2012 320i automatic that's listed as an f30, with the front and interior of an e90? Also has the (I think) 8 speed auto and 4 cylinder engine but correct me if I'm wrong. So wtf is this

Picked up my dream car. First photo had to be under the hood.

For context, this is my third BMW, and I’ve genuinely loved owning every one of them. I bought my first BMW, traded it in to upgrade to my second, and eventually did the same thing to get my third.
I purchased this car in 2021. It is a 2018 BMW, and it recently reached 103,000 miles. Until now, it had been extremely reliable.

A few months ago, the car started smoking and would not drive. I took it to a shop, and they discovered that oil had somehow been put into the coolant system. The entire cooling system had to be replaced. I was hesitant to spend that much money because of the mileage, but the car had always been good to me, so I went ahead with the repair. It cost approximately $4,000.
Now, barely six months later, the car started shaking while I was driving. I continued driving it for a short time and scheduled an appointment to have it checked, but before I could get it to the shop, it suddenly stopped in the middle of the road and displayed a “drivetrain malfunction” warning.
Because I am now living in a different state, I took it to a different independent BMW shop. They told me the engine timing is off, there are problems affecting all four cylinders, and there may be additional engine damage. The estimated repair cost is around $7,000. The mechanic said that, considering the age and mileage of the car, he does not believe it is worth repairing.

The problem is that I still owe approximately $9,000 on the loan and make payments of $290 per month. It almost feels like I have no choice but to repair it so I can either sell it or trade it in, but spending another $7,000 also feels extremely risky. The mechanic made it clear that even after fixing the current problem, there is no guarantee that something else will not go wrong.
He also found oil residue still present in the vehicle, even though the entire coolant system was supposedly replaced. He believes the remaining contamination may have contributed to the drivetrain malfunction and the current engine problems.

I know BMWs have a reputation for becoming expensive once they reach higher mileage, but I truly never had major issues with any of mine before this. This is also the first BMW I have owned that has gone over 100,000 miles.

I am honestly devastated because it feels like I may have to let the car go, but I cannot even afford to sell it while still owing so much on the loan. Also I love this car and it feels like a gut punch bc this was so left field.
At the same time, putting another $7,000 into it just to possibly sell or trade it afterward seems like a huge gamble.

Has anyone been in a similar situation? What realistic options do I have when the repair costs almost as much as the remaining loan balance?

I’m in a tight financial situation right now, so I’m trying to make the best choice.

2018 330i

Since yesterday, the engine has been misfiring as soon as I rev it up. Probably engine trouble, right?
220,000 km, model year 2015, 425d

Bearing failure? Engine damaged or possible to repair for small value?

Yesterday I noticed a horrendous clunking in my e70 so pulled over and got a tow home. The sound seems to be coming from the back of the engine, it gets faster and louder with revs but is near silent at idle, the pace is sometimes regular but sometimes the rate of the clunks is very irregular. I’ve pulled off three serpentine belt and it’s still there so it’s not a bad pulley, the oil level on the electronic dipstick says it’s ok but who knows how trust worthy it is, when i open the oil cap the noise gets louder which really worrying. I’m thinking it might be vanos bolt but this is an 07 30si which apparently isn’t covered under the recall, any help much appreciated.

Would love to get a second set of eyes on this M4 that I’m considering buying. It’s a 2015 manual convertible with close to 50K miles and a pretty decent CarFax. I confirmed with the dealer that it is bone stock and the one accident that is listed was cosmetic and fixed. They want $34,400 for it.

I’m purchasing it from out of town which adds to the anxiety since I won’t be able to see it first hand or drive it! But I did get a ton of videos and close ups from the salesman and am planning to do a pre purchase inspection from a mechanic close by.

I’ve had an X3 M40i and I currently own an i4 so I’m relatively familiar with BMWs but this is the first pre-owned one I’d be purchasing and the first M as well, so please let me know if anything stands out to you or if there’s something I should be looking for or aware of for those of you more familiar.

I’m especially excited that it’s both a convertible AND a manual! I know not everyone likes convertibles, but this is a weekend car for me and I’ve always wanted one. The fact that it’s a manual is the cherry on top and I feel like it’s a super unique spec. I’m just scared since I’m basically buying it sight unseen and want to make sure I know what I’m getting into.

Thanks all!

