Our June Print of the Month contest hit big! It's always a pleasure to see what the community is working on and printing. We're changing things up again, so join in for the chance to enter the raffle and win a Prusa Starter Paint Set + Miniature Painting for Beginners Course Bundle, as well as 3x 1050 Prusameters for selected top entries!
We're rolling into the July 2026 round with a splash of color! This month's special theme is: Colorful Prints. Whether it's dual-color, multi-material, dyed, hand-painted, or just an unreasonably vibrant single-color print, show us your most eye-catching work. Fitting timing too, since our raffle winner this round could put that new paint set straight to use on their next entry!
Raffle Winner
Our raffle winner for the June Prusa Backpack by Braasi is: u/lostboy73! Congratulations, and I've sent you a DM with more information! Be sure to join us on Discord/YouTube for the stream each month (1st Thursday of the month) to join in on the fun (not required to win).
Calibration issues are usually something to fix, not print on purpose, but here we are. Turns out a blocky, glitched-out tugboat prints just as cleanly on resin as it does on FDM. A fun reinterpretation of the classic Benchy, modeled entirely in Blender.
Every community has that one person quietly out-engineering the $100+ commercial options in their garage, and this month it's HackMan3D. Four months of work went into this fully DIY, Hall-effect 6DoF space mouse for navigating CAD software and slicers alike. Here's hoping the "should I open-source it" question gets answered with a yes.
Some mods you admire, others you actually want to build yourself, and this is the second kind. A full magnetic LEGO-compatible skin for the CORE One, covering everything down to the Nextruder, that snaps on and off without touching the printer underneath. Model's up on Printables if you want to give your own CORE One the treatment.
When going out, make sure you go out in style! Nice printable fashion is sure to make you the star on any outdoor and beach setting!
The winners will receive their Prusameters within a week.
How to Participate
If you haven't joined before, here's a quick reminder of how it works:
Create a post with your print (anything you have printed on a Prusa3D printer).
Add the flair: "Print of the Month".
Credit the model and its author.
Include your Printables handle so we can send you Prusameters if you win.
Designer Exception: Don't have a 3D printer? If you have a project on Printables, link one of the MAKES of it. This needs to be a real print done by someone and submitted as a make, and the model must be hosted on your own Printables account.
Rules
We'll go through all the prints at the end of the month and announce the winners at the start of the next one.
Only a single entry counts for the raffle per Printables/Reddit account, but we encourage you to share as many prints as you like.
Raffle Eligibility: Accounts must be 1+ month old and posts must have at least 10 upvotes. Exceptions are possible for high-quality posts from new users.
Extremely low-effort or duplicate/spam posts may be removed and disqualified at the moderator's discretion.
The entries are counted from the 1st of the month to the last day of the month, so no entry is missed.
The raffle draw is done on the monthly community live stream, on the first Thursday of every month (stream starting at 19:00 GMT+1, lasting about 2 hours). It's not required to be online to win.
If you enjoy this kind of contest, we'll keep going with new themes every month. The winning photos might also appear on our other social media channels to show off what our Reddit community can do. We're looking forward to seeing your prints!
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Special note: I'm sorry the post is extremely late this month, with all the INDX excitement things slipped away from me. I promise not to delay it so much again!
No problems whatsoever, all calibrations and setup passed first try.
Printed petg multicolor, pla own painted snake and 0.4mm PA6-CF (Was for a work mate, can not show.)
Here the snake. The red pixel errors.is from me painting in a hurry, forgetting some red spots in yellow etc. No bleeding at all, petg small strings here and there.
One thing I would add to the firmware:
After nozzle wipe when pooping, wipe again more front to remove the poop. Now it is always the next wipe which removes the last poop. Also if it is the last time using that color, please wipe before parking.
I might add stronger iridium magnets, the parked toolheads seem to barely hold, although I have ZERO ERRORS in 3254 toolchanges with the indx.
My aluminium Parts are soon here, so it only becomes better.
I wanted to share one of my OpenSCAD projects that I recently finished, and that i am extremely happy about.
As someone who is fully blind, I spend a lot of time thinking about how physical spaces can be made accessible through touch.
Recently, I was contacted by the parent of a blind child whose new home is currently under construction. Their idea was to let their child become familiar with the layout before the house is even finished.
The architects sent me the IFC model of the building. I extracted the relevant geometry and used OpenSCAD to generate a tactile floor plan with Braille labels, which was then 3D printed.
This was done on my prusa xl, using most of the bed. This is exactly why I need a printer with a large bed, otherwise some of the details might have been too small.
Make the slicer NOT remove.my.profile when updating.
Make the app sync the filament type, color and nozzlensize.
Let us choose printer > extruder1> filament TYPE.
LAST BUT NOTNLEAST SAVE BASE PROFILE, NOT - Copy.
I want to see ONE PRINTER I HAVE and the right nozzle size, color, pla/petg etc. And gyroid infill YES GYROOOOIDD. and make a LOCK so no update or any added filaments don't reset it. Also I want to remove printers.
Putting aside there should have been very large "BETA" posted on every page for INDX along with other issues, Wow. I'm very excited seeing how this came out, to be clear these are all mixed colors and not loaded on my machine.
