I'm adding a washer hookup and the plumber made a huge notch to accommodate a 2 inch pipe in 2 x 4 studs. There's also older lumber which is actual 2 inches thick.

This is on the exterior wall so is load bearing.

His solution was a steel plate but I am planning on installing the Simpson HSS heavy duty stud shoe.

I'm annoyed but wondering if this is a bigger deal than it actually is.

Spilled a bit of PVC glue on my pants last year doing meter bases, and have lived with it… but it looks extremely uncannily like a cum stain lol

I’ll be going on vacation and these pants are literally perfect for what I need them for, minus the glue.

Is there any way to get this glue off or is a brown sharpie the best bet?

If it helps, the pants are made of: 88% Nylon, 12% Spandex

Trying to install a bidet, but I'm not familiar with this kind of toilet set-up. Is it an easy DIY, if so what materials do I need to get or should I call a plumber to install it?

(Im pretty handy with tools, just dont want to cause a flood lol)

I have never worked with copper piping before, just pex. We reinstalled a toilet and when we turned on the water we saw water leaking from the valve. I’m terrified to mess with it because with our luck we would break something and flood the bathroom we just had to get black mold removed from. Do y’all think it’s soldered or just a screw on that could be easily replaced?

I want to decrease the hot water temp for one shower in my house. I’d like some help identifying if my water heaters are plumed to work together or if I can decrease the temp on one of them to lower the temp in that bathroom. I realize it would also lower hot water temp for anything else connected to that heater.

When I turn the shower on, it sounds like both units are in use.

Hello, my toilet that has a dual flush valve (not sure of brand or model) has been having issues with the tank filling. I fully replaced the fill valve but after a while it just doesn’t fill back up. I found that if I remove this blue plastic part on the flush valve it fills up (not my photo but for reference). Any clue what this part does/ what this indicates? Hoping to not have to replace the flush valve if possible since it seems more involved. Thank you!

Hi plumbers.

I recently removed my chrome P-trap to try and clean it, but when I put it back on its now leaking from one of the joints where the trap connects to the wall. I tried replacing the whole p-trap thinking it was either cracked in the threads or maybe the washers were too brittle, but the replacement piece has the same issue.

*I notice there's a little chip missing from the part where the P-trap joins, so I'm wondering if this is the issue?

I tried taking the rubber jacket-looking connector thing off the pipe coming from the wall to replace the chipped 90 degree piece, so now there's a jagged-edged iron(?) pipe from the wall.

Can I just replace the P-trap with any material? Is one easier than another for connecting to the iron pipe piece? And how do I connect a new material onto iron?

Might be a little long but trying to give context.

Moved in a basement apartment 5 years ago. When I moved on, a HORRENDOUS disgusting awful puke-inducing sewagey smell would come our of my laundry room, which is attached to my bedroom. Would fill the whole house. I tried to seal off that room. Reported to maintenance and they said they'd call someone to replace a sump pump. After I came home that day it smelled like bubblegum and sewage. Never really got a resolution, but some guys came in an caulked over this pit (pic #1) in the laundry room. Helped a little.

Over the past 5 years, it wasn't as bad as it originally was, but every once in a while a really foul odor would come out of that room.

Another time when I got really bad, they caulked over that thing again. Mostly helped, made it livable.

Now it started agin- started noticing it in the room under the stairs (pic #2) a little, then from our laundry room again, then also from the upstairs laundry room, while is right at the top or the stairs between upstairs/basement.

It has gotten to the point where we can't be in the house even with the windows open. I have nearly puked, and felt so sick it ruins my day.

Does anyone know what the issue is? They've never said what they think it is, they just keep caulking over that spot. I know nothing about plumbing. Here's what I will say because I looked it up and tried this many times - it doesn't seem to be a dry trap. I've tried many times to run water in the sink in the laundry room and it didn't stop the smell. It seems to come from that pit.

Does anyone have any ideas? These maintenance people blow me off so badly about everything, and I know nothing about plumbing to be able to even suggest things to them.

Howdy,

I have a 5hp submersible well on my farm. Had it installed last year, no issues until this week. How do I adjust the pressure switch to keep it from opening and closing the contacts so much when it reaches pressure?

Is that the proper diagnosis on this on this problem? The control box keeps tripping as well (have to hit the reset button on the bottom of the box).

This well waters our cattle herd so need a permanent solution.

Edit: there are (2) 20gal pressure tanks charged to 25psi attached

Recently closed on a house in upstate NYS. The inspector said it looks like entire house has an ejector pump setup. Does it seem like it? I know the basement bathroom has a separate pump, as it runs every time we flush.

Also what are the maintenance requirements? Seems like it was installed in 07/2021 according to the date on the alarm. It’s a Gould 2hp system.

I bought a 10 plex where the heat in four zones never worked correctly (according to tenant).

All 10 zones have a dedicated zone valve.
There are two boilers plumbed in parallel with each one having its own 1/6 hp circulation pump.
There are four 1/25 hp circulation pumps on four of the zones. Zones A, B, C, D.
There are two ZVC406 controllers.
One SR504 switching relay.

For the four zones with valves and pumps on them, the following is the set up:

Thermostats are wired into the thermostat terminals of the zvc406.
Zone valves are wired to the zvc406 zone valve terminals.
The SR504 thermostat wires are in parallel to the limit switches of each zone valve.

The issue is when one limit switches is made on any of the zone valves, A, B, C, or D the zone valve controller turns on all four zones.

I believe there’s a wiring issue with the switching relay back feeding power to the zone valve controller. And my other thought on how to address the issue is to upsize the main circulation pumps and just remove the zone pumps for those four zones.

Any ideas?

Just want to plug this thing so I can turn my water back on. Any ideas. Even just taking the band off

We have an overflowing Artesian well. A well company added 40 inches of height to the above ground well shaft and installed a 1in overflow pipe that is about 50ft long into the woods. It runs constantly and fairly fast - think garden hose 3/4 open - and was flooding the side yard, so we added 200ft of pipe downhill, further away. Now it makes a gurgling, slurping noise as the air sucks up the pipe (think gas can nozzle) that echoes horribly when the yard is quiet. How can we minimize the gurgling?

Can someone explain what this flattened copper pipe is? I just found this in my house I recently bought and couldn't even begin to think of the reasoning for this.

Just doing this as a DIY. I was able to set up a P trap going to garbage disposal to sink and everything aligns perfect but im seeing a small leak on the slip joint part of the p trap. I reconnected everything and then ran the water for like 30 minutes and no leaks but now I see a small one again. Do I have to put a washer on this slip joint? I didn't put one because it looked like it was designed in a way were when you had it aligned right, you didnt need one. Attached a photo of setup and where it leaks (either on top of that connection or the bottom, I only hand tightened)

My well pump is bad so we are trying to replace it. Does anyone know what I would need to remove this?

I am hoping to use a universal drain strainer rather than installing another ball rod sink stopper. The question I have is what would be best for just outright plugging the hole on the back where the ball rod enters the drain? Is plumbers epoxy best, or could I buy a small cap to screw onto the small opening? The reason I want to replace it is because the cap/ball rod opening in the drain line is where I have had some leakage problems. Thank you for any help or insight you all can offer.

Kind of a long shot but I have a built in(not separate) braided supply line from the faucet that started leaking at the crimp. Does anyone know a legit way to replace the line or the end without having to buy a new faucet? The faucet is otherwise fine and it's a fair bit to buy a new one.

Installed a new vanity and have been stumped on how to properly install the under sink plumbing. I did a dry install of this p trap (see photos). Should there be another pipe connector from the wall stub to angle it a different way to allow the trap to align