Had it for about 7 months. No issues. LOVE IT!

My cousin has a 2015 Chevy Malibu, and we're trying to figure out what to do next.

A few months ago, the car started having a bunch of strange electrical problems:

* "Service Power Steering" warning

* Power steering would suddenly stop working for a moment

* Dashboard lights and gauges would flicker

* Engine would sometimes shut off

* Door locks would randomly unlock and relock

* Multiple warning lights and transmission communication codes would appear

The transmission itself always shifted and drove normally, despite the transmission connection/communication code.

We eventually discovered that disabling the automatic stop/start system with an aftermarket bypass cord completely eliminated all of the problems. The car ran perfectly for about four months with the bypass installed.

Then today, the exact same electrical problems returned, even with the bypass cord still installed.

We've already ordered another bypass cord in case the first one has failed, but we're not convinced that's the actual root cause anymore.

Before all of this, we also had the steering control module replaced after a repair shop diagnosed it as the problem. The repair cost about $2,000, but the exact same symptoms came back just a few days later, so replacing that module clearly didn't solve the issue.

The battery and alternator have both been checked and were reported to be good.

We've also contacted a couple of auto electrical shops, but they told us this is the kind of problem that usually needs to be diagnosed by a Chevrolet dealer because it likely involves multiple control modules or the vehicle's communication network.

My questions are:

* Has anyone seen a 2015 Malibu do this before?

* Could the automatic stop/start system or one of its modules be causing these intermittent electrical failures?

* Could a loose ground, damaged wiring harness, or failing Body Control Module (BCM) cause all of these symptoms?

* Could this be a CAN bus communication issue rather than a bad steering component?

* Has anyone seen an aftermarket auto stop/start bypass work temporarily but eventually stop masking the underlying problem?

We're trying to decide whether it's worth taking it straight to the Chevy dealer at this point instead of continuing to replace parts.

Any advice from mechanics or anyone who's dealt with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

My question is I guess is it worth it to fix? I paid about 4k for the car when I bought this 07 suburban LTZ its been great besides a lifter getting stuck and going the cheap route of replacing one lifter and tuning the DOD out. I'm sitting at about 160k on the dash so should I spend the 1500 to get the seals replaced? 5.3 vortec with compression around 145 per cylinder.

I have a 2021 Chevrolet ACTIV trailblazer. Bought it new. About a month ago my check engine light comes on. Car is driving normally. I stop by an auto zone and they pull my codes for me. There are a lot, maybe a dozen. I make an appointment at the Chevy dealership closest to me for the next day.

That evening I needed to move my car out of the driveway for garbage pickup, noticed the check engine light is off. Okay, weird, still taking it into the dealership. Next morning get into my car, check engine light comes on and also low power mode warning comes on. I turn the car off, crank it again and the check engine light goes off and no low power mode warning. Okay, dealership is two miles away. I drive it there. It drives normally.

Fast forward four days later, they can find nothing wrong but they tell me I need a new battery. I thought that was weird, my battery was like only a year and a half old. (I had to replace battery and alternator at around 60,000 miles). So, I leave dealership with new battery and a new set of back brake pads I had been talked into, and the check engine light off. $1200.

Next day check engine light is back on. I immediately drive it back to dealership. They keep it for seven days trying to find the problem. Come back finally and tell me they suspect rodent damage in the wiring harness and it will be a four hour $800 diagnostic fee just to try to find the problem, with no guarantee they will. I decline not only because of the $800 fee, but at this point I have decided this dealership is shady af and I’m taking my car somewhere else.

Do some research and find an independent garage with amazing reviews about people with electrical problems and I take it there. The owner of the shop comes out, and I give him the printout of my codes the dealership had pulled. He decides none of these codes relate to one another and he thinks I have water damage from my sunroof drain being clogged, and it’s damaged modules somewhere under my floor in the car, probably under the drivers seat. So I let him do his thing, and he takes the interior carpet and seats out of my car to see if there is water damage.

Fast forward two weeks later, he says he has found light water damage but cannot find the source of the leak. His last message said that they are putting the interior of the car back together and I can pick it back up, apologizing that they couldn’t find what was wrong with it.

So, I will be going to pick up my car, probably with the check engine light still on and me still nervous as hell to drive it more than a few miles at a time back and forth to work. Rideshare has been killing my wallet since this has happened and I’ve put out what is serious money for me now and the car still has some sort of issue. It has about 88,000 miles and of course I just paid my car off this year. Besides the alternator issue that happened a while ago, the car has run great.

Im a single gal and money is tight. I’d really like to not have another car payment. I’m looking for advice of any kind from anyone that may have an idea of what I should do or where I should go. I don’t want to take it back to the original dealership if possible because per online reviews, they’ve got some shady practices in their sales and service dept also.

I’ve uploaded a pic of the codes in case anyone can decipher what may be going on. I really appreciate anyone’s guidance or help that may have experience with this. Thanks Reddit!

I have a 2018 Chevy traverse rs with 125,000 miles on it. I was driving and then all of a sudden my rpm started to go up and down, then came the check engine light. Code reader said I needed a body value replacement and solenoid one and five stuck off. The dealership told me I need a new transmission saying there is metal findings in fluid and gave me a quote of $10,000. Any suggestions? I know this is an issue a lot of people are facing with the same suv. I still owe $8,000 on it.

