I have a lot of important files on my D drive and dont have any external storage to back it up, I was told I will only lose files from my C if I reset but Im worried I might lose my files on Drive D. Will I be fine resetting it from windows settings?

It's mostly large media files and I dont have cloud storage to store them too

it wont work no matter what i do and is just freezed on 98% , im on windows 11 i dont remember if u updated itt , ive even letted it run for a long time and yet it still inst done , hard reboot and restart wont work neither since it still goes back to the update loading screen

Hello, my PC was working perfectly yesterday. I finished gaming, shut it down normally, and went to sleep. The next day, it wouldn’t power on at all. The motherboard RGB light is on, but none of the fans spin and there is absolutely no response when I press the power button. I already tried clearing the CMOS, reconnecting the cables, and checking the connections, but nothing changed. What is the most likely faulty component: PSU, motherboard, CPU, or GPU?

i just opened chrome and it had two tabs open, one was the new tab and another one was https:// app-makerr .github.io /updates_ext/ (without the spaces) first i thought it was a extension because it says "successfully updated to v1.4.4" however it doesn't say anything about what's being updated, it also redirects to another extension to copy and paste that has 2 reviews, i dont have it installed and im almost sure that's a virus. if anyone knows why this opened up it would be a great help

edit: the code of the website has some code comments in russian

At random times of the day I will get a pop saying you are about to be signed out or restart in 1 minute, or along those lines. Basically, in 1 minute my laptop will just restart and there is no cancel option and this happens once or twice a day at different times. My settings also says I’m up to date so I’m confused.

Hii,

I'm not sure if i'm in the right place here, let me know if I should ask this question elsewhere. English is not my native language so i'm sorry for the grammar.

January this year I bought my first PC and it was working fine without much problems. Also good to mention, my knowledge about pc's is very basic.

But, I play a lot of Where Winds meet. So solo mode is fine, but the moment I go into online mode in an area with many people my game just lags and freezes. Same in guild war (less but its not running smoothly). Also from what I can see the moment I step into online mode, is that my CPU and GPU go to a 100% and stay at min 90%. I don't have any latency (cable). Oh, and I've checked if there is anything running in the background but nothing big. I do see that discord is also using a lot of resources, when I close it while playing it also helps a bit but it's still not running properly.

I've already lowered all of my settings which seems to work a little bit, but it's just not looking pretty, I don't mind that for guild war but I wanna be able to play on normal settings. I've also made sure my drivers are updated and the GPU is optimised.

Here are my specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 8400F 6-core

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060

SSD: Kingston SNV3 S1000g

RAM: 32 GB

MB: MSI PRO A620AM-B

Is this something I can solve or are my specs too low? And if, what should be updated?

Thanks in advance! :)

Not sure what I’m doing wrong but I think I’m using the wrong adapter or one that isn’t compatible.

Some Notes:
-The Wii works find with regular cables.
-I switched the HDMI cable to different HDMI cable in case it was the HDMI and it’s not the HDMI cable.
-I switched the Wii to another TV with the adaptor (it works on this TV with regular cables) and it does not work with this TV either.
-i also made sure to used the mini usb port included with the adaptor with both TVs to make sure it had extra power.

This is the LG TV (model#: 65UA7500ZUA) I’m trying to connect the Wii to. This is the Onn adaptor
that I’m using.

What am I doing wrong? I am not tech savvy so I really appreciate any help.

Hey on 19/07/2025 my pc had this massage and after that error code 00xc0000001. I had that massage a little while after the update. I managed to fix it but i don’t know how. I gave ip and wanted to try the next day but the problem was gone.

Then yesterday 21/07/2025 i was gaming and boom. I got the same error code and i did the same thing as i did the last time i got this problem it was repairing windows with a usb that got windows on it but it did not work (i stil don’t know if that fixed it last time) and i don’t know what the problem could be. Can it be hardware or is it a software issue.

What should i do/try

Specs:
Cpu: R5900x
Gpu: rtx3060ti
Ram: 64gb (2x 32gb) vengeance lpx ddr4 3600 c18
Psu: be quiet 750w platinum
Motherboard: asus strix x570 gaming-e wifi 2
M.2: samsung 990 pro 1tb
M.2: lexar lnq790 2tb

I am trying to figure out if there is a way to use traefik on all my docker containers (using the domain) with the ability to restrict remote Internet access for specific containers.

