I just put a new starter and solenoid in my 66 Mustang. The starter grinds sometimes like it is not fully engaging with the flywheel. Do I need to shim the starter? It is a 289 2v engine. Has anyone else tackled this problem. Any advice is appreciated.

I need to rewire all the wites going to it and cannot remember what its called to save my life.

I just discovered an issue with my 66 coupe I'm trying to diagnose. All headlights (front and back work). But when my headlights are on, my left blinker doesn't work, both the front and back left turn lights just stays solid while my right blinker works. When I turn my headlights off, my left blinker starts working. What could be causing this?

I’m assembling this 66 Mustang that I bought in pieces. This isn’t my first build, but this is the first one that had factory AC and I’m failing over here, haha.

Try as I might, I haven’t been able to find good reference for how this goes together. Also, am I missing one of the brackets for this?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom y’all can share.

Hey Everyone—I am new to classic car ownership and just got my first 1967 ford mustang coupe. I am looking to install some fire extinguishers in the car. I have been looking at element, but hoping I could get some suggestions on what kit I should buy. Ideally a mount for the seat or floor. Again, just need advice on what set up works best. Thank you!

Troubleshoot left turn light

I just discovered an issue with my 66 coupe I'm trying to diagnose. All headlights (front and back work). But when my headlights are on, my left blinker doesn't work, both the front and back left turn lights just stays solid while my right blinker works. When I turn my headlights off, my left blinker starts working. What could be causing this?

Recently purchased a 68 coupe it came without and radios or speakers was looking for advice on what to get there are option on cjponyparts but they all seem the same same goes for crutchfield

I'm in possession of a 1966 convertible, Wimbledon white with a black top, pony interior, factory a/c, 289, PS, PB. It was assembled in Dearborn.

Our family has had the car for all but the first 702 miles.

It has had a full respray and the engine, frontend and tranny were rebuilt years back with oem parts. It runs and drives beautifully. Top operates as it should.

I'm curious as to whether having all the bone stock, original engine, tranny, wheels, front end, interior, owners manual and related paperwork, etc. adds value versus a modified engine, tranny, body, etc

Bought this 65 about a year ago for $11,000. The interior is damn near perfect, the paint is about a 10 footer, rust under the paint at driver door corner and rear passenger wheel well. I was not looking for much of a project when I bought it, just wanted something simple to fix if I needed it but knew I needed a classic car. That’s what my brain said. My heart told be to completely redo everything suspension and steering so it doesn’t float all over the road anymore, so I did. Put 5 leaf leaf springs in the back with weld on traction bars cause I hated the look of the old bulky bolt ons. Put stiffer springs in the front, added 1” sway bar, new shocks all around, and replaced all the control arms and steering mechanisms. As I was finishing that up I added a 65mm TB just so it could breath a bit more, further investigation into the engine I found I had a blown head gasket, it had been hiding its symptoms from me before I started redoing the suspension but when I started it up after the new TB I figured it out. So instead of just getting the heads surfaced and slapping them back on, I ended up buying aluminum GT40 heads with roller rockers and thicker walled hardened pushrods. I WAS going to put a cam in it but that is a little more work and a lot more cash. I also didn’t want to get too rowdy with the engine because I know you always find a weak spot when building something, and I wanted to keep it reliable. Anyways just got it going two days ago and got an alignment done. Wow. This thing is a brand new car. The stiffer suspension is perfect, it rides like a new Cadillac and doesn’t float all over the road like it used to. The engine is performing great, after a slight mishaps with the intake manifold gasket sliding down when I installed the manifold and causing there to be an insane vacuum leak, it has been great. When I started working on the engine I saw the (TV) cable/ kickdown cable for the AOD trans was disconnected. In the past the transmission had slipped and bogged under power horribly so I thought it was toast. After driving it recently, nope, that TV cable was absolutely the problem and I could not be happier that I don’t have to completely replace the trans, I will probably get a rebuild for the clutch packs since it had been slipping for so long but other then that I can’t be happier. Went from owning a Fiero I bought when I was 14 and it being broken after every two weeks of driving it, to this amazing piece of engineering. I am not a car brand guy, but after working on this I’m definitely starting to lean towards the fords (at least the old ones). That was a bit longer than I anticipated.

