Spilled a bit of PVC glue on my pants last year doing meter bases, and have lived with it… but it looks extremely uncannily like a cum stain lol

I’ll be going on vacation and these pants are literally perfect for what I need them for, minus the glue.

Is there any way to get this glue off or is a brown sharpie the best bet?

If it helps, the pants are made of: 88% Nylon, 12% Spandex

I'm adding a washer hookup and the plumber made a huge notch to accommodate a 2 inch pipe in 2 x 4 studs. There's also older lumber which is actual 2 inches thick.

This is on the exterior wall so is load bearing.

His solution was a steel plate but I am planning on installing the Simpson HSS heavy duty stud shoe.

I'm annoyed but wondering if this is a bigger deal than it actually is.

I want to decrease the hot water temp for one shower in my house. I’d like some help identifying if my water heaters are plumed to work together or if I can decrease the temp on one of them to lower the temp in that bathroom. I realize it would also lower hot water temp for anything else connected to that heater.

When I turn the shower on, it sounds like both units are in use.

I recently moved to VT and I’m looking for some input on things here.

Howdy,

I have a 5hp submersible well on my farm. Had it installed last year, no issues until this week. How do I adjust the pressure switch to keep it from opening and closing the contacts so much when it reaches pressure?

Is that the proper diagnosis on this on this problem? The control box keeps tripping as well (have to hit the reset button on the bottom of the box).

This well waters our cattle herd so need a permanent solution.

Edit: there are (2) 20gal pressure tanks charged to 25psi attached

I bought a 10 plex where the heat in four zones never worked correctly (according to tenant).

All 10 zones have a dedicated zone valve.
There are two boilers plumbed in parallel with each one having its own 1/6 hp circulation pump.
There are four 1/25 hp circulation pumps on four of the zones. Zones A, B, C, D.
There are two ZVC406 controllers.
One SR504 switching relay.

For the four zones with valves and pumps on them, the following is the set up:

Thermostats are wired into the thermostat terminals of the zvc406.
Zone valves are wired to the zvc406 zone valve terminals.
The SR504 thermostat wires are in parallel to the limit switches of each zone valve.

The issue is when one limit switches is made on any of the zone valves, A, B, C, or D the zone valve controller turns on all four zones.

I believe there’s a wiring issue with the switching relay back feeding power to the zone valve controller. And my other thought on how to address the issue is to upsize the main circulation pumps and just remove the zone pumps for those four zones.

Any ideas?

Just want to plug this thing so I can turn my water back on. Any ideas. Even just taking the band off

Might be a little long but trying to give context.

Moved in a basement apartment 5 years ago. When I moved on, a HORRENDOUS disgusting awful puke-inducing sewagey smell would come our of my laundry room, which is attached to my bedroom. Would fill the whole house. I tried to seal off that room. Reported to maintenance and they said they'd call someone to replace a sump pump. After I came home that day it smelled like bubblegum and sewage. Never really got a resolution, but some guys came in an caulked over this pit (pic #1) in the laundry room. Helped a little.

Over the past 5 years, it wasn't as bad as it originally was, but every once in a while a really foul odor would come out of that room.

Another time when I got really bad, they caulked over that thing again. Mostly helped, made it livable.

Now it started agin- started noticing it in the room under the stairs (pic #2) a little, then from our laundry room again, then also from the upstairs laundry room, while is right at the top or the stairs between upstairs/basement.

It has gotten to the point where we can't be in the house even with the windows open. I have nearly puked, and felt so sick it ruins my day.

Does anyone know what the issue is? They've never said what they think it is, they just keep caulking over that spot. I know nothing about plumbing. Here's what I will say because I looked it up and tried this many times - it doesn't seem to be a dry trap. I've tried many times to run water in the sink in the laundry room and it didn't stop the smell. It seems to come from that pit.

Does anyone have any ideas? These maintenance people blow me off so badly about everything, and I know nothing about plumbing to be able to even suggest things to them.

