For context, this is a 2019 Subara Crosstrek with a 4-cylinder engine and 68k miles. I have performed oil changes, brake replacement, and strut changes myself in the past on other vehicles.

Wanted to get a magnetic sump plug (tuned car -VW Golf Mk7 1.4) but not been able to get one it time for when I want to do oil change (also doesn't appear to be any available in my country). Had some small magnets lying around, any reason not to just do this? Force is pretty strong at tip as shown in first pic.

Just had an inspection done on my 03 Galant ES, 2.4L. The ball joints are making a popping noise and I’m worried they might just fail. This is the quote I got for everything at Les Schwab. I’m super poor, poor enough to try to do some of this work myself. I don’t have fancy tools but I have friends who will let me borrow some from them. Help!

Edit: While I’m definitely no mechanic, I’ve fixed everything myself on this car so far, which includes replacing brakes/rotors, replacing spark plugs/wiring/coils, all oil changes and replacing the window regulator/motor.

I hear y’all about buying the parts myself, getting second opinions and quotes, contacting a mobile mechanic and my nails lol. Thank you all for your help 🗣️💋

207 1.6hdi

Once a year i need to add freon/refrigerant into the system because it is leaking and mechanics cant find where… also i can hear the fan almost all the time at max speed when ac is on.

Can this AC radiator which is clearly damaged be the reason for that 2 things?

This is my dad's 1998 ( I think ) Honda Civic, 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. He's planning on throwing a new/used engine into it rather than dealing with it, figured I'd ask if there was any quirky ideas on extracting that bolt or at least commiserate together.

I have 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 SE. AC is not cooling. Compressor was replaced less than a year ago. As you hear this the noice it makes when I turn on the AC.

Edit: belt is ribbed on both sides. So it’s not upside down. I also got a full leak test. No leaks. Freon is all good too.

I’m so fucking depressed being a mechanic. I’m 23 years old. I never even explicitly wanted to be a mechanic but I’d rather a trade than nothing. I’m from the NE UK and I’m wondering what other mechanics have done to leave the trade?

Currently a diag/senior. I have my level 3 EV, FGAS etc etc. What industry can I look at to leave? I’ve searched and searched but what have people found luck with that can be transferred with a decent wage?

Sorry to rant but I’m sick of hitting a brick wall of just floating through until I find somewhere

Is this bolt corroded/broken or is it some kind of security bolt or am I an idiot?

This is reading for each cylinders fuel values and i got idle issue. I had it cleaned my injectors 2 times but no luck on solving the problem.

Ford fiesta 1.5 tdci (duratorq) 2013

Not to fs how much longer she can go I was told to just get a new car need some advice should I keep driving her or what
2017 Hyundai Elantra

2015 Toyota Tacoma. Has been running fine no smoke but the oil runs up the dipstick a long way. Its been 500 miles on this oil and nothing has leaked or sounded off.

Hey yall. 22 Honda Insight here.
My dad replaced my front brakes for me recently. He’s been a mechanic for 40 years so I am surprised to see there was an issue.

Midas is saying improper installation calling for a total replacement which sounds… ridiculous? Midas also suggested not to drive much on these brakes until they are replaced, even tho they are new!

And I’ve driven 6/7k miles on them since they were installed 2 months ago. No I didn’t notice any issues, besides some minor squeaking.

The first photo is from Midas, showing the pin is not secured to anything (Pops said it was a rattle pin and not a big deal)

The second photo shows the set up after I put the pin where I believed it was supposed to go. My Dad said that should do it and not to worry about it.

Thoughts? I usually drive 500-1000mi a week.

Thank you in advance

Hi everyone,

I'm a bit desperate and would really appreciate any advice. I'm a girl and I really need this car for work. My car is a Seat Arosa 1.0 (AUC engine), which is basically the same as a VW Lupo 1.0 and very similar to the Polo 6N.

Whenever I turn the key to the ON position (before cranking), there has always been a very distinctive buzzing/humming noise from the front of the car. It's fairly loud and lasts about 2-3 seconds. It has done this every single time since I've owned the car and it was normal for me.

Last Monday the check engine light came on. However, the car drove perfectly normally all week (Monday to Saturday). On Saturday I parked it in my garage.

