Had it for about 7 months. No issues. LOVE IT!

Yes I’m dumb enough to ask this question and yes I waited for Reddit to tell me what to do before trying it myself

I have a 2021 Chevrolet ACTIV trailblazer. Bought it new. About a month ago my check engine light comes on. Car is driving normally. I stop by an auto zone and they pull my codes for me. There are a lot, maybe a dozen. I make an appointment at the Chevy dealership closest to me for the next day.

That evening I needed to move my car out of the driveway for garbage pickup, noticed the check engine light is off. Okay, weird, still taking it into the dealership. Next morning get into my car, check engine light comes on and also low power mode warning comes on. I turn the car off, crank it again and the check engine light goes off and no low power mode warning. Okay, dealership is two miles away. I drive it there. It drives normally.

Fast forward four days later, they can find nothing wrong but they tell me I need a new battery. I thought that was weird, my battery was like only a year and a half old. (I had to replace battery and alternator at around 60,000 miles). So, I leave dealership with new battery and a new set of back brake pads I had been talked into, and the check engine light off. $1200.

Next day check engine light is back on. I immediately drive it back to dealership. They keep it for seven days trying to find the problem. Come back finally and tell me they suspect rodent damage in the wiring harness and it will be a four hour $800 diagnostic fee just to try to find the problem, with no guarantee they will. I decline not only because of the $800 fee, but at this point I have decided this dealership is shady af and I’m taking my car somewhere else.

Do some research and find an independent garage with amazing reviews about people with electrical problems and I take it there. The owner of the shop comes out, and I give him the printout of my codes the dealership had pulled. He decides none of these codes relate to one another and he thinks I have water damage from my sunroof drain being clogged, and it’s damaged modules somewhere under my floor in the car, probably under the drivers seat. So I let him do his thing, and he takes the interior carpet and seats out of my car to see if there is water damage.

Fast forward two weeks later, he says he has found light water damage but cannot find the source of the leak. His last message said that they are putting the interior of the car back together and I can pick it back up, apologizing that they couldn’t find what was wrong with it.

So, I will be going to pick up my car, probably with the check engine light still on and me still nervous as hell to drive it more than a few miles at a time back and forth to work. Rideshare has been killing my wallet since this has happened and I’ve put out what is serious money for me now and the car still has some sort of issue. It has about 88,000 miles and of course I just paid my car off this year. Besides the alternator issue that happened a while ago, the car has run great.

Im a single gal and money is tight. I’d really like to not have another car payment. I’m looking for advice of any kind from anyone that may have an idea of what I should do or where I should go. I don’t want to take it back to the original dealership if possible because per online reviews, they’ve got some shady practices in their sales and service dept also.

I’ve uploaded a pic of the codes in case anyone can decipher what may be going on. I really appreciate anyone’s guidance or help that may have experience with this. Thanks Reddit!

i have an 04 colorado 3.5 it’s making a pretty bad sound can anyone help me diagnose this?

I have water coming in to the passenger footwell when it rains. It’s def not a blocked/clogged AC drain. Not a leaky heater core. And the car does not have a sunroof.

It seems that water is leaking into this cavity under the A-pillar, and when it fills it up it flows out of the holes that have two black plastic anchors/connectors (circled in the second pic).

Does anyone know if that area can be accessed from the outside? Something connected to those holes but what? Could it be a leaky windshield? I replaced the wiper cowl thinking that was the culprit but it’s still happening.

Any and all info would be super appreciated. Thanks!

**KSP Performance and Rough Country

I have a 2011 Chevy 1500 4WD Silverado with a 3.5 lift on it. So I needed tires, which led to needing ball joints.

We were having trouble finding part number for control arms to replace. Rough Country gave me a part number for control arms.
But the mechanic told me he couldn’t find the part. Told my boyfriend he didn’t know if he needed to put in new control arms with the new ball joints.

On the control arms has the KSP Performance company logo.
You have to email them to communicate and it takes FOREVER!

Knuckles appear to be stock/factory (according to mechanic).

MY FIRST QUESTION: Do I have to get new control arms to do ball joints on my truck?

OR….

Can I just replace the ball joints, get tires on and get an alignment?

Help me please 🙏

Thank you in advance! I have 5 kids and no time to be without a vehicle. 💙

Hello. My friend has a chevy equinox activ 2026 i think and it has this noise while idling sometimes and letting off of the gas. It has been to the dealership several times and they always say nothing is wrong. Any thoughts on what could be wrong?

My cousin has a 2015 Chevy Malibu, and we're trying to figure out what to do next.

A few months ago, the car started having a bunch of strange electrical problems:

* "Service Power Steering" warning

* Power steering would suddenly stop working for a moment

* Dashboard lights and gauges would flicker

* Engine would sometimes shut off

* Door locks would randomly unlock and relock

* Multiple warning lights and transmission communication codes would appear

The transmission itself always shifted and drove normally, despite the transmission connection/communication code.

We eventually discovered that disabling the automatic stop/start system with an aftermarket bypass cord completely eliminated all of the problems. The car ran perfectly for about four months with the bypass installed.

Then today, the exact same electrical problems returned, even with the bypass cord still installed.

We've already ordered another bypass cord in case the first one has failed, but we're not convinced that's the actual root cause anymore.

Before all of this, we also had the steering control module replaced after a repair shop diagnosed it as the problem. The repair cost about $2,000, but the exact same symptoms came back just a few days later, so replacing that module clearly didn't solve the issue.

The battery and alternator have both been checked and were reported to be good.

We've also contacted a couple of auto electrical shops, but they told us this is the kind of problem that usually needs to be diagnosed by a Chevrolet dealer because it likely involves multiple control modules or the vehicle's communication network.

My questions are:

* Has anyone seen a 2015 Malibu do this before?

* Could the automatic stop/start system or one of its modules be causing these intermittent electrical failures?

* Could a loose ground, damaged wiring harness, or failing Body Control Module (BCM) cause all of these symptoms?

* Could this be a CAN bus communication issue rather than a bad steering component?

* Has anyone seen an aftermarket auto stop/start bypass work temporarily but eventually stop masking the underlying problem?

We're trying to decide whether it's worth taking it straight to the Chevy dealer at this point instead of continuing to replace parts.

Any advice from mechanics or anyone who's dealt with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

My question is I guess is it worth it to fix? I paid about 4k for the car when I bought this 07 suburban LTZ its been great besides a lifter getting stuck and going the cheap route of replacing one lifter and tuning the DOD out. I'm sitting at about 160k on the dash so should I spend the 1500 to get the seals replaced? 5.3 vortec with compression around 145 per cylinder.

I have a 2018 Chevy traverse rs with 125,000 miles on it. I was driving and then all of a sudden my rpm started to go up and down, then came the check engine light. Code reader said I needed a body value replacement and solenoid one and five stuck off. The dealership told me I need a new transmission saying there is metal findings in fluid and gave me a quote of $10,000. Any suggestions? I know this is an issue a lot of people are facing with the same suv. I still owe $8,000 on it.

I have a TBI setup with modified wiring harness ready to go. All I need is a fuel pump. What psi pump do i need?