I increased my speed how’s it look how

Im having issues with after opening the throttle my idle is bad and this is how much fuel goes in when I open the throttle is it too much (ford 302 edelbrock 1406)

Any tips?

I am rebuilding my Engine.
I got vortec heads out of an l31 Engine with the Numbers 12558062
And a comp cam 12-206-3
Will this combination work (valve spring pressure and max valve Lift
The cam is used can i use new hydraulic Lifters?
Wich Brand is recommended

Thank you for your help

Best Regards from Germany

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my 79' 351m and converting to 400. I'm hoping to get it finished up within the next two weeks or so. I have a comp cams cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods and timing set for it. I also have Keith black hypereutectic piston heads with mahle plasma moly piston rings. I know rotella is formulated for diesels, but it's high in zddp, so it's better for flat tappet cams and lifters. Just looking for good somewhat heavier oil for it after i get it broke in.

Had a cam follower fail on a VW TDI (CJAA) and have to replace the camshafts due to wear and spalling. I pulled the cam carrier and found that the bearing surfaces are scored. Most is barely enough to feel with a thumbnail, but one is deep enough to press my thumbnail into.

I’ve got to try to contact local shops tomorrow to see if they can machine it or if I’m going to beed a new head, but I’ve been seeing people say it is normal and to just run it. That it happens with almost every engine, that the cam will wear into the bearing surfaces because it is harder than the head.

Trying to add pictures, but I’m not seeing how with the update.

[EDIT:] Sorry, got lost trying to add pictures, didn’t ask the question.

Is scoring normal on heads that don’t run bearings? If so, what is too much?

Blew a head gasket on Saturday. Had it back together in 4 hours, running the next morning after lash and RTV cure time

Clevelands are cool

I got the head back on and reinstalled all of the six injector fuel lines, but the fuel line on the back of the head doesn't seem to line up with where I think it's supposed to go. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong during reassembly? Has anyone run into this before?

I'm in the process of rebuilding an A series engine for my 1975 Leyland mini clubman.

The engine was completely seized when I bought the car so I'm rebuilding it. This is my first engine build so I'm learning as I go.

The crankshaft has some crude looking work on it. How should I best proceed? Is the crankshaft usable?

Thank you.

Is it normal for the bolt in first picture to bottom out before seating? The other side is fully seated and Injector looks all the way in.

Hello, I'll try to keep it quick:

I'm looking to insert a temperature and pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold of a turbo (BMW G82 M4) and have found the following solutions:

- Welding a fitting onto the manifold: my welder doesn't like welding cast iron so out of the equation

- drilling a hole and using a pressfitting from stainless steel and a stainless steel sealing ring (before that, the manifold goes into a CNC machine to make a nice surface for it to make a nice seal)

I've read that some people use NPT threads, a few others use metric if there is a nice surface for it to seal. I'd like to use M8x1 threads for better sealing and since the press fittings only come in fine thread sizes.

The hole gets a slight chamfer and the sealing ring gets basically pressed in slightly from the applied torque to create a mechanical seal. On the threads I apply some high-temp ceramic paste to prevent the stainless steel fitting the the cast iron from welding to each other since I'm expecting temperatures of about 1100°C (2000°F).

Does anybody have different ideas?

I've got a crosshatch gauge coming in the mail but I got antsy and decided to try out the new toy... also, how are you guys getting such clean "breaks" in the lines of the crosshatch? Mine are like big bows. Thanks everyone, sorry for another honing question

I've been doing a deep dive on this swap for about a week now and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger on buying the two vehicles.

The plan is to swap a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (from a 300SD) into a 3rd gen Camaro. This will eventually become my daily driver, so I'm aiming for reliability first and fuel economy second. I know this won't be a bolt-in swap and I'm expecting to do fabrication work.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Wiring
From what I've researched so far, it seems like the best approach is to leave the Camaro's factory fuse box in place for the body electronics (lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and build a separate engine fuse/relay box for the diesel in the engine bay. The two systems would only be connected by a few signal wires (ignition, start, gauges, reverse lights, etc.).

Is this the right way to do it? If you've done something similar, how did you wire it?

2. Fitment
I know I'll need to fabricate engine mounts and probably a transmission crossmember, but what other fitment issues should I expect? Things like:

• Oil pan/steering clearance?
• Firewall clearance?
• Cooling system?
• Driveshaft?
• Exhaust routing?
• Suspension upgrades because of the engine weight?

I'm trying to make a complete list before I start buying parts.

If you've done an OM617 swap into any vehicle—or a diesel swap into a 3rd gen Camaro—I would really appreciate any advice, lessons learned, or things you wish you'd known before starting.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 1991 ltd crown victoria that I carburetor swapped (the 5.0 302) and got it to run good but after driving for a little or even reving the engine while not driving when it returns to idle after the rev or acceleration it idles really bad almost wanting to die and if I turn it off and back on again it runs fine until I rev it or drive a little again and I have good fuel pressure going to my carburetor and im pretty sure good spark and timing if anyone has any ideas please share them!

Didn’t notice till I removed the cam bearing tool should I file down the lip or ordering a new one?

Our 460 for a 68 f100 we’re building. It’s got ported dove heads, flat top pistons, a Howard’s .600/.594 split duration roller cam, and a edelbrock vrs-1450 850cfm carburetor.

Was idling fine, only about 30 minutes of runtime on it when I heard a gravelly scratching. Those black chunks on the magnet are rtv from the drain plug, but there is a bit of metal. Should I pull the motor or send it?

(Don't mind the header tick on Cyl #4). Recently posted the first oil change on this car, didn't have a concerning amount of glitter in the oil, however I'm getting this gravelly grinding noise from the back of my engine. Almost sounds like a rock in my bellhousing. No noise when turning over and starts after it's been idling for about 30 seconds. Any thoughts on the cause?

I have this old early 80’s suburban sitting in my yard, and I gotta tear the motor apart to reseal all the cracks and crevices. So my initial thought was, I’m gonna put some nice rocker roller arms in, but I’m torn between getting all the parts to replace the entire top end of the motor, or just through some nice rockers and call it a day

Hi. Anyone has an engine manual for 2022 Chevrolet Tailblazer Engine Manual. Im looking to rebuild the engine

Finally got cylinder head back from the machine shop and they took out the fuel injectors and gave me a bunch of loose pieces. I can't figure out where these 3 pieces go. Does anyone know where these pieces go? 5.9 cummins 24 valve.

This was an image about 100 miles ago. Engine blew a head gasket and I got it all cleaned up and running great with zero leaks. Has a small piston slap but It ran great.

Also engine has 200k something miles. Its an original 305 on an 83 c10.

Didn't trash the block even though I knew it was trash because I'm on a budget. (Look at the cylinder to piston clearance, you can see the rings haha, it also moves pretty bad with your thumbs. I just used thicker oil)

Now, It's either a carburetor problem which I'm trying to lean towards cause its a used edelbrock and it sat for a good minute or a ring went which I don't doubt either. I have an extra block with pistons if I need though. I'm not at home to do a compression test. However, its not burning oil it just has a dead cylinder or two and has great oil pressure. It was all of a sudden while backing out.

What do you guys think it could be? I'll update yall when I figure it out.

EDIT:

Turned out to be a pre-failing weak ICM. Quit starting completely when I got home. Bought one from OReilys and its fine.

I have 550 lift springs for my Ls but I’m looking at a cam with 552 lift should it be fine or should I upgrade to better springs?