We had a huge hail storm come through my neighborhood about 6 weeks ago. I've been traveling a lot and didn't get an inspector out until today to look at the damage even though Ive been in communication with my agent (Tammy Hill State Farm) since the storm. House sitter sent me photos of the aftermath.

State Farm inspector is saying the damage to the roof is 'normal wear and tear and consistent with exposure to the elements.' Is this normal wear and tear or is this distinctly hail damage? If it's damage from hail, is it consistent with the photo of the hail stones (as big as 2")?

Not looking for advice on how to handle a claim per forum rules, just asking for insight on hail damage vs normal weathering.

We had an unusually strong storm come through southwest Ohio yesterday (trees down & flooding) and during that, a small amount of water was coming through our garage ceiling directly below this section of roof that covers the garage and front porch. House is 5 years old and we have lived here for a year, first time this has happened.

House was finished 3 months ago and while the picture is great im aware this is what a good chunk of it looks like waving drip edge and shingles

Kinda feel like this isnt normal at all and somthing i should be calling the builder out on but roofing isnt something i normally deal with

Need a new roof on my house in Lehigh Valley area in PA. My house has a gable for the original house footprint running horizontally and an addition on the back that is the same width but gable is perpendicular to the front. I currently have 4 gable vents, an attic vent blowing out in the center of the attic, vented soffits on only the addition, and two box vents on the original front half of the house.

Had a roofer come in and being super persistent on ridge vents on both gables. He said he’d leave the gable vents for inlets. Is this a good idea? From what I’m seeing, ridge vents should only be used with vented soffits? I have then on the addition but not original front of house and would only be able to add on one side of gable due to the addition . From my understanding, roof is failing due to a poor install, not due to humidity issues.

Have another guy come in slightly cheaper keeping the current ventilation scheme. Leaning towards that but wanted to get more opinions on if the ridge vents are worth it if your house doesn’t have vented soffits all the way around.

Any body seen this with OC Duration peppercorn color? Granules are facing the opposite direction on a few shingles within the bundles of good shingles. Can not see from on top of roof but from ground and early morning sun.

Basically what the title says. I recently got a new roof and I am a bit skeptical about the metal flashing. I see spaces and gaps and I’m not sure if that’s the correct way to install. Any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Roofers installed these turbines over the existing turtle vent holes. Attic has been hot and feels like stagnant air. Roofer said it shouldn't be impacting airflow. Should I climb up there and widen the holes a bit?

Our covered patio roof allows streams of water behind the gutter when it rains hard. Roofer friend says a 6” gutter instead of 4” should fix it, but why would that prevent water getting behind the gutter?

I am planning to follow these instructions to replace the damaged and old bathroom vent that is under the roof on the side and instead go straight up. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqrZWd_CQIE

My question is what caulking should I use?

• Loctite PL S30 Black Polyurethane Roof
• Geocel 2300
• Something else?

My home was built in the 50s. I've owned it for 5 years. Not sure how old the roof was. The home has lots of soffit vents throughout the perimeter. The house also has gable vents on each of the three gables. There are no ridge vents or any other type of exhaust vent on my roof that I'm aware of. I know very little about roofing but my understanding is that gable and soffit vents are meant for fresh air intake, but you need a way to exhaust the hot air up top, yes?

We've been dealing with extreme heat in the upper level of our home. The house gets blasted by full sun all day long. I'm wondering if I should be looking into some sort of exhaust vent/fan or adding ridge vents. I've only done roofing once on a shed, so I'm definitely not a roofing guy, but I am fairly handy and have done plenty of other renovation projects (built a shed, laid a patio, renovated a kitchen). Is this something I should attempt on my own?

I'd love to get your thoughts. Included a few crappy old drone pics for reference.

Edit: Just wanna say you guys are awesome! Thanks for all the great advice.

I've found this spot leaking in my roof.

It's right where the gutter is, seems like the water is sucking back inside. I've tried to seal under the roof sheet with silver tape (I'm a refrigeration mechanic and had some in my car) to see if it would be a temporary fix. Seems like it's done nothing though.

Also if anyone in Melbourne can recommend a trusty roof repairer to inspect it further that would be great.

Got a couple of estimates for roof replacement. I narrowed it down to two companies. The upstairs addition of my house has a flat roof about 388sq feet. One company quoted me $3,750 for Peel & Stick Base/Cap Sheet and the other company quoted $6,335 for a commercial grade torch down flat roof. Of course the price difference is basically almost double between the two.

