Hello everyone!

I got into the hobby just this spring, but instantly got addicted. Me and my friends were only shooting at an 3D archery course so far that is half an hour drive away, but we also wanted something we could reach in less time. We found a safe place where we are allowed to shoot and already built us some targets. We don't want to fiddle around with our quivers there, so we were searching for solutions. As someone who has access to a 3D-Printer I instantly searched for some models, but all of them had some kind of ground spike that would not work in our case. So I fired up fusion and began to design this piece you can see here.
The idea behind it is that it has two parts fused together. An inner tube, where your arrows are in and and outer "belly" that can be filled with stones, sand, water, whatever you have on hand. That way even a bit of a stronger wind couldn't knock it over so far. It takes up quite a bit of filament, but buying something would have been even more expensive.

Why am I posting this here? Well, I thought maybe someone else is interested in my creation, so I uploaded it to makerworld where it is accessible for free for everyone.

You can find the model here -> click

Let me know how you like it, happy shooting everyone :)

Hello! So, I've been into compound archery for say, just three weeks, but only today I got to have it seemed dialed it down and coming from an Oly Recurve background, I relied on my recurve muscle memory. Is adopting my recurve form alright for compound?

PS. This is just 8m form shooting at a friend's cafe who has an archery range 24/7 open, and I shot 2 in the morning, thr actual range I shoot opens later so its just mostly form shooting and thumb button execution to avoid misfires again (A story for another day)

Yes, it's in my bedroom. My wife said it's looking good!

He-Man just arrived on Amazon Prime. I missed it at the cinema so decided to put it on. I'm 3 minutes in and instantly distracted by the bows. I thought we had got past this 😭

hello guys.

So I made this contraption a few days ago. inspired from the astra shot trainer and few vids from Xiaohongshu archery contents.

for the materials. I used a canvas belt. one cushion straps for a backpack. hard plastic loop and clip. and 4mm Paracord, it has 2 parts instead of 3 like the one I used as reference. and only tied to my arm, I made the part wrapping my arm to be easily adjustable

while I already tested this tool myself multiple times a few days ago. and showing no wear for now. is there any safety concern should I worry about?

while I'm not planning to sell this one. my intention was to gift it to my junior members from the local club I attend to for their training, definitely made with new materials instead ofc. thank you for your attention and your insights would be helpful,

So I'm hoping to hit some 3d walking ranges on a road trip.

What should I be aware of as far as etiquette on the range with other shooters? (Aside from the obvious don't shoot with people downrange)

Is it similar to golf where you just kinda wait for the "tee" to clear ?

If you're not comfortable shooting say 80yds yet is it fine to approach when safe to a closer distance to make a shot?

Any info would be great as I'm flying solo

Shooting 26 lbs.

It’s always surprising how a cold shot can be very much accurate.

Obligatory Bow ID: MR Tiron 68” 115@34” 84@28”
Technique: Ming Dynasty Gao Ying under the Tian-Ma school
Target: Reinhardt 18-1 (goated target)
Thumb ring: Vermil victory brass
Arrow: alibow thick heavy Manchu shaft 100 spine 1580gr 37.75”

Hi, as title says, has anyone tried the wiawis ns-g2 limbs? What should I expect coming from an entry-mid level set of limbs (Fivics Vellator V3 #34)?

I am looking to upgrade my limbs, currently shooting on a WiaWis Meta LX.

Found My old Childhood samick stingray. Is is unsafe toe shoot? And can it me repaird

Hi everyone,

I'm about to buy my first recurve bow and I'd love to get some feedback.

I'm 193 cm (6'4") tall and 76 kilos and my draw length is between 31 and 32 inches. The poundage I've chosen is based on recommendations to keep the actual draw weight reasonable at my draw length, as I understand I'll be pulling more weight than what's marked on the limbs.

The setup is: - Hoyt RCRV Comp riser – 25" - Winners Explore W1 wood/fiberglass limbs – 70", rated at 16 lbs - Fast Flight Plus string for a 70" bow

This would give me a 70" bow overall.

Do you think 16 lb limbs are too light for someone my size, or does it make sense considering my 31–32" draw length? (I am trying to avoid should back issues, as I have had them in the past in other sports) Would you change anything else in the setup for a complete beginner?

Any advice is very welcome. Thanks!

