20 years bow hunting the Midwest and have been using my Mathew’s chill x for roughly 8 years. Looking to move into a shorter axle to axle bow for better use out of a deer blind and tree stand. I’m not married to Mathew’s but the new arc looks nice. But I’d also consider a used older Mathew’s Vx or possibly the new Darton Tritech. Any suggestions for a good jump?

Thanks for any input,

For context I'm shooting a 25lb samick sage

Shooting 26 lbs.

I am not sure if this is the correct subreddit to post this - if it is not I apologize. I am a big fan of a RPG game and was thinking about contracting a bowyer to recreate a fantasy bow design as I picked up archery as a new hobby.

Could something like this bow realistically be manufactured today (using modern composites, 3D printing over a functional core, or traditional horn/sinew construction)?

Would it actually function as a shootable bow, or would the geometry, weird weight distribution, and rigid protrusions ruin the draw/energy transfer?

What specific modifications would a bowyer have to make to turn this concept into a safe, working bow without completely destroying the aesthetic?

How expensive would something like this be?

He-Man just arrived on Amazon Prime. I missed it at the cinema so decided to put it on. I'm 3 minutes in and instantly distracted by the bows. I thought we had got past this 😭

It’s always surprising how a cold shot can be very much accurate.

I'm looking into manufacturing my own arrow shafts from some recycled old-growth douglas fir flooring I have. The dowel-making method I've found that seems to be easiest is to run 11/32" or 5/16" square rods along a router table with a roundover bit. The problem is I can't find a roundover bit with an 11/32" radius, so I think I'm stuck with 5/16".

It's fine, really. 5/16" is probably better anyway for my 40 lb bow, but I like having options and wanted to check if anyone knows of an 11/32" roundover bit that exists, or if people just use a 45° chamfer bit and then sand it round with a drill?

Hi folks,

I want to experiment with bamboo arrows. I did a look around and chatted with my bud Claude, it seems that putting tips on and nocks on wouldn't be as simple as with the carbons. I have the tools for fletching and know a bit around in general, not a pro, but an advanced newbie.

My main motivation is fear of carbon arrows exploding. I've had a few shatter on hitting a rebar inside a 3D target, or ricocheting because of a close miss and cracking or splitting against a metal object. Just the last weekend, I split another archer's carbon arrow with mine perpendicularly, no clue how that happened, as mine was straight on the money. No close calls yet, but it will eventually happen. My understanding is that arrows made from natural materials disintegrate more gracefully. Cheers!

This is my son's practice bow for Scouts. Anyone know if I can purchase one missing rest pin or do I need to replace the entire rest assembly?

Got my 340 spined arrows (10.3 gpp shafts) tuned to shoot bullet holes out of my Bowtech Ascend.

If I get much lighter shafts (7.8 gpp), but same 340 spine, same point weight, same vanes, same straightens, same length, etc. will the tune be the same?? Obviously the sight pins would need to be moved since arrow speed will increase, but will the new arrows yield bullet holes or would it require re-tuning the bow?

So pretty much what the title says. I started archery about 3 months ago as a cheaper alternative to firearms (cause my god shooting at a range is expensive) and I’ve been absolutely enjoying it since. So far I’ve been renting and shooting at 2 locations, and both places have incredibly instructive and helpful staff (one does $5 shooting with instructions on weekends), and it’s been fantastic.

Anyways I started with a #30 64” bow and quickly outgrew it. For the most part I’ve been shooting with a #50 62”, #42 66”, and a #35 66” bow (all takedowns). The #50 is too short for me and so my effective draw weight is higher, but even then it takes 2-3 hours of usage before it tires me out. My aim has been okay (48+ points with 6 arrows at 30 yards consistently) though I imagine most people are capable of this if not better given the time frame. I’m just including these for reference.

Couple of the instructors have advised I get an ILF for my first, #40-#42 70”. I have a budget of $350 for the bow not including arrows, and wanted to get some recommendation’s on riser and limb combinations.

*I’m new to this so sorry if I’m using the wrong terminology or in general 😅*

Thank you in advance!

