Coming from a D500, went out into my backyard and just started playing around with the D850. The doe was shot with my Sigma 150-600, the coneflowers were shot with Nikon 50, and the last was shot with Helios 44m-4. All were run through Lightroom. Just looking for any feedback.

Previously I had Nikon D3500 with few lenses, what i miss most on that DX sensor is Nikon AF-P NIKKOR 70-300mm lens, what do you guys think about 180-600 on Z6III or maybe some other telephoto lens with good range?

For the last few months, I’ve been going back and forth between buying a Z5 II or a Z6 III. However, in recent weeks my budget took a hit due to some unexpected medical bills. I decided I don't want to wait until my budget recovers to get a full-frame camera, so I'm going to buy the Z50 II + DJI Osmo Pocket 4 instead.

My brother is trying really hard to convince me to buy the Sony a6700 (is it just me, or are Sony users basically the Jehovah's Witnesses of the photography world?). While I understand the a6700 is a more capable camera for certain things, my long-term game plan is to slowly build a collection of full-frame Z-mount lenses. That way, when I can finally afford a Nikon full-frame body, I can just keep the Z50 II as my secondary camera.

For context, here is what I’ll be using the camera for:

Work: Furniture photography (both in-studio and on-site), plus photo and video of factory processes.

Personal: Street photography, landscapes, and photos of friends and family.

I must admit I am a beginner, but I’ve been taking photography very seriously. I’ve read several books over the last few months and I go out shooting almost every single day. Currently, I’m shooting with a Nikon D200 that I found.

What do you guys think of my plan?

Post your proudest photo taken with the Z50ii

Nikon ZR for photography.

I know this has been discussed a lot on this platform and I found those discussions extremely helpful for my own decision to buy the Nikon ZR entirely for photography. This is why I also wanted to share my own experience.

For context, I come from film photography. I have about six film camera bodies and I also own a Nikon D750, so am familiar with Nikon handling and menu system. My objective with the ZR was to obtain something uncomplicated, by comparison to film, with the latest tech to simply get things done when I want to. The idea was for it to be really complementary, allowing me to stay in my film-like thinking process while expanding my horizon with things like flash or changing lighting conditions more conveniently.

Let me first go through all the little bits of criticism which I had found about the camera during my research before I bought it.

• No viewfinder: Well, that's obvious. For my style, I believe I get better pictures if I can visualize a scene on the monitor and the monitor is excellent. So no problem there. I also did not originally like the flip-out screen, but I find it in many situations convenient to lift the camera and not even have to flip it out then. Hence also this is no problem.
• 1/60th sync speed for flash photography: I actually quite wanted the camera for simpler flash than on film. The 1/60th is the same as on my Leica M2, so I am a bit used to that. I normally shoot flash in dark scenes and street. So again, this is not a problem for me.
• Small grip: Again, coming from a Leica M2 with no grip at all, I really do not see a problem. I have quite large hands and I can hold the camera for long periods. Granted, I am not a wedding photographer and rather go for few sporadic shots. In addition, I normally use small lenses.
• Small rotating dials: Not sure if I would have noticed this had I not read it in the reviews. It is true, these are smaller, by comparison to the D750, for example, but I really did not find this a practical concern. You get used to it after about 30 seconds.
• Switch on button on the left. It is true that the camera cannot be operated one-handed, so you should not think of it as the equivalent of a Ricoh GR. I am not sure where else you would put that button and I have no problem with it. What is great is that the camera switches on very fast. I typically lift it with both hands while simultaneously pressing the on-button on the left.