I’m looking at buying a used 2021 BMW 228i Gran Coupe with about 42,000 miles from a BMW dealership, and I wanted to get some opinions before I pull the trigger. The one I’ve been looking at is listed for $25,000, but when I check KBB and other resale values, it seems like it’s only worth around $19,000 depending on the condition. Does that sound overpriced, or is that pretty normal for a BMW dealership? If I decide to go look at it, what are the biggest things I should inspect or ask about, and what are the best ways to negotiate the price down? This would be my first BMW, so I’d appreciate any advice on what I should look out for or what kind of leverage I might have when it comes to getting a better deal.

Hello bois! My friend is a 2 braincell BMW hater, i need ya'lls mercedes memes(derogatory).

Not trying to start a debate here please, just memes so i can dunk on him a bit.

Good day gents.

Just bought a 2027 M3 Competition and ended up getting talked into the wheel and tire protection plan, which added about $60 a month.

I'm thinking about lowering the car a couple of inches, but I had a question about the warranty. If I lower it and the tires end up rubbing a little, would that void the wheel and tire coverage? I came across a few posts saying that if there's any rubbing, warranty claims can be denied.

I called the finance manager at the dealership, but he wasn't much help. He just quickly told me it would be fine as long as I used BMW-approved springs. I was hoping someone could clarify whether minor rubbing would actually affect coverage or if that's only the case when the damage is directly caused by the suspension modification. Thanks!

Hi all, after 300k km’s extreme driving pleasure my G31 wears out on the unoffical arm-rest… since a few days i get sticky gue on my elbow. Something that can be replaced by me?

Hi all,

I got myself a 2021 G20 330d. I am blown away by the fuel efficiency it has in city traffic but I have some worries regarding the costing function. My previous F30 330d also had this function but all it did was decouple the transmission and just roll in neutral which was already good. The G20 takes it a step further, if I noticed correctly, and turns the engine off while coasting.

Taking yesterdays drive for example, out of 60 minutes of driving (30 kms) the engine was turned off for 20 minutes and it coasted for 8.6 kms.

How safe is constant start stop usage that frequently in the long run? Can anyone who owned a B57 for a longer period share some insight?

I’ve heard the reason that MyBMW doesn’t work for the 2014 320i is because it relies on a 3g internet and that’s all phased out. Does anyone know a way to mod the car, and make the app work for it again? I’d love to be able to track my car, use the phone key, and see the stats again

Super comfortable car, the rear seats have bolsters for the left and right passengers.

Beautiful

Looking for some opinions on whether this is a fair deal on a custom ordered 2027 M2 xDrive. I know there’s practically little to no data on what people are paying for this, but maybe I can knock down some more on the dealer fees?

Vehicle:

2027 BMW M2 xDrive

Custom order

MSRP: $77,600

No market adjustment

Final breakdown:

MSRP/Selling Price: $77,600
Sales Tax: $4,831.10
Documentation Fee: $1,298
Electronic Filing Fee: $598
License Fee: $475
PTA Fee: $189
Other Fees: $5.50

Final Out-the-Door Price: $84,996.60

Originally they wanted: $86,368.20

Build:
• 2027 BMW M2 xDrive Coupe
• Zandvoort Blue
• Black Vernasca Leather w/ M Color Highlight

Options:
• Remote Engine Start
• 19"/20" M Dual-Spoke Style 930M Silver Wheels
• M Compound Brakes w/ Red Calipers
• M Shadowline Lights
• Carbon Fiber Interior Trim
• Adaptive Lights
• Active Cruise Control (ACC)
• Wireless Device Charging
• Live Cockpit Pro (Navigation

A few notes:

There was a $995 Preferred Luxe package on the deal, but I had them remove it.

The dealer is requiring a $2,500 deposit, but they have agreed in writing that it is fully refundable.

This is not tied to a guaranteed allocation yet—I’d be waiting for an allocation.

Financing would likely be through PenFed at 5.14% for 60 months.

I’m located in South Florida

Does ~$85k OTD seem like a fair deal?

Hi everyone, I have a 116i pre lci with an N13 engine. In the city, it consumes about 8-9 km/L. I don't have any engine warning lights active or anything else. I'd like to know if this is normal consumption. Thanks.

My 2014 328D got towed 7/20 at 9pm, I went to pick it up and asked if they used a flat bed, they said no but we used Dollie’s so it’s fine. My husband was adamant that they screwed the car up, I drove 3 miles back to my house and it lost power and threw a drivetrain malfunction code. I towed it to a bmw dealership, they’re saying they’ve worked on it for 4 hours and still don’t understand where the power lost came from.

