I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C just upgraded the cam I have a Stage 2 HRT comp cams cam and I have BBK long tube headers. My question is am I okay to get it remote tuned from a person such as reid performance or am I better off just sending my ecu out? I'm leaning more towards remote tuning but I wasn't sure if I run any risks from that. Also what is the process of remote tuning?

I recently changed front pads and rotors on my 2015 Dodge Durango with heavy duty tow package brakes. Bosch rotors and pads.

Afterward I did some light driving and braking to bed in and test. There was the typical brake smell but I understand this is normal. After several days and maybe 100 miles of driving the odor persists and is quite noticeable. I know this can be normal but I've honestly never had odor after doing brakes.

Out of curiosity I checked the temperature of the rotors with an infrared thermometer. After about 20 minutes of suburban stop and go driving, the driver's side rotor reads about 240F and the passenger is about 305F. I've tested this a few times and the passenger side is always about 50 degrees hotter. Rear brakes are the same temp on both sides.

I suspected the passenger caliper was dragging so I took the wheel off and re-greased the slide pins. No change - passenger side still runs hotter. So I decided to replace the caliper with a new one and made sure the slide pins were plenty greased. Still no change.

I don't notice any difference when driving, hear any sounds, or any pull to the left or right when braking. The odor is definitely stronger on the passenger (hotter) side. When the wheels are jacked up I don't see any signs the calipers are stuck and can turn them with my hands with the resistance about the same on both sides.

I'm not sure how much of a problem this is. But it is the brakes on our family car so I'd like to understand what's going on.

My understanding is even the higher temperature is not high enough to cause damage. If I never measured the temperatures I would not even know there was a difference. But the odor is a not going away so I think there must be some sort of binding on the hotter side. But I'm running out of ideas for what could be causing the difference.

Any insights or experiences are appreciated. Thanks!

I have a bad knocking coming from the front-right of my 2006 Merc CLS. It happens at slow-speed manoeuvring such as parking and when turning the wheel lock-to-lock.

https://reddit.com/link/1v4nhlz/video/ooj5hbz431fh1/player

From outside it sounds like it's coming from one of the lower side (arm, ball joint or tie rod).

There seems to be a lot of play in this bushing on the lower control arm (video attached), would this be enough movement to create this knocking?

Also I have attached a video of tie rod, should I be able to move it with ease by-hand? Could this also cause the noise?

https://reddit.com/link/1v4nhlz/video/t1jn1byc31fh1/player

I have checked for play up/down on the ball joints and they seem to have very little play, if any.

It’s been having this squeaking for a while but in the past couple weeks it sounds worse. Did an oil change but nothing. One of the belts? 200k miles

Changing drums,shoes, generic spring kit. New drum wont go over shoes and if i can force it on will not spin. Star adjuster turned all the way down, Shoes shimmed left right up down and nothing. Not sure why i can only post one pic. Also THIS time around dont have the horse shoe clip on cus i messed it up so holding out till i can fit it on snuggly

Getting repairs done on a 2012 versa and I was told I need 4 spark plugs, an ignition coil, and an intake manifold. One thing that makes me hesitate is that he said something along the lines of "since we are moving the intake manifold, we might as well replace it while we're in there." Is this normal, and what price range would this all typically be? Thank you

2018 Honda odyssey.

There’s this ‘roller coaster’ sound coming from the wheels. Happens when driving straight and sometimes turning. Video taken with wheel lifted, and spinning it manually. Is this a failing cv axle?

My shifter seems to be sticking only when the truck is on. I checked the clutch fluid reservoir today and it was completely empty. Filled it but same thing. What could it be? Brakes are locking up too. Are the two lines on the same cylinder and it’s leaking or freezing?

Getting ready to do the spark plugs on my 2004 lexus rx330.

I'm fairly handy on cars, done a few head gaskets and tore down a cylinder head and replace a few intake valves on a kia that had a timing belt fail. Brakes, fluids, struts, rack and pinion replacement ect

My question is for those who have worked on the rx330, what else would you do while the upper intake is off?