After a few weeks of usage, here's a few points which I thought worked really well for me personally:

• Size and feel: fantastic, only a rangefinder could make it even better. This was quite important to me as I feel quite spoiled from the look and feel of the M2 or Nikon F3. Another key aspect for me was that the camera would fit easily into my rather small shoulder bag, as I am not the kind of person running around with a camera backpack.
• Nikon menu system: It gives you this BMW feeling as everything is very well thought out and convenient. You will have to invest a bit of time to get your head around it and, to be fair, I am still struggling with tiny bits like using the front button to control ISO without toggling. There are so many ways to access the functionality you need very quickly. This includes the concern some people raised about the relatively few function buttons. Again, I come from a very minimalist setup and if you plan this out well, I prefer having fewer buttons.
• Lens versatility: I have a large collection of Nikon AI-s vintage lenses at home and love how all of them fit onto the ZR. I am using the Urth adapter, which I believe makes even the AF-D glass look fantastic on the camera, which is quite a feat. The AI-s lenses are simply beautiful (and a delight to handle with focus peaking) as ever.
• Flash photography: This was one of the key objectives and I feel it works really well. I very much like walking around with a Godox X3 mounted on top of the camera, which is so small that you can just leave it on. You then just drop the flash in your pocket and pull it out quickly to shoot. The large screen enables fine-tuning easily, which is great.
• In-camera photo organization: The fantastic screen makes it easy to delete and rate pictures when you are traveling on the plane or on a bus. This is so much better than arriving back home with such a load of pictures you don't even want to start downloading. I prefer to do any real editing on a computer, so cannot speak about those possibilities.
• Connectivity: While I like the idea of a modern connection to mobile phones and computers, I normally lack patience with Wifi and insist on using only the Bluetooth connection in the background. While the Snapbridge app is far from perfect, this works surprisingly well for me, transferring images seamlessly after some initial fumbling around. Finally, I can catch up with my $3,000 tech with the abilities of my kids' mobile phones.
• While I have not used this extensively, I also very much like the ability to play around with different wide and squared image formats. Much simpler than buying a medium format or an XPan.
• I bought this on Cotsworld in Europe. Great price, no problem with delivery.

Limitations:

• Adapters are still not trivial. I was struggling with the K&F adapter for another Voigtlaender M-mount lens, which I felt even if I had managed to screw the pieces together -- which I didn't -- it would not have looked like it aesthetically fits onto the body.)
• Another thing that slightly surprised me was the size of the camera even with small AI-s vintage lenses attached. The adapter is quite long really, making the overall combination bigger than I might have expected. Not a huge deal, but again, don't think of it as the equivalent of a Ricoh GR or as meaningfully pocket-able.
• Another practical limitation previously mentioned online is that during street scenarios the massive screen makes me more obvious than I am used to, especially at night.
• I also got the 24-120 zoom with the camera as a do-all option. Surely technically perfect, and of acceptable size, but I am simply not used to it and have yet to fall in love with the digital style that comes out. I find this much less of an issue for black and white.

In summary, it seems to me that none of these things I was mentioning above at the end of the day matter very much when, like me, you have other bodies and only use the ZR for a specific purpose. To be honest, the biggest question mark for me comes from the sheer transition from film to digital. While occasionally good pictures come out, that is, as always, surprisingly hard. I still have to wrap my head around developing a style that consistently works for me in the digital context.

Who knows, maybe one day I will even try to make a video with it.

What is a sub $1000 DSLR hidden gem and why?

Edit: wanting to stay with full frame

I'm new to photography and I want a new lens I just want more zoom so will the Nikon AF-S 18-105 f 3.5-5.6 G ED fit my d5200?

My copy is 1.6.1 but I think there are newer versions. When I went to update, it opened Message Center 2 and then said, MC2 was no more! What a mess Nikon!

Hi, I’ve been having issues with my camera’s (D750) exposure recently and I’m a beginner in photography, and I can’t quite figure out what it is. I’m unable to brighten my photos at all by raising the exposure compensation, and the photos come out darker than what they should be in the lighting they’re in. I’ve mainly done wildlife photography, it wasn’t until about a week ago that I changed some of the settings to take pictures of fireworks. But I’m not sure if I messed something up through there.

