue version of the unit is the Rockman X3 - Buster Battle edition.

Also if interested, here's part 1 of this teardown that illustrates the full teardown of this handheld in order.

[Design Master Denshi Mangajuku] Teardown Part 1

https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/1uzqlit/design_master_denshi_mangajuku_teardown_guide/

If your Bandai handheld has picture showing on screen but the touchscreen itself is not responding, here's a guide I made on how to fix that.

https://old.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/1v48xbi/bandai_design_master_denshi_mangajuku_touchscreen/

Cheers.

Never thought that it was this hard to put back together a ps2 fat like DAMN

I recently found a PS5 that someone had thrown away, I thought maybe they just didn't want to go through the repair or diagnostic process, so I figured I'd give it a go. When I opened it up this is what I found. Looks like a power surge may have burnt the IC's. I was thinking of trying my hand at micro soldering considering it didn't cost me anything but I'm not even sure where to begin. Does anyone know what chips these are? Or where to source them? Maybe some documentation on the board? From what I've found it's an EDM-040 motherboard from a CFI-2015 PS5 Slim... I hope that helps with any identification, Thanks in advance.

Paid 40 bucks for this unit on marketplace looks like a failed hdmi replacement. There's flux covering nearly everything. Wish me luck!

I have a PS2 fat SCPH-50003 which has problems reading certain discs (some silver backed DVD games.)

I have three games which it can read but only after minutes of loading for just one short cutscene or level. It can read the rest of my games just fine. The games it has trouble reading seem to be random, they are single layer DVDs though my PS2 can read all my other single and double layer games completely normally so I really don't know what the issue is. (The games it struggles to read are clean, I even went so far as to get one of them resurfaced. I have a sacrificial sports game I use for testing which is very scratched and dirty that my PS2 can read perfectly so I'm really not sure what's going on)

So this leads me to believe my laser is dying and that it'd be worth it to replace it entirely as the one that's in the console right now is the original one it was manufactured with. Could I be wrong about this? Would it make more sense to get the laser adjusted instead or does it really sound like it's at the end of its life?

I don't repair consoles myself but I figured it would be best to ask here where people know what they're doing. I'm sending my console in to get a mod chip installed in a couple of weeks so I'd like to know what the correct course of action would be for my laser problem so that I can get that sorted while it's there.

If it does sound like it needs replacing, does anyone know any reputable sellers for this sort of thing? Also, what kind of laser would I need for an SCPH-50003?

Thanks in advance

Guys, my PS5 Slim Disc is just 1 year old, but it's showing an overheating warning. A local repair shop says the liquid metal needs to be replaced, but they'll have to open the console, which will break the seal. Should I get the liquid metal changed, or is there something else I should try first?

I got My classiq 2 on jul 20 it was working perfectly fine until 10 minutes later it had green lines on the screen I thought they would go away but no the lines got bigger and then it turned into a glitch my whole screen turned into the photo I cleaned my snes cartdrige and the snes with isopropyl 91% and I also changed the cords and I changed the USB block and cord and nothing worked and it is still glitched so someone please help with my problem I am desperate to play my snes games

I replaced the bowl and all the gears but stick still has backlash, especially strong on the left. Maybe that because this tiny thing on stick itself completely erased?

Please 🙏 help me to identify missing component at right side in red mark ... please 😔

A few years ago, I purchased a 3DS battery and it came with this whole broken 3DS. I have no idea what the history of this thing is. It also seems to have some brown sticky liquid spilled on the back. Moreover, the ribbon cable on the hinge is torn.

When the battery is inserted and the system is plugged in, the charging light does come on, but as is the case with decapitated 3DSes, it doesn't boot due to being severed.

➡️ I wanna look into restoring this. I'm not familiar with 3DS repair at all. I want to know how to approach this. I guess I'd like to know how to perform diagnosis of the device (determine the state of the screens, buttons, etc.) and determine what parts I need and how much it'll all cost, alongside anything else I should know.

I own an iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit (which is enough for a 3DS I think) and am mostly familiar with taking electronics apart, though I don't know soldering at all.