Has anyone ever dealt with this? I’m documenting everything, I have a timeline. This car has never caused me any issues so I find it really hard to believe it’s just a coincidence

I have about a year to go and my tires are about 3.5 inches left. I realized the continental cross contacts on the X5 are trash, seems to only give about 25k miles as I look online. BMW wants about $2k, can’t u get them from somewhere for much less especially since I want a different brand that has longer wear? I see Costco has Bridgestones bmw original for $1500 65k. First time having to replace tires but have 5 bmw leases.

Hello Chat,

I have a 2014 BMW 335i with the N55B30 EWG engine. It's currently running a Stage 2+ tune, and I'm experiencing an issue with the oil level.

The problem isn't a physical oil leak. Instead, the iDrive/computer keeps reporting that the oil level is at the minimum and asks me to add 1 liter of oil. I already replaced the oil level sensor, but the problem still persists.

There are no visible oil leaks under the car, and there's no white smoke coming from the exhaust.

I have an upcoming road trip of about 400 km each way (around 800 km total), and I'm not sure what to do.

Would you recommend simply adding the 1 liter of oil and taking the trip, or should I cancel the vacation and have the car inspected first?

I just got a 2012 335i 2d convertible and I had already planned on tossing some money into it and doing some cosmetic stuff but as I look for things I am reading about how a lot of things for this specific model are not made or sold. Is there anywhere that someone can point me for things that are EXCLUSIVELY for this model? a pic below for reference tho she’s clean and drives nice! M sport package as well!

So I just got a BMW M340i last night; black on white with almost no packages on it. I had a few questions regarding my next steps with what to do, as I myself have never been like a huge car person

1. How important will the shadowline package be, and is it worth adding to my car? Will it really affect insurance since it’s technically after market, even though it’s still a bmw sponsored option?
   
2. I bought this car with the expectation of buying MPE as well, but would you say that it’s worth the money? I’m willing to spend it, but I just want to know if it will make a noticeable, positive different first. Also, will my insurance consider it a mod since the exhaust will be different from the one I bought?
   
3. What other settings is important to set inside the car? I never even touched the sound settings of my last car, which is definitely something I regret because it made a huge difference that I did not expect. Any other settings that first time owners often ignore that they should be more aware of?
   
4. With a sports car, I’m inclined to drift, rapid accelerate, rev the engine, etc. How bad are these for the car because I also care about reliability. Which ones of these should I completely avoid if I want this car to last me a good 10-15 years?(Is 10-15 years even a realistic expectation)

I bought my car used at 52k KM (now at almost 56k) for 39k CAD out the door final price (bought 2-3 months ago). Had some dings and a dent which I fixed later. I paid 10k down and financed the rest cause I didn’t want to get rid of a lot of cash at once. For months the car didn’t sell cause of some of the visual issues and they dropped the price from 39k all the way down to 31k as it sat in the lot for over 5 months.

I took the longest open loan cause I want low payments and plan to pay it off much before even half the loan term length has been hit.

Touchwood it’s reliable and very fun and the interior is also AMAZING (I grew into it especially the lights, the screen is still meh). I love the looks and constantly have people looking which is something I don’t really like that much. It’s just a 230i yet people record it and go around giving me thumbs up and stuff. Nice sometimes but annoying most of the times for a shy introverted guy.

But regardless, NOW, I come across a 2019 440i xDrive not a too crazy spec, for 39k before tax, driven 57k KM.

I was thinking if the dealer gives me a good price for my car, would it be worth to trade it in at almost even price? My friend told me he thinks I can get a good price for my car cause I fixed the issues like the dent, paint chips (although some around the car still exist).

Although I think it’ll be around what I paid for it before tax.

Right now I have a bumper scratch I need to fix (hit and run, it’s a paint scratch nothing else, insurance is covering it). But outside of that, I’ve really been wanting a B58 and was originally shopping for a 340 but they were just absurd in pricing where I am (not too many options). After driving the 230, I was sold cause of how nimble/light it felt.

Would you do this? I’m going to inquire and ask them but I’m sure the scratch will come up and why I want to sell but I’ll just be honest…B58..

Would you make this trade if they can even it out and keep everything basically the same in terms of pricing?

The previous owner had shitty aftermarket flood light holograms and they both were projecting images with cracks in them like the one pictured above. I bought OEM ones to replace them less than 2 years ago and the passenger side one is now showing the same type of cracked image.

I’m in south Florida so not sure if maybe the heat or moisture causes this but any tips or suggestions to help with this would be great. The OEM replacements were around $150 I believe and it seems a bit ridiculous to replace them again after I just did so.

My friend brought out a red micro fiber towel, and began using it on the rear of my car, and some pink staining came out and it won’t come off easily. Is there anything I can do to get it off ?