My faceplate had a crack in it so I used my soldering iron to heat weld it back together. Doesn't look too pretty, but makes a sick battle scar the old girl.

Hace poco adquirí una ps4 Slim. La consola inicia con normalidad pero al iniciar un juego está se llega a crashear y deja de dar imagen, pero queda el led de encendido en color blanco pero no responde hasta que se llega a desconectar de la corriente, se cambió de disco duro y volvió a dar el mismo problema así como también se utilizo varios cables HDMI y aún sigue dando el mismo problema. Podrían darme alguna opinión de cual podría ser el problema o si alguien también ha pasado por este suceso.

Got this super nintendo to turn back on but this is what im seeing. Any idea what the issue is?

Hi all I’m looking for some keen eyes or minds that could maybe help me with this issue, this is my first time trying to micro solder I was trying to replace the hdmi on a fully working Xbox one s, I was careful to localise the heat to not loosen any other components and tried to be careful when handling BUT clearly I went wrong because it now beeps on and then off indicating a short? All the pins are solid and I have inspected the board thoroughly and just can’t seem to find any missing components or cut traces so thought I would ask here! The board did sustain small damage from my x clamp tool that I perhaps pushed a little too hard but the traces still seem intact. Any help would be greatly appreciated and the pictures aren’t great but if you need to see something specific please ask!

(I also put a different hdmi port on just before this one I tested if it was working and it booted without picture when I inspected the pins were bridged and I couldn’t unbridge them so I went with a new one)

Last year I traded an old PC I had laying around for this Series X with a broken HDMI port and I finally got around to swapping it out. I know it’s not the prettiest but I’m looking for recommendations on projects to try next so I can improve my skills and any tips or tricks to improve the quality of my repairs. I used a Harbor Freight soldering station with a heat gun and a fan for the fumes. Ended up tearing three traces off but the repairs weren’t the worst.

This is my second Sega Wondermega HWM-5010, the 1991 Sega/JVC deck that packs a full Mega Drive and a Mega-CD into one unit with a motorised CD lid. It came to the bench with leaking capacitors and a CD tray that would only open if aided by hand, so it earned a full recap plus a clean and lube pass.

It is, honestly, a pig to take apart and put back together. All five internal boards got recapped:

- Mega Drive board: recapped, and I pulled the four Sharp voltage regulators to clean them and the surrounding area after some signs of leakage.

- Video board: brown phenolic with the RCA output jacks, recapped.

- Laser pickup PCB: recapped, plus a clean and lube of the sled and gears. This is the fiddly one, the JVC Optima-5 pickup is awkward to remove and its cap PCB has short flexes soldered straight to it.

- CD-ROM / servo board: recapped, pretty straightforward.

- Sound / control board: recapped last, also straightforward, a fair few caps to do though.

The optical pickup sled and gears got greased with Molykote DX paste, and a new CD drive belt went in. Every new cap got a blue dot so I could track progress, and the yellow bowl of pulled ELNA (and other) electrolytics tells the rest of the story.

Result: it powers up fine, both the Mega Drive and Mega-CD sides work, and with the new belt the motorised tray opens and closes on its own again. Tested Contra Hard Corps on the cart side (Mega Everdrive Pro) and Silpheed off a real Mega-CD disc.

The belt sorted mine, but has anyone here hit a Wondermega tray that would not self-open for a different reason, or is it nearly always the old belt and dried-up grease?

Would this work on my PS2 with a dongle. If so which dongle would I have to purchase?

I recently found a PS5 that someone had thrown away, I thought maybe they just didn't want to go through the repair or diagnostic process, so I figured I'd give it a go. When I opened it up this is what I found. Looks like a power surge may have burnt the IC's. I was thinking of trying my hand at micro soldering considering it didn't cost me anything but I'm not even sure where to begin. Does anyone know what chips these are? Or where to source them? Maybe some documentation on the board? From what I've found it's an EDM-040 motherboard from a CFI-2015 PS5 Slim... I hope that helps with any identification, Thanks in advance.

A few years ago, I purchased a 3DS battery and it came with this whole broken 3DS. I have no idea what the history of this thing is. It also seems to have some brown sticky liquid spilled on the back. Moreover, the ribbon cable on the hinge is torn.

When the battery is inserted and the system is plugged in, the charging light does come on, but as is the case with decapitated 3DSes, it doesn't boot due to being severed.

➡️ I wanna look into restoring this. I'm not familiar with 3DS repair at all. I want to know how to approach this. I guess I'd like to know how to perform diagnosis of the device (determine the state of the screens, buttons, etc.) and determine what parts I need and how much it'll all cost, alongside anything else I should know.

I own an iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit (which is enough for a 3DS I think) and am mostly familiar with taking electronics apart, though I don't know soldering at all.

Never thought that it was this hard to put back together a ps2 fat like DAMN

Paid 40 bucks for this unit on marketplace looks like a failed hdmi replacement. There's flux covering nearly everything. Wish me luck!

I’ve resoldered a whole new module, and it’s still giving me the middle finger of, quite literally, sticking up for itself. I’ve used both the new and original sensor for it, and neither seemed to have changed it. I’m really at a loss for what’s to try and I don’t know how much more money it’s worth trying to repair this thing. I’ve never had an Xbox One, so I’ve really no experience with repairing the controllers at all unlike the PS4, so I ask anyone here who’s much more familiar with repairing these guys to at least try and steer me (hehe) in the right direction.