Then on Monday, when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. The strange thing is that the first time I turned the key, that familiar buzzing noise sounded much louder, deeper and rougher than usual. After that, the engine never started.

Since then, every time I try again, that buzzing noise has completely disappeared. I can still hear the relay clicking, but that original 2-3 second buzzing is gone.

So far I've checked:

- All fuses are OK.

- I removed the fuel pump cover and recorded a video. The fuel pump does make a small humming noise when I turn the key, so it seems to be getting power.

- I checked the timing belt just in case, but it was replaced about 6 months ago and looks fine.

My brothers think the fuel pump is failing, but I'm not convinced because I can still hear it running. The problem is that the sound I'm missing is different from the fuel pump's small hum. The missing sound was much louder and seemed to come from the front of the engine bay.

The stored DTCs are:

- P0135

- P0171

From what I've been told, neither of these codes should suddenly prevent the engine from starting, especially since it drove perfectly for almost a week after the check engine light came on.

I'm trying to diagnose this without spending a lot of money replacing random parts.

I'm attaching several videos so you can hear the sounds I'm talking about.

Does anyone know what that 2-3 second buzzing noise could have been? Is there anything else I can test at home with basic tools before buying parts? While searching through forums, I found someone with a very similar problem and in their case the car would start again simply by adding more fuel because the fuel level was too low. I haven't tried that yet, but I'm also very low on fuel although I've been there other times without issues, it can be seen in the videos.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

Hi everyone,
My Peugeot 308 SW II (LC_, LJ_, LR_, LX_, L4_) 1.2 THP 130
only goes into limp mode after taking corners a bit faster. Immediately after the corner, an "Engine Fault" message appears; the engine stutters and has hardly any power.
If I turn the engine off and restart it, the car runs perfectly normally again right away, and the message is gone.
The tank is full; I’m still checking the oil level. The problem occurs consistently after taking sharper corners.
Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what the cause might be? A loose connection, the fuel supply, or something else?

I have a 09 honda accord and i wanna fix it up before I decide to sell it but there's a bunch of lights on the dash because of the abs module how should I go about fixing this

Hello all I've got two mgms a 98&2000, and both are experiencing some issues any advice on either is appreciated

The 2000s timing chain tensioners finally gave out I had been ignoring a rattle on startup and finally I was driving her one day and all the sudden right as I accelerated there was some loud chain slop I limped home at like 15mph no codes no other crazy sounds so Im positive I didn't bend any valves but won't do that again any advice on the timing chain job and oil pan would be great Ive got an engine support bar I plan on going from the top and blocking the motor mounts.

The 98 keeps jamming it's sway bar links into the upper ball joint stud like it's too long or something but they match the ones that are on my car identically and they aren't swapped left or right, could the sway bar be bent? Ok the cars hood popped up on the previous owners daughter and she jumped a curb so maybe then it pushed it up slightly? Everything else seems fine the car drives okay but you can feel it's tight on some turns and the vibration is more noticeable at lower speed than higher.

Any help is much appreciated in usually better with my vehicles but life's been kicking the crap out of my balls recently. Ty

What is this?
2018 Honda accord 2.0t. :(

I was just cruising on the freeway going 60 when rpms dropped to 0, and the lights for VSC OFF, VSC TRAC OFF, and oil pressure went on. I checked engine oil level and it’s correct with no leaks under the car. No CEL either. Car would crank but won’t start. Timing belt was done in Feb. Has anyone dealt with this before or have suggestions on what it could be?

**UPDATE - I checked EFI fuse 20A and it was blown. I put in another and tried to start the car and it blew too.

Is there something I can do other than using brute force? Tried squeezing it on with pliers to no avail

Id like to preface this by saying nobody is currently driving this car and I am not a mechanic

The steering wheel feels like it needs oil or fluid and its not smooth when turning but only after driving for a bit. Theres a noticeable and worrying creaking noise when turning but its almost hard to hear from the outside of the car. Theres this kind of creaking noise when driving, mostly slowish, that you can hear feel near your feet around the breaks or bottom of the car. The weirdest part is the noise only appears after driving the car for a bit (20+mins).

My internet searches came up mostly with things related to ball bearing, cv joints and suspension issues. I had the car looked at thoroughly at the honda dealership and a highly rated mom and pop just 3 months ago. Honda recommended a transmission fluid and steering fluid change but didnt see anything else of issue. They also said it could be a steering column issue but didnt suggest replacing it. The other shop said they didnt see a huge problem either (they said they couldnt reproduce the creaking noises).

