Guys, I have these really cute keycaps that have cat charms on them but.. I ordered the wrong type of keycaps and I want to get the charms off and put them on my current keycaps

Genuine question, can I put them in the microwave to melt the adhesive?? Like I'm hitting these with scissors, nails, knives and nothing is getting them off.

Thoughts?

For the love of all you hold dear, please put your brand name, the keyboard model name, and the keyboard serial number somewhere on the keyboard itself. OK, you don't want to desecrate the glorious enamelled weight or pristine aluminum back with a label, so put it inside, I don't care. Even Apple-style unreadable lettering you need a magnifying glass or phone camera to read would be better than nothing.

Can someone suggest something good. Jst to look good while I type things in google and play Roblox. I already bought silent gecko linear switches which is why I want a barebones kit. I need the frame and the part that the switches plug into. Don’t need lighting. Cheap one would be good. I liek these matte white, or grey frames. None of them say the name and f the keyboard

Swapped out the original case and keycaps for a new look. Cost around ~$60 for the keyboard, case, and keycaps. Lubed the stock switches and they sound amazing.

 came to power on my diNovo edge after quite a few months today and the GB and NH keys doth double trigger and space bar inserts the date+time (this one I have no idea of the other keys are close to each other so maybe membrane/track issues).

I've managed to pop the caps off (they are just push on not hooked.

It does need some cleaning but I'm worried about affecting the super thin rubber membrane.

Either by tearing it, or isoprop might erode it, and even just it not being flat (as it has started to lift away from the edges where it was probably trapped at manufacture

Hey all,

Desperately need help deciding on a HE keyboard - tested one out recently and fell in love with it, thought doing some light research would yield results quickly but ended up throwing me into the rabbit hole of hell.

The more I feel confident in a keyboard the more end up getting recommended! Right now I’m between a few:

- Akko MOD007 V5 HE
- Chilkey Slice75 HE
- IQUNIX EV63 HE
- Wooting 60HE V2
- Lofree Hyzen (although I don’t love the bulkiness of the frame)

If anyone has experience with any number of these please let me know (especially how they compare to each other), if anyone has recommendations based on the keyboards listed please also let me know. Here are a few important things I’m looking for:

- At least one predominantly black colorway
- Aluminum frame
- HE/TMR
- Software quality is not that important
- Volume knob is a non-factor
- 75% size
- Budget is (up to) $350

Many thanks for your input.

First of all, it's my first time buying an actual decent keyboard. I'm currently using a K65 with Cherry MX red switches, and one day i just felt disgusted by it and decided to "invest" in some keyboards.

My budget is $200 and I'm down to buy a 80%.

After hours of research, evo 75 sounded like a pretty good one to start off with. I originally wanted to buy the 80 but long story short decided to go with the evo 75 for at home, but regretted it and want to buy a 80 for at home gaming & general use, and use the evo 75 at work.

I'm all hyped up about this keyboard and am thinking about buying another evo, 80, for at home.
But before i just go all in on one keyboard, i'm thinking if i should collect some recommendations and try some other keyboards out since i'll have a evo 75 (assuming rye 75 and oat 80 switch types similarily).

I was originally thinking Rainy 75 / Crush 80, but it seems like the prices have increased since the release of some of the reviews. Crush 80 sitting at $170, same as evo 80, but i saw that the quality and features are a little lacking(??).

So! taking some recommendations so I can watch some reviews!
Also would like to know if evo 75 rye switch is quiet enough for a cubicle work space. (doesn't need it to be super quiet, maybe just not loud)

so razer joro has been released for more than a year now, so i wanna know if its longevity is good or not. ive been planning to get a lowprofile kb since my desk space is just small and im torn between razer joro or nuphy air60HE.

i would get the Air60 HE if i hadn't seen posts about the battery swelling. i saw a post saying that their battery swelled and, to avoid it, they had to dismantle the keyboard and disconnect the battery every time they weren't using it. that's just too much of a hassle for me.

i like the joro cuz its so sleek and flat but im still hesitating to get it cuz im not so sure about razer and their longevity and durability too. im worried in the long term that if a key starts being unresponsive or it breaks, then i just wasted my money and have to get another kb since joro isnt hotswappable.

So which of the two is better? i would appreciate any thoughts and opinions 🙏

Hi, I don't really know where to search information for this issue, but I play celeste on my laptop and I face some problems that prevent me from clearing things.