Full disclosure based on youtube videos and since I'm not printing in PLA, I opted for a purge tower, which is already way smaller than MMU. I expect these issues will get ironed out fairly quickly.
Ive been having some really bad stringing problems. PrusaSlicer and the printer are fully updated, and the filament is not the problem. This only happens when im printing multiple items on the same plate. When it's just one item the stringing is comparable to my other printers, but when it's multiple items it gets bad. Has anyone figured out a fix for this yet?
EDIT: Its happening on singles too. Just absolutely covered in stringing
When printing thin walled prints such as this on my mk4 the walls become warped and concaved. it is hard to see in the photos but the front and back are considerably warped outwards and the sides are both warped inwards. print is out of petg with the deafult settings in prusaslicer. is this a common thing or something setup wrong with the printer. thank you for your comments
Hello, I am looking for tips and helpful information on improving the print quality when printing textured parts.
I am printing ASA (automotive application) on my Core One + using bumpmesh to apply a leather like texture. The prints are fairly good but the texture on more horizontal surfaces are less defined and rougher due to the seam.
0.15mm later height
Printing outer walls first
0.45mm line width
Slow print speed
Texture depth 0.5mm
I can provide other print settings when im in front of my computer if needed.
Increasing the texture size obviously helps but dosent match the original part. I'm exporting from bumpmesh with as fine of resolution and faces as possible.
The biggest issue I'm facing is the seams on the islanded textures create a rough surface.
Been having issues with the first layer just not being squished down enough at all . Just about everything comes off the plate with every print . It’s really getting kind of annoying at this point . Did the new firmware update and updated the profiles in Prusaslicer to match ….. needless to say it didn’t work
I ran a sequential (object-by-object) print on my Core One with INDX. The slicer accepted it and it does show the INDX head geometry in the collision check, but I don't think it factors in the travel the head makes when swapping filaments, only the normal printing moves.
Print failed. Could have been the head clipping a finished object, could have just been bad first layer adhesion, I can't tell from what's left of it.
Has anyone actually run sequential prints with INDX and multiple colors? Did it work, and if so did you leave extra clearance between objects than you normally would? Or is this just not supported and the slicer isn't warning about it?
Hi all, I’m fairly new to the Prusa world, came from Bambu to check out the goods on the C1L and I was always told they the balanced profiles helped eliminate the VFAs on the prints. I’m printing the Prusa helmet and am getting a lot of VFA (see picture). I am using Hatchbox Silk PLA using the Hatchbox profile, 0.20 Balanced profile
For context, the printer has HULA feet on it right now, sitting on top of a cement paver, which is sitting on top of a antivibration mat, on top of carpet
Today I dug through the 3d printing parts box and realized that I had like 5 v6 0.4mm nozzle's, so I decided to turn one of them into a 1.5mm by using a precision drill.
This print was made with 1.4mm layer height and 50mm/s (it was about 300gr and took just under 4 hours to print) on the generic prusa profile with minimal editing, ngl I need some help because I have no idea what I need to optimise to get the speed/the quality to be better.
One of the things that I found most fascinating was how fast the plastic was moving, taking into consideration the fact that it was almost printing as the same diameter as the spool itself.
Question in a title. Have some experience with industrial laser cutters and other technical cnc equipment, looking to dive in 3d plastic. After some consideration, decided to get prusa instead of bambu. Gona use it mainly for personal stuff and friend requests like some small figurines or plastic parts, but also want to have possibility to do something complex if needed.
And side question: what is average lifespan of 3d printer in years if i use it on average 2-3 days per week?
I am unsure whether to buy a Prusa or a Bambu Lab printer. I have a few questions for the Prusa printer. I have a budget of about 1000 Euros.
So it is either a prusa core one(Building Kit) or a bambu lab H2S(without AMS). I dont have a 3d printer so it would be my first.
Is the Prusa Core one a good option for a beginner?
Is it capable for functional prints, drone parts and cosplay parts?
Is the screen a touchscreen?
The core one printbed is way smaller than most other printers, is there a plan to give the printer a bigger printbed? Like 256x256? I have seen a few people using other print sheets to extend the printbed size.
The printer is quite expensive for the features, are there any other arguments for it other then it being an european printer?
Is there anything else the i need to buy or is the Core One Kit alone good to go? (I saw somewhere that someone reccomended a Accelerometer but i dont know why)
I have seen that they use custom nozzles for the Core One, but can i also use standard non prusa nozzles?
Do the printers ever go on sale? And have seen that there are 10% off codes, where can i get them?
Is there anyway to force ironing of the entire top surface once all colours are down? Instead of ironing each colour individually after each one is down
Printing the Prusa planetary gears model in PETG, orange and white is Prusament, gray and blue are Polymaker and CookieCAD respectively. Love a good fidget and I wanted to do a 4 color print now that the nozzle cam is working: https://youtube.com/live/noKX9_35E-U?feature=share
When can we expect an automated cold pull procedure in the control section?
Core One and XL both have them and I’ve already did a manual cold pull in the INDX.
