For context, this is a 2019 Subara Crosstrek with a 4-cylinder engine and 68k miles. I have performed oil changes, brake replacement, and strut changes myself in the past on other vehicles.

Hi everyone. I recently went to Valvoline to get my oil and oil filter changed, but they shot this video to explain why they couldn’t do it. I’m trying to understand what I should do now. The guys there said the oil already needs to be changed, and I’m actually planning to sell the car, but I don’t want to sell it with this problem. So please tell me what’s the best way to handle this. Maybe there’s something I can do myself, or should I go to someone else, or maybe they missed something—I’m not sure.

Thanks in advance!

Wanted to get a magnetic sump plug (tuned car -VW Golf Mk7 1.4) but not been able to get one it time for when I want to do oil change (also doesn't appear to be any available in my country). Had some small magnets lying around, any reason not to just do this? Force is pretty strong at tip as shown in first pic.

This is for a 2023 Chevy Trailblazer. Does this electronic component indicate that the car should be in service mode to compress this caliper piston? This is the front brakes.

Just had an inspection done on my 03 Galant ES, 2.4L. The ball joints are making a popping noise and I’m worried they might just fail. This is the quote I got for everything at Les Schwab. I’m super poor, poor enough to try to do some of this work myself. I don’t have fancy tools but I have friends who will let me borrow some from them. Help!

Edit: While I’m definitely no mechanic, I’ve fixed everything myself on this car so far, which includes replacing brakes/rotors, replacing spark plugs/wiring/coils, all oil changes and replacing the window regulator/motor.

I hear y’all about buying the parts myself, getting second opinions and quotes, contacting a mobile mechanic and my nails lol. Thank you all for your help 🗣️💋

207 1.6hdi

Once a year i need to add freon/refrigerant into the system because it is leaking and mechanics cant find where… also i can hear the fan almost all the time at max speed when ac is on.

Can this AC radiator which is clearly damaged be the reason for that 2 things?

This is my dad's 1998 ( I think ) Honda Civic, 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. He's planning on throwing a new/used engine into it rather than dealing with it, figured I'd ask if there was any quirky ideas on extracting that bolt or at least commiserate together.

I have 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 SE. AC is not cooling. Compressor was replaced less than a year ago. As you hear this the noice it makes when I turn on the AC.

Edit: belt is ribbed on both sides. So it’s not upside down. I also got a full leak test. No leaks. Freon is all good too.

I’m so fucking depressed being a mechanic. I’m 23 years old. I never even explicitly wanted to be a mechanic but I’d rather a trade than nothing. I’m from the NE UK and I’m wondering what other mechanics have done to leave the trade?

Currently a diag/senior. I have my level 3 EV, FGAS etc etc. What industry can I look at to leave? I’ve searched and searched but what have people found luck with that can be transferred with a decent wage?

Sorry to rant but I’m sick of hitting a brick wall of just floating through until I find somewhere

2019 Mazda CX-5 4 Cylinder

Currently have on fully coated centric rotors I bought on rockauto that have rusted rotor hats in 5 years in the Northeast

Looking to replace them soon. What brand has fully coated rotors with good protection?

What is this?
2018 Honda accord 2.0t. :(

Is this bolt corroded/broken or is it some kind of security bolt or am I an idiot?

Took a few photos.

I bought a French home and it came with an old trailer. The trailer itself is in good overall condition but one of the shock absorbers is bad. I cannot for the life of me find the right shock absorber anywhere, US or Europe. The ones I find online either have 2 eyelets, or the one eyelet is too small to fit.

I can’t read all the numbers on the piece, and the trailer itself has no identification either. I know older trailers in Europe often used car parts. Guessing make might be Fiat? Seat? Best guess on year for the trailer is late 90, early 2000. Model I’m not sure since I can’t read the numbers. (No engine, obviously, it’s a trailer - silly AI)

Anyway, can anyone point me in the right direction? When fully extended it’s almost 300mm. The pin for the eyelet to go through looks to be 15 mm. I ordered a Monroe set but the eyelet was 10mm.

Help please. Thanks!