I’ve heard turning off Auto ISO can fix it, but I have had no problems with it before, and it hasn’t helped and the images still come out dark. I’ve tried checking the metering mode too, but nothing changes either. I’m so lost 😭

He enviado mi cámara D750 al SAT oficial de Nikon Finicon en España. Han reconocido que el número de serie de mi cámara está afectado por el fallo del obturador. Sin embargo, después de varios días sin tener noticias, me comunican que, para cubrir dicha reparación (que, en principio, realizan de forma gratuita), debo reparar previamente varios supuestos daños internos que, según ellos, impiden el funcionamiento de la cámara.
Me envían un presupuesto de aproximadamente 300 euros. Hablo con ellos por teléfono y, además de recibir un trato poco adecuado, intentan convencerme de que la cámara ya llegó en ese estado, que había sido manipulada anteriormente y que presentaba daños incompatibles con su funcionamiento.
PD: Cuando envié la cámara, funcionaba perfectamente y había realizado numerosas fotografías con ella. Sin embargo, ellos afirman que eso es imposible, ya que, según su versión, la cámara tenía piezas desconectadas que hacían imposible su funcionamiento.
La envié únicamente para subsanar el fallo del obturador, reconocido por Nikon para este número de serie. En conclusión, la respuesta que me dan es que o bien acepto el presupuesto y reparo esas supuestas averías para que, posteriormente, me cambien el obturador de forma gratuita, o bien me devuelven la cámara sin reparar, convertida, según sus propias condiciones, en un auténtico pisapapeles.

Me veo en la obligación de pronunciar por aquí por si puedo ayudar a alguien que se vea en mi misma situación, ya que el que se ha quedado sin camara soy yo.

Un saludo

Just bought my nikon coolpix l23 in japan and I need help with the settings. Can anyone suggest a setting to get that digicam vibes? Thank you in advance!

Anyone on here taken apart and lubed a 28mm f/2.8 AF-D or similar lens vintage F mount screw drive lens. A used copy I have is a bit noisier than I would like when it focuses up close. Almost like vibrations and rattle combined into a deep screech. The autofocus ring is smooth otherwise. It is noticeably louder than other similar f-mount lenses (20mm, 50mm, 28-105mm) I own.

I figure if it is an easy low risk fix I would like to do it myself vs. sending it off.

Hi all,

I've been shooting the Z5 for quite some time now and about 4 years ago I got a second hand Tamron 150-600 g2 that I use with it. At the time I could get a really nice bargain and I wasn't sure how much I would use the lens.

Now I am considering if it is worth the upgrade to the Nikkor 180-600. 80% of shots are at 600mm, so that's where my focus is.

Issues I have with this lens that I hope to improve:

Wide open it's very soft. How much better is the Nikkor?

I feel like the VC doesn't play nice with ibis. Steadily held and supported on something, I still need at least 1/1500th shutter speed at 600mm. Which is about what I expect if VC is not present.

The combination means that in most situations my ISO goes up a lot. I often find myself shooting at 6000 ISO, which isn't great on the Z5 for prints.

I expect to need about €1000-1200 for the upgrade. Would that make any sense?

Even better lenses are waaay up in price and out of the question for what I want to spend on a hobby.

Would love to hear your thoughts.

Hello everyone,

I have been going back and forth on this for a while and could use some perspective from people who actually own one of these lenses.

I shoot wildlife (mostly big cats, dholes, elephants) on a Z8, currently using the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 S. I am at the point where I want to go longer, and it's come down to the 180-600mm f/5.6-6.3 VR vs the 600mm f/6.3 VR S.

I've read through a bunch of threads here and on other forums, and watched a good number of comparison videos, but I'm still stuck. On paper the zoom flexibility of the 180-600 seems perfect for safari work where subjects can be close or far, but the 600mm prime's speed and reported sharpness/AF performance keep pulling me back.

For those shooting wildlife, especially from vehicles on safari (I shoot mostly in India):

• How noticeable is the sharpness gap between the two, especially wide open and at the long end (~600mm on the zoom vs the prime)?
• How do they compare for bokeh/subject separation? I know the prime's S-line optical formula should render backgrounds differently, but curious if the difference is dramatic or subtle in real safari conditions (grass, dappled light, etc.)

