I have a lot of important files on my D drive and dont have any external storage to back it up, I was told I will only lose files from my C if I reset but Im worried I might lose my files on Drive D. Will I be fine resetting it from windows settings?

It's mostly large media files and I dont have cloud storage to store them too

So when i went through my startup folder today because my ahk files werent working and found this shortcut just chilling there: "LG Monitor App Installer" i never installed it and haven't to agreed to it no nothing.

LG sneaks this through Windows Update or driver installs if it sees you've got an LG monitor plugged in and with no pop it just appears...

Hi, I was drawing on my laptop when it started to slow down a lot (even though when I looked at the processes, it seemed everything was fine with the CPU and memory) and suddenly got a message saying I only have 700 MB of space left despite it showing 20 GB a few hours prior. I checked my file explorer, it showed even less space (about 400MB) before going back up to about 20 GB. It happens occasionally and I have no idea what's going on, though I feel the disk may be getting fried as it's over 12 years old. I use Linux Mint 22.3 (Cinnamon).

I have an Element TV (model ELEFW605), and even when it is set to the absolute lowest volume possible I can hear it from outside of my apartment. I have tried to reset the audio settings, unplugged it, changed the audio settings on the xbox connected to it, nothing works. We recently moved and it is still SO LOUD. I just want to watch tv at night without my neighbors hating me🙏🏻

it wont work no matter what i do and is just freezed on 98% , im on windows 11 i dont remember if u updated itt , ive even letted it run for a long time and yet it still inst done , hard reboot and restart wont work neither since it still goes back to the update loading screen

Hello, my PC was working perfectly yesterday. I finished gaming, shut it down normally, and went to sleep. The next day, it wouldn’t power on at all. The motherboard RGB light is on, but none of the fans spin and there is absolutely no response when I press the power button. I already tried clearing the CMOS, reconnecting the cables, and checking the connections, but nothing changed. What is the most likely faulty component: PSU, motherboard, CPU, or GPU?

My PC consistently freezes after 3 to 4 hours of active use.

​1. The Freeze

​The screen completely freezes on whatever program or game was open.

​Peripherals lose power: The LED light on my mouse turns completely off.

​SSD activity stops: The red blinking storage LED on the PC case stops flickering.

​Fans keep spinning: All internal cooling fans stay on.

​2. Reboot & BSOD Behavior

​Holding the power button to force a shutdown and restart takes an unusually long time.

​When it turns back on, the mouse light stays off this is always my warning sign that it won't boot properly.

​It then crashes into a Blue Screen of Death (BSOD) showing the error in [Pic 1].

​After the BSOD, it often bypasses Windows entirely and boots straight into the BIOS (Aptio Setup Utility) shown in [Pic 2].

​3. The Only Temporary Workaround

​If I turn off the PC and leave it unplugged/cooling down for a while, it boots fine and works normally until another 3–4 hours of use pass, and the exact same thing happens again.

​

Repair Shop Visits (3 Times)

​1st Visit: Tech saw the Aptio BIOS screen and just reinstalled Windows. (Didn't fix it).

​2nd Visit: Tech claimed there were "scratches on the RAM" and added padding/cushioning. The PC worked at the shop because it hadn't been running

long enough. (Didn't fix it).

​3rd Visit: Tech left the PC running idle for a full day without running any stress tests or games. He claimed nothing was wrong.

Now that I have to visit him again since my i have insurance there is he trying to avoid any heavy problems that may cause the problem to be solved.

Any help would be appreciated

I have a laptop, it started stuttering for some reason and the shop says it's a keyboard problem. Did a keyboard replacement runs fine but for some reason the app icons doesn't load after 3 mins which is unusual. when I did a first shutdown a prompt appeared saying I need to restart because of a drive error. And that's where the slowness began. when I try to shutdown, it will take minutes to start and when the actual shutting down starts it takes minutes to turn it off completely, sometimes I need to hard press the power button because it takes too long. I did a chkdsk on disk d and at the end it says an unspecified error occured. the shop says I need to reformat it.

questions I have are is that really the only solution and why did an issue like this happened when they only replace the keyboard.

lastly before they replaced it they disabled bitlocker to prevent any error with my SSD and says it's due to a virus that caused this.

Yooo, I have a old Toshiba satellite E45-B4200. I wanted to get some stuff off it after years of sitting in a box and maybe use it as a photo dump place. Tried charging with a new cord and it wouldn't charge. Charge light idicator came on and immediately turned off. Took the back off to inspect/remove the port and battery. I realized my hard drive, USB board, and inside of the shell have corrosion.

I assume it is SOL. Curious if cleaning with alcohol would be enough to save the device and/or my hard drive.

