Still unreal when I see the pictures from 3 years ago when I bought it

Got the engine going well. Rebuilt the original brake system. Good lord...manual brakes suck. You have to really stomp that sucker to make it stop. Think I will have to do a power disc brake conversion if I want to take this onto the street.

The Dynaflow leaks like crazy... Will probably go ahead and pull the engine/trans and put in fresh gaskets. Engine is great though. No leaks and runs like a top.

its a work in progress. mostly looking to design things around the big risk i took with the front bumper.

planning to wrap the mirrors in black vinyl, maybe the windshield surround as well.

mazdaspeed nc rear bumper is my best idea to "match" the front and rear better.

just put the maxton designs side skirts on this weekend to try to carry the black trim around the entire car.

So smol.

So slow, while feeling fast as shit

I feel like I'm driving a Ferrari (on 3 cyl), I cannot explain it...it's so god damn fun driving a toaster around.

Gtx2867, jmf manifold, ported head, everything in-between. Also a Liberty Gears straight cut dog box went in over winter. So excited to drive it.

Not as perfect as it looks in pictures, but still clean nonetheless. Needs all the typical W123 stuff. Speedo/odo don’t work, dash is cracked, etc.

I'm not expecting a miracle... Getting the finish watertight is the main goal. I chose '76 International Harvester Glacier Blue with a white top.

Long story short the engine was filled with fire extinguisher powder and water at one point. I've since flushed the engine multiple times and put roughly 1000 miles on this filter. I'm wondering what yall think of the filter? This is off a 1985 corvette with 100k on the motor.

TLDR- please tell me if the metal flakes are normal or something I need to be concerned about

Need to clean a 56' Nomad and I can't find anyplace closer than Ohio.

Really don't want to go to Ohio - does anyone know of a place?

Hi everybody!
I recently bought my 128 and decided to replace the timing belt as it's pretty old and that required removing the accessory pulley as it prevents the belt from coming out.

The pulleys are retained with a 36mm nut that threads on the crank snout, but the problem is that the nut was deformed by someone who couldn't be bothered to buy the right socket and used a chisel instead, so I had to do the same.
Here is where I prove I'm an idiot: I never used this technique before, and I must have hit the chisel too hard because even after using mild heat and wd40 all I accomplished was destroy the nut without it even moving.

I thought about using a nut splitter but even if I could fit it (the nut is slightly recessed in the pulley), I can't find one that size that isn't an expensive and huge hydraulic one.
Oxy torch is also not an option as I'm currently working in a parking lot; die grinder might cut through but I don't have the budget or the outlet for it.

Could a small (8W, 35k RPM) cordless rotary tool cut enough of it out to split it with a chisel?
Would using light taps with the chisel and patience get it to move or should it have moved by now?

I know I could take it to a real mechanic but I'm trying to learn how to fix my own screw ups

Thanks

Well tonight was a fail to start the car oh well this weekend i think ill head over and get something figured out with that then start with the engine and transmission mounts and afterwards i am going to make the coolant pipes work

I think i just have a few wires mixed around

For about a year I was using Adam's Detail Spray as my go-to. On paint it's genuinely solid, no complaints. The problem showed up every time I used it on the wheels. I have machined face rims and the finish I was getting was inconsistent at best. Streaks on some sections, a film on others, and within an hour the wheels were pulling in brake dust faster than before I'd detailed them. I tried adjusting how much product I used and it helped with the streaking but the residue issue didn't go away.

Tried a couple of Chemical Guys options too. Same story. Great on clear coat, unreliable on anything else. After enough frustration I started looking specifically for something built for multiple surfaces rather than a paint product that claimed to handle other things. That search led me to AllJack Detail Spray. Minimal formula, no heavy conditioning agents, works on paint, rims, and tires without the residue problem I kept running into. The machined face finish comes out clean and stays that way longer than with anything else I've used. Water beading on paint is solid without being a heavy coating product. At $39.99 it's in the same range as what I was already spending. If wheel residue is your frustration with your current spray this is worth looking at.

Hey all, I'm looking to get a first proper project car.

I already own a c5 corvette which I do all the maintenance for and plan to do some work on, but I don't want to make it my project. I want to keep it as a viable fun daily.

Soon I'll have a proper shop so I've started to consider getting something that I can have purely to tinker with. I want something that's most of all cheap, but I'd also like tons of mod options and for it to be smaller and lighter weight.

Obviously I could go for a Miata, and a close friend of mine has a built NA so they'd be a good resource, but I'm open to other options, I'm considering a 240sx as I've always loved the look of them.

I’m getting close to wrapping up the design of a crosskart (buggy). It will be powered by a 125 hp triumph 1050 triple.