This is reading for each cylinders fuel values and i got idle issue. I had it cleaned my injectors 2 times but no luck on solving the problem.

Ford fiesta 1.5 tdci (duratorq) 2013

Hello! I recently bought a 2015 Scion FRS (2.0-liter naturally aspirated flat-four) and went to the parking lot and did circles to see when the car would start sliding. Never hit a slide however. I am learning how to control the car.

After the matter, for about a week, 30% of the time I turn the car on it just dies. Sometimes the ignition will come on, with half crank, but with a full crank to start it dies and it doesn’t start.

The only fix I found was wiggling the positive clamp on the battery and wiggling the whole battery. Then the car starts fine. The car has not died mid drive.

My guess is that the existing battery (that’s apparently a Walmart battery) is super corroded as seen on the pics.

Please let me know if y’all had similar stuff and I should do, thank you a lot!

2015 Toyota Tacoma. Has been running fine no smoke but the oil runs up the dipstick a long way. Its been 500 miles on this oil and nothing has leaked or sounded off.

Hi everyone,

I'm a bit desperate and would really appreciate any advice. I'm a girl and I really need this car for work. My car is a Seat Arosa 1.0 (AUC engine), which is basically the same as a VW Lupo 1.0 and very similar to the Polo 6N.

Whenever I turn the key to the ON position (before cranking), there has always been a very distinctive buzzing/humming noise from the front of the car. It's fairly loud and lasts about 2-3 seconds. It has done this every single time since I've owned the car and it was normal for me.

Last Monday the check engine light came on. However, the car drove perfectly normally all week (Monday to Saturday). On Saturday I parked it in my garage.

Then on Monday, when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. The strange thing is that the first time I turned the key, that familiar buzzing noise sounded much louder, deeper and rougher than usual. After that, the engine never started.

Since then, every time I try again, that buzzing noise has completely disappeared. I can still hear the relay clicking, but that original 2-3 second buzzing is gone.

So far I've checked:

- All fuses are OK.

- I removed the fuel pump cover and recorded a video. The fuel pump does make a small humming noise when I turn the key, so it seems to be getting power.

- I checked the timing belt just in case, but it was replaced about 6 months ago and looks fine.

My brothers think the fuel pump is failing, but I'm not convinced because I can still hear it running. The problem is that the sound I'm missing is different from the fuel pump's small hum. The missing sound was much louder and seemed to come from the front of the engine bay.

The stored DTCs are:

- P0135

- P0171

From what I've been told, neither of these codes should suddenly prevent the engine from starting, especially since it drove perfectly for almost a week after the check engine light came on.

I'm trying to diagnose this without spending a lot of money replacing random parts.

I'm attaching several videos so you can hear the sounds I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what that 2-3 second buzzing noise could have been? Is there anything else I can test at home with basic tools before buying parts? While searching through forums, I found someone with a very similar problem and in their case the car would start again simply by adding more fuel because the fuel level was too low. I haven't tried that yet, but I'm also very low on fuel although I've been there other times without issues, it can be seen in the videos.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Hi everyone,
My Peugeot 308 SW II (LC_, LJ_, LR_, LX_, L4_) 1.2 THP 130
only goes into limp mode after taking corners a bit faster. Immediately after the corner, an "Engine Fault" message appears; the engine stutters and has hardly any power.
If I turn the engine off and restart it, the car runs perfectly normally again right away, and the message is gone.
The tank is full; I’m still checking the oil level. The problem occurs consistently after taking sharper corners.
Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what the cause might be? A loose connection, the fuel supply, or something else?

I have a 09 honda accord and i wanna fix it up before I decide to sell it but there's a bunch of lights on the dash because of the abs module how should I go about fixing this

When I turn left at decent speed, water flows out from near my blower heater and on to the passenger side floor.

I’ve changed the blower heater and blower heater resistor about 4-5 months ago and that just was a band-aid so I could keep using the car in the winter months.

Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I’ve heard it could be a cracked heater core but this is over my head. Coolant isn’t leaking and the liquid has no color or odor

car does this. doesnt look good. taking to a garage first thing in morning. Sometimes sounds like I have gone over a pothole or bump just on that tyre on a flat road