Which one of you in Rhode Island is this?

GUYS I DID IT!!! This is how to make your Subaru air conditioning stay just as cold as it gets hotter this summer:

Go to your local Home Depot, grab some pipe insulation and aluminum tape. Slide the insulation around your LOW pressure A/C line, and wrap it with aluminum tape.

How it works:

Subarus are notorious for not having great A/C, and that’s mostly due to the low pressure line (cold line) running over the exhaust. The line is bare metal, which heat soaks from the engine. Directly above the exhaust. By isolating that line from that heat, it can keep much much colder! And not be prone to heat soaks nearly as much!

I finally got this 2018 Subaru Impreza hatchback 50th year anniversary edition. I'm so happy for two reasons because this is AWD and it's a 2 liter 4 cylinder boxer. I've only had inline 4 cylinders before that were front wheel drive, so it's good to feel something new.

Due to this being a very special and limited car, with only 550 being made in America(that's just the hatchback's not the sedans included). Some people might say, oh, you should keep that thing low mileage and then sell it for big money. My response to that is hahaha ha no. The only person who own this car was my therapist and she is a travel therapist so you're gonna rack up some miles. In fact she has racked up 125,000 miles and I'm going to continue driving it till the day it dies.

One last thing is, I have thought about modding this car out to be a rally car, but due to their limited production numbers of it, I have decided not to modify it.

Hey everyone,
This is my current setup.
2020 WRX Club Spec (089/150)

Performance
COBB Accessport V3
Process West CAI
GrimmSpeed Charge Pipe
Upgraded TMIC
Invidia Catted J-Pipe
AWE Turbo-Back Exhaust
GFB Respons TMS
Radium Dual Catch Can / AOS
Drivetrain
STI Group N Pitch Stop Mount
Whiteline Transmission Mount Inserts
Whiteline Positive Shift Kit
Perrin Shifter Stop
COBB Weighted Shift Knob
Handling
BC Racing Coilovers
Whiteline Strut Brace
Exterior
Aero kit
Carbon mirror caps
Carbon ducktail
Rear roof visor
Window visors
Red front and rear tow hooks
LED rear fog

Currently making 189.2kW at the wheels on 98RON.

Planned next mods:
GrimmSpeed Turbo Inlet
GrimmSpeed 3-Port EBCS
Retune

What do you guys think?

Hi all. Spotted this legend at one of my customer's today. Is this a real 1998 22B? To me the rims look off, but I'm no expert. I would have loved to ask the owner, but the pilot I originally suspected as that person walked right by it and got in a Hyundai Elantra.

***edit I notice this is left hand drive. Thinking it's not real.

Last year I purchased a high mileage 96 GT Turbo. It had about 362 000 km on the clock and 25 previous owners, so I am proud owner number 26. First picture is the moment after purchase. I drove it 1000km home without any issues, although the car had many issues. Brakes were terrible, lots of weird noises, wheels rubbing up the rear arches, almost no travel in suspension in the front so it was a rough ride. After a week the blow off valve flew out and knocked off inner axle boot and its contents greased up the exhaust. Blow off valve was just shoved in the hose and not clamped in. So that was the first fix. I changed engine oil, filter, air filter and coolant next.

I drove it for 3 months, barely used any oil. I checked coolant 2 times in the month after changing it and it was good, didn't check it later. One day the coolant temp went up and I pulled over asap. I let it cool down, checked the coolant and it was low. No visible leaks, nothing on ground. First thought was headgaskets. Took it to a mechanic and they told me it was leaking from the water pump. So new water pump and timing belt. When I picked it up again, I couldn't even get home before the temp went up and when I took it back the second time they told me it was headgaskets, both of them. They changed the headgaskets, heads were in good condition and was put back in after machine shop. They told engine was in good condition and after I got it back engine's been great.

The car is originally pre face lift, so I also put in pre face lift grill and headlights, hood isn't easy to get cheap so haven't gotten around to it. The brakes were terrible and front springs were too, one of them were snapped. All wheel studs were cut to fit spacers. With good help from one of my friends I got to fix it by myself. Front brakes were STI Brembos and I wanted to fit 15" rims so they had to go anyway. Rear were stock brakes, very rusty and easier to just replace. Got a new set of stock brakes all around, painted them, new discs and pads. Braking is a joy compared to before. New springs in front made the car much more comfortable as well and I got more ground clearance, no wheels are rubbing anywhere.

It has clearly been through a lot and it shows. Headgaskets, water pump and timing belt kit has been costly, but the engine runs great. I was expecting it to be worse when I bought it. Really enjoying this car and now it's it for up a classic car event. As it is 30 years old now, it's a classic. The event is a long roadtrip with a big group of classic cars. Never done anything like it before and it will be fun with this car. Hopefully it won't let me down.

The plan when I bought it was to build and register it as a rally car. It is still my goal and I hope I can make it happen!

'21 Forester just hit boobs. That is all.

I love seeing special/fun badges on cars :)

I had to come back around in the rain to take a photo. I am guessing it has to be your work place. 🚙
In Connecticut

Should I or should I not. I’m an avid car guy but have not owned a manual in 20 years. Learned to drive on my dads Toyota T500 at 17 years old. Drove it for 2 years then had a hodgepodge of cars over all of my years. Currently own a 2016 WRX CVT as a daily. Want to go back to manual and are willing to trade in current car. Should I or should I not?

Sedan Swag

My radio stopped working. It won't play, won't show stations, won't do anything. My Subaru dealer says there is a 'TBI' relating to this issue and there is a 'radio update' that fixes these issues. "This is a lengthy, 2 part update that does involve a bit more time than the newer radio updates."

