Labor of love with this one and recently posted it being newly painted. Was previously candy apple red. Spent about 4 years rebuilding the engine and transmission, new water pump, oil pump, resurfaced the original flywheel, new McLeod racing clutch, new starter, pertronix electronic ignition and added a dual bowl master cylinder with discs up front. Amongst many other changes/upgrades.

Why would I want to leave this behind you might ask? Got to drive a 2020 GT PP1. Boy was that an eye opener.

Would love some feedback from folks that dropped their classics to get a new model. Any regrets?

After 7 years or replacing everything on the car except the body panels and paint, it’s finally driving! Still have a ton of work to do on it.

Hi,

I recently inherited a Mustang from an Uncle. He used it often, it was loved, and taken care of here and there when he had time or money. I knew it would have some problems. I dont know.much about cars so any insight on this frame would help alot. What does something like this cost go fix? Is it just swapped out? Patched? The whole underbody ruined? I was under it all morning trying to clean it up to see the extent of the rust. Its really only the center holes and.up to 6 inches long Where it broke through everything else seems good. Enlighten me...?

Thanks!

Anyone in here using the Carb Cheater from Luke (ThunderHead289 on YouTube)? Just ordered one and was curious what people’s experience has been like.

I just put a new starter and solenoid in my 66 Mustang. The starter grinds sometimes like it is not fully engaging with the flywheel. Do I need to shim the starter? It is a 289 2v engine. Has anyone else tackled this problem. Any advice is appreciated.

I need to rewire all the wites going to it and cannot remember what its called to save my life.

I just discovered an issue with my 66 coupe I'm trying to diagnose. All headlights (front and back work). But when my headlights are on, my left blinker doesn't work, both the front and back left turn lights just stays solid while my right blinker works. When I turn my headlights off, my left blinker starts working. What could be causing this?

I’m assembling this 66 Mustang that I bought in pieces. This isn’t my first build, but this is the first one that had factory AC and I’m failing over here, haha.

Try as I might, I haven’t been able to find good reference for how this goes together. Also, am I missing one of the brackets for this?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom y’all can share.

Hey Everyone—I am new to classic car ownership and just got my first 1967 ford mustang coupe. I am looking to install some fire extinguishers in the car. I have been looking at element, but hoping I could get some suggestions on what kit I should buy. Ideally a mount for the seat or floor. Again, just need advice on what set up works best. Thank you!

Troubleshoot left turn light

I just discovered an issue with my 66 coupe I'm trying to diagnose. All headlights (front and back work). But when my headlights are on, my left blinker doesn't work, both the front and back left turn lights just stays solid while my right blinker works. When I turn my headlights off, my left blinker starts working. What could be causing this?

Recently purchased a 68 coupe it came without and radios or speakers was looking for advice on what to get there are option on cjponyparts but they all seem the same same goes for crutchfield

I'm in possession of a 1966 convertible, Wimbledon white with a black top, pony interior, factory a/c, 289, PS, PB. It was assembled in Dearborn.

Our family has had the car for all but the first 702 miles.

It has had a full respray and the engine, frontend and tranny were rebuilt years back with oem parts. It runs and drives beautifully. Top operates as it should.

I'm curious as to whether having all the bone stock, original engine, tranny, wheels, front end, interior, owners manual and related paperwork, etc. adds value versus a modified engine, tranny, body, etc

Bought this 65 about a year ago for $11,000. The interior is damn near perfect, the paint is about a 10 footer, rust under the paint at driver door corner and rear passenger wheel well. I was not looking for much of a project when I bought it, just wanted something simple to fix if I needed it but knew I needed a classic car. That’s what my brain said. My heart told be to completely redo everything suspension and steering so it doesn’t float all over the road anymore, so I did. Put 5 leaf leaf springs in the back with weld on traction bars cause I hated the look of the old bulky bolt ons. Put stiffer springs in the front, added 1” sway bar, new shocks all around, and replaced all the control arms and steering mechanisms. As I was finishing that up I added a 65mm TB just so it could breath a bit more, further investigation into the engine I found I had a blown head gasket, it had been hiding its symptoms from me before I started redoing the suspension but when I started it up after the new TB I figured it out. So instead of just getting the heads surfaced and slapping them back on, I ended up buying aluminum GT40 heads with roller rockers and thicker walled hardened pushrods. I WAS going to put a cam in it but that is a little more work and a lot more cash. I also didn’t want to get too rowdy with the engine because I know you always find a weak spot when building something, and I wanted to keep it reliable. Anyways just got it going two days ago and got an alignment done. Wow. This thing is a brand new car. The stiffer suspension is perfect, it rides like a new Cadillac and doesn’t float all over the road like it used to. The engine is performing great, after a slight mishaps with the intake manifold gasket sliding down when I installed the manifold and causing there to be an insane vacuum leak, it has been great. When I started working on the engine I saw the (TV) cable/ kickdown cable for the AOD trans was disconnected. In the past the transmission had slipped and bogged under power horribly so I thought it was toast. After driving it recently, nope, that TV cable was absolutely the problem and I could not be happier that I don’t have to completely replace the trans, I will probably get a rebuild for the clutch packs since it had been slipping for so long but other then that I can’t be happier. Went from owning a Fiero I bought when I was 14 and it being broken after every two weeks of driving it, to this amazing piece of engineering. I am not a car brand guy, but after working on this I’m definitely starting to lean towards the fords (at least the old ones). That was a bit longer than I anticipated.

Hi, I'm looking for the correct front crank seal for a automatic '67 inline 6 200 (currently leaking oil). But there are so many online and I have no idea which one is the right one. (I live in Canada just FYI)

I want to order the NATIONAL 7486S, but someone on the Ford smallsix forum says it won't fit...

Every time a fix something, something else seems to act up. But somehow I never stop loving this car

1969 coupe, candy apple red

I need headers for a 460 that would comfortably fit in a 71 mustang, does anyone have suggestions?