Wanted to get a magnetic sump plug (tuned car -VW Golf Mk7 1.4) but not been able to get one it time for when I want to do oil change (also doesn't appear to be any available in my country). Had some small magnets lying around, any reason not to just do this? Force is pretty strong at tip as shown in first pic.

For context, this is a 2019 Subara Crosstrek with a 4-cylinder engine and 68k miles. I have performed oil changes, brake replacement, and strut changes myself in the past on other vehicles.

Hi everyone. I recently went to Valvoline to get my oil and oil filter changed, but they shot this video to explain why they couldn’t do it. I’m trying to understand what I should do now. The guys there said the oil already needs to be changed, and I’m actually planning to sell the car, but I don’t want to sell it with this problem. So please tell me what’s the best way to handle this. Maybe there’s something I can do myself, or should I go to someone else, or maybe they missed something—I’m not sure.

Thanks in advance!

I went to three different part stores and each told three different stories regarding the spark plugs. Now i am confused 😭.

This is for a 2015 Chevrolet Malibu LT L4 engine

This is my dad's 1998 ( I think ) Honda Civic, 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. He's planning on throwing a new/used engine into it rather than dealing with it, figured I'd ask if there was any quirky ideas on extracting that bolt or at least commiserate together.

I’m so fucking depressed being a mechanic. I’m 23 years old. I never even explicitly wanted to be a mechanic but I’d rather a trade than nothing. I’m from the NE UK and I’m wondering what other mechanics have done to leave the trade?

Currently a diag/senior. I have my level 3 EV, FGAS etc etc. What industry can I look at to leave? I’ve searched and searched but what have people found luck with that can be transferred with a decent wage?

Sorry to rant but I’m sick of hitting a brick wall of just floating through until I find somewhere

I have a 2020 Chevy Express with about 200k miles.

Recently the AC has been acting strange.

While driving down the road the AC is ice cold.

But once I stop somewhere and I'm idling I can hear the AC clutch kicking on and off and the temperature that blows out of the vents is just like ambient Air temperature and kind of muggy.

I took it to a shop to get the AC recharged and according to the shop they said that all the levels were good.

I was curious and I found an old A/C Pro DIY gauge.

I plugged it in to check to see what it reads while the compressor cycling on and off.

But it's pretty much pegged out at the max whenever I read the gauge.

I will try to attach a video. In the video you can hear the compressor clicking on and off when the gauge goes up and down.

Any suggestions on what I should look at next or have another shop try to recharge it?

207 1.6hdi

Once a year i need to add freon/refrigerant into the system because it is leaking and mechanics cant find where… also i can hear the fan almost all the time at max speed when ac is on.

Can this AC radiator which is clearly damaged be the reason for that 2 things?

This is for a 2023 Chevy Trailblazer. Does this electronic component indicate that the car should be in service mode to compress this caliper piston? This is the front brakes.

Update!!: So for whatever reason, I would do the steps to put into Service Mode but it wouldn’t stay in service mode.

So I just took the electric device and use the Allen wrench to be able to compress it with the compression kit and it worked smoothly!

Extra steps for no damn reason but it works.

Why would my engine be discolored like this?

2007 Honda crv i-vtec 2.4 dohc

I am mechanically illiterate so I apologize in advance but I’m trying to learn. Looking at the dip stick do I need to add oil?

I have an 07 Tacoma that wouldn’t start this morning, I’ll attempt to jump it on my partners car when I get home from work. I’m assuming the battery is dead since it clicked once when I attempted to start it?

I’ve also seen that you can get your alternator tested and have your battery charged at auto zone for free, but that sounded too good to be true. Is this real?

2019 mazda cx5 cant figure out what's making this happen

Is there something I can do other than using brute force? Tried squeezing it on with pliers to no avail

What is this?
2018 Honda accord 2.0t. :(

Is this bolt corroded/broken or is it some kind of security bolt or am I an idiot?

2020 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid LE - 2.5 L 4-cylinder

When driving on the highway, and going over 65 mph, AWD system malfunction pops up.