Lenovo Ideapad 300-17ISK model 80QH. The screen had been going dark at certain angles, now it’s permanently very dark. The fans work, the icons appear. Tried the F12 brightness button, and the windows + Ctrl + shift + b. Took it to Best Buy, and they said they can’t get screens, so can’t fix.

I read that since the screen does—extremely faintly—display correctly, it’s probably a fuse or wire issue in the motherboard? Screens are available.

Is this fixable? I like this little laptop, and I don’t want to buy accounting and word processing software all over again.

Hello,

My Crucial SSD is write protected. On plug in Windows says it needs to be repaired but won't push past the protection. I have tried various solutions: cmd change readonly attributes, formatting, regedit. I have downloaded Crucial Storage Executive but am unable to update the firmware there or find it manually. It has been mostly unused but has traveled with me. The data on there is accessible but not needed I just want the drive in working order. If it's bricked it's bricked but willing to try anything. Thank you

https://imgur.com/a/gqjJEZv

i just opened chrome and it had two tabs open, one was the new tab and another one was https:// app-makerr .github.io /updates_ext/ (without the spaces) first i thought it was a extension because it says "successfully updated to v1.4.4" however it doesn't say anything about what's being updated, it also redirects to another extension to copy and paste that has 2 reviews, i dont have it installed and im almost sure that's a virus. if anyone knows why this opened up it would be a great help

edit: the code of the website has some code comments in russian

I am trying to figure out if there is a way to use traefik on all my docker containers (using the domain) with the ability to restrict remote Internet access for specific containers.

I want to reach all of them locally with “*.example.domain“ and make only a few accessible from outside.

I found a way by using different entrypoints:
- remote: 443
- local: 9999

(80 is being redirected to 443)

With that jellyfin for example is accessible by „jellyfin.example.domain“

But now vaultwarden which should be only locally accessible is being accessed by vaultwarden.example.domain:9999

Is there a smoother approach that does not require the need of specifying the port?
Also I dont mean middleware ip whitelist because local intended containers should not be exposed at all.

Mother board: MSI PRO x870E-P
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800XT
850w power supply
32gb ddr5 ram
GPU: Radeon 9070xt

The issue I am having with this new build is that the machine will sometimes not post with the CPU and DRAM lights lighting up on the motherboard. I've checked the pins on the cpu and reseated it and moved the ram to the 2nd and 4th slots. CPU power cables are firmly locked in and the ram sticks have their tabs in the locked position.

I have a weird behaving pc and Im hitting a wall on what to do. Since about a month or so, it doesnt POST. All rgb and fans turn on but it doesnt get to BIOS. The motherboard gave mixed signals with the diagnostic lights. A few times orange (ram), most of the time white (vga), also seen red (cpu) like once or twice.

The weird thing is, sometimes after a few tries it completes post and boots normally, especially when the power cable has been unplugged and replugged or the psu was turned off and on again. When it does, the pc behaves normally: it runs well, no crashes even under heavy load or when staying on for a long time ect. None of the components seem to be broken. The issue only repeats when the pc is fully turned off and needs to turn on again. Id say i can get it to post maybe 5-10% of the time.

The issue occurs both with a seperate gpu installed and with igpu and I can also get successfull boots with either. Ive tested the gpu in a different pc and it works fine there. Ive tried different monitors, different hdmi/dp cables, different power cables and different ports on the pc, it makes no difference.

I cleared cmos, turned off expo, flashed the bios, updated the bios, neither made a difference. Ive seperately tried a completely new motherboard, RAM and power supply. All of those did not fix the issue. Behaviour stayed the same with the new parts.

The only thing Ive not tried to replace at this stage is the processor, but I find it so hard to believe that a faulty processor runs smoothly during the few times that the pc does boot.

But then, what else could it be? Is there any other stuff I can try? Ill try anything at this point to be able to use tue pc and play games again..

Specs: amd ryzen 5 9600x, sapphire nitro+ 9060xt, asus tuf gaming b650m plus wifi, corsair vengeance ddr5 6000mhz, cooler master sfx gold 850w, cooler master atmos 2 240mm aio. Built in november 2025

I recently purchased a 43 inch TCL Google tv that runs 4k at 60hz. Not the best specs ever, but just fine for the gaming I do.

Anyway, up until today, the TV was running natively at 3840x2160 and I had a great experience, but for some reason, my tv is now running at 4096x2160 and is causing borders.

Yes I know I can change settings on my PC to match the active signal resolution, but then my games will have borders bc plenty don't support that resolution.