I want to reach all of them locally with “*.example.domain“ and make only a few accessible from outside.

I found a way by using different entrypoints:
- remote: 443
- local: 9999

(80 is being redirected to 443)

With that jellyfin for example is accessible by „jellyfin.example.domain“

But now vaultwarden which should be only locally accessible is being accessed by vaultwarden.example.domain:9999

Is there a smoother approach that does not require the need of specifying the port?
Also I dont mean middleware ip whitelist because local intended containers should not be exposed at all.

Hi,

I have a Cepter TV connected to a Cepter soundbar using HDMI ARC/eARC.

Everything worked normally until a power outage. After the power came back, the soundbar no longer works through HDMI.

Symptoms:

• HDMI cable is detected by the TV (it says HDMI 3 is connected)
• The TV does not detect the soundbar under CEC devices (shows "None")
• No sound through HDMI ARC
• Bluetooth connection to the soundbar still works
• I have tried:
  • Restarting both devices
  • Factory resetting the TV
  • Trying different HDMI cables
  • Unplugging both devices and reconnecting them

Since HDMI is detected but CEC devices are missing, I suspect the ARC/CEC handshake is failing, but I am not sure if this is a TV issue or if the soundbar's HDMI/CEC hardware was damaged by the outage.

Any ideas on what else I can test?

Hello everyone,
excuse my english i prefered chatgpt describing writing this over me

I've been troubleshooting a system that's been experiencing recurring BSODs for quite some time, and after exhausting the troubleshooting steps I could think of, I'm hoping to get some insight from people with more experience in WinDbg and kernel debugging.

System

• Windows 11 Pro 25H2 (Build 26200.x)
• Intel Core i9-14900KS
• ASUS ROG Strix Z790-E Gaming WiFi II
• G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 48GB (2×24GB) DDR5-8400
• NVIDIA RTX 5080
• Crucial T705 Gen5 NVMe SSD

Summary

The crashes originally started before I reformatted Windows. Because the bugchecks and faulting modules kept changing, I performed a clean installation of Windows to rule out OS corruption.

Unfortunately, the same type of instability continues after the reinstall.

The BSODs are not tied to one specific activity. I've had crashes while gaming, during normal desktop use, and even shortly after boot with nothing significant running.

Besides the BSODs, Windows itself has been unstable:

• Task Manager occasionally opens and immediately closes by itself.
• Corsair iCUE crashes every 30 mins or less.
• Google Chrome also crashes memory acess violation especially during video running on youtube
• and every windows program almost

I'm mentioning these in case they're relevant to the overall picture.

Bugchecks observed

Before reinstall:

• MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
• PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
• SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
• KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
• INTERRUPT_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
• ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY

After reinstall:

• PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
• HYPERVISOR_ERROR

WinDbg

Across different dumps, WinDbg has pointed to different Microsoft components, including:

• ntoskrnl.exe
• WdFilter.sys
• Ntfs.sys
• win32kbase.sys

Since the reported module changes from crash to crash, I'm unsure whether these are the true source of the problem or simply where Windows eventually detects the failure.

Troubleshooting already performed

• Clean Windows installation
• BIOS updated
• Latest chipset and GPU drivers installed
• sfc /scannow completed successfully
• Disabled XMP and currently running memory at default JEDEC settings
• Ran the motherboard's built-in MemTest from BIOS after disabling XMP (no errors reported at default settings)
• Collected multiple crash dumps and Event Viewer logs

Installed software that may be relevant

Some software on the system installs kernel components or low-level drivers. I'm not suggesting any of these are responsible, but I'm listing them for completeness:

• Aimware cheat
• VMware

If there are other installed drivers you'd like me to list, I'm happy to provide them.

Files included

I've attached mediafirelink https://www.mediafire.com/folder/kmwabx65bxpa6/DUMPS

• MSINFO32
• System and Application Event Logs
• driverquery.csv
• systeminfo.txt
• dxdiag.txt
• WinDbg outputs

Thanks in advance for taking the time to look at it.