Does anyone know the cause of this?

This is my 1992 Honda Civic 1.6L Boosted on “supposedly” 10 pounds

s300v1
skunk2 cam
skunk2 intake
forged pistons
forged rods
etc etc.

Mostly everything is aftermarket with a rebuilt block
I have connected it to smanager and it does connect properly, but turning the car on(engine on), nothing in smanager moves in sensors. no tach on the dashboard showing (video showing its not working while driving, nor is the mph guage) seems like its just stuck in limp mode because we cant barely get past 10-20mph, and afr is overly solid and where i need it to be shown aswell, if anyone has any opinions or wants to see pictures just let me know

edit: this started to happen after replacing the oem fuel rail with a jackspania one

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I bought a used 2013 Ford Escape earlier this year. Decided to fiddle around under my hood and noticed this on one of my battery terminals. Not sure if its corrosion or something else.

The battery date sticker is hard to see, so I wasn't able to take a picture of it, but it reads 3/19.

Potentially thinking about replacing the battery soon, especially before winter. Seems doable as a DIY, but I have never worked on a car before and the battery isn't as accessible as I would like it to be in my ford Explorer. How much might a shop charge me to have a new battery installed and is it worth considering doing it myself?

Tested the resting voltage with a multimeter and got around 12.2. However, I don't drive much, at most a few short drives per week, so I assume that plays a lot into the low battery charge.

New rotors and pads, bedded in by doing 10x 50kmh to 10kmh medium pressure stops.

DBA slotted rotors still have some overspray not rubbed off by pads yet? Front rotors look like they have that factory grease and some marks even though they’re TRW and said no cleaning before install.

Do I bed in again at higher speed/harder brake or just drive normally and wait?

Cheers!

5.3L V8

Working this problem as a novice. Major engine shaking occurred. I read codes at autozone. Canbus Off and Bus A off. Cylinder 7 misfire. I had it towed to my usual mechanic. No compression in Cylinder 7. His best guess is the lifters or valve which I understand is usual for this engine.

What would be the advice for this? My mechanic suggested this is probably a 8,000-10,000 dollar problem at a shop or dealership to fix. I have looked at what it would cost to have another engine delivered. Would it be cheaper to look for someone who knows how to look at valves and lifters or to go for an engine swap?

Truck is a pain in my butt.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for feedback on recent repairs suggested by a local Hyundai dealership. We are planning to get a second opinion from an independent mechanic, but I’d appreciate any feedback before moving forward.

Vehicle information:

• 2014 Hyundai Accent (automatic)
• 115,000 miles
• No major repairs or ongoing issues previously
• Recently stolen and recovered
• Brought to Hyundai afterward for a post-theft inspection
• Washington, DC suburbs

Current symptoms:

• Randomly had trouble starting 2x
• Vehicle stalled twice in the past few weeks (this happened both before and after the theft)
• No DTCs or lights on dashboard

The dealership recommended the following repairs:

• Crankshaft position sensor — $487
• Catalytic converter replacement (DTC P0420) — $2,462
• Muffler gasket replacement (leaking) — $213
• Spark plug replacement — $447
• Fuel induction service — $290
• Replace both front lower control arms — $1,700

When I spoke with the service advisor, she said these repairs were related to the starting/stalling issues. I asked them to provide a video showing the issues they found, along with any testing/diagnostic data to support the recommendations. I’m still waiting for that information.

Here are my follow-up questions for them:

• Where exactly is the leak on the muffler gasket, and could this leak affect other diagnoses?
• What tests show that the catalytic converter has failed? How did they rule out other factors? (ie. O2 sensors)
• Since the starting/stalling issue could be crankshaft or spark plug-related, how do they determine that both need to be replaced?
• Do these repairs need to happen at the same time, or should some issues be addressed first and then re-tested?

My questions for the fine mechanics of reddit:

1. Do these recommendations sound reasonable based on the symptoms and mileage?
2. Does the catalytic converter recommendation make sense with the information provided?
3. Are there any additional questions or tests you would request before approving these repairs?

Thank you!