(I’m in Dallas and we don’t get a lot of snow)
Looking for new tires (19-inch rims) for my G60, I’d appreciate inputs for helping me choose between :
Michelin CrossClimate 2
vs
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4

Kindly share pros and cons, and your experience

Looking at getting an x3m40i/X5 40i they will be X drive and have the b58 they are all around 100-120k miles and cost between 23-27k (USD) is it worth getting one at this mileage there's about 15 in my area for sale

Heard this mod is all the rage these days.

Looking for some opinions on whether this is a fair deal on a custom ordered 2027 M2 xDrive. I know there’s practically little to no data on what people are paying for this, but maybe I can knock down some more on the dealer fees?

Vehicle:

2027 BMW M2 xDrive

Custom order

MSRP: $77,600

No market adjustment

Final breakdown:

MSRP/Selling Price: $77,600
Sales Tax: $4,831.10
Documentation Fee: $1,298
Electronic Filing Fee: $598
License Fee: $475
PTA Fee: $189
Other Fees: $5.50

Final Out-the-Door Price: $84,996.60

Originally they wanted: $86,368.20

Build:
• 2027 BMW M2 xDrive Coupe
• Zandvoort Blue
• Black Vernasca Leather w/ M Color Highlight

Options:
• Remote Engine Start
• 19"/20" M Dual-Spoke Style 930M Silver Wheels
• M Compound Brakes w/ Red Calipers
• M Shadowline Lights
• Carbon Fiber Interior Trim
• Adaptive Lights
• Active Cruise Control (ACC)
• Wireless Device Charging
• Live Cockpit Pro (Navigation

A few notes:

There was a $995 Preferred Luxe package on the deal, but I had them remove it.

The dealer is requiring a $2,500 deposit, but they have agreed in writing that it is fully refundable.

This is not tied to a guaranteed allocation yet—I’d be waiting for an allocation.

Financing would likely be through PenFed at 5.14% for 60 months.

I’m located in South Florida

Does ~$85k OTD seem like a fair deal?

The previous owner had shitty aftermarket flood light holograms and they both were projecting images with cracks in them like the one pictured above. I bought OEM ones to replace them less than 2 years ago and the passenger side one is now showing the same type of cracked image.

I’m in south Florida so not sure if maybe the heat or moisture causes this but any tips or suggestions to help with this would be great. The OEM replacements were around $150 I believe and it seems a bit ridiculous to replace them again after I just did so.

Wondering which size tires to get with my rims. I’m wondering if I can get away with 245/45 but it doesn’t seem advised (for rear). Or do I just run a square setup and what’s the biggest size I can get away with then. Thanks

So basically just got a 2020 320d miles are slightly higher at 130k, but it has 12 services on the book. I the engine at idle and when revving up / driving sounds and looks really good and smooth. But I notice, when I’m in the low rev range at low speed holding it around 1-1.5k revs, I notice this like type of clattering. I’m not sure if this is the regular “diesel clatter” or if it sounds like some sort of rod knock or something. I attached a video where you guys could listen. Any advice appreciated.

Hey everyone!

Today I pulled off the seat covers on my BMW E34 525i (USversion) and got a surprise: the leather underneath isn’t light beige like I expected, it’s actually a dark brown/tan color.

I’m in the middle of a full restoration and now I’m torn between keeping that original dark brown tone or having it redone/reupholstered in light beige.

Does anyone know where I can find the original BMW color chart to compare and confirm the exact shade? Any info on the interior color code, or where to get a quote for leather restoration, would be really appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I need to get new suspension on my car and I'm planning to get coilovers. I'm thinkijng about lowering it just enough to minimize the wheels gap but not low enough to make the stock 442m wheel offset look sunken in and awkward.

Does anyone have any recommendations on height to accomplish that? Pictures would be super helpful too for reference. No I'm not interested in getting spacers.

Hey everyone!

