I'm currently knitting the Handsome Chris Pullover. I was just flicking through the pattern and realised that I didn't do the ribbing in a smaller needle. I'm not completely sure how the ribbing will block out compared to the cables, but already it is very stretchy in comparison. I'm a couple months in at this point, and I'd rather not rip it back. Is there anything I can do to stop it from flaring? Should I use the right needles when ribbing the front panel, or continue as I've begun?

I’m specifically using an 8ply 100% merino wool from the brand Bella Baby which I bought at Spotlight (Australia).

I hadn’t intended to use it for an adult sweater but I was having trouble meeting gauge on the swatch with this other yarn I had for the project and on a whim decided to try the “baby” yarn.

It’s working up fine in my opinion (I’m holding it with a mohair) but I’ve seen others on social media say that baby yarn stretches / doesn’t hold its shape. Is this true?

I’d really like to not frog my project because I’m almost finished the back yoke and it’s taken me ages.

Back, front and edge of scarf. Pretty dense and stretchy. Thank you.

Hello everyone! I just decided i want to try and make the Sandok Cable Sweater and the recommended yarn is peer gynt held with ballerina chunky mohair. I would love to use those precise yarns but living in romania they are not available in the colour i would like. I ve been thinking for a long time that i d like tot try Knitting for olive yarns but i m not sure if that s a good alternative for this project. Has anyone ever tried those sibstitution before?

I am knitting a cloud sweater by petiteknit and I have a problem with tension that I just cannot solve (see picture). I’m knitting in the round and there’s a clear line where the fabric tension changes. I already tried switching needle sizes at that point, but it didn’t correct the difference.

At the start of the piece I was working knit and purl rounds, and the tension change lines up exactly with where I switched to knitting every round. So I suspect the shift from purling to all-knit rounds is what’s causing the difference in tightness, but I don’t know how to address it. All ideas welcome. Thank you!

This is the chestnut sweater by petiteknit. I am modifying it to have a 2x2 ribbed folded down collar. I picked up the neck stitches as suggested, every stitch. I folded it down and did a bind off (every other stitch). Will this bunching at the back of the neck block out?

I have finished this Sabai no2 top and am generally happy with the result, and how it fits me (picture 2). It’s a bit of a tighter fit, but that is intentional.

Because I have larger lats, I modified the pattern a little and added extra rows of increases. Unfortunately, my lats have either grown (🤪) or my calculations were off by a bit. Probably the latter. The top fits a bit too snugly under my arms.

Apart from frogging, any thoughts on how to either increase room under the arm (Picture 3) or possibly lengthen the straps (picture 1)? Perhaps add some knit stitches to the raglan so it looks a bit more like the shoulder of the Ivy top by petite knit?

I have never undone the cast on stitches or attempted anything like steeking, so thought I’d ask here for some thoughts. I’m relatively new to knitting, so not sure about how to properly describe everything, so hope this question makes sense 😃

(Also; yes I am aware that I’m rowing out. I will try and fix this moving forward.)

On this pattern it says "Inc 1st K wise at the end of next and every following row until there are 40sts"

Does it mean increase on every knit row or every row (including the p rows)

I’m not sure if anyone could tell me of a video that might so how to do this? I don’t even know what to look up. there is a video that comes with the pattern but it not in English and I just don’t understand what she is even doing in the video.

Thankfully nothing major, but there is a small cut on the cast-on edge of 1x1 rib. How do I keep it from unraveling? I'm usually okay with sewing holes in the middle, but I don't want the cast-on edge to unravel or look crazy. There's no extra yarn, it was cut.

https://ravel.me/anya-11

I am knitting this as my first ever shirt/sweater/non-accessory project. I'm at the part where I'm supposed to knit the back only, and I'm trying to understand if I'm supposed to knit the shoulder straps with the back or just the back. It seems like I'm supposed to knit the shoulder straps with the back because the pattern called for me to slip stitches to the end of the shoulder strap but when it says back only that makes me think I should slip the shoulder stitches back and only work from shoulder strip to shoulder strip on the back side. Has anyone made this project before and know what to do? I have tried to look in the comments and the questions search online for support email support and I can't figure this out. Sorry if this is a dumb question.

TL;DR - Should I...