I’m not sure if anyone has experience or is qualified, but I’m planning on using 1.25” x .120 wall DOM tube for the main size.

Further bracing is still need at this stage in the design, but do you think that this is a suitable material dimension for this project? The final kart weight will probably be around 600-800 lbs.

Based off my research it seems more than enough as long as the design is smart, but I just wanted to gain advice.

Over the weekend, I finally got to dig down a bit in my 2001 Trans Am and changeout something that I have disliked since I have owned this car. My brother u/mrthursdayn1ght came over and knocked it out fairly quick.

Long story short, I am trying to build out the car I wish I could have owned when I was in High School.

The original setup on this car was 1-3/4" Pacesetter headers into a "Custom" catless y-pipe. The Y-pipe had QTP cutouts on BOTH sides and then went into a small/off the shelf catalytic converter. Worst part was going into a terrible catback from Magnaflow with the horrendous (IMO) truck tips.

I replaced the setup with a fresh set of Speed Engineering Long tubes, ORY and my personal favorite the Borla S-Type catback with Intercooled tips.

The sound and look is exactly as I remembered it and I love it.

I have some photos of the adventure. Lots more to come as I bring the car around to what I want it to look like!

Photos start with the new stuff and you can see the junk I removed from the car.

Update on the 6x6, got the new leafsprings in but I’m thinking about changing the equalizer setup to support more weight. If I cut a slot for the shackles in the equalizer (red marking) would this be a safe way to distribute the expanding force of the leafsprings so the bolt doesn’t shear when both axels go up/down? Or should I just mount both to the bolt holes like I have them already in the pics?
And no the red marking is not the exact outline.

After a whole lot of cutting, welding and cutting and welding again I finally got the engine on mounts and the gearbox aligned in the newly made tunnel. Thought I’d share some photos of the journey so far. It’s a 1976 ford capri mk2 with a Chevy 305 rebuilt engine and a bmw gs6-53dz 6 speed gearbox.

My dad still drives this 2007 Toyota Crown almost every day.

It has been incredibly reliable, and honestly, he has no interest in buying a newer car. The engine still runs smoothly, and everything important still works.

The only thing that really feels outdated is the technology. No CarPlay, no backup camera, no modern infotainment, and definitely no voice assistant.

Instead of replacing it, I've been thinking about giving it a few modern upgrades while keeping everything else original.

If this were your car, what's the first upgrade you'd make?

I wanted this video to feel like stepping back into the ’90s.

PlayStation memories, VHS tapes, old magazines, iconic brands… and then one of the greatest homologation cars ever built: the Ford Escort Cosworth.

No talking. Just pure turbo sound, winding roads, and a drive that feels like a childhood dream brought back to life.

Hope you enjoy it.

I’m curious about how you guys track all of the maintenance, mods, restorations, receipts, etc., and whether having complete records of everything is really that important for resale?

I have both digital and physical records of things, but it’s been a little difficult to keep track of everything.

About to pick up a reatta in a couple months. Already have a deal lined up. Anybody have any buyers advice for these cars?

Before comments are made too, I am not worried about electrical issues and stuff. This will be my 5th project car and by far the least intensive since it doesn't involve any built engines, engine swaps, or rust issues like my 3000gt, brat, probe, and stealth had.

I've been doing a deep dive on this swap for about a week now and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger on buying the two vehicles.

The plan is to swap a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (from a 300SD) into a 3rd gen Camaro. This will eventually become my daily driver, so I'm aiming for reliability first and fuel economy second. I know this won't be a bolt-in swap and I'm expecting to do fabrication work.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Wiring
From what I've researched so far, it seems like the best approach is to leave the Camaro's factory fuse box in place for the body electronics (lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and build a separate engine fuse/relay box for the diesel in the engine bay. The two systems would only be connected by a few signal wires (ignition, start, gauges, reverse lights, etc.).

Is this the right way to do it? If you've done something similar, how did you wire it?

2. Fitment
I know I'll need to fabricate engine mounts and probably a transmission crossmember, but what other fitment issues should I expect? Things like:

• Oil pan/steering clearance?
• Firewall clearance?
• Cooling system?
• Driveshaft?
• Exhaust routing?
• Suspension upgrades because of the engine weight?

I'm trying to make a complete list before I start buying parts.

If you've done an OM617 swap into any vehicle—or a diesel swap into a 3rd gen Camaro—I would really appreciate any advice, lessons learned, or things you wish you'd known before starting.

Thanks in advance!

Planning on pulling my first engine to rebuild my 1.6

Gonna do all top and bottom gaskets, timing belt, water pump, clutch, and deep clean both the block and the engine bay/undercarriage

If anyone has any tips on what else I should replace or check while it's out, any special tools I might need etc. I would be grateful 🙏