Make the slicer NOT remove.my.profile when updating.

Make the app sync the filament type, color and nozzlensize.

Let us choose printer > extruder1> filament TYPE.

LAST BUT NOTNLEAST SAVE BASE PROFILE, NOT - Copy.

I want to see ONE PRINTER I HAVE and the right nozzle size, color, pla/petg etc. And gyroid infill YES GYROOOOIDD. and make a LOCK so no update or any added filaments don't reset it. Also I want to remove printers.

See images.

No problems whatsoever, all calibrations and setup passed first try.

Printed petg multicolor, pla own painted snake and 0.4mm PA6-CF (Was for a work mate, can not show.)

Here the snake. The red pixel errors.is from me painting in a hurry, forgetting some red spots in yellow etc. No bleeding at all, petg small strings here and there.

One thing I would add to the firmware:

After nozzle wipe when pooping, wipe again more front to remove the poop. Now it is always the next wipe which removes the last poop. Also if it is the last time using that color, please wipe before parking.

I might add stronger iridium magnets, the parked toolheads seem to barely hold, although I have ZERO ERRORS in 3254 toolchanges with the indx.

My aluminium Parts are soon here, so it only becomes better.

Ive been having some really bad stringing problems. PrusaSlicer and the printer are fully updated, and the filament is not the problem. This only happens when im printing multiple items on the same plate. When it's just one item the stringing is comparable to my other printers, but when it's multiple items it gets bad. Has anyone figured out a fix for this yet?

EDIT: Its happening on singles too. Just absolutely covered in stringing

When printing thin walled prints such as this on my mk4 the walls become warped and concaved. it is hard to see in the photos but the front and back are considerably warped outwards and the sides are both warped inwards. print is out of petg with the deafult settings in prusaslicer. is this a common thing or something setup wrong with the printer. thank you for your comments

I wanted to share one of my OpenSCAD projects that I recently finished, and that i am extremely happy about.

As someone who is fully blind, I spend a lot of time thinking about how physical spaces can be made accessible through touch.

Recently, I was contacted by the parent of a blind child whose new home is currently under construction. Their idea was to let their child become familiar with the layout before the house is even finished.

The architects sent me the IFC model of the building. I extracted the relevant geometry and used OpenSCAD to generate a tactile floor plan with Braille labels, which was then 3D printed.

This was done on my prusa xl, using most of the bed. This is exactly why I need a printer with a large bed, otherwise some of the details might have been too small.

I hope you like it :)

Happened to someone in their discord

I'm waiting a long time so I'll be able to do color change. I chose Prusa because of reliability, execution, and support.

Now, when indx is out (sort of) I'm just need to wait untill all the shit will pass by and everything will be resolved until they will be kind enough to give support to the Core One L version. And then! Maybe waiting more time (for maybe the c1l founders edition). Until then, my expensive 1 color 3d printer can't do fun stuff.

Tried to look for other alternatives like the Mmu3 and now I see the they decided to discontinue that because of the "upcoming" indx.

So frustrated. What can I do to have multi color?

Część jestem posiadaczem bambu a1 ale szukam bardziej otwartej drukarki, bambu mimo że drukuje dobrze denerwuje mnie zamknienty system mimo niby był otwarty, ale kamerka brak detekcji spagetii itp to dla mnie problem mimo że bardzo rzadko u mnie występuje myslałem na przejście na Prusa core one z 8 dyszami, finansowo jeszcze długo poczekam może 2/3 lata ale już robie poszukiwania myslicie że to dobry wybór? Jak chodzi o niezawodność dostęp do części jak i modyfikację?

(Tried search; but couldn't find a clear post with a list)

Any additional recommendations for parts to print prior to starting C1INDXFE assembly?

INDX Stock Parts

Core-one-indx-printed-parts - Reference Link

Printing Currently

prusa-indx-tool-dock-with-magnet-install-tool-magn/files - Install tool for the magnets and the Heatset design from Chris Hill

indx-tool-holder-brass-insert-version - As backup; printed this heatset version without the additional holes

Tentative & Neat

bondtech-indx-belt-helper-tool - Neat; but not sure if needed?

indx-xlcd-display-cover-updated - Neat.

INDX-sticker-jig - Neat.

core-one-belt-tensioner-pulley-to-take-a-threaded - Not sure if needed; but might be nice to have on-hand for the small amount of filament.

On List (PETG - XL5T):

indx-founders-plaque-magnet-holder - Neat

indx-rear-filament-sensors-holder-v2 - For SpacePi Setup

creality-spacepi-x4-double-rack-for-indx - For SpacePi Setup

onetop-modular-top-enclosure-for-prusa-core-one-co - Future Side-quest

Any insight / tips / models are highly appreciated

Hello, I am looking for tips and helpful information on improving the print quality when printing textured parts.