I aooreciate the feedback in advance!

2020 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid LE - 2.5 L 4-cylinder

When driving on the highway, and going over 65 mph, AWD system malfunction pops up.

Does anyone know the cause of this?

Hello, sorry for my english in advance (I’m not a native speaker) but i’d like some insights.

I went to the mechanic to try and diagnose the issue with my fuel system (popping from exhaust while idling, sometimes the car shuts off after starting it up, rough cold starts, very strong petrol smell), thought it might be injectors or something related to fuel pressure. For some reason they decided to check my head gasket and they said that it was bad? They did some kind of test and said there was smoke coming from it. I’ll attach a video below (i had my engine rebuilt like 2 months ago because of bad compression, so new gasket and all of the other parts).

Today I took my car to the mechanic that did my engine rebuild, he spent quite some time looking at it, checking everything for leaks or anything, checking if the engine overheats or if there is a coolant leak, but nothing… engine runs perfectly fine and the compression is good. No check engine lights, nothing.

Now I’m not sure what to believe since I’m not really good with cars…can anyone tell anything from the video? Do I need to change my head gasket again or can I just try to find the problem with the fuel system?

vw mk5 1.4tsi 2008

I'm thinking about buying the Autel MaxiSYS MS906 PRO tool. Anyone have to share experience with using it? Any pros/cons?

The Vehicle: 2007 Nissan Frontier 4.0L VQ40DE V6 6MT.

​The Problem:

A severe "hard miss" and hesitation under moderate acceleration/load and a rough idle. It originally threw a P0300 (Random Misfire) with crazy fuel trims (Bank 2 dumping/pulling fuel), but we’ve finally isolated the physical miss to Cylinder 6. The miss is intermittent but recurrent.

​The Insane Part:

This exact same fault existed on the original engine, which has since been replaced with a reman engine. The misfire on Cylinder 6 immediately continued on the replacement engine.

Thinking it was the computer, I swapped the ECU with a known-good/programmed unit. Zero effect.

​What We Have Tested/Confirmed:

-​Compression: Passes perfectly.

-​Leak Down: Passes perfectly.

-​Spark: Present and visually confirmed.

-​Injector: Injector is new. The mechanic even ran temporary bypass wires directly from the ECU to the Cylinder 6 injector to 100% rule out a hidden break or short in the factory harness. The misfire remained exactly the same.

​Parts Replaced (All with no effect):

-​Entire Engine Assembly long block

-​ECU / ECM

-​Spark Plugs & Ignition Coils (NGK)

-​Fuel Injectors (BOSCH)

-​Catalytic Converters (Currently 1,000 miles on them. We even tested with gutted cats to rule out backpressure—no change).

-​MAF Sensor (Tested with a known-good OEM unit).

​Things We Have Already Ruled Out:

-​Flywheel Indexing / Reluctor Ring: Mechanic just put an oscilloscope on the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The waveform is perfectly clean. We visually inspected the reluctor ring teeth, and they are pristine.

-​O2 Sensor Wiring: We did end-to-end continuity testing from the Bank 2 AF sensor plugs all the way to the ECM pins. No shorts to ground, no cross-continuity. (Note: I had a scan tool glitch showing a "ghost" 0.89V on Bank 2 even when unplugged, but the ECU swap proved this was just a default placeholder value on my scanner, not a real electrical short).

-​EVAP Purge Valve: Tested good (not stuck open).

​Current Status:

The truck has a mechanically sound engine, a good ECU, spark on Cyl 6, a direct hardwired fuel pulse to Cyl 6, and perfect compression. Yet, Cylinder 6 is dead/missing under load and intermittent missing at idle, causing the ECM to go crazy with fuel trims on Bank 2.

​My mechanic is out of ideas. I am out of ideas. Since the engine and ECU are both different, the only things remaining from the original truck are the chassis, the fuel pump/tank, sensors, and the rest of the main wiring harness.

​Has anyone ever seen a chassis-side or harness-side issue cause a single-cylinder misfire under load that survives an engine swap?

​Any out-of-the-box theories are welcome. I'm losing my mind.