I got a 265GB Samsung Pro Plus SD about 4 years ago from (I´m pretty sure) Mediamarkt (should be this one)

It should still have about 100GB free space, but somehow, my camera refuses to save any more fotos. I pluged it to my laptop (mac) to check how much space there is left and it says there are only a few MB left, but when I view the folders, the DCIM folder is only 165 GB and all the other files are only a few MB together.

Where did all my storage space go? I don´t think I got scammed since I got it from a credible source... What can I do now? I currently can not empty the SD since my Computer doesnt has enough space for that atm, but I´ll get a new hard drive soon.

Hi everyone! I was wondering if someone could help me with an issue I've been having with my laptop. it is turning on, but the screen isn't. I have tried pressing down on the power button, shift+control+option and the actual laptop and keyboard are turning on but it's just my actual screen. I have a macbook air. Is there something I can do to fix this at home or would you guys recommend going into an apple store to see if anything is damaged?

So I run a three monitor set up and have for a while, the larger main monitor is using the HDMI port and the smaller two use adaptors (they were previously using HDMI ports on something also) for HDMI to Display port.

Today all of a sudden both the monitors on the display ports began having display issues, either white fuzz across the screen so its content is just about visible behind it, or extremely washed out (or both on different monitors) ;

It doesnt matter which display port they are plugged in to, they show the issues, but if I plug any one of them in to the HDMI port, they work fine, similarly if I plug the large monitor in to any of the display ports it also shows these same issues.

I have tried some things as suggested, unplugging, discharging capacitors, starting with only one DP monitor in and nothing else to no avail and I have reinstalled all relevant drivers.

Mother board: MSI PRO x870E-P
CPU: Ryzen 7 9800XT
850w power supply
32gb ddr5 ram
GPU: Radeon 9070xt

The issue I am having with this new build is that the machine will sometimes not post with the CPU and DRAM lights lighting up on the motherboard. I've checked the pins on the cpu and reseated it and moved the ram to the 2nd and 4th slots. CPU power cables are firmly locked in and the ram sticks have their tabs in the locked position.

I don't know if I'm just even more stupid than I thought, but I feel like this is just some weird loop...

So for some reason my Google Chromecast TV thing said my wifi wasn't working, which it is. But either way I decided to remove the wifi and connect again, but now it won't let me!

To type the password it wants me to use my mobile device, but how could I possibly do that, when the Google TV isn't connected to the wifi?.... So it wants me to connect to a wifi in order to.... Be able to connect to a wifi?

I have a professional website. When I tried to visit it today, I see that it displays a product page for cdiscount, a French retailer. I immediately assume my site has been hacked and call my host provider. Customer Service tells me that the website looks fine. Indeed, when I connect via cell service, or through a VPN, everything is fine. When I connect through my own internet (wifi or direct wired ethernet), I see the French product page.

As far as I can tell, it affects no other websites. Each of my subpages seems to be a different product on cdiscount. I've tried my spare router, in case the issue was there, but same problem. Multiple devices (mac laptop, pc, and iphones) - all display the French product page. I'm at a total loss as to how this is even possible. I contacted my internet provider (google fiber), and they have escalated it, but no progress yet. I'm open to any and all troubleshooting ideas. labeling this as malware because it seems suspicious.

EDIT: adding more to this mystery. I copied the content of the fake page and pasted into google to see what popped up. I get iterations of my own website pages with stuff like - www.[mywebsite.com]/femelle-Connecteurs-D-SUB-9-Broches-Souder-Pour-C-bles-S-c-379672

when I connect via VPN, the page is a 404 error. when I connect on my own network the french product page shows

here is the Image

I am facing an issue with high non-paged pool memory usage.

It gradually increases to 10 GB, and sometimes even 13 GB, within a few hours until my laptop gets stuck or hang.

I tried reaching out to HP Support but they demanded a fee or money and did not guarantee that they would be able to fix the issue.

If anyone knows anything about this, or has experienced and solved this issue, please tell me. It would be greatly appreciated.

I also tried using AI to troubleshoot the problem, but it wasn't able to help much.