I am printing ASA (automotive application) on my Core One + using bumpmesh to apply a leather like texture. The prints are fairly good but the texture on more horizontal surfaces are less defined and rougher due to the seam.

0.15mm later height

Printing outer walls first

0.45mm line width

Slow print speed

Texture depth 0.5mm

I can provide other print settings when im in front of my computer if needed.

Increasing the texture size obviously helps but dosent match the original part. I'm exporting from bumpmesh with as fine of resolution and faces as possible.

The biggest issue I'm facing is the seams on the islanded textures create a rough surface.

Any tips greatly appreciated!

I am unsure whether to buy a Prusa or a Bambu Lab printer. I have a few questions for the Prusa printer. I have a budget of about 1000 Euros.

So it is either a prusa core one(Building Kit) or a bambu lab H2S(without AMS). I dont have a 3d printer so it would be my first.

1. Is the Prusa Core one a good option for a beginner?

2. Is it capable for functional prints, drone parts and cosplay parts?

3. Is the screen a touchscreen?

4. The core one printbed is way smaller than most other printers, is there a plan to give the printer a bigger printbed? Like 256x256? I have seen a few people using other print sheets to extend the printbed size.

5. The printer is quite expensive for the features, are there any other arguments for it other then it being an european printer?

6. Is there anything else the i need to buy or is the Core One Kit alone good to go? (I saw somewhere that someone reccomended a Accelerometer but i dont know why)

7. I have seen that they use custom nozzles for the Core One, but can i also use standard non prusa nozzles?

8. Do the printers ever go on sale? And have seen that there are 10% off codes, where can i get them?

Hi all, I’m fairly new to the Prusa world, came from Bambu to check out the goods on the C1L and I was always told they the balanced profiles helped eliminate the VFAs on the prints. I’m printing the Prusa helmet and am getting a lot of VFA (see picture). I am using Hatchbox Silk PLA using the Hatchbox profile, 0.20 Balanced profile

For context, the printer has HULA feet on it right now, sitting on top of a cement paver, which is sitting on top of a antivibration mat, on top of carpet

Putting aside there should have been very large "BETA" posted on every page for INDX along with other issues, Wow. I'm very excited seeing how this came out, to be clear these are all mixed colors and not loaded on my machine.

Full disclosure based on youtube videos and since I'm not printing in PLA, I opted for a purge tower, which is already way smaller than MMU. I expect these issues will get ironed out fairly quickly.

Question in a title. Have some experience with industrial laser cutters and other technical cnc equipment, looking to dive in 3d plastic. After some consideration, decided to get prusa instead of bambu. Gona use it mainly for personal stuff and friend requests like some small figurines or plastic parts, but also want to have possibility to do something complex if needed.

And side question: what is average lifespan of 3d printer in years if i use it on average 2-3 days per week?

Printing the Prusa planetary gears model in PETG, orange and white is Prusament, gray and blue are Polymaker and CookieCAD respectively. Love a good fidget and I wanted to do a 4 color print now that the nozzle cam is working: https://youtube.com/live/noKX9_35E-U?feature=share

I have been trying to get the very thin strings away (maybe even that called Oozing ?)

it gets really extreme when printing large objects, and it is basically almost covering the entire inner parts - makes it hard to get rid of post-print

Information:

- Mk4s with latest Released firmware (just updated a few days ago)

- PrusaSlicer 2.6.9

- Both spools are brand new Polymaker PETG, printed at 235C - taken pretty much directly from Prusament PETG

if needed I can just drop my settings - would be happy to get a direction and i'll try a bunch of new settings !

I ran a sequential (object-by-object) print on my Core One with INDX. The slicer accepted it and it does show the INDX head geometry in the collision check, but I don't think it factors in the travel the head makes when swapping filaments, only the normal printing moves.

Print failed. Could have been the head clipping a finished object, could have just been bad first layer adhesion, I can't tell from what's left of it.

Has anyone actually run sequential prints with INDX and multiple colors? Did it work, and if so did you leave extra clearance between objects than you normally would? Or is this just not supported and the slicer isn't warning about it?

Is there anyway to force ironing of the entire top surface once all colours are down? Instead of ironing each colour individually after each one is down

Chinese 3D Printer Exports Jump 58.7%, Trade Surplus Tops $1.54 Billion

Is there a consensus on what software is a good balance between functionality and ease of use for those new to 3D printing? I'm looking between Solidworks and Fusion. What is everyone's recommendation?

Been having issues with the first layer just not being squished down enough at all . Just about everything comes off the plate with every print . It’s really getting kind of annoying at this point . Did the new firmware update and updated the profiles in Prusaslicer to match ….. needless to say it didn’t work