Looking for a flat roof to last as long as the new shingles that are being replaced because the flat roof transitions into the shingles. Basically all roofers who came out for inspections suggested the flat roof be replaced at the same time as the shingles for seamless transitions and no possible leaks in the future if it wasn't. Any opinions on peel and stick vs torch down? Thanks in advance.

TL;DR: Peel and stick vs torch down for flat roof, which is better?

Here's a pic of my current gutter situation. I can tell that the plastic guards installed by the previous owner are not working well since they are concave in shape (and one section is completely missing). But I don't know if it's possible to improve this, and which product would be best. We get pine needles, honey locust leaves and maple leaves/keys. Location is Ontario, Canada so we get the full range of weather. Looking for some ideas from those with more experience.

Recently had a new roof installed. Our old roof had a ridge vent but also a solar powered attic vent and there are two gable vents. Yes, that is how the previous homeowners had the roof done and our upstairs bedroom stayed pretty cool with a mini split system but humid during the summer. The “attic” is only about 30” tall, roughly 15’ wide, is well insulated and basically is crawl space. Our ceiling is so close to the roof that the attic doesn’t really qualify as an attic. There are no soffits because we don’t have eaves and I’ve had roofers and a rep from Lomanco tell me theres not enough space to add deck vents or lower intake vents. So adding intake is really difficult with the wonkiness of our roof. My roofer removed the ridge vent and added two turbines that sit higher than the gable vents with the thinking that they would draw air in the gables and out through the turbines. This made things worse than before and now I am wondering if it’s better to go back to the old way we had it or just cancel out the turbines, keep the two gable vents but make one of those into a powered gable vent so that we are drawing air in and out of the attic space.

It’s just a strange setup and passive venting doesn’t seem like it’s going to work well.

I see images of hail damage and old shingles, and the need to replace them. I'm sure there is a reason that we just replace them. But why isn't there some sort of product that can just be applied over them to restore their productive value? I'm sure there is a reason, like with hail, perhaps it also impacts the underlayer. But with how things improve over time, tech-wise, just seems like there should be something out there.

[Edit - Thanks. Just trying to understand. And it sounds like the reason boils down to the bottom layer that breaks down in due to UV. Which makes me wonder, why don't we create maybe a layered system? Think pancakes. Lol. Or, perhaps, a cheap relayer system you apply every few years before that bottom layer breaks down? HONESTLY, the answer must just be this isn't a reasonable solution. Like it would look like shit.]

I live in Florida and we’re in peak summer. It’s hot as heck outside.

Lately I’ve been noticing my house a lot warmer. The AC guy came and checked it out and said everything is running good with it. It’s a 2-year old unit.

I chalked it up to the house being older and just having poor insulation, but after some research I think it may be my roof.

I have a flat roof for about half of my house, the other half is shingle on a slightly raised roof. I noticed that on the side of the house with the flat roof. It feels significantly warmer. I touched the ceiling and it feels hot. I measure it with an infrared thermometer and it’s reading 90+ degrees on the ceiling in that part of the house. On the raised roof area, it’s reading about 82 degrees. The ceiling closest to the area handler is reading 76-78. Thermostat is set to 74.

The roof is about 7-8 years old. I can’t tell for sure whether there is insulation around the flat roof area cause there is not attic access in that part.

What are my options here? Do I have to tear up the ceiling to improve the insulation? There is also a coating I saw that I can paint the roof with to help reflect some of the sun and heat. Does that work?

I order material. I check the right materials are on site in roughly the right quantities the day before. I keep extra flashing and various parts/materials on hand. I cover OSB and such with tarps if there's rain.

Should I spot check the crews quality? Make sure they're laying ice and water shield? Or just leave that up to their lead? Would it be weird if I helped clean up some in the middle of the day?

I would rather be as low involvement as possible while somehow still ensuring it's done right.

I've worked with two different subs and have had poor quality results at times (still very new to roofing). This is mainly just a supplement to my carpentry work. Because 9/10 roofing companies in my main city are just "advertising agencies." The bigger ones have local 1099 repair techs. But I would do that if there was an issue in the future.

I know kick-outs are needed when the end of a roof intersects a sidewall, but this isn't really a "wall"... just a couple trim boards on the porch overhang. I'm curious if a kick-out should have been installed here. I don't see any rot on the trim, for what's worth.

P.S. I am aware that the z-flashing above the gutter should not have been caulked. I will be removing the caulk soon.

Hey I just had a replacement, I wanted to get you all's opinion on if it's done right. I don't have any concerns but I don't know what's right either.

Thank you so much.