1) work the shoulder straps with the back section

2) work one shoulder strap with the back and one with the front

3) slip stitches back to the back section and then follow the pattern

4) frog it and cry (sarcasm)

Just finished the color work for this…then realized my pink should have been held on the bottom. I can’t remember what I did.

Can you tell from the purl side? Is the green or pink the dominant color

what is going on with the extra piece of yarn that came out of my loops. the working yarn also isn’t on my last stitch anymore. do i just frog the last two rows? i’m a crocheter learning to knit.

I just have to sew parts together.

I learned a few days ago that magic knots are not that magic... What can I do to secure them before I wash my sweater? It's 100% cotton.

Thank you in advance.

:<

I’m knitting my first sweater and picked the step by step sweater by Florence. I’m using 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn. The pattern says gauge is 16 stitches x 20 rows. I’m using 2 colors and got the following gauges:
Color 1: 17 stitches x 22 rows
Color 2: 16 stitches x 22 rows

My question is, is this close enough? I’m afraid of if I go up or down a needle size that I’m going to be really off on my stitches. For all you wonderful experienced knitters, what would you do? Thanks for your help!

i always slip my first stitch, thats how i learned. but does this apply even when a pattern says (for example) p4 k1 p4? like do i really slip, p3 k1 p4. because it feels wrong to work the first stitch but it’s always something ive been unsure about.

I’m an English style left handed knitter.
This pattern has yo’s and stitch markers.

My yo stitch always ends up on the right hand side of the marker, whether I do it before I slip the marker or after.
This causes the number of stitches between the left and right hand side of the row to be uneven.

What am I doing wrong?

I'm not using a pattern for this project, simply doing broken seed stitch until the piece is as long as I need it to be.

My problem is this, I messed up my stitches maybe 4 rows back from where the images show (front and back respectively) and pulled the yarn. I replaced the needle and picked it back up from that point, but the tension seemed weird when I fixed the row and I can't tell if I'm psyching myself out or if it actually looks wrong.

Can anyone see the spot I messed up? Do my stitches look right in general?

I'm self-taught through books and YouTube, so I don't even know if I learned the right way to begin with. Any help or advice (if I did screw something up) is welcome.

To begin, this is my first time knitting a vintage pattern or a sweater. I started knitting when I was very young but would still consider myself more of a novice. I’m currently working on a 1940s jumper pattern.
In this pattern for the back it says to commence neck opening: With right side facing, rib 49, turn and work back. Continue until work measures 18"

Maybe I’m not visualizing it well in my head but I’m confused about how this would create a neck opening? I’ll include a photo of the pattern itself but I would really appreciate some help understanding this!

Hi, so sorry I chose a difficult but fun project for a first timer. I’m sure this is an easy solution. I’m making a swan bonnet. I’m having the hardest time with this part. I understand I pick up every stitch and then add on the 3 additional stitches etc. I’m having a hard time with figuring out WHERE to pick up the stitches and how to do that. It’s not pick up and knit which I feel like are the only videos I see. Any help is appreciated.

I’m starting knitting a pattern now for a vest (free on Ravelry - See My Vest - Worsted) and I’m confused about how part will work

It’s knit top down, I start knitting mid-back up and then will eventually join under the armpits and knit down. But that means I’ll knit into my cast on? Will that not be obvious? Am I missing something? sorry I imagine this is so obvious but I’m at a loss! thank you all for your time

I’m making the step by step sweater and she zooms through the part about picking up extra stitches to close gaps under the arm. I know that the blue star is my first cast on stitch to knit into, but I’m trying to figure out where two additional stitches come from before that. I think the pink dot is one of them, but where do I go for the other? Above and below the pink dot, there is only one bar and I think I’m supposed to pick up two. Do I go deeper into the work? But then I’m picking up half a column over from the pink stitch’s column, does that matter? Thanks!

Hi all,

I am just a bit confused with the stitch marker placement on the Tombo Tee by Florence Miller. Here is the pattern on ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tombo-tee

I am doing size C, which asks for 76 stitches to be cast on. Am I right in thinking the set up row is asking for me to place a marker 2 stitches from the start of the row but not 2 stitches from the end of the row? I'm thrown off by the wording 'p2 to end of row'. I should also add that this is a raglan construction and my contusion is likely because this is my first raglan knit!

Thanks in advance!