I'm in the process of purchasing a new car and am currently considering a 2021 Chevy Spark 1LT with almost 85k miles on it for just over $10k. I need a reliable car with good gas mileage mostly to help me get to and from work (1 hour commute). I've never had a car this small before but the mileage seems good and the title is clean. Would you recommend this car? Is there anything I should be aware of? I like the car but I think I'm just second guessing myself.

Yes I’m dumb enough to ask this question and yes I waited for Reddit to tell me what to do before trying it myself

i have an 04 colorado 3.5 it’s making a pretty bad sound can anyone help me diagnose this?

I have a TBI setup with modified wiring harness ready to go. All I need is a fuel pump. What psi pump do i need?

Im not sure what trim level it was I was very young but thw truck was totaled out in 2014 and I only have 3 photos of the truck and im trying to find a photo of it or a photo of the same paint to get an idea on how im gonna paint my 1990 S10 project.

I think it was a Regency package it had stripes on the hood and the louvers on the extended cab window

Have a 2018 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.3L that is going into limp mode and throwing a TCM error. First transmission place I went to recommended rebuilding it for $6k, using a billet torque converter on the rebuild to prevent it from happening again... I'm going to get a second opinion from another transmission service, but in the mean time wanted to ask if anyone can give any feedback on if these billet torque converters will fix this Tahoe's transmission problems for the long haul? This happened at 125K miles, and we had transmission fluid changes about every 40K miles. I expect more out of a transmission, and if this billet torque converter is a proven solution I'll consider keeping the Tahoe. If not, I'm likely trading it in for something more reliable like a Nissan Armada... We use the Tahoe for towing our boat a few times a year as well, and it's a fairly long distance. If I had known you were recommended to avoid towing things with a Tahoe transmission, I might as well have bought a minivan

Also for the lifter issues, he recommended to put in a GM AFM/DFM Disabler ... is this what this forum recommends as well, to simply force the vehicle to stay in 8 cylinder mode to prevent lifter wear? Thanks in advance for any feedback

See attached video for noise. This rattling sound started a few weeks ago and has been driving me absolutely insane. I’ve tightened the license plate down so it not that as many things have suggested. I believe it’s something to do with the plastic panels/something underneath. Does anyone have any idea what it is? I obviously can’t get back there to totally pinpoint it.

Do yall think this is a good reliable vehicle to buy??
It’s a 2002 trailblazer , two owner, and she says it was driven by an elderly couples , she has the price as 5700 OBO

What do yall think?

UPDATE: She told me to come look at it the next day, I told her I was coming to buy and then I never got a response the next day, she never opened my marketplace messages but the vehicle is still up for sale, so we will see..

My truck came with manual seats and no storage center console. I was able to get my hands on heated and electric adjustable seats as well as the console that has storage in it. My issue is I've got the seats installed but the adjustment of the seats don't work.

Can anyone give me advice about how to go about making this work?

Hi!
I got a friend with a Orlando which has the Problem that it’s charging with 15,6V at peak. The Generator and Voltage Sensor are new. Has anybody an idea what can be the problem?

My battery in my 2019 Malibu was dying and my rear brakes were really bad so I wasn’t driving my car for about 4 days.

My dad knows someone who knows how to do brakes so he and his friend boosted my battery and drove it to my dad’s house. The next morning they changed my brakes and replaced my battery and I picked it up in the afternoon.

Keep in mind it was extremely hot the past couple weeks, but especially this week that I wasn’t driving my car. When I picked my car up I looked at the temp and couldn’t see it and thought it was a glare until I realized that it was in fact just blacked out. I thought maybe it was a visual glitch, so I shut the car off and restarted it and still there. Connected CarPlay and confirmed it is damaged.

My question is, does this look like heat damage or physical damage? Just the lcd is damaged and not the screen itself.

Edit: can anyone answer if this can expand? It’s hardly noticeable unless I’m connected to CarPlay which I don’t use to often

Your main reason, and what does chevy has that competitors doesnt?

Have a good Sunday

Edit: y'all have brilliant reasonable answers. Thank you

I just bought a Chevy Impala and was curious to see what people think of this year, make, and model. The person I bought it from took great care of it and regularly changed the oil and recently replaced the tires, breaks, and rotors all the way around. The previous owner said they haven’t had any issues with it yet but since the mileage is a little high I want to be preventative and make sure there isn’t anything I’m missing. What do I need to know about this car?

Every day driver. Head turner.

I have a 2024 2500HD Custom and want the functionality of my past truck. Is it possible to get a volume and skip panel added? Is that possible or is there not wiring. I thought I saw a video of them replacing the panel cause there was wiring but I cannot find it now. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Is it common for dealers to not budge on MSRP for custom orders? (Traverse LT - we want the 8 passenger version) Feels like i'm being penalized $5000 because they don't want to give the same discount as the same models on the lot. I feel like they should be more than happy to provide the same discount because the car wont be sitting on their lot at all, off the truck out the door, they get another sale on the books. I was all ready to put down a deposit until they wouldn't move at all on MSRP.

Two time Camaro owner 2014, 2017 and here is my official protest. You make it a four door and I’m out. I was excited to hear it was coming back and this deflated me. The only Chevy sports car that will exist at that point is the corvette. I don’t want piped in fake audio, I want the eight cylinder 455 or higher that was on my ‘17. And I don’t want four-doors. Practicalness would require them to return the body length to the 14’s length (about 6 inches shorter in the 17 and this was felt in the back seat). For Camaro enthusiasts what’s your feelings?