Our June Print of the Month contest hit big! It's always a pleasure to see what the community is working on and printing. We're changing things up again, so join in for the chance to enter the raffle and win a Prusa Starter Paint Set + Miniature Painting for Beginners Course Bundle, as well as 3x 1050 Prusameters for selected top entries!
We're rolling into the July 2026 round with a splash of color! This month's special theme is: Colorful Prints. Whether it's dual-color, multi-material, dyed, hand-painted, or just an unreasonably vibrant single-color print, show us your most eye-catching work. Fitting timing too, since our raffle winner this round could put that new paint set straight to use on their next entry!
Raffle Winner
Our raffle winner for the June Prusa Backpack by Braasi is: u/lostboy73! Congratulations, and I've sent you a DM with more information! Be sure to join us on Discord/YouTube for the stream each month (1st Thursday of the month) to join in on the fun (not required to win).
Calibration issues are usually something to fix, not print on purpose, but here we are. Turns out a blocky, glitched-out tugboat prints just as cleanly on resin as it does on FDM. A fun reinterpretation of the classic Benchy, modeled entirely in Blender.
Every community has that one person quietly out-engineering the $100+ commercial options in their garage, and this month it's HackMan3D. Four months of work went into this fully DIY, Hall-effect 6DoF space mouse for navigating CAD software and slicers alike. Here's hoping the "should I open-source it" question gets answered with a yes.
Some mods you admire, others you actually want to build yourself, and this is the second kind. A full magnetic LEGO-compatible skin for the CORE One, covering everything down to the Nextruder, that snaps on and off without touching the printer underneath. Model's up on Printables if you want to give your own CORE One the treatment.
When going out, make sure you go out in style! Nice printable fashion is sure to make you the star on any outdoor and beach setting!
The winners will receive their Prusameters within a week.
How to Participate
If you haven't joined before, here's a quick reminder of how it works:
Create a post with your print (anything you have printed on a Prusa3D printer).
Add the flair: "Print of the Month".
Credit the model and its author.
Include your Printables handle so we can send you Prusameters if you win.
Designer Exception: Don't have a 3D printer? If you have a project on Printables, link one of the MAKES of it. This needs to be a real print done by someone and submitted as a make, and the model must be hosted on your own Printables account.
Rules
We'll go through all the prints at the end of the month and announce the winners at the start of the next one.
Only a single entry counts for the raffle per Printables/Reddit account, but we encourage you to share as many prints as you like.
Raffle Eligibility: Accounts must be 1+ month old and posts must have at least 10 upvotes. Exceptions are possible for high-quality posts from new users.
Extremely low-effort or duplicate/spam posts may be removed and disqualified at the moderator's discretion.
The entries are counted from the 1st of the month to the last day of the month, so no entry is missed.
The raffle draw is done on the monthly community live stream, on the first Thursday of every month (stream starting at 19:00 GMT+1, lasting about 2 hours). It's not required to be online to win.
If you enjoy this kind of contest, we'll keep going with new themes every month. The winning photos might also appear on our other social media channels to show off what our Reddit community can do. We're looking forward to seeing your prints!
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Special note: I'm sorry the post is extremely late this month, with all the INDX excitement things slipped away from me. I promise not to delay it so much again!
Today I dug through the 3d printing parts box and realized that I had like 5 v6 0.4mm nozzle's, so I decided to turn one of them into a 1.5mm by using a precision drill.
This print was made with 1.4mm layer height and 50mm/s (it was about 300gr and took just under 4 hours to print) on the generic prusa profile with minimal editing, ngl I need some help because I have no idea what I need to optimise to get the speed/the quality to be better.
One of the things that I found most fascinating was how fast the plastic was moving, taking into consideration the fact that it was almost printing as the same diameter as the spool itself.
When can we expect an automated cold pull procedure in the control section?
Core One and XL both have them and I’ve already did a manual cold pull in the INDX.
I’m experiencing a bit of a weird problem. Over the last five years of 3D printing, including at least three years with CHF nozzles, I have never experienced a clog in any of my nozzles.
Now, after switching to an INDX machine and loading a brand-new, sealed box of Prusament Galaxy Black, it has become almost impossible to print. The nozzle clogs after just a few minutes. I am not able to use this kind of filament in my printer anymore.
I know that Galaxy Black has a bit of a tendency to clog CHF nozzles, but why is it happening now with this new spool, when it never happened before with non-Bondtech nozzles? Any ideas or suggestions? I am using the Prusament PLA profile, of course.
Some years back, I took an (in my opinion, excellent) candid photo of our cat attempting to inspect a new houseplant hanging far above his head, thinking that nobody was watching him.
Recently, with some artistic liberties, I sculpted him in Blender and modeled him a little crime scene.
