Our house has a 3/4" PRV set to 65psi and the 3/4" irrigation line is connected after the PRV. When a zone turns on, the house water pressure drops significantly to ~40psi. I've measured the static and flowing pressure using a gauge in the basement piping and also measured at an external spigot. There are 6 RVAN 17'-24' heads on each of the zones, and I should be using around 6GPM which I've verified by watching the house water meter, so I don't think there is a big leak somewhere that's causing the issue.

The problem is that the heads don't pop fully up and the spray radius is only 17', and I need at least 20' to get even coverage. My guess is that the sprinklers are getting around 25psi after the pressure drops caused by the backflow preventer, piping etc.

Things I've checked:

PRV is a Watts LF25AUB-Z3. I've pulled it apart and checked the screen for debris, but didn't find anything. Also pulled apart the valve and spring but everything looked normal

I have one zone that is only 2 heads, and the pressure drops a lot less on that zone - maybe 2-5psi

If I hold one of the full circle RVAN heads closed while the zone is running, the water pressure measured in the house goes up by ~8psi

If I increase the PRV setting, the static pressure will go up to at least 80psi. I haven't tried to set it higher

If it matters, all the sprinkler bodies are 1800 PRS SAMs, 1" poly pipe used for the underground lines

Sprinkler system was DIY'd by my dad about 10 years ago and has had minimal upkeep since then

Can someone help explain why/where I'm losing pressure and how to fix it? Thanks in advance!

I have a creek fed pond that I am slowly restoring. The creek that feeds it has been diverted through some pipe that has been buried. I am looking to replace it and elevate it since it is coming from a higher slope point and then having it waterfall or waterwheel into the pond. Is there a way to strap 4 inch pvc dws pipe to a tree that doesn't harm the tree. I'm thinking something along the lines of this, but it probably doesn't need to be as robust and heavy duty. https://www.treehousesupplies.com/collections/tab/products/tab-powder-coated

Thanks for the help.

I am trying to reinstall my sprinkler meter as apparently it was installed backwards originally. I've been fighting the washers for a while now. How do I fit both washers in properly? Any tricks, or do I possibly need to get smaller washers?

Ok, I work on a medium to large size tree farm. We have an above line gravity fed irrigation system with drip lines feeding off in rows to water each tree. The goal is to have each tree recieve 1 hour of water evenly.

For many years the fields have been watered by starting at the very end of the above line pipe, then closing a valve every hour going up to the resevoir.

This has historically worked with the way the fill box worked at our resevoir. Now we have a new butterfly valve exiting the fill box. With this new addition we have had many issues with pressure and drip lines popping off.

My solution, when I water, was to start at the closest valve (top to bottom) and then go down the pipeline every hour. This was to regulate pressure for the first section so that I didn't have to drive the 10 mins back and forth to the resevoir to adjust it ever hour depending on the section. This has worked for me with the exception that as I move down the pipeline im still watering the previous section.

The original method (bottom to top) currently has the issue of many Trees not getting watered because the pressure isnt high enough for the rows closest to the next valve, lines popping out because of pressure, and butterfly valves wearing down with every closure agaisnt the pressure.

Is there an obvious answer to this due to the way gravity fed irrigation systems work or are there case by case scenarios where one would work better than the other? Any help or just straight answers would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys,

Apologies if this post doesn't belong here, but I figured it's similar to most soil/ground level irrigation.

My landscape guy dimwits can't be trusted with a dish scrubber, let alone a weed whacker.

One of them ran over this cap that screws on to a regular hose on a misting system that I desperately need when working just outside my garage in the heat.

Any tips on a repair kit line coupler/leader hose with hose screw cap?

Thanks for any advice.

Sorry if this isn't the correct place for this sort of question, but I keep having this problem and it is driving me up a wall.

I noticed this happening last year, but for whatever reason this year feels even worse. I can't run my sprinklers without having to detach them from the hose and spray this gunk off their filters every time I move them. So they will be perfectly clean and after an hour or two look like this again.

I now have a routine of detaching and spraying off their filters and letting the water run for a couple of minutes before reconnecting the head. It helps them go a little longer before getting bad but still needs detached and cleaned again after a couple hours.

Google is suggesting iron bacteria in our well water, which very well could be. However, all the photos I have seen of that issue looks much more like an orange slime coating the walls of the lines. This stuff in my sprinklers is always quite fibrous. Last year when I first noticed the issue, I thought it was earwigs coming up from the ground overnight and somehow clogging the head, but I no longer think that is the case.

Anyway, I sincerely hope that someone here can point me in the right direction at the very least!

Its such a small piece, so close to the end and right up against the edge of the box. Can I use an insert coupling or something similar on such a short piece or do I need to dig it up and cut it out to repair it? Really trying to avoid digging here is the main goal haha.

Hi! So I have a new build and they just did hydroseeding last week. Im wondering should I get smart irrigation first? Or do the landscaping first? Or it doesnt matter? My concern if i did landscaping the new plants might die if i dont water them enough manually.

Broken/leaking brass saddle under dead tree. In almost certainly that's why the tree died. Had to find the pipe and tap it before it hit the roots