First of all, there are some key input combinations that my laptop doesn't like. If I grab(tab)+press up(2)+jump(spacebar), it simply does not jump. In order to do so, I have to release the up key and then jump. Similarly, if I want to grab(tab) after dashing(left shift) while pressing up(2) and right(E) simultaneously, I cannot be pressing spacebar and sometimes even then it just doesn't grab.

Another thing that happens is that the character sometimes doesn't jump. After doing things previously and landing on a platform, I try to jump whilst pressing up+right and it doesn't jump and it dies.

In some cases, it jumps out of nowhere, without pressing spacebar. It happens when I previously press spacebar rythmically again and again for like 7 times and when I stopped pressing my laptop autocompleted or something and jumped for me.

Sometimes it does other things that I cannot rember.

What can I do? Changing where my hand is would amend it? Is there some keyboard config that could tell my keyboard to obey me?

Hey all!
I’m a total keyboard newbie.
Need a keyboard for work/gaming. I’m a DevOps engineer, work from home so I get to choose what keyboard I use and want something comfortable.
Gaming wise, not something intense (mainly play RPGs and things like that, not FPS or Esports)

A colleague suggested DROP, but iv’e seen they merged with corsair and I was looking specifically for the CSTM80 which they don’t sell except maybe CoD or DOOM versions, everything else is out of stock.

Another colleague suggested Keychron.

Requirements and preferences:

- I don’t know the size names yet but I don’t want tiny keyboard that I need to press fn for every operation like page down and what not. On the other hand not having a numpad is not a dealbreaker for me so something in between.

- Don’t care much for bluetooth connection, I prefer with cable. Again not a dealbreaker, just that the price can vary.

- I want it mechanical.

- I really prefer a keyboard that I can customize its frame, keys and whatnot. This is really important to me and the main reason DROP is not an option, because I didn’t seem to find any official store that sells custom parts for the keyboards.

- Budget wise: no limit. I want to invest in a good buy that will serve me well for the years to come.

Hi everyone!

I'm hoping someone here owns both a Lemokey P1 HE and Glorious Panda HE Silent switches.

I'm trying to determine whether the Panda HE Silent is electrically compatible with the Gateron Double-Rail Hall Effect PCB used in the P1 HE.

I'm not looking for official support statements.

I'm looking for someone who's actually tested it.

Questions:
• Does it fit?
• Does calibration complete?
• Does Rapid Trigger work?
• Any issues with magnet polarity or Hall sensor compatibility?

I've searched Reddit, Google, YouTube, Bilibili, Baidu Tieba, Zhihu, and other keyboard communities but still haven't found a verified installation.

If you've personally tested this combination, I'd love to hear your experience.

Thanks!

Edit: forgot to mention, my budget is under £100 if possible.
Hi, I’m looking for help, I’m looking to buy my first Hall effect keyboard and I’m a bit overwhelmed with too many options on the market (sorry about my English, it is not my first language).

I wanted to buy a Wooting 60he v2 but, I don’t know if I’m willing to pay over £200 on a keyboard tbh even tho I love the way it looks, but here is what I’m looking for:

60% preferably due to id love to try a different case, or 65% if the keyboard is nice.
Really good on fps games, I mainly play cs2 and fornite.
Something really important to me is the looks (as I said, I love the way Wooting looks) preferably black.
Also, the software, that is really important to me.

I’ve seen the Mchose ace 60/68, aula win60he, mchose 68 turbo, you know, too many options.

Thank you for your help, I’d love to get myself a new keyboard for my birthday but I’m overwhelmed all the options on the market.

As the title says I’m looking for a good keyboard that is 75% (qwerty). I was looking into something that will last me awhile with good response times. I would rather the keyboard be around $150 or less. I prefer wired keyboards however if a wireless one exists that can give the same or better response times then I would definitely take it. Thank you all in advance.

spent the last year trying different boards, switches and settings, and the funny part is I stop noticing most of it once im actually in a match.

the nicer build and sound still matter when im typing, but for gaming I mostly care that the keys feel consistent and dont miss inputs.

I still like expensive keyboards. I just stopped pretending they were going to make me play better.

Hello, currently looking to get a new keyboard or pcb to rip out of.

I’m after a HE keyboard that can take different HE switches, preferably 60% and most importantly just work properly without bad HE implementation.

I’m fine with not having top tier specs and 0.0001ms faster speeds.

Ive tried some of the more cheaper HE boards a while ago but the few I tried had issues with them.

I don’t really care for designs / colours as I’m most likely just after the pcb unless the keyboard comes with with a white alu case.