Appreciate any real-world experience and suggestions.

I'm always looking thru FB marketplace and someone have up for sale a Nikon af-d 70-180 4.5-5.6 for $400. Its not often u see that model f/s not that i'm interested in it but if I did spend that amount of money let me go with the 70-200 2.8 af-s II or even the 80-200 af-s II 2.8 version.

Would this lens be a buy or past for you?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice on what Nikon body to buy used after my old Nikon D90 unfortunately died because of a shutter failure. The repair quote is around €320, which seems hard to justify since I could buy another used body for less.

I would like to stay as budget-conscious as possible, ideally around €200-250, and preserve as much of my current gear as I can.

My current setup is:

• Nikon D90, now broken
• Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 for Nikon DX
• Tamron 70-300mm for Nikon F mount
• D90 battery grip with double battery
• D90 batteries

I know that if I move to something like a D7000/D7100, I can keep using my lenses, but I would lose compatibility with my D90 batteries and grip. On the other hand, if I go for a D300/D300s, I should be able to keep using the EN-EL3e batteries, but I would still need a different grip, and the image quality upgrade from the D90 may not be huge.

I have been considering:

• Nikon D7000: seems like the most sensible upgrade within budget, with better sensor, better ISO performance, better autofocus, dual SD slots and still fully compatible with my DX lenses.
• Nikon D300/D300s: more professional body, better build, better autofocus and compatible with my D90 batteries, but older sensor and probably less of a real image quality upgrade.
• Another D90: cheapest and would let me keep everything, including grip and batteries, but obviously no real upgrade.
• Nikon Z50: much more modern, but probably too expensive once I factor in the FTZ adapter and possible lens compatibility issues.

My priority is not necessarily having the newest camera. I mainly want a reliable used body that gives me the best value, lets me keep using my Tamron lenses, and costs significantly less than repairing the D90.

Would you recommend going for a D7000, a D300/D300s, another D90, or saving more for something like a D7100/Z50?

Any advice from people who have upgraded from a D90 or used these bodies would be very appreciated.

I ordered a untested 35-70 f2.8D from ebay and it looked fine in the pictures but there were no mentions of haze and fungus. it doesn't seem to affect picture quality. Autofocus and macro mode both work. Is it worth taking it apart to try and clean it and would i have to worry about it coming back and spreading to my camera?

B&H is having a flash sale and the 500mm f/5.6 PF is nearly 50% off ($1,996). Is this too good to pass up? I know it's a buyer's market for F-mount lenses, but this is a huge price drop. Are they just clearing inventory? Pre-owned sales on ebay are going in the $1400-1900 range, so this is a great opportunity.

NOTE: I don't work for B&H. I just noticed this sale yesterday and couldn't find any posts about it, so I thought I'd share for anyone who has this 500mm on their wishlist.

I found this Z50 with a 50-250mm lens for $500 which is what I’ve seen the body alone go for in most places. Camera looks basically brand new and with only 196 shutter count!!

I consider it my first “real” camera as I only had an older Canon SL1 and didn’t have much time to practice back then, now that I have more time and a better camera I can’t wait to practice and learn more

I wanted to try this shot for a long time and I finally made some time to go try it. So me and the kiddos geared up for a short night hike and we made it happen! I've seen shots like this before but had never used the drone for light painting.

the tower shot is F/4.5, 30 seconds, 200iso

Took a few attempts with the drone to get it to line up right (DJI mini 4 pro) but once I figured out you want to start the circle behind the object to hide the start and stop points it didn't take long, 8 shots to find the right location and framing. I had an AD200 at the top with just the lamp on and then I used my headlamp to paint the front of the tower and it all came together in a single frame with out any modifying. Only editing was color, exposure, and a border.

The hiking shots are with the Viltrox 35mm 1.2 lab, most of them are around 10,000iso and wide open.

Heading out later to test it out but the initial impression is positive.

I'm unsure about the Tokina AF 100-300mm f/4 AT-X, I don't know if its image and optical quality are good. I've also heard that it has AF issues, is that true?