A little glue, a little string, a little paint, and now I've got a guilty friend to laugh at whenever I see him. And it's designed for a single-color printer! (ie, mine, haha D: )
Hi everyone, with the INDX 1st batch inching in closer and closer, I realized that I need to step up my drying game. I would appreciate your 4 spool dryer recommendations and why this model.
I saw that Sovol, Creality and Sunlu all have a dryer, if anyone knows who’s the better of them.
I think I have seen this mentioned somewhere before, but can't remember where or what the actual "fix" was.
Basically I'm trying to figure out what I need to change so parts stop dropping to the bed by default if I move things up and off the bed. I'm wanting to be able to reassemble some already cut parts and make them one complete thing again, and I think I have only seen mention of changing something per part, but I am wanting to change it as a more "permanent" or slicer wide thing or whatever, as some of the models have a bunch of parts.
I'm used to Simplify3d where I can move parts anywhere within the print/screen space and they will stay where I put them.
With all the upgraders, I’m wondering if someone is willing to sell and ship their not needed top lid to Greater Boston. Mine has a crack that I worry will get larger over time.
EDIT: I found the plexi set from Prusa but I only need that one panel.
Will the Prusa mobile app have an update that allows better communication with INDX. I do alot of repeat printing so I usually just print from my history on the app, but there is currently no way to select which toolhead the print uses when i go to print from my history. Will that ever be an option?
SETI is an awesome game, but a mess to clean-up and store after a session. And starting it takes ages due to the amount of pieces you have to set-up.
Luckily I found this amazing organizer from "Ohm" (https://makerworld.com/en/models/903042-seti-boardgame-insert-organizer#profileId-862521). Since I only have my trusty old MK3s I resorted to using only two colors, including some saved-up remains of one of my favorite, but not available anymore, colors "Prusa Pearl Red" (could you maybe bring that back)?
A lot of manual color swaps later, and the game is now a breeze to set-up and store!
Hey everybody, I had some issues with tpu ultrafuse 85a. Dried for 4 hours, Sunlu dryer S1 plus in max temp. Said it's only 18% humidity.
During the print(22h) i stopped heating because I thought it was air tight enough. The problem appeared around hour 18.
I also had problems with adhesion and warping, but I guess the print wasn't thick enough and I should use a brim next time.
Printed on a satin sheet c1L.
So now the question is, how did the filament get stuck there? The filament string I pulled out there was about 10cm long, guess it got longer because I pulled it pretty hard.
Was the idler not tight enough for tpu?
I also have problems with loading the tpu because the filament sensor does not recognize tpu, even though I push it from the top without the tube. Had to deactivate the printhead sensor and it loads the filament
I recently picked up a Bondtech INDX toolhead for my Prusa CORE One and realized that the official Polymaker PrusaSlicer filament profiles only support the standard CORE One.
Rather than manually editing every profile each time Polymaker releases an update, I wrote a small open-source tool that converts the official Polymaker profiles into INDX-compatible versions.
It currently:
Converts all official Polymaker CORE One filament profiles
Supports CORE One INDX 4T and 8T
Targets the HF 0.4 mm nozzle configuration
Generates a PrusaSlicer config bundle for easy import
Also provides the individual filament profiles if you prefer those
The repository also includes GitHub Actions that automatically check Polymaker for updated CORE One profiles. When Polymaker publishes new presets, the project downloads them, validates them, converts them, and prepares everything for a new release.
The goal is to make it so INDX users always have up-to-date Polymaker profiles without having to edit dozens of .ini files by hand.
If anyone here is using an INDX-equipped CORE One, I'd really appreciate any feedback, bug reports, or suggestions.
I remixed the mount so that it has a countersunk hole for the filament sensor screw and removed a notch along the top so that the sensor will fit flush to the mount. Hopefully this helps someone with their new setup.
Well got my additional nozzles today …. They still printing with “hardened” gonna have to do some tests to see exactly how quick they get deteriorated to see exactly how “hardened “ they are
ive done like 10 cold pulls, let it run at 290c for a while to drip any plastic out, cleaned it with the little needle tools and yet it still continues to clog after 5-10 minutes of printing.
Its the v6 nozzle with the adapter, im printing normal pla white from sunlu on an open mk4s and i cant find the issue, looking at old prusa forums there seems to be a pattern with prusa and 0.25mm nozzles, so i aint got a clue what else to try.
im trying to print some pre supported warhammer mini figs that i passed through resin 2 fdm in order to make them printable, but the issue isnt the model since the nozzle has had this problem in the past. Im using the standard 1.2mm profile for structural.
if that wasnt enough the livechat is bugged for me for some reason so icant contact them, i tried two computers and it just says '0 minutes' on the timer and never connects me.
