Yes, it's in my bedroom. My wife said it's looking good!

He-Man just arrived on Amazon Prime. I missed it at the cinema so decided to put it on. I'm 3 minutes in and instantly distracted by the bows. I thought we had got past this 😭

Shooting 26 lbs.

It’s always surprising how a cold shot can be very much accurate.

Obligatory Bow ID: MR Tiron 68” 115@34” 84@28”
Technique: Ming Dynasty Gao Ying under the Tian-Ma school
Target: Reinhardt 18-1 (goated target)
Thumb ring: Vermil victory brass
Arrow: alibow thick heavy Manchu shaft 100 spine 1580gr 37.75”

I am not sure if this is the correct subreddit to post this - if it is not I apologize. I am a big fan of a RPG game and was thinking about contracting a bowyer to recreate a fantasy bow design as I picked up archery as a new hobby.

Could something like this bow realistically be manufactured today (using modern composites, 3D printing over a functional core, or traditional horn/sinew construction)?

Would it actually function as a shootable bow, or would the geometry, weird weight distribution, and rigid protrusions ruin the draw/energy transfer?

What specific modifications would a bowyer have to make to turn this concept into a safe, working bow without completely destroying the aesthetic?

How expensive would something like this be?

I've been shooting recurve for over ten years. While I had my fair share of elbow bruises due to bad form early on, I've never once had anything close to "string slap". I've only shot a handful of different bows in my entire life, mostly between 25-50#. Have I just been lucky with the particular bows I've shot? Maybe I have weird form?

20 years bow hunting the Midwest and have been using my Mathew’s chill x for roughly 8 years. Looking to move into a shorter axle to axle bow for better use out of a deer blind and tree stand. I’m not married to Mathew’s but the new arc looks nice. But I’d also consider a used older Mathew’s Vx or possibly the new Darton Tritech. Any suggestions for a good jump?

Thanks for any input,

I bought a mission stryde about 2 months ago. Once I got it shot great for the first 200 shots took it back to the shop to paper tune and shop can’t get it tuned. Sent it with another guy and he’s tried adjusting the timing the knock point tried going from a buscuit to a drop away and it still tunes a 1.5 inches low and I can’t get a consistent pattern. Anyone else had this problem or any ideas?

So pretty much what the title says. I started archery about 3 months ago as a cheaper alternative to firearms (cause my god shooting at a range is expensive) and I’ve been absolutely enjoying it since. So far I’ve been renting and shooting at 2 locations, and both places have incredibly instructive and helpful staff (one does $5 shooting with instructions on weekends), and it’s been fantastic.

Anyways I started with a #30 64” bow and quickly outgrew it. For the most part I’ve been shooting with a #50 62”, #42 66”, and a #35 66” bow (all takedowns). The #50 is too short for me and so my effective draw weight is higher, but even then it takes 2-3 hours of usage before it tires me out. My aim has been okay (48+ points with 6 arrows at 30 yards consistently) though I imagine most people are capable of this if not better given the time frame. I’m just including these for reference.

Couple of the instructors have advised I get an ILF for my first, #40-#42 70”. I have a budget of $350 for the bow not including arrows, and wanted to get some recommendation’s on riser and limb combinations.

*I’m new to this so sorry if I’m using the wrong terminology or in general 😅*

Thank you in advance!

For context I'm shooting a 25lb samick sage

I don't usually use a stabilizer, clicked or other parts just my riser, limbs, strings and sight. Just to get a feel of my bow. I feel stabilizers and the other extras make my job very easy but i like a good challenge sometimes :))

This is my son's practice bow for Scouts. Anyone know if I can purchase one missing rest pin or do I need to replace the entire rest assembly?

They've been out for more than a year but I've seen pretty much no feebback on these, except from the review video of Jake Kaminski.

Has anyone tried them here?

There are many ways to deal with vibration and sound of the bow:

- tuning the brace height and tiller

- different string materials

- arrow weight

- string dampeners

- on-limb dampeners (e.g. limbsavers)

- build-in riser dampeners

- carbon riser

- dampeners on upper and lower riser weights (e.g. a-bomb)

- barebow-specific dampened central weights (e.g. Kaminsky dampened weight)

- taping the limb-riser contact area

- taping the limb-string contact area

So, what do you recommend and do not recommend, what do you run on your barebow?

I only go shooting like once or twice a week, and sometimes not at all. Ive had to replace the bowstring once already early this year and it looks like I'm about to have to replace it again.

Is there something i can do or purchase to slow or stop this fraying?

Bow is a 45 lb recurve. String makes a loud CLANG as it crashes against the limb. My understanding is that's fairly normal for recurves

I'm looking into manufacturing my own arrow shafts from some recycled old-growth douglas fir flooring I have. The dowel-making method I've found that seems to be easiest is to run 11/32" or 5/16" square rods along a router table with a roundover bit. The problem is I can't find a roundover bit with an 11/32" radius, so I think I'm stuck with 5/16".

It's fine, really. 5/16" is probably better anyway for my 40 lb bow, but I like having options and wanted to check if anyone knows of an 11/32" roundover bit that exists, or if people just use a 45° chamfer bit and then sand it round with a drill?

Hi everyone, just started getting into archery and I’ve been trying to get a nicer sight that has some good micro adjustability without really breaking the bank!

Couldn’t figure out how to post it in the last post just wanted to show it off.

Hi folks,

I want to experiment with bamboo arrows. I did a look around and chatted with my bud Claude, it seems that putting tips on and nocks on wouldn't be as simple as with the carbons. I have the tools for fletching and know a bit around in general, not a pro, but an advanced newbie.

My main motivation is fear of carbon arrows exploding. I've had a few shatter on hitting a rebar inside a 3D target, or ricocheting because of a close miss and cracking or splitting against a metal object. Just the last weekend, I split another archer's carbon arrow with mine perpendicularly, no clue how that happened, as mine was straight on the money. No close calls yet, but it will eventually happen. My understanding is that arrows made from natural materials disintegrate more gracefully. Cheers!

I recently took up archery and it’s been a lot of fun. I bought a take down recurve because the cost of renting every time was starting to stack up. So far, I have the bow, a stringer, a sight, and a hip quiver. The bow has an arrow rest, nocking point, and fingersavers. I’m looking to just stick to indoor target shooting for now. Anything else I should add to my collection? Also any advice on qol stuff and etiquette would be appreciated as well. Thanks

Got my 340 spined arrows (10.3 gpp shafts) tuned to shoot bullet holes out of my Bowtech Ascend.

If I get much lighter shafts (7.8 gpp), but same 340 spine, same point weight, same vanes, same straightens, same length, etc. will the tune be the same?? Obviously the sight pins would need to be moved since arrow speed will increase, but will the new arrows yield bullet holes or would it require re-tuning the bow?