Hey guys, I recently bought a PSP in an attempt to repair. It was sold as “no power” but seems to have a myriad of other issues. I’ll describe them and see if you guys can help!

I just reshelled it, and added a new screen and none of my issues changed. Lots of stuff was disconnected inside so someone clearly tried and failed to fix it before. There is no obvious damage that I could find to any internal components.

1. Power issue: No response from battery alone, but it will boot and run with the AC plugged in. I can removed the AC with the battery in and it will stay on.

2. Screen issue: Nothing on screen. I originally thought it was a bad screen so I replaced it, and nothing changed. I know the console is starting because I hear the boot up and can hear the directional clicking with D-Pad input. I got some life out of the screen yesterday when holding the power button up, the backlight seemed to turn on. But that was a one time thing, and I haven’t been able to replicate it

3. Disc Drive: No life from the disc drive whatsoever. It was internally disconnected when I bought it, I removed, cleaned, and reconnected it during the reshell, but still seems to be no signs of life. The disc arm IS present on the mobo but no idea if it functions.

Any help here? It’s hard to get anything to diagnose without the screen, so maybe that’s my first priority?

Hi all. I have a PS1 SCPH 9001 and it worked fine until one day i hit the reset button then it stopped reading disks, it just spins 2 times and then nothing. I already cleaned it etc, i even replaced the C705 0.47uf 50v capacitor, still nothing changed. Any ideas?

I have not been able to find a short circuit in continuity mode. I’m new.

I found a video that said I was supposed to get 3V coming out of the top pin of the circled component. I’m getting almost nothing coming out (this is while the power cable is plugged in). So this has an issue with voltage but I don’t know what to do next. Any ideas?

PS5 EDM-010

I recall these being scarce and hard to locate aftermarket options for, but I found a seller on eBay selling them. I bought some for two of my controllers. I can't speak to their quality yet, but I'm excited as I have 3 of these controllers and MAYBE two good sticks between them.

Edit: They're about $4 a pair depending on how many you buy and shipping for me was $6.63

Hello everyone. I’m from Ukraine and I urgently need advice from anyone experienced with PS5 Pro board-level repair.

My PS5 Pro CFI-7000 suddenly shut down while running a relatively undemanding PS4 game. I stepped away for about 30 seconds and returned to a completely dead console.

Now it behaves as follows:

• Sometimes the first press of the power button does nothing.
• On the next attempt, it beeps and shows a blue light.
• The fan starts spinning.
• After 1–2 seconds, all power is cut.
• The blue light goes out and the fan stops immediately.
• It never reaches the white light.
• Safe Mode is impossible because it shuts down before the second beep.

The console has only around 250 hours of total use. Because of the war, power outages and the general situation in Ukraine, I had very little opportunity or mental energy to play. Unfortunately, the warranty has now expired.

The repair situation here is also extremely difficult. The main official PlayStation service centre serving Ukraine was destroyed during a missile strike, and there is currently no functioning official repair route available to me. Sony’s out-of-warranty option is an exchange for a refurbished console rather than a repair of my own unit. A replacement PS5 Pro is also currently far too expensive for me.

I have already:

• Removed the additional M.2 SSD.
• Removed the detachable Blu-ray drive.
• Disconnected all USB, HDMI, LAN and other accessories.
• Tested with only the power cable connected.
• Left the console unplugged for more than 24 hours.
• Held the power button for 60 seconds while unplugged.
• Allowed the console to cool completely.

Nothing changed. There was no burning smell, crackling, unusual noise, visible dust or previous overheating.

The console was connected through a high-quality voltage stabilizer and battery backup because power fluctuations are common here.

An experienced private technician is currently diagnosing the board. So far he has found:

• No visible damage.
• No obvious short circuits.
• Static voltage and resistance measurements appear normal.
• The PSU has not yet been conclusively ruled out under load.

The UART log contains:

• 80810001 — General Power Failure / Power Sequence Error.
• 80000009 — Unexpected Power Loss or Shutdown Failure.
• 80800022 — No/Bad Communication Between APU and RAM. This appears only occasionally.
• 80801002 — High-priority error not found in the Console Service Tool database. This repeats across many startup attempts.

One raw 80801002 entry is:

OK 00000000 80801002 00000001 FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 1EB1 1D1D:E4

Other attempts contain the same FF100005 10000100 2013 0036 sequence but different trailing values.

Some repair technicians have suggested that known GDDR6 bank faults normally use 808011xx codes, so the intermittent 80800022 may be secondary rather than the primary fault. Another possibility is the separate ninth 2 GB DDR5 chip found in the PS5 Pro, or its power/communication circuitry. However, this is only a theory.

Has anyone encountered 80801002 on a PS5 Pro? Does anyone know how to interpret the additional raw values? Could it be related to the extra DDR5 memory, Southbridge, power sequencing, clock/reset signals or another motherboard IC?

Would testing with a known-good PSU still be the first step, or should the technician focus on the motherboard’s memory and power rails during the two-second startup window?

I will attach the complete UART screenshots. Any serious board-level advice would mean a lot to me. This console has barely been used, and finding a repair path is currently my only realistic option.

Just did a laser replacement but now the disc tray is not sliding in without the disc holder getting in the way. Do I need to remove the disc tray completely to stop the mechanism from blocking it?