I am not sure if this is the correct subreddit to post this - if it is not I apologize. I am a big fan of a RPG game and was thinking about contracting a bowyer to recreate a fantasy bow design as I picked up archery as a new hobby.

Could something like this bow realistically be manufactured today (using modern composites, 3D printing over a functional core, or traditional horn/sinew construction)?

Would it actually function as a shootable bow, or would the geometry, weird weight distribution, and rigid protrusions ruin the draw/energy transfer?

What specific modifications would a bowyer have to make to turn this concept into a safe, working bow without completely destroying the aesthetic?

How expensive would something like this be?

So pretty much what the title says. I started archery about 3 months ago as a cheaper alternative to firearms (cause my god shooting at a range is expensive) and I’ve been absolutely enjoying it since. So far I’ve been renting and shooting at 2 locations, and both places have incredibly instructive and helpful staff (one does $5 shooting with instructions on weekends), and it’s been fantastic.

Anyways I started with a #30 64” bow and quickly outgrew it. For the most part I’ve been shooting with a #50 62”, #42 66”, and a #35 66” bow (all takedowns). The #50 is too short for me and so my effective draw weight is higher, but even then it takes 2-3 hours of usage before it tires me out. My aim has been okay (48+ points with 6 arrows at 30 yards consistently) though I imagine most people are capable of this if not better given the time frame. I’m just including these for reference.

Couple of the instructors have advised I get an ILF for my first, #40-#42 70”. I have a budget of $350 for the bow not including arrows, and wanted to get some recommendation’s on riser and limb combinations.

*I’m new to this so sorry if I’m using the wrong terminology or in general 😅*

Thank you in advance!

For context I'm shooting a 25lb samick sage

20 years bow hunting the Midwest and have been using my Mathew’s chill x for roughly 8 years. Looking to move into a shorter axle to axle bow for better use out of a deer blind and tree stand. I’m not married to Mathew’s but the new arc looks nice. But I’d also consider a used older Mathew’s Vx or possibly the new Darton Tritech. Any suggestions for a good jump?

Thanks for any input,

I bought a mission stryde about 2 months ago. Once I got it shot great for the first 200 shots took it back to the shop to paper tune and shop can’t get it tuned. Sent it with another guy and he’s tried adjusting the timing the knock point tried going from a buscuit to a drop away and it still tunes a 1.5 inches low and I can’t get a consistent pattern. Anyone else had this problem or any ideas?

This is my son's practice bow for Scouts. Anyone know if I can purchase one missing rest pin or do I need to replace the entire rest assembly?

I don't usually use a stabilizer, clicked or other parts just my riser, limbs, strings and sight. Just to get a feel of my bow. I feel stabilizers and the other extras make my job very easy but i like a good challenge sometimes :))

Hi folks,

I want to experiment with bamboo arrows. I did a look around and chatted with my bud Claude, it seems that putting tips on and nocks on wouldn't be as simple as with the carbons. I have the tools for fletching and know a bit around in general, not a pro, but an advanced newbie.

My main motivation is fear of carbon arrows exploding. I've had a few shatter on hitting a rebar inside a 3D target, or ricocheting because of a close miss and cracking or splitting against a metal object. Just the last weekend, I split another archer's carbon arrow with mine perpendicularly, no clue how that happened, as mine was straight on the money. No close calls yet, but it will eventually happen. My understanding is that arrows made from natural materials disintegrate more gracefully. Cheers!

They've been out for more than a year but I've seen pretty much no feebback on these, except from the review video of Jake Kaminski.

Has anyone tried them here?

There are many ways to deal with vibration and sound of the bow:

- tuning the brace height and tiller

- different string materials

- arrow weight

- string dampeners

- on-limb dampeners (e.g. limbsavers)

- build-in riser dampeners

- carbon riser

- dampeners on upper and lower riser weights (e.g. a-bomb)

- barebow-specific dampened central weights (e.g. Kaminsky dampened weight)

- taping the limb-riser contact area

- taping the limb-string contact area

So, what do you recommend and do not recommend, what do you run on your barebow?

I only go shooting like once or twice a week, and sometimes not at all. Ive had to replace the bowstring once already early this year and it looks like I'm about to have to replace it again.

Is there something i can do or purchase to slow or stop this fraying?

Bow is a 45 lb recurve. String makes a loud CLANG as it crashes against the limb. My understanding is that's fairly normal for recurves