Thanks in advance :)

I'm currently using the K380, but wanted to switch over to something more premium for the longer term.

The problem with the MX keys mini seems to be the build quality. I see too many reports of the key hook breaking or the enamel/paint chipping. I expect it would last me 1-2 years.

I want something with that's compact, has backlighting, nice key response, and will last 3-4 years.

Sound Test

Board: Womier SK75 Black with all stock foams
Switches: Keygeeks Y2 48g
Keycaps: Keychron OSA Black double-shot PBT side printed with shine through
Artisan: Resin koi from Hirosart

Sound test recorded with Hyper X Quadcast ~20cm away.

Finished this build today, I absolutely love the deep and muted sound profile of the Y2's. They are incredibly well factory lubed. I also adore the OSA profile from Keychron, it is a nice blend of SA and OEM that just works with my hands.

Is this a good enough keybaord for normal use casual gaming and coding?

Hi! I used to have a predator helios neo 16, but the Nvidia chip died after 2 years and I was able to get a good refund (thanks to UK consumer protection laws). I've gone for a desktop which is great, but I'm hoping I can get a good keyboard with a similar layout to that of a predator helios neo 16, so I don't have to relearn muscle memory for various games etc. I've got a £100 budget, so any recs are welcome!

Basically the title, i need a low profile 75% keyboard that is light enough to be portable, theres no budget but i want something value for the price. Also would be nice if they used the 2.0 sockets so i could insert some kailh switches in them.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a 75% mechanical keyboard with a budget of around $85 USD.

I use my PC for both gaming and productivity, so I'm trying to find something that offers a good typing experience while still being responsive for games.

What I'm looking for:

75% layout

Mechanical switches

Good build quality for the price

Wired or wireless

A knob is a must-have feature

Preferably hot-swappable

Mainly interested in dark colorways (black, dark gray, etc.)

Available internationally if possible

I've done some research and these are the options I'm currently considering:

Options I'm considering:

EPOMAKER X Aula F75 MAX

YUNZII B75 PRO MAX

EPOMAKER X Aula EA75 MAX

EPOMAKER EA75

Things I care about the most are typing feel, build quality, and overall value for the price. I don't need anything extremely competitive for esports, but I would like a keyboard that performs well for both everyday work and gaming.

If you've used any of these keyboards, I'd love to hear your experience. I'm also open to other recommendations within my budget.

Thanks!

seeing a lot of newer people worrying that they need a $300–400 board to enjoy the hobby.

I spent an hour tape modding and lubing a cheap plastic board today and it ended up sounding way better than expected.

expensive boards are nice, but you really dont need one to have fun with the boards. sometimes messing around with a cheap board is the best part.

It's acting like I am pressing ctrl, but I'm not. The onscreen keyboard doesn't sow ctrl as being pressed, but it also behaves as if ctrl is being pressed, even if my keyboard is disconnected. I can't even type some letters if they aren't capital (c, v, and h).

It starts to work randomly if I restart, but ends up breaking again.

So, IQUNIX sent me the EV63 HE keyboard for review, and, after using it for a few weeks, I'm actually quite impressed. This is coming from someone without any particular preference for sound profiles but a definite aversion to negative sounds (rattly stabs, scratchy switches, and that typical top-out clatter that's plagued HE boards since forever): You don't need to spend $200+ on an aluminium Hall effect keyboard. IQUNIX has effectively solved the HE top-out clatter, and it's somehow in the brand's "affordable" HE board.

The version I have here is $189, but there is a $169 version with carbon fibre accents and an opaque keycap set. I'd honestly go for the cheaper one if you have an issue with glare bright south-facing LEDs. The backlighting on this board is bright enough that it drowns out the white side-printed lettering when it's enabled.

Oh. It is wired-only, so get out of here if you're a wireless freak.

The EV63, for the most part, is a pretty standard HE board, with all the 8 kHz polling, 0.01 mm RT, and adjustable actuation point at 0.1 mm increments.

Getting this out of the way for sound fanatics, since it does sound pretty dang good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSbTGi_Aqec

Aesthetics and build quality

The aesthetics are neither here nor there. If you like the blasted aluminium texture and frosted transparent PC caps, this will work out well. I personally like that the RGB is visible — sue me, I like the pretty colours — but I also appreciate that the frosted keycaps sort of tamps down the harshness of bright backlighting. The finish on the case is well executed, and the branding on the top is minimal. There's some intricate CNC work on the bottom, which is cool to see, as someone who's done some CNC and design work. It is a tray mount design with an aluminium plate, so the keyboard has no flex while you're typing or gaming.