Anyone know what they are talking about? What kind of updates have to be done by a dealer and cost $311?

Just moved to a snowier area and picked up a 2022 Onyx XT. When I shopped coverage, the quotes I pulled for identical limits were hundreds of dollars apart per 6 months. Same car, same driver, same address. I knew i am supposed to compare but i didnt expect the spread to be that wide on a car with some of the best safety ratings in its class.

What are you paying ballpark and was the spread that big when you shopped too. Starting to think the car matters less than whichever zip code formula each company runs.

I need some advice on my Subaru. Recently my check engine light came on. I took it in to Subaru and they told me I need a new transmission. I was quoted $9k…
My 2021 Subaru crosstrek sport has 90k miles and I’ve always kept up with its maintenance. Right now my car still drives fine. There’s no strange noise or slip or anything of that sort. I was able to drive it home. But now I’m considering buying a new car. I’m bummed because I really love the cool grey khaki color of my subie and I put a lot of work in it.

Edit: I’m also not under warranty anymore.

From what I’ve noticed, it typically happens in hot weather and usually when I’ve either been driving for sometime or the car is put under load.

I have a 2009 Outback 2.5i with the H4, non-turbo with 160K miles on it. The head gaskets have probably been blown since I bought the thing at 117k miles. There has always been oil on the bottom of the oil filter when I go to replace.

I check the oil level regularly and really don't have to top it off that much between my regular 5K mile change intervals.

I was replacing my catalytic converter this weekend and was able to confirm drop of oil forming on the bottom side of the engine where the head meets the block.

The engine oil is always clean, no forbidden milk shake, no overheating. SO my question is: How risky is it to keep operating like this. It is my daily driver, we take it on road trips, etc. Is there a high risk of this external head gasket leak turning into an internal one? Looking for a gut check from those with anecdotal evidence. I've love this car and have put quite a bit of money and sweat equity this year with a timing belt kit, rear wheel bearings and now OEM cat. Would love to give myself a little more time to save up for a cherry picker (or potentially professional) to replace the head gaskets.

2005 Subaru forester xt overheating and when I open the metal reservoir it’s empty and the overflow tank is full and bubbling

In a crazy string of events I had my 2023 Subaru Outback stolen yesterday in Cleveland. I was able to call Subaru and activate the MySubaru service to track my car for the police. They definitely crashed it at least once, stole the contents and the rear view mirror. The one thing that made me laugh was that all of the seatbelts were buckled in. That dinging noise must have drove them crazy!

Owning my 2021 Jetta has been an absolute nightmare over the past year or so and it’s just time to part ways with it. It’s been in and out of the shop, and 6 repairs later I’m just at the point now where I want a non problematic, stress free vehicle.

I’ve been shopping around and after plenty of research, I’m leaning more towards a Crosstrek. I stumbled upon a 2016 Crosstrek 2.0i premium with only 73,000 miles. It is listed at $16,480, seemingly has had regular maintenance done, and is also in the desert khaki exterior color that I want.

Am I going to regret financing this? Am I overthinking it? I’m also looking at a 2015 XV Premium with 120,000 miles for only $9,450.

Last, what should I expect before 100,000 miles maintenance wise and possible problems I may experience with it?

This would be my first Subaru, so any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Feel free to steer me in the right direction with this. I know 2016 was one of the more problematic years, but this one is very much in my budget.

Thank you in advance!

Bought the car brand new near the end of 2024 from dealership.

Took it into the dealership after front driver side brake caliper seems to have been sticking / and having grinding / vibrations when releasing brake.

They checked the front and back calipers stating they're fine but both front and rear left brake pads are essentially metal on metal and right side brakes close to the same point. 80% driven on the highway which is pretty ridiculous for them to be gone like this unless they used the cheapest brake pads I've ever seen.

On top of that they wanted $1800 before tax to change the brakes and rotors which would be $600/hr for labour. Going to pay a ridiculous diag fee of $170 before tax and going to take it to my mechanic now to check.

Also tried to contact their support and [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) is no longer in service and 1-800-894-4212 was a dead line which I tried calling 5 times with dial tone response.

Pretty disappointed in general with this brand now and probably won't buy another one of their vehicles in the future.

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Edit; So I got into contact with the corporate customer care with the new number and shortly afterwards got an email saying;

Regrettably, the replacement of components under normal maintenance, such as brakes, pads, rotors and any other element subject to normal wear and tear, is not covered by warranty. These are the responsibility of owner, along with maintaining the vehicle as per the maintenance schedule.

Ironically their own maintenance schedule is 24,000km and that's only overall inspection.

Anyway, went to the dealership and the service manager couldn't really believe it so had them test drive and check all brake calipers and besides them running low on grease they're perfectly fine and since I live in Ontario even said there's still almost no rust still after the two winters.

So far he delayed the diagnostic fee and is going to talk the regional manager next week as he really wanted to push for it to be fully covered or me just paying the labour fee and taking it back after 10,000km to see if it happens again. ( Would've done it without any issues within first 18 months but needs to argue there's no clear signs of the car sitting and even then at worst they should still last at minimum 35,000km )

Only done regular oil changes up until now. Did I miss anything the 60k doesn't cover?

Second, what should I do myself? I'm adept at oil changes, do I really need to flush brake fluid? From the list it seems like the only major service item is differential flush. Am I right?

Are plugs easy enough to swap, easy access?

Thanks!