Hi, I'm looking for the correct front crank seal for a automatic '67 inline 6 200 (currently leaking oil). But there are so many online and I have no idea which one is the right one. (I live in Canada just FYI)

I want to order the NATIONAL 7486S, but someone on the Ford smallsix forum says it won't fit...

Every time a fix something, something else seems to act up. But somehow I never stop loving this car

1969 coupe, candy apple red

I need headers for a 460 that would comfortably fit in a 71 mustang, does anyone have suggestions?

Hey y'all,

Looking to finally add some cup holders and an armrest to my '69 Coupe (standard carpet floor, no factory console). I stumbled across the Scott Drake "Humphugger" console that supposedly just wedges itself between the front bucket seats without any drilling.

To be honest, looking at the stock product photos online, the molded hump on the bottom looks completely backward and kind of goofy. I've been told it’s just the exact inverse shape of the transmission tunnel drop-off and that the seats pinch it into place, but I want some real-world feedback before I pull the trigger.

For those of you who actually have one:

• How’s the fit? Does it actually stay put, or am I going to launch my drinkl the first time I step on the gas?
• Is it sturdy? Does it actually hold a standard Yeti sized cup or water bottle without tipping over?
• Color matching: My wife thinks the black version will look sharp to balance out my interior (plus, I can always dye/paint it burgundy later if I change my mind). If you painted yours, how did it hold up?

Appreciate any insight or pics of it installed in your cars. Thanks!

Link for reference: Scott Drake Humphugger Console on JEGS

This is my father in laws car. His wheel rubs like crazy on the passenger side. Is completely a good 1.5” more forward than the drivers side. Is there an alignment or adjustment that can be made or is this possible frame damage?

Update: thanks everyone for the input. I’m not at their home anymore but from what I remember both strut rods had about the same amount of thread at the end showing probably a good 1.125”. I’ll take a look next time I’m down, I have a feeling the bushings are pretty old too so a replacement might be due and then an alignment. Also it’s a 67’ so I miss spoke, but good news is it has the adjustable rods 👍🏼

I started restoring this 1965 mustang after 2 long years. I never worked on a car before and had to teach myself how to put it back together. Started as a shell in July 2024 and took it to my first car show today.

Thoughts on pricing?

Ad is here for more photos and video

https://www.classiccarproservices.com/product-page/1967-ford-mustang-1

But it’s pretty much my dream car..

5 speed manual
Front bench

Full features from ad:
1967 Ford Mustang

Rebuilt 302 V8
4-Barrel Carburetor
Aluminum Radiator with Electric Fan
New Tremec 5spd Manual Transmission
New 4 Wheel Disc Brakes
New Dual Exhaust
Rebuilt Rear End
Electronic Ignition
Upgraded Wheels
Rare factory bench seat car with older restored fabric upholstery. Interior is all there and serviceable but showing its age. Receipts included going back to 1974!

Headlights, taillights, turn signals and gauges all work.
Clean Title

Will probably add:
Dual master cylinder if it’s not there already
Update upholstery but I kinda like it
Add 3 point seatbelt and headrest

Hello everyone I’m back got another mustang !! I need your help! How do I put this stupid glove box back in. I know this is simple but i have been struggling with it. Here’s my set up right now do I need to remove something before installing !! Am I missing a bolt or screw that holds this in ??? Do these three screws in the bottom go to to it !? It goes in just fine but the door hinge sticks out not allowing me to completely get it in there no matter how hard i finagle. Any help would be appreciated for me 🙏

I have the opportunity to get this Mustang 1971. I dont know what would be a fair price to get it. The seller and I dont talk yet about numbers, but I would like to get an idea to be ready in the negotiation.

The car runs great !!

Thank you guys..