Keycaps

The EV63's keycaps feel pretty good for Cherry profile keycaps, but there are two issues I personally have with them. For starters, the texture on the tops of the keycaps is a little too rough for my taste. This is subjective, but coming from a my split ergo daily driver, the EV63's caps take some time to get used to. The other gripe I have about the keycaps is that the legend is just not very visible, since it's white text on a frosted surface, the text tends to get blown out by the backlighting. Of course, the easy solution is to just learn to touch type, but that proved a little more challenging than expected, for reasons I'll get into later.

Switches and typing sound

The IQUNIX Magnetic X Pro switches are by far some of the best HE switches I've tried when it comes to sound and feel. They're incredibly clacky — this is about the only board that I've come across that's as loud and clacky as the Rainy 75 and its HMX Violet switches. That said, the Magnetic X Pro switch is the only HE switch I've tested that has almost literally none of that top-out clatter that's ever-present on just about every HE switch around. They feature dust-proof stems, but that doesn't come with the usual scratchiness of a dust-proof stem. Instead, they're quite wobble-free, and they have a satisfying bottom-out sound, so they actually work quite well for typing, too. Typing test later...

Software customisation and gaming

The customisation software for the EV63 is a web driver that can be accessed in a Chromium browser, which is both a blessing and a curse, since if IQUNIX ever goes out of business, it'll be a challenge to ever set up or back up your keyboard's layout or firmware. I'd like to see the option for a local version. The UI is decently intuitive, although it doesn't have all the advanced remapping stuff I have access to on a lot of Keychron boards, for example. For gaming, though, the IQUNIX driver is well thought out. There are no major translation bungles, and everything was where I thought it would be.

The web driver gives you access to configure HE features like adjustable actuation, SOCD, RT, ModTap, DKS, and Toggle Key, but it also gives you access to macro recording, a host of RGB controls, and the ability to share your layouts and HE feature profiles with friends. The keyboard supports three onboard profiles, but you can also create up to 10 custom temporary profiles, which are stored in your browser cache and can be loaded into the keyboard's onboard profile slots with the click of a button. The driver has a useful key calibration feature, that allows for manual switch calibration — always do this with new HE boards, by the way — and it has a list of switches to choose from in the "Performance" tab, or you can use the Smart Switch Adaptation feature, which seems to detect different switch specs well enough.

I'm not a fast-paced FPS gamer. I'm just too old for that sort of stress on my heart. However, I did some due diligence and tested the lowest actuation distance to see if the keyboard registered any false positives, and I was surprised that it did not, although there were some double inputs on top-out at 0.1 mm with 0.01 mm RT enabled. I still don't recommend gaming at 0.1 mm actuation point, because that's silly, and you will get false positives when your hands are anywhere near the board. I was also able to verify that disabling NKRO was effective, and only 6 keys can be entered simultaneously if NKRO is disabled. This means it should play well with consoles.

Stabilisers

I've been pretty positive about the EV63 so far, but it's time to address the elephant in the room — the stabilisers. Man, are these some of the rattliest stabs I've ever used. Every single one rattles, and there's no reason it had to be this way. This was the same issue I had with the stabs on the EZ63 I reviewed for Notebookcheck last year sometime, and it took all of 15 minutes to fix with a plumber's tape mod. About the only redeeming quality of the stabilisers on the EV63 is that they're clip-in, so they're easy to remove and replace or mod. Fortunately, the EV63 is also compatible with screw-in stabs, which is a potential upgrade path if you're into modding.

Actually, the whole board is pretty mod-friendly, as the case even follows the standard 60% layout as the Wooting 60HE, meaning you could buy something like a Tofu case for the EV63 if you didn't like the raw aluminium or carbon fibre look.

Listen to the typing test linked above for a demo. The space bar is as abominable as it was on the EZ63 and as bad as the worst Keychron space bar stab I've used.

One last complaint

I mentioned before that I found it difficult to learn how to touch type on the EV63, and that's because of the compact 63-key layout that squishes the right shift and delete keys into the spaces next to the arrows. This hasn't been my biggest complaint about the layout, though. What throws me off is that the bottom row is slightly shifted to the left by around 0.25u. You'd think this wouldn't be a problem, given that I switch between row-staggered, ortholinear, and columnar-stagger boards all the time, but unfortunately, it seems as though it still trips me up, even after weeks on the EV63.