I'm thinking PCV, possibly thermostat, and coils?

I've never replaced coils before they fail but due to the back 3 being a pain in the ass it may be worth it.

Thoughts?

Hey people, my front right wheel appears to sit further back in the wheel arch than the left? The car also pulls to the left, however the wish bone / control arm does not appear to be bent to me?

What could this be caused by? I am planning to get my shock absorbers replaced, however i don’t believe that would be what’s causing this?

i posted this on 2 other pages asking just trying to get some more opinions

Hello! I have a question regarding my car, and if anyone who is familiar with vehicles can give me some insight or guesses.
I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala V6 with 95K miles on it. For the past month of two i’ve unfortunately had to drive it with a cracked oil pan as i could not afford to get this replaced right away. I was told by my mechanic to check the oil levels and I never let them get low. I replaced the oil if it dropped every few weeks or so.
But when I would drive sometimes the oil pressure light would pop up for a few seconds to a minute and then go away. Yesterday, i paid $750 to get my cracked oil pan and broken lower motor mount REPLACED. I received my car back this morning and it feels like it is driving a LOT smoother.
This being said, there is sometimes a clicking noise coming from the engine (i think?) when I cold start my car, which goes away after a few seconds. When I drive the car feels great, but the oil pressure light keeps coming back on even after fixing the leak in the Oil Pan.
Could this be that the oil pressure sensor is faulty? Or do you think it’s the oil pump? or something else. Thank you

2016 Toyota Corolla LE, 121,000 miles

I got a pretty rough idle and shaking car when driving yesterday, check engine light and trac off lights cans on, figured it was just one of the spark plugs gone bad, so this morning, I took my car into a shop to have the spark plugs replaced. They replaced them and informed me that my car was still misfiring. They replaced the ignition coil on the cylinder that was misfiring, but my car is still misfiring. The shop informed me that it was likely a fuel injector problem, and they advised me to go elsewhere since they don't handle fuel problems at their shop.

What I want to know is how likely replacing or cleaning a fuel injector is to actually solve the problem and what I can do to find out if the fuel injector actually is the problem? What else might it be? I can't afford to be playing whack-a-mole with my car right now. Thanks

The car randomly vibrates when in neutral (6-manual) google says it’s probably a worn out engine or transmission mount. What do you folks think?

Hello, out of no where my screen half of it is glitchy and looks like it’s super low resolution, it’s a 2025 Silverado 5.3 , any advice would be appreciated.

when you’re braking lightly and coming to a stop, do you notice the 3rd → 2nd → neutral/downshift transition quite a bit? Like, do you feel a slight push right at the end instead of the car slowing down smoothly all the way to a stop? I’m just trying to figure out if this behavior is normal

It’s almost like when you’re coming to a stop, the transmission shifts into 2nd, but just as it’s finishing engaging, it immediately disengages again, so you feel a slight forward push

Need some advice on setups. Been rocking this for roughly 6 months and starting to feel a bit crowded. I appreciate the help

Hi, I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I’ve noticed some creaking and a little clunk (sometimes) while driving. I did the 12 and 6 test and used a pry bar and don’t feel play on the lower ball joint also the bushings don’t look that bad. Maybe a little surface crack unusual wear I’d say. When I go 9-3 there’s a little creak and when I checked the outer tie rod, it has some play. Alittle more than the driver side. I bought sway bar end links because it’s a cheaper fix and easier to do and I’ll do it on the weekend. Take a look. Any advice would be appreciated.

My dad passed and left this unfinished car to me and my sisters. Trying to figure out the engine in it. I know it’s an LS. Likely a LS3 or LS7 from what I remember. This is a king T body and got the first one in the country back in 06.

Can anyone help? Thank you!!!

Advice on powersteering issues and pully system

Title. 2011 Honda Accord, 4-cylinder.

I started hearing squeaking and ticking noises under the hood around two weeks ago. Replaced the serpentine belt because I figured it was going bad, but that didn't fix anything. Next idea I had was the belt tensioner but I don't know for sure. The noise is getting louder and I don't really know what to do.