I'm thinking I'm going to have to replace this metal roofing on my shop at some point in the near future. I'm not totally sure of the age, but I'm guessing between 20-30 years old. There are no leaks, currently, but I'm not sure how much longer I can say that.

Basically what the title says. I recently got a new roof and I am a bit skeptical about the metal flashing. I see spaces and gaps and I’m not sure if that’s the correct way to install. Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I order material. I check the right materials are on site in roughly the right quantities the day before. I keep extra flashing and various parts/materials on hand. I cover OSB and such with tarps if there's rain.

Should I spot check the crews quality? Make sure they're laying ice and water shield? Or just leave that up to their lead? Would it be weird if I helped clean up some in the middle of the day?

I would rather be as low involvement as possible while somehow still ensuring it's done right.

I've worked with two different subs and have had poor quality results at times (still very new to roofing). This is mainly just a supplement to my carpentry work. Because 9/10 roofing companies in my main city are just "advertising agencies." The bigger ones have local 1099 repair techs. But I would do that if there was an issue in the future.

I've found this spot leaking in my roof.

It's right where the gutter is, seems like the water is sucking back inside. I've tried to seal under the roof sheet with silver tape (I'm a refrigeration mechanic and had some in my car) to see if it would be a temporary fix. Seems like it's done nothing though.

Also if anyone in Melbourne can recommend a trusty roof repairer to inspect it further that would be great.

Roofers installed these turbines over the existing turtle vent holes. Attic has been hot and feels like stagnant air. Roofer said it shouldn't be impacting airflow. Should I climb up there and widen the holes a bit?

Going on my 5th week of my standing seam install. Last week I noticed clear silicone spilling out of hip caps and ridge vents. They said they could pull the extra silicone out. Came home today to notice that was done but now it appears my hip caps are all bent from walking and my ridge vent is misshapen with the mesh I assume from the same thing. Am I crazy or should I ask them to redo this?

Here's a pic of my current gutter situation. I can tell that the plastic guards installed by the previous owner are not working well since they are concave in shape (and one section is completely missing). But I don't know if it's possible to improve this, and which product would be best. We get pine needles, honey locust leaves and maple leaves/keys. Location is Ontario, Canada so we get the full range of weather. Looking for some ideas from those with more experience.

Got a couple of estimates for roof replacement. I narrowed it down to two companies. The upstairs addition of my house has a flat roof about 388sq feet. One company quoted me $3,750 for Peel & Stick Base/Cap Sheet and the other company quoted $6,335 for a commercial grade torch down flat roof. Of course the price difference is basically almost double between the two.

Looking for a flat roof to last as long as the new shingles that are being replaced because the flat roof transitions into the shingles. Basically all roofers who came out for inspections suggested the flat roof be replaced at the same time as the shingles for seamless transitions and no possible leaks in the future if it wasn't. Any opinions on peel and stick vs torch down? Thanks in advance.

TL;DR: Peel and stick vs torch down for flat roof, which is better?

My home was built in the 50s. I've owned it for 5 years. Not sure how old the roof was. The home has lots of soffit vents throughout the perimeter. The house also has gable vents on each of the three gables. There are no ridge vents or any other type of exhaust vent on my roof that I'm aware of. I know very little about roofing but my understanding is that gable and soffit vents are meant for fresh air intake, but you need a way to exhaust the hot air up top, yes?

We've been dealing with extreme heat in the upper level of our home. The house gets blasted by full sun all day long. I'm wondering if I should be looking into some sort of exhaust vent/fan or adding ridge vents. I've only done roofing once on a shed, so I'm definitely not a roofing guy, but I am fairly handy and have done plenty of other renovation projects (built a shed, laid a patio, renovated a kitchen). Is this something I should attempt on my own?

I'd love to get your thoughts. Included a few crappy old drone pics for reference.

Edit: Just wanna say you guys are awesome! Thanks for all the great advice.

I see images of hail damage and old shingles, and the need to replace them. I'm sure there is a reason that we just replace them. But why isn't there some sort of product that can just be applied over them to restore their productive value? I'm sure there is a reason, like with hail, perhaps it also impacts the underlayer. But with how things improve over time, tech-wise, just seems like there should be something out there.

[Edit - Thanks. Just trying to understand. And it sounds like the reason boils down to the bottom layer that breaks down in due to UV. Which makes me wonder, why don't we create maybe a layered system? Think pancakes. Lol. Or, perhaps, a cheap relayer system you apply every few years before that bottom layer breaks down? HONESTLY, the answer must just be this isn't a reasonable solution. Like it would look like shit.]

House was finished 3 months ago and while the picture is great im aware this is what a good chunk of it looks like waving drip edge and shingles

Kinda feel like this isnt normal at all and somthing i should be calling the builder out on but roofing isnt something i normally deal with

I know kick-outs are needed when the end of a roof intersects a sidewall, but this isn't really a "wall"... just a couple trim boards on the porch overhang. I'm curious if a kick-out should have been installed here. I don't see any rot on the trim, for what's worth.

P.S. I am aware that the z-flashing above the gutter should not have been caulked. I will be removing the caulk soon.

Need a new roof on my house in Lehigh Valley area in PA. My house has a gable for the original house footprint running horizontally and an addition on the back that is the same width but gable is perpendicular to the front. I currently have 4 gable vents, an attic vent blowing out in the center of the attic, vented soffits on only the addition, and two box vents on the original front half of the house.

Had a roofer come in and being super persistent on ridge vents on both gables. He said he’d leave the gable vents for inlets. Is this a good idea? From what I’m seeing, ridge vents should only be used with vented soffits? I have then on the addition but not original front of house and would only be able to add on one side of gable due to the addition . From my understanding, roof is failing due to a poor install, not due to humidity issues.

Have another guy come in slightly cheaper keeping the current ventilation scheme. Leaning towards that but wanted to get more opinions on if the ridge vents are worth it if your house doesn’t have vented soffits all the way around.

Any body seen this with OC Duration peppercorn color? Granules are facing the opposite direction on a few shingles within the bundles of good shingles. Can not see from on top of roof but from ground and early morning sun.

We had an unusually strong storm come through southwest Ohio yesterday (trees down & flooding) and during that, a small amount of water was coming through our garage ceiling directly below this section of roof that covers the garage and front porch. House is 5 years old and we have lived here for a year, first time this has happened.