Any tips?

Blew a head gasket on Saturday. Had it back together in 4 hours, running the next morning after lash and RTV cure time

Clevelands are cool

I've got a crosshatch gauge coming in the mail but I got antsy and decided to try out the new toy... also, how are you guys getting such clean "breaks" in the lines of the crosshatch? Mine are like big bows. Thanks everyone, sorry for another honing question

I increased my speed how’s it look how

Im having issues with after opening the throttle my idle is bad and this is how much fuel goes in when I open the throttle is it too much (ford 302 edelbrock 1406)

I'm in the process of rebuilding an A series engine for my 1975 Leyland mini clubman.

The engine was completely seized when I bought the car so I'm rebuilding it. This is my first engine build so I'm learning as I go.

The crankshaft has some crude looking work on it. How should I best proceed? Is the crankshaft usable?

Thank you.

I've been doing a deep dive on this swap for about a week now and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger on buying the two vehicles.

The plan is to swap a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (from a 300SD) into a 3rd gen Camaro. This will eventually become my daily driver, so I'm aiming for reliability first and fuel economy second. I know this won't be a bolt-in swap and I'm expecting to do fabrication work.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Wiring
From what I've researched so far, it seems like the best approach is to leave the Camaro's factory fuse box in place for the body electronics (lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and build a separate engine fuse/relay box for the diesel in the engine bay. The two systems would only be connected by a few signal wires (ignition, start, gauges, reverse lights, etc.).

Is this the right way to do it? If you've done something similar, how did you wire it?

2. Fitment
I know I'll need to fabricate engine mounts and probably a transmission crossmember, but what other fitment issues should I expect? Things like:

• Oil pan/steering clearance?
• Firewall clearance?
• Cooling system?
• Driveshaft?
• Exhaust routing?
• Suspension upgrades because of the engine weight?

I'm trying to make a complete list before I start buying parts.

If you've done an OM617 swap into any vehicle—or a diesel swap into a 3rd gen Camaro—I would really appreciate any advice, lessons learned, or things you wish you'd known before starting.

Thanks in advance!

I’m guessing this logo on the BLOCK means it’s never been resurfaced?

I am rebuilding my Engine.
I got vortec heads out of an l31 Engine with the Numbers 12558062
And a comp cam 12-206-3
Will this combination work (valve spring pressure and max valve Lift
The cam is used can i use new hydraulic Lifters?
Wich Brand is recommended

Thank you for your help

Best Regards from Germany

So here recently I did a cam swap on my 96 silverado, it's got the 350 vortec in it. Long story short got it all put in good and everything back right (hopefully), i go to start it up, no beans except a bit of spudering, i figured it was a timing issue, went to tdc compression on #1, distributor is in the right spot. So now im here, I will mention the cam changes the firing order and i had to change the valvesprings, locks, and retainer out to accommodatefor the cam. Though it coughed some it also fired out the intake some. Any advice is very appreciated.

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my 79' 351m and converting to 400. I'm hoping to get it finished up within the next two weeks or so. I have a comp cams cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods and timing set for it. I also have Keith black hypereutectic piston heads with mahle plasma moly piston rings. I know rotella is formulated for diesels, but it's high in zddp, so it's better for flat tappet cams and lifters. Just looking for good somewhat heavier oil for it after i get it broke in.

Had a cam follower fail on a VW TDI (CJAA) and have to replace the camshafts due to wear and spalling. I pulled the cam carrier and found that the bearing surfaces are scored. Most is barely enough to feel with a thumbnail, but one is deep enough to press my thumbnail into.

I’ve got to try to contact local shops tomorrow to see if they can machine it or if I’m going to beed a new head, but I’ve been seeing people say it is normal and to just run it. That it happens with almost every engine, that the cam will wear into the bearing surfaces because it is harder than the head.

Trying to add pictures, but I’m not seeing how with the update.

[EDIT:] Sorry, got lost trying to add pictures, didn’t ask the question.

Is scoring normal on heads that don’t run bearings? If so, what is too much?

Hello, I'll try to keep it quick:

I'm looking to insert a temperature and pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold of a turbo (BMW G82 M4) and have found the following solutions:

- Welding a fitting onto the manifold: my welder doesn't like welding cast iron so out of the equation

- drilling a hole and using a pressfitting from stainless steel and a stainless steel sealing ring (before that, the manifold goes into a CNC machine to make a nice surface for it to make a nice seal)

I've read that some people use NPT threads, a few others use metric if there is a nice surface for it to seal. I'd like to use M8x1 threads for better sealing and since the press fittings only come in fine thread sizes.

The hole gets a slight chamfer and the sealing ring gets basically pressed in slightly from the applied torque to create a mechanical seal. On the threads I apply some high-temp ceramic paste to prevent the stainless steel fitting the the cast iron from welding to each other since I'm expecting temperatures of about 1100°C (2000°F).

Does anybody have different ideas?

I have a 1991 ltd crown victoria that I carburetor swapped (the 5.0 302) and got it to run good but after driving for a little or even reving the engine while not driving when it returns to idle after the rev or acceleration it idles really bad almost wanting to die and if I turn it off and back on again it runs fine until I rev it or drive a little again and I have good fuel pressure going to my carburetor and im pretty sure good spark and timing if anyone has any ideas please share them!

I got the head back on and reinstalled all of the six injector fuel lines, but the fuel line on the back of the head doesn't seem to line up with where I think it's supposed to go. Is this normal, or did I do something wrong during reassembly? Has anyone run into this before?