Thinking about buying a used BMW IX 2025. Would you recommend it? Any issues so far? Do you love it? What would be a good price for it now?

I’m Michigan-based, weekend/summer driver (not daily), $25k budget. Occasionally carrying my wife and infant in back. Would love your POV on what to get.

The options:
- E46 M3 - the one I actually want, but worried about upkeep (subframe, cooling, rod bearings, VANOS) given my budget likely means buying one that needs some of this work. Still, the most special.

- M235i vert - solid reliability, and nice HP, but heard the back seat is tight for rear-facing car seats. I’m also 6’2”/280 if that matters for cabin space. Like that it has speed and comfort. Not the most special.

- 435i vert - same platform size as the 3-Series, so probably fine for the car seat, and matured N55 reliability. Feels like the “safe” pick but also the slowest. 440i seems out of my budget.

Owned any of these? Especially interested if you’ve made this call with a young family. Trying to land on one and stop second-guessing. Thanks!

My 2014 328D got towed 7/20 at 9pm, I went to pick it up and asked if they used a flat bed, they said no but we used Dollie’s so it’s fine. My husband was adamant that they screwed the car up, I drove 3 miles back to my house and it lost power and threw a drivetrain malfunction code. I towed it to a bmw dealership, they’re saying they’ve worked on it for 4 hours and still don’t understand where the power lost came from.

Has anyone ever dealt with this? I’m documenting everything, I have a timeline. This car has never caused me any issues so I find it really hard to believe it’s just a coincidence

I just got a 2012 335i 2d convertible and I had already planned on tossing some money into it and doing some cosmetic stuff but as I look for things I am reading about how a lot of things for this specific model are not made or sold. Is there anywhere that someone can point me for things that are EXCLUSIVELY for this model? a pic below for reference tho she’s clean and drives nice! M sport package as well!

I am thinking about buying the following: https://www.precisionoptionsauto.com/Inventory/Details/1546e2d3-635f-4f01-9c8e-b1b3a9aa6a25

Anyone have insight or tips on things to look at during a test drive?

I love the wagon format, x-drive and diesel engine. I would plan on deleting the emissions system so I am not worried about that maintenance.

I have heard timing chains are hugely expensive as it’s an engine out job…but this generation has a more robust assembly. My only concern is BmWs recommended oil change interval affecting timing chain life…

Any advice?

Im trying to tune my g16 840i, I got everything I needed to do it but when I to upload my license key it says this.

Has anyone else had a similar problem or know how to fix this?

Bought the car 7/15/26 and have been dealing back and forth with the salesman since then about this adapter not coming with the car. It clearly states on two places on the BMW website that 2025 i5 M60 is suppose to come with both of these but I’ve only received the one on the right of the first pic (not circled).

And the dealer is saying “nope not supposed to come with your car so we are not going to give you one”.

It was already a complete shit experience buying the car and now this is making it even worse.

What can I do? Am I in the wrong here?

Edit: Salesman has redeemed himself quite a bit by looking into this more despite my negativity. He found supporting internal docs that state the car should’ve come with both of them. In a nutshell internal docs state all i5 with March 2026 or newer build dates come with both adapters, and mine was built 3/26/26. So the factory forgot to include one as it’s not in their receiving logs for the car. He’s going to take the information to parts manager and get me one ordered.

Hi everyone,⁠

⁠I’m currently retrofitting an MMI CarPlay unit (Andream) into my BMW X1 F48 (EntryNav2).⁠

⁠I’ve unscrewed the head unit, but the factory wiring harness behind it is extremely short and tight. I can only pull the head unit out by about 3–5 cm before the cables pull completely taut, and I'm really afraid of damaging or snapping the wires or connectors if I pull any harder.⁠

⁠A few questions for anyone who has done this on an F48:⁠

⁠1. Is it normal for the OEM cables to feel this short?⁠
⁠2. What’s the best technique/angle to reach behind and release the main Quadlock lever when there's so little clearance?⁠
⁠3. Once the Quadlock is unlatched, does it give enough slack to reach the LVDS/video connector easily?⁠
⁠4. Where did you end up tucking the new Quadlock harness afterwards so the head unit slides back in smoothly?⁠

⁠Any advice or tips from people who went through this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!⁠

2023 X1 with 18k miles … Have it on camera of my panoramic roof randomly shattering in my driveway… only had the car for maybe month if even that would the dealer be likely to cover ?