Hello! Fairly new longbow shooter here, I've shot Olympic Recurve for the better part of a decade but wanted to try traditional. I am shooting the 62" Black Ridge Hybrid Longbow with a flemish twist string and I am having some trouble with the string hitting my hand as I release. It hits a little below my thumb, it started happening as soon as I got it but when I had looked online at the time the general consensus was that it was natural and I'd have to give the string some time to settle in.

Fast forward three months of daily hour shoots and its still happening. I've varied up my form and switched arrows and neither of those helped. Has anyone had any similar issues?

Edit: Added flair, I'm a little rusty to reddit

I don't know if that's what it's actually called but from reviewing slow mo of my shooting I noticed I tend to stick my neck forward and out to the side, cheating my draw length.

I shoot a longbow, not compound.

Wondering what drills you guys have found useful for this? Right now I can do it right when I think about it but if I don't think about it is 50/50, and I need to be able to think about my point of aim

My dad gave me his old pse brute x and I’m looking for a replacement string that isn’t $120… the only answers that came up on google were the 60x customs and I was wondering if there was anything for a little less what would also work.

Obligatory Bow ID: MR Tiron 68” 115@34” 84@28”
Technique: Ming Dynasty Gao Ying under the Tian-Ma school
Target: Reinhardt 18-1 (goated target)
Thumb ring: Vermil victory brass
Arrow: alibow thick heavy Manchu shaft 100 spine 1580gr 37.75”

The pillars of archery, according to Arab archery texts.

The study and teaching of traditional archery in Arab cultures is deeply ingrained in spiritual practice. Just as all five pillars are vital in Islam, the foundation of archery is equally supported by five pillars: the bow, the string, the arrow, the thumb-guard and the archer.

These, in turn, support the five pillars of successful shooting: accuracy, the infliction of injury, the ability to strike from distance, the ability to strike swiftly, and the ability to protect one's body.

Today, as more people are able to study traditional archery, it is easy to fall into the trap of over-specialising in specific skills, such as speed and stunt shooting. While some feats of skill are recorded in the same texts, the text warns of the faults of neglecting each principle.

It is important to remember that archery is a holistic practice, and that mastery of archery is built on these pillars.

Content: nusensei
Source: Latham, J. D., & Paterson, W. F. (1970). Saracen archery: An English version and exposition of a Mameluke work on archery (ca. A.D. 1368). The Holland Press.
Image: Generated by ChatGPT based off historical artwork
Layout: ChatGPT

Yes, it's in my bedroom. My wife said it's looking good!

They've been out for more than a year but I've seen pretty much no feebback on these, except from the review video of Jake Kaminski.

Has anyone tried them here?

I don't usually use a stabilizer, clicked or other parts just my riser, limbs, strings and sight. Just to get a feel of my bow. I feel stabilizers and the other extras make my job very easy but i like a good challenge sometimes :))

Hi everyone, just started getting into archery and I’ve been trying to get a nicer sight that has some good micro adjustability without really breaking the bank!

There are many ways to deal with vibration and sound of the bow:

- tuning the brace height and tiller

- different string materials

- arrow weight

- string dampeners

- on-limb dampeners (e.g. limbsavers)

- build-in riser dampeners

- carbon riser

- dampeners on upper and lower riser weights (e.g. a-bomb)

- barebow-specific dampened central weights (e.g. Kaminsky dampened weight)

- taping the limb-riser contact area

- taping the limb-string contact area

So, what do you recommend and do not recommend, what do you run on your barebow?

I’ve been shooting a carbon Inno riser and I’m considering moving to the Wiawis Meta series. Would the LX be the smoother / easier transition from an Inno?

I’ve heard from a few friends that quite a few high-level archers who tried the LX eventually sold them and switched to the newer 2026 EX.

Curious what people who have shot both think. Any real differences in feel, stability, or performance that make the EX worth it over the LX?

I have cross bow hunting for a few years now and have been fortunate enough to tag a couple bucks. Me and my girlfriend were talking the other night and thought it might be fun to get into compounds and shoot together. I have pretty much zero clue on where to start. Where do you guys recommend getting started. I’d like to have a better plan than buying a bow and figuring it out. Just looking for some advice. Thanks