Kohler toilet and valve, occasionally after flushing, the valve will not open to refill the tank. If I jiggle the float, air bubbles will be ejected from the valve and it will reopen and refill the tank as normal. Q1: where is the air coming from? Q2: will replacing the fill valve fix this problem or do I need something else?

As title says, I installed new drain pipes for my kitchen sink, but the water is not draining when connected to wall drain pipe, if disconnected from drain wall pipe water flows correctly, and also if dumping water directly to wall drain pipe it drains correctly, so issue is when connecting both of them. I am very lost

How do I fix this?

I know the can says one thing but in the field, how long are you guys really waiting for the glue to dry before turning the water on for 1/2 pipe, 3/4, and 1” specifically?

Anyone kno of Industrial/commercial plumbing supply house in the north east Philly area ??

There's alot in the market and wanted to get an insiders opinion. How long should it take? Also I see there's alot of books I need to get and read, is that really necessary and how closely do the books tie into the test. Thanks guys, im working as an apprentice but I need my license real bad if im ever going to succeed.

There's no set screw and turning it feels like it's going to break it. How do I get it off?

Thank you for any tips!!

Problem: I have a blockage in what appears to be the Main Stack / Vent, blocking only the sink in my second floor bathroom. I was able to get through the sinks brown/metal 1.5 inch pipe with the Flex shaft, only to be completely blocked in the darker Main pipe, which vents to the roof, and runs the full length of my house.

The blockage appears to be just below the point where the sink pipe drains into the main pipe. It takes a few hours for water to drain out of the sink. The other symptom is that when I flush the toilet, the tub gargles, but both the tub and toilet have no issues with backup.

Question:

What's the best / safest way to break through this blockage given the tools I have (Listed below), or purchase? I believe I only have 2 access points, one is the roof, which is pretty severely sloped, and not very safe, however I do have a long enough hose if need be.

In the second to last pic, there also is a clear out point, pretty close to the floor of the basement. Going up would be tough, but with 25 feet on both the flex shaft and auger, I believe I could reach it, fighting gravity of course.

I believe it's a straight shot up that main pipe, hopefully at least, if I have to go up it.

Tools:

I've invested a decent amount in order to try to get this done on my own, so I have:

• 25 inch powered auger from Ryobi,
• Ridgid Flexshaft,
  • the Ball Head,
  • single chain (1.5-2 inch width)
  • double chain with Carbide Tips (1.5-2 inch width)
  • Endoscope with Straight and Side angle view
  • Medium sized plumber wrench + Tube
  • Decent 1/2 Inch Impact Wrench (May need adapter to get basement access open)

Any advice would help!

This is a copper pipe to my baseboard coming up thru the floor. These photos are after I cleaned up the initial pile of green "granules" (for lack of a better word). There's still some left on the pipe and on the inside of the hole thru the floor.

What is this yellow and green stuff? Corrosion? Mouse poison? (previous owner did use some green granule mouse poison in the basement but that was many years ago.)

Thank you.

Sorry I'm a total newbie but on our water softener the bypass valves (sorry if that's not the right word) were installed upside down. I can never tell if they're in the right orientation since they're upside down it seems like.

If they're in this orientation, they aren't in bypass right? If I remember correctly the man said if the word "off" (on the red valve) that he wrote on there is horizontal, then it's off.

I know this is ridiculous. Nothing in our house makes sense.

Just had a sewer scope done on a 40 year old townhouse I’m under contract for. It was especially recommended I get one done as there’s a large tree in the front yard.

Looks like the line is holding water at 38 ft and there were wipes which got pushed through and cleared on the first 2 runs. Not sure if the water has anything to do with the tree, as it isn’t that far away from the clean out and he said at 38 it would be in the street. Hoping someone can take a look at the video and give an opinion how big a deal this is.

Here is the written report:
Clean out front of unit. 62 ft to main, at 38 ft line holding water and wipes in line. From 38 - 52 ft line pitch on(?) wrong.

Leaking water main any help tracking one of these down would help