Edit: video in comments

Hello! We picked up a used 2026 X3 from the dealership yesterday, but it did not come with a setup card or service card.

While setting up the phone, the system is asking for a setup card. Is this card supposed to come standard with the vehicle?

I contacted the dealership, and the parts department quoted me $420 for a replacement setup card. Shouldn’t this have been included with the car?

made a chime sound and it went out. anyone experience this? The normal i drive screen still works normal

I saw today this BMW 327/28 from 1939. There are a lot of classic cars, but this was the only BMW in the collection.

Disclaimer: the cars are for sale but Im not related in anyway, I just took the pictures for the group because I believe it's an historical piece.

I think something is wrong with my car. Today at a traffic light, my car, while standing still, started going up and down a little with some noise. I turned of the engine as fast as possible and after starting it again it went away. I recall this happened before like a year ago.

No dashboardlights indicating anything. Didn't see any oil under the cap.

Someone knows what is might be? Would this be something BMW is known for? Or just go to the garage for a checkup?

10k miles in 7 months blew right by…

I’ve heard the reason that MyBMW doesn’t work for the 2014 320i is because it relies on a 3g internet and that’s all phased out. Does anyone know a way to mod the car, and make the app work for it again? I’d love to be able to track my car, use the phone key, and see the stats again

For context, this is my third BMW, and I’ve genuinely loved owning every one of them. I bought my first BMW, traded it in to upgrade to my second, and eventually did the same thing to get my third.
I purchased this car in 2021. It is a 2018 BMW, and it recently reached 103,000 miles. Until now, it had been extremely reliable.

A few months ago, the car started smoking and would not drive. I took it to a shop, and they discovered that oil had somehow been put into the coolant system. The entire cooling system had to be replaced. I was hesitant to spend that much money because of the mileage, but the car had always been good to me, so I went ahead with the repair. It cost approximately $4,000.
Now, barely six months later, the car started shaking while I was driving. I continued driving it for a short time and scheduled an appointment to have it checked, but before I could get it to the shop, it suddenly stopped in the middle of the road and displayed a “drivetrain malfunction” warning.
Because I am now living in a different state, I took it to a different independent BMW shop. They told me the engine timing is off, there are problems affecting all four cylinders, and there may be additional engine damage. The estimated repair cost is around $7,000. The mechanic said that, considering the age and mileage of the car, he does not believe it is worth repairing.

The problem is that I still owe approximately $9,000 on the loan and make payments of $290 per month. It almost feels like I have no choice but to repair it so I can either sell it or trade it in, but spending another $7,000 also feels extremely risky. The mechanic made it clear that even after fixing the current problem, there is no guarantee that something else will not go wrong.
He also found oil residue still present in the vehicle, even though the entire coolant system was supposedly replaced. He believes the remaining contamination may have contributed to the drivetrain malfunction and the current engine problems.

I know BMWs have a reputation for becoming expensive once they reach higher mileage, but I truly never had major issues with any of mine before this. This is also the first BMW I have owned that has gone over 100,000 miles.

I am honestly devastated because it feels like I may have to let the car go, but I cannot even afford to sell it while still owing so much on the loan. Also I love this car and it feels like a gut punch bc this was so left field.
At the same time, putting another $7,000 into it just to possibly sell or trade it afterward seems like a huge gamble.

Has anyone been in a similar situation? What realistic options do I have when the repair costs almost as much as the remaining loan balance?

I’m in a tight financial situation right now, so I’m trying to make the best choice.

2018 330i