We had an unusually strong storm come through southwest Ohio yesterday (trees down & flooding) and during that, a small amount of water was coming through our garage ceiling directly below this section of roof that covers the garage and front porch. House is 5 years old and we have lived here for a year, first time this has happened.

Need a new roof on my house in Lehigh Valley area in PA. My house has a gable for the original house footprint running horizontally and an addition on the back that is the same width but gable is perpendicular to the front. I currently have 4 gable vents, an attic vent blowing out in the center of the attic, vented soffits on only the addition, and two box vents on the original front half of the house.

Had a roofer come in and being super persistent on ridge vents on both gables. He said he’d leave the gable vents for inlets. Is this a good idea? From what I’m seeing, ridge vents should only be used with vented soffits? I have then on the addition but not original front of house and would only be able to add on one side of gable due to the addition . From my understanding, roof is failing due to a poor install, not due to humidity issues.

Have another guy come in slightly cheaper keeping the current ventilation scheme. Leaning towards that but wanted to get more opinions on if the ridge vents are worth it if your house doesn’t have vented soffits all the way around.

Any body seen this with OC Duration peppercorn color? Granules are facing the opposite direction on a few shingles within the bundles of good shingles. Can not see from on top of roof but from ground and early morning sun.

Got a couple of estimates for roof replacement. I narrowed it down to two companies. The upstairs addition of my house has a flat roof about 388sq feet. One company quoted me $3,750 for Peel & Stick Base/Cap Sheet and the other company quoted $6,335 for a commercial grade torch down flat roof. Of course the price difference is basically almost double between the two.

Looking for a flat roof to last as long as the new shingles that are being replaced because the flat roof transitions into the shingles. Basically all roofers who came out for inspections suggested the flat roof be replaced at the same time as the shingles for seamless transitions and no possible leaks in the future if it wasn't. Any opinions on peel and stick vs torch down? Thanks in advance.

TL;DR: Peel and stick vs torch down for flat roof, which is better?

Here's a pic of my current gutter situation. I can tell that the plastic guards installed by the previous owner are not working well since they are concave in shape (and one section is completely missing). But I don't know if it's possible to improve this, and which product would be best. We get pine needles, honey locust leaves and maple leaves/keys. Location is Ontario, Canada so we get the full range of weather. Looking for some ideas from those with more experience.

How do these look? Thanks for input, it was installed by someone very reputable.

Hi! We are building a home and had a pre-drywall inspection that came back with this finding. Our inspector said it was scuffing and the builder said it’s tacking and shouldn’t cause an issue. The roof was installed during a heat wave (~100 degrees) so from my understanding it could be that maybe it’s just racking from the roofers walking during installation. Can anyone who knows more than me provide any insight on which it may be? Thank you!

Ngl, dealing with roofing lead times lately has been an absolute nightmare.

We’ve been doing more stone-coated metal roofing jobs around Orlando and Tampa because some homeowners want the durability of metal without the standing seam look

Hi, sorry, reposing.

Any reason why there's wavy ridgevent here? Roofs went on in Maine in September 2025.

I am planning to follow these instructions to replace the damaged and old bathroom vent that is under the roof on the side and instead go straight up. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqrZWd_CQIE

My question is what caulking should I use?

• Loctite PL S30 Black Polyurethane Roof
• Geocel 2300
• Something else?

Recently had a new roof installed. Our old roof had a ridge vent but also a solar powered attic vent and there are two gable vents. Yes, that is how the previous homeowners had the roof done and our upstairs bedroom stayed pretty cool with a mini split system but humid during the summer. The “attic” is only about 30” tall, roughly 15’ wide, is well insulated and basically is crawl space. Our ceiling is so close to the roof that the attic doesn’t really qualify as an attic. There are no soffits because we don’t have eaves and I’ve had roofers and a rep from Lomanco tell me theres not enough space to add deck vents or lower intake vents. So adding intake is really difficult with the wonkiness of our roof. My roofer removed the ridge vent and added two turbines that sit higher than the gable vents with the thinking that they would draw air in the gables and out through the turbines. This made things worse than before and now I am wondering if it’s better to go back to the old way we had it or just cancel out the turbines, keep the two gable vents but make one of those into a powered gable vent so that we are drawing air in and out of the attic space.

It’s just a strange setup and passive venting doesn’t seem like it’s going to work well.

Basically what the title says. I recently got a new roof and I am a bit skeptical about the metal flashing. I see spaces and gaps and I’m not sure if that’s the correct way to install. Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Roofers installed these turbines over the existing turtle vent holes. Attic has been hot and feels like stagnant air. Roofer said it shouldn't be impacting airflow. Should I climb up there and widen the holes a bit?

I order material. I check the right materials are on site in roughly the right quantities the day before. I keep extra flashing and various parts/materials on hand. I cover OSB and such with tarps if there's rain.

Should I spot check the crews quality? Make sure they're laying ice and water shield? Or just leave that up to their lead? Would it be weird if I helped clean up some in the middle of the day?

I would rather be as low involvement as possible while somehow still ensuring it's done right.

I've worked with two different subs and have had poor quality results at times (still very new to roofing). This is mainly just a supplement to my carpentry work. Because 9/10 roofing companies in my main city are just "advertising agencies." The bigger ones have local 1099 repair techs. But I would do that if there was an issue in the future.

I've found this spot leaking in my roof.

It's right where the gutter is, seems like the water is sucking back inside. I've tried to seal under the roof sheet with silver tape (I'm a refrigeration mechanic and had some in my car) to see if it would be a temporary fix. Seems like it's done nothing though.

Also if anyone in Melbourne can recommend a trusty roof repairer to inspect it further that would be great.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace this metal roofing on my shop at some point in the near future. I'm not totally sure of the age, but I'm guessing between 20-30 years old. There are no leaks, currently, but I'm not sure how much longer I can say that.