I have not been able to find a short circuit in continuity mode. I’m new.

I found a video that said I was supposed to get 3V coming out of the top pin of the circled component. I’m getting almost nothing coming out (this is while the power cable is plugged in). So this has an issue with voltage but I don’t know what to do next. Any ideas?

PS5 EDM-010

Hello everyone. I’m from Ukraine and I urgently need advice from anyone experienced with PS5 Pro board-level repair.

My PS5 Pro CFI-7000 suddenly shut down while running a relatively undemanding PS4 game. I stepped away for about 30 seconds and returned to a completely dead console.

Now it behaves as follows:

• Sometimes the first press of the power button does nothing.
• On the next attempt, it beeps and shows a blue light.
• The fan starts spinning.
• After 1–2 seconds, all power is cut.
• The blue light goes out and the fan stops immediately.
• It never reaches the white light.
• Safe Mode is impossible because it shuts down before the second beep.

The console has only around 250 hours of total use. Because of the war, power outages and the general situation in Ukraine, I had very little opportunity or mental energy to play. Unfortunately, the warranty has now expired.

The repair situation here is also extremely difficult. The main official PlayStation service centre serving Ukraine was destroyed during a missile strike, and there is currently no functioning official repair route available to me. Sony’s out-of-warranty option is an exchange for a refurbished console rather than a repair of my own unit. A replacement PS5 Pro is also currently far too expensive for me.

I have already:

• Removed the additional M.2 SSD.
• Removed the detachable Blu-ray drive.
• Disconnected all USB, HDMI, LAN and other accessories.
• Tested with only the power cable connected.
• Left the console unplugged for more than 24 hours.
• Held the power button for 60 seconds while unplugged.
• Allowed the console to cool completely.

Nothing changed. There was no burning smell, crackling, unusual noise, visible dust or previous overheating.

The console was connected through a high-quality voltage stabilizer and battery backup because power fluctuations are common here.

An experienced private technician is currently diagnosing the board. So far he has found:

• No visible damage.
• No obvious short circuits.
• Static voltage and resistance measurements appear normal.
• The PSU has not yet been conclusively ruled out under load.

The UART log contains:

• 80810001 — General Power Failure / Power Sequence Error.
• 80000009 — Unexpected Power Loss or Shutdown Failure.
• 80800022 — No/Bad Communication Between APU and RAM. This appears only occasionally.
• 80801002 — High-priority error not found in the Console Service Tool database. This repeats across many startup attempts.

One raw 80801002 entry is:

OK 00000000 80801002 00000001 FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 1EB1 1D1D:E4

Other attempts contain the same FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 sequence but different trailing values.

Some repair technicians have suggested that known GDDR6 bank faults normally use 808011xx codes, so the intermittent 80800022 may be secondary rather than the primary fault. Another possibility is the separate ninth 2 GB DDR5 chip found in the PS5 Pro, or its power/communication circuitry. However, this is only a theory.

Has anyone encountered 80801002 on a PS5 Pro? Does anyone know how to interpret the additional raw values? Could it be related to the extra DDR5 memory, Southbridge, power sequencing, clock/reset signals or another motherboard IC?

Would testing with a known-good PSU still be the first step, or should the technician focus on the motherboard’s memory and power rails during the two-second startup window?

I will attach the complete UART screenshots. Any serious board-level advice would mean a lot to me. This console has barely been used, and finding a repair path is currently my only realistic option.

So I attempted to connect one of the PS3 120 GB consoles that I own to an old SANYO CRT TV. I reset the console so it would adjust to the lower resolution and the console starts fine. However, it will not accept or eject any discs, i.e. dvd bluray or game discs and it has an icon stuck at the top of the TV screen like it still trying to read a disc. No unusual or odd noises. It tried to accept a disc at first, but it did not fully accept the disc, there was a small portion of the disc sticking out?

Any suggestions or ideas? This is my first attempt at repairing a video game console.

So far, I have only removed the outer shell of the console and examined the disc drive on it. There doesn't appear to be any obvious signs of damage to the components in my opinion. I also attempted to clean the lens with a q tip and IPA (it hasn't helped).