To preface, I have a '12 Accord with 205k on it. Runs perfect. Just started noticing these goldish/ yellow pieces of metal in the pan. Not very many. Any ideas in what I might be dealing with?

I went to three different part stores and each told three different stories regarding the spark plugs. Now i am confused 😭.

This is for a 2015 Chevrolet Malibu LT L4 engine

i’m replacing the fuel pump in my 2012 Ford Escape

at least, i’m trying to. before i can replace it, i need to unscrew this lock ring that secures the existing fuel pump in place.

but it’s so damn rusted and won’t budge at all

i’m using a screwdriver and hammering it counterclockwise, and it won’t budge at all. i’ve applied PB blaster to the entire ring and let it sit overnight, and still nothing.

i’ve just scurbbed the notches that fit into the ring with a wire brush to loosen them, applied more penetrating oil, and hammered some more, all to no avail.

what the hell, guys?? have any other new englanders had this problem? every one else online has seemingly got it off by now.

So I’m engine swapping on my 2000 ford mustang V6. I have to transfer the old headers to the new engine. One of the header flanges was rusted off when I took them off. A shop quoted me $120 to weld it back on, but I found these cheap Chinese headers for $70. Is it worth going cheap on this or should I get the welds done?

Need some advice on setups. Been rocking this for roughly 6 months and starting to feel a bit crowded. I appreciate the help

I've been trying to remove this nut that screws the hardline into the soft line so i can upgrade the soft line, but it's stripped and rusted. I've tried pb blaster and unholy amounts of wd40, but even with a vice grip I can't get it to budge. Any advice?
'97 BMW 323ti

Hi everyone. I recently went to Valvoline to get my oil and oil filter changed, but they shot this video to explain why they couldn’t do it. I’m trying to understand what I should do now. The guys there said the oil already needs to be changed, and I’m actually planning to sell the car, but I don’t want to sell it with this problem. So please tell me what’s the best way to handle this. Maybe there’s something I can do myself, or should I go to someone else, or maybe they missed something—I’m not sure.

Thanks in advance!

2018 Honda odyssey.

There’s this ‘roller coaster’ sound coming from the wheels. Happens when driving straight and sometimes turning. Video taken with wheel lifted, and spinning it manually. Is this a failing cv axle?

I changed the fuel filter, its getting fuel trough the lines and the return works, the hand pump is hard, i need help what would it be and if any of you guys had a similar problem

Question, I’m doing the glow plugs and Passenger side very last glow plug cylinder 7 I believe I can’t the glow plug to go all the way in so I can start ratcheting on it. I’ve got the area soaking in PB blaster right now but I can’t it very deep at all. I’ve tried different angles and all and I even tried spraying out dirt and debris or whatever with compressed air but nothing. The truck has sat since Covid and has 500,000k miles on it but all the other plugs slide in and out. 🤷🫤 thanks for the help!

1994 ford f-250 7.3 IDI factory turbo

Hi, I'm looking for some basic assistance. My 15 year old daughter will eventually be inheriting my 2015 Altima. I'm working on some projects with her on it so she has a real basic understanding of cars/general maintenance and won't be intimidated. Spark plugs, new car stereo w/wireless Carplay, front struts, coolant, CVT drain and fill, cabin/air filters and jack safety have been past projects. With 110k miles, the power steering fluid (E-PSF) hasn't been changed. Unlike my old Volvo 240DL where I could turkey baster it, this has a permanent filter screen where the baster isn't possible.

My question is, when the car is cold, can we simply just remove the return hose (circled in red?), drain whatever comes out, fill, drive it for a bit, and then repeat the process again? Thank you.

Modern Seat SUV. Is there a "max" coolant level to respect? If so, where is it?

It’s been having this squeaking for a while but in the past couple weeks it sounds worse. Did an oil change but nothing. One of the belts? 200k miles

2021 Mustang EcoBoost, around 81k miles.

Lately, when I’m braking or just coming to a stop, the RPM will sometimes drop from around 800 to 600, the car shakes and makes a grinding/buzzing noise, then the RPM goes back up.

It’s intermittent, happens more once the engine is warm, and seems worse with the A/C on.

Today, while driving, the car suddenly lost power and displayed a message telling me to shift into Neutral to restart.

It restarted immediately and drove normally afterward. No check-engine light is on.
Spark plugs and the purge valve were recently replaced. Has anyone experienced something similar or know what I should have checked first?

My shifter seems to be sticking only when the truck is on. I checked the clutch fluid reservoir today and it was completely empty. Filled it but same thing. What could it be? Brakes are locking up too. Are the two lines on the same cylinder and it’s leaking or freezing?

Hey people, my front right wheel appears to sit further back in the wheel arch than the left? The car also pulls to the left, however the wish bone / control arm does not appear to be bent to me?

What could this be caused by? I am planning to get my shock absorbers replaced, however i don’t believe that would be what’s causing this?

Advice on powersteering issues and pully system

For context, this is a 2019 Subara Crosstrek with a 4-cylinder engine and 68k miles. I have performed oil changes, brake replacement, and strut changes myself in the past on other vehicles.

2007 accord 4 cylinder. Been driving this car for about 2.5 years and noticed clunking sounds for the last few months. Told it was a rusted out subframe and not worth fixing it. The clunking is still there I’m just wondering if it’s safe to drive on? The car drive great otherwise and would hate to see it go/can’t afford another vehicle atm. TIA

Two of these little metal balls fell out when I was reassembling my carburetor, where do I put them back? What do they go to?

2000 Suzuki drz400

Had a 93 burning oil. Got snogged and it bearly passed. I think a couple more points and it would have failed and was told it wouldn't pass again.

I got a new engine and kept up with the maintenance. Lots of high way driving. A year and half later I have to smog again, no check engine light still which is surprising. Wondering if cataclean will help as a preventative maintenance or if I should use it before I smog it in hopes it will pass.