Sorry if this isn't the correct place for this sort of question, but I keep having this problem and it is driving me up a wall.

I noticed this happening last year, but for whatever reason this year feels even worse. I can't run my sprinklers without having to detach them from the hose and spray this gunk off their filters every time I move them. So they will be perfectly clean and after an hour or two look like this again.

I now have a routine of detaching and spraying off their filters and letting the water run for a couple of minutes before reconnecting the head. It helps them go a little longer before getting bad but still needs detached and cleaned again after a couple hours.

Google is suggesting iron bacteria in our well water, which very well could be. However, all the photos I have seen of that issue looks much more like an orange slime coating the walls of the lines. This stuff in my sprinklers is always quite fibrous. Last year when I first noticed the issue, I thought it was earwigs coming up from the ground overnight and somehow clogging the head, but I no longer think that is the case.

Anyway, I sincerely hope that someone here can point me in the right direction at the very least!

Its such a small piece, so close to the end and right up against the edge of the box. Can I use an insert coupling or something similar on such a short piece or do I need to dig it up and cut it out to repair it? Really trying to avoid digging here is the main goal haha.

Broken/leaking brass saddle under dead tree. In almost certainly that's why the tree died. Had to find the pipe and tap it before it hit the roots

I am trying to reinstall my sprinkler meter as apparently it was installed backwards originally. I've been fighting the washers for a while now. How do I fit both washers in properly? Any tricks, or do I possibly need to get smaller washers?

Hi! So I have a new build and they just did hydroseeding last week. Im wondering should I get smart irrigation first? Or do the landscaping first? Or it doesnt matter? My concern if i did landscaping the new plants might die if i dont water them enough manually.

I'm trying to install a few new zones and repair/reconfigure others following an extensive yard renovation that changed my layouts and cut a bunch of existing lines.

In the attached diagram I'm trying to layout heads for a single zone of grass in the backyard. Goal is head-to-head coverage. Research has led me to the recommendations that I use Hunter MP Rotator heads and nozzles due to the somewhat narrow 12' widths of the horizontal and vertical legs of the lawn area. Previous install by local irrigation company was using rotors. Their install had way fewer heads, perhaps 6 covering this entire area. I'm not opposed to using rotors again but it seems like my coverage won't be as even.

This is the only grass in the backyard. I have other shrub zones that I'll need to run, but I wanted to get this grass area figured out before moving to the rest.

I did some measurements and I get about 100psi static pressure and flow rate is about 14gpm.

Also including the broader view of the yard in case that matters.

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/gallery/tAHqWCQ

I have a water leak from the irritation system we don’t use, I believe. It’s off but I’m thinking the valve is still on. We have a sprinkler system but have never actually used it and don’t want to. Is this my shut off value? I’m not sure honestly.

Sprung a leak at a cracked connection between the black flex line and the flex elbow. Can I unthread the black elbow from the pvc tee by hand and then rethread a new elbow with new flex line up to the sprinkler? Any advice on how to best secure/seal the new connections would be appreciated.

Ok, I work on a medium to large size tree farm. We have an above line gravity fed irrigation system with drip lines feeding off in rows to water each tree. The goal is to have each tree recieve 1 hour of water evenly.

For many years the fields have been watered by starting at the very end of the above line pipe, then closing a valve every hour going up to the resevoir.

This has historically worked with the way the fill box worked at our resevoir. Now we have a new butterfly valve exiting the fill box. With this new addition we have had many issues with pressure and drip lines popping off.

My solution, when I water, was to start at the closest valve (top to bottom) and then go down the pipeline every hour. This was to regulate pressure for the first section so that I didn't have to drive the 10 mins back and forth to the resevoir to adjust it ever hour depending on the section. This has worked for me with the exception that as I move down the pipeline im still watering the previous section.

The original method (bottom to top) currently has the issue of many Trees not getting watered because the pressure isnt high enough for the rows closest to the next valve, lines popping out because of pressure, and butterfly valves wearing down with every closure agaisnt the pressure.

Is there an obvious answer to this due to the way gravity fed irrigation systems work or are there case by case scenarios where one would work better than the other? Any help or just straight answers would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

Wondering if anyone can help me diagnose and fix an issue or if I need to call a professional. Sometime in the last 2 weeks Zone 1 of 3 has started to turn itself off after 3-5 seconds of running. I don't see any events or alerts about any issues on the Hydrawise app, I tried completing the zone tester and it goes up to 499A but the sprinklers never activate.

Any help would be really appreciated

Testing sprinkler system on a house I bought, everything looks fine except this weathermatic valve. The control box is burnt out so I had to turn them on manually.

This weathermatic does not work with a quarter turn on the solenoid. It has a switch to turn the water on by the solenoid, and then sprinklers popped up and all looks fine. Is this how these weathermatics work or if the quarter turn isn't working there is something wrong with the solenoid?

I have a creek fed pond that I am slowly restoring. The creek that feeds it has been diverted through some pipe that has been buried. I am looking to replace it and elevate it since it is coming from a higher slope point and then having it waterfall or waterwheel into the pond. Is there a way to strap 4 inch pvc dws pipe to a tree that doesn't harm the tree. I'm thinking something along the lines of this, but it probably doesn't need to be as robust and heavy duty. https://www.treehousesupplies.com/collections/tab/products/tab-powder-coated

Thanks for the help.

Hey guys,

Apologies if this post doesn't belong here, but I figured it's similar to most soil/ground level irrigation.

My landscape guy dimwits can't be trusted with a dish scrubber, let alone a weed whacker.

One of them ran over this cap that screws on to a regular hose on a misting system that I desperately need when working just outside my garage in the heat.

Any tips on a repair kit line coupler/leader hose with hose screw cap?

Thanks for any advice.