So I bought this pc off my friend for $200 and it only had one problem which was the WiFi drivers and I fixed those. Now I’m trying to download steam and it’s telling me a bunch of things so I try to run a sfc scannow and that dosent work so I tried to run a dism and what do you know that also dosent work so I tried to factory reset the pc and that also dosent work. This is my first pc, can someone please help me?

Hey folks. I recently bought this WD BLACK SN850X on clearance from Walmart in June for $279. Hell of a deal at the time.. or so I thought.
I first thought there was issues when games would sometimes glitch out very weirdly - textures missing, stuff being REALLY BIG, crashes, etc. I finally decided to see what was up today when I installed CDI. Horror!

The box says it was manufactured in Sept. 2025, so I'd think it still has warranty, but alas SanDisk's website says it does not, nor does WD's.
I'm confused. Where do I go from here?

Screenshot: https://gyazo.com/686e199874c76f74840730a8a7e5f3bf

Today I was looking at my Windows 11 computer, I closed a tab but must have done the wrong shortcut because it went to downloads with a YouTube video I was watching being saved, and I am not sure what shortcut this was. This is not an emergency issue, I am just curious what this was and if this is the wrong Subreddit for this, where I should go instead.

I used Izarc for a long time (My teacher recommended that) since 2022 on my PC. I didn't seen unexpected (ads, pup, and other this kind). Lately, I've been looking into posts about this program, and they often mention bloatware, potential troyans and etc. My antivirus nothing detected since long time and here is virustotal scan.

Is now Izarc unsafe?

Edit: I downloaded from https://www.izarc.org/

My PC consistently freezes after 3 to 4 hours of active use.

​1. The Freeze

​The screen completely freezes on whatever program or game was open.

​Peripherals lose power: The LED light on my mouse turns completely off.

​SSD activity stops: The red blinking storage LED on the PC case stops flickering.

​Fans keep spinning: All internal cooling fans stay on.

​2. Reboot & BSOD Behavior

​Holding the power button to force a shutdown and restart takes an unusually long time.

​When it turns back on, the mouse light stays off this is always my warning sign that it won't boot properly.

​It then crashes into a Blue Screen of Death (BSOD) showing the error in [Pic 1].

​After the BSOD, it often bypasses Windows entirely and boots straight into the BIOS (Aptio Setup Utility) shown in [Pic 2].

​3. The Only Temporary Workaround

​If I turn off the PC and leave it unplugged/cooling down for a while, it boots fine and works normally until another 3–4 hours of use pass, and the exact same thing happens again.

​

Repair Shop Visits (3 Times)

​1st Visit: Tech saw the Aptio BIOS screen and just reinstalled Windows. (Didn't fix it).

​2nd Visit: Tech claimed there were "scratches on the RAM" and added padding/cushioning. The PC worked at the shop because it hadn't been running

long enough. (Didn't fix it).

​3rd Visit: Tech left the PC running idle for a full day without running any stress tests or games. He claimed nothing was wrong.

Now that I have to visit him again since my i have insurance there is he trying to avoid any heavy problems that may cause the problem to be solved.

Any help would be appreciated

Hey everyone,I have an older Dell Inspiron 5500 series laptop (Intel i7 processor) that I rarely use. I am facing a weird network issue and also need some advice on upgrading the hardware

1. Wi-Fi Issue:The laptop's Wi-Fi card shows older Wi-Fi networks in range, but it completely fails to see or detect my current home Wi-Fi network. I have already tried a network reset, resetting the IP stack via Command Prompt (netsh int ip reset), and verifying that the WLAN AutoConfig service is running. Nothing has worked so far. My phone and other newer devices connect to the home Wi-Fi perfectly. Could this be a WPA3 security protocol mismatch or a 5GHz band issue? Any specific driver fixes?

2. Storage Upgrade:The laptop currently runs on an older mechanical HDD and is painfully slow when I turn it on. I want to install an SSD to speed it up. Does the Inspiron 5500 support a secondary M.2 NVMe SSD alongside the HDD, or should I swap the HDD out for a 2.5-inch SATA SSD entirely?Appreciate any troubleshooting tips or hardware upgrade advice!