I'd like to revert back to 3840x2160 since that is my recommended resolution and that's the native resolution of the TV (standard 16:9 at 4k instead of 17:9)

Dual monitor setup

TCL 43 Google Smart TV 4k uhd HDR (3840x2160 native. Still don't know why it's forcing 4096x2160)

ThinkVision T22i-20 1920x1080

XFX QUIK 319 Radeon rx 6700 XT 12GB

I7 9700K 3.6 GHZ

32GB of RAM (3200 MT/s)

Corsair Galleon 100 SD

Logitech G502 X

I don 't know if I chose the flair correctly.

This issue had happened enough over the pass 6 months that I notice it. I built this PC 6 months ago, spec at the bottom. The crash and restart happened only when I was away from the screen doing stuff like cooking or laundry. So the PC was idling. I also notice after crash and restart, my wireless adaptor is always faulty, would not detect any WI-FI including the neighbors. Restart the adaptor alone will not fix the issue. I had to restart PC again to be normal.

Not really a big issue, wasn't doing anything serious on PC, happen occasionally. But would still like to know how/where do I troubleshoot to find the cause.

Thanks.

https://old.reddit.com/r/TestMyPost/comments/1pj2lmx/test/

Hello

So recently my phone has decided that it doesn't want to connect to the internet or use Bluetooth. I noticed this on Tuesday last week and it has been really annoying since I can't listen to any music on the ride home plus inducing mobile data for an entire month isn't very cost effective. Anyways so whenever I turn my Bluetooth on it just pops up with a message on my screen saying "Bluetooth has stopped working" and just completely turns off. As for my Wifi it seems to just not connect to anything or show anything. I've literally tried everything I've reset Bluetooth and Wi-Fi settings I've checked for system updates I generally don't know what it is but if someone could please help me out here it would be a great deal to me

I was mid discord call when all of a suddenf I disconnected and my messages weren't sending all other apps were fine and I was confused until I turned on a VPN and suddenly everything was working as per usual. Why could this be?

Guys can you help me with this error ?

I was trying to install win 11 to my laptop(Intell Inspiron 15 3510) and this error shows up everytime at last steps, when this error popup, my laptop suddenly turned off and restart automatically, I tried some YT tutorials but they didnt work 😞 Can someone help me with this 🙏 please

Error is " windows setup could not configure windows to run on this computer's hardware "

My pc keeps randomly “turning off” (screen goes black, no audio, caps lock doesn’t turn on however the lights on the pc are on and keyboard and mouse still lit up) and the fan either blows at max for a second or keeps going until manually turned off with the main button. Happened at first if left alone for too long a couple of days ago, now happened mid game, then when i tried turning it on again it did the same thing immediately. Left it for a minute, tried turning it on and it worked for about five minutes before it died. Any thoughts?

Update: it gave me a livekernelevent 141

Whenever I extract big zip files my computer starts genuinely dying, I have no clue why. I have a i5-9400f CPU and SSD kingston SA400S37480G let me know if I need to give you any other information

​

Hi, I'm having a weird Wi-Fi issue with my Moto G05 and I'm looking for a solution.

My ISP provided me with a Huawei OptiXstar HG8145X6-10 router (Wi-Fi 6). The router broadcasts a single SSID for both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

My Moto G05 connects to my home Wi-Fi at only 54 Mbps and shows "Legacy" mode, giving me around 11 Mbps on speed tests.

The strange part:

\- My mother's Moto G04 connects to the same Wi-Fi network at 433 Mbps and gets the full 100 Mbps internet speed.

\- My Moto G05 connects normally as Wi-Fi 5 on other networks.

\- I already tried resetting network settings multiple times.

\- I tested right next to the router, so signal strength is not the issue.

It seems like a compatibility problem between the Moto G05 and this Huawei router.

Does anyone know what could cause this or how to force the phone to use Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) instead of Legacy mode?

Thanks!

Hello everyone, since round about 6 months i experienced Network Jitters while playing Counter Strike 2 up to 150ms. This was just the case when someone else was also using the WiFi, so i waited until everyone was asleep to play. Today the jitters even started when everyone was asleep and it was just me playing. I only experience these Problems in Cs2, i could play Valorant anytime and wouldnt have a single lag. I use an Ethernet cabel and i changed EVERY Setting i saw online as like power saving connection or something like that. If someone could help me out, please reach out to me.. its my favourite game and the only thing I am not able to play without this annoying jittering which makes the game unplayable and every player just teleports..

Hello,

I am attempting to move emails for my boss, basically we have outlook through Godaddy, and after a year of not being able to get any help, we have decided to move to Google workspace using the exact same email address, but through Google. I am currently trying to delete our MX for outlook. Once I do that, and replace it with Googles MX, will people be able to continue emailing her like normal since it uses the same email address?

TL;DR if I have [email protected] through outlook, if I make [email protected] through Google workspace, will clients be able to continue to use the same address?