I am working on the Bunnicula pattern from the book Geek Knits and I am really struggling with rows 12-14. Row 12 has increases and is supposed to end with 90 sts, row 13 is just purling, but in row 14 I am supposed to knit 28 sts, start the colourwork pattern (24 sts) and then knit to the end of the row. If it did that, the colourwork would have 28 sts on one side and 38 sts on the other side. The future rows in the pattern make it look like 90 total sts is the correct amount, but I am not sure if I should just center it because it makes sense to me, or if there is a reason I don't understand for the pattern being uncentered.

The pattern is only in the book, but I have included a link to the ravelry page I got the pic in my post from so you can see all the pattern pictures. Bunnicula Ravelry

Hello! I am working the Olga Sweater in Drops Paris 100% cotton yarn and i love it; however, as i am nearly completing my german short rows i realize it the back yoke doesn’t measure the 13.5cm. Should i continue the back until i meet 27cm of stockinette stitch?

Just finished the color work for this…then realized my pink should have been held on the bottom. I can’t remember what I did.

Can you tell from the purl side? Is the green or pink the dominant color

I’m casting on for the Cozy Cabin Moss Stitch Sweater by Louise Bollanos and am having trouble understanding the first part.

The pattern calls to use straight knitting needles or circular needles knitting back and forth— presumably flipping from RS to WS.

The pattern starts out like this:

“Back
With 6 mm (US 10) knitting needles, CO 70 (74, 82, 86, 94) sts.
Lower Band
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Work rows 1 and 2 once more.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 3 inches from the CO edge.”

It doesn’t say anything about switching from RS to WS but presumably I’d have to do that, right? Since I’m knitting back and forth/flat?

The pattern then says:

“Change to 8 mm (US 11) knitting needles.
Row 1 (RS): P1, K1 to the end of the row.
Row 2 (WS): K1, P1 to the end of the row.
Cont to work in moss stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece
measures 15.5 (16, 16.5, 16.5, 17) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.”

So it’s clear that when I size up needles, I’ll be working back and forth from RS to WS but is that just implied in the first section, even though it’s not explicitly stated?

Where I’m getting caught up is that the first row in the first section is a knit row, but then the second row needs to be a purl row. So if I’m working RS/WS, I’ll actually need to KNIT that second row so it looks like purl on the RS, correct? This is where I’m getting confused by the lack of RS/WS instructions.

Am I just overthinking this? Let me know if none of this made sense, I’m not sure I’m articulating my question well.

Thank you!

what is going on with the extra piece of yarn that came out of my loops. the working yarn also isn’t on my last stitch anymore. do i just frog the last two rows? i’m a crocheter learning to knit.

I’m going to knit my first sweater and I found a nice specific pattern I want to use, but it calls for worsted weight yarn and 4.5mm needles. I only have a bunch of DK weight yarn (doesn’t explicitly list weight, but it recommended 4mm needles on the package so I’m assuming DK) and I don’t want to buy more worsted yarn. Is it possible to use DK yarn and 4mm needles? I suppose i can try knitting up a size on the sweater.

Hi all, I am left handed and have started knitting this year! I have worked through a couple patterns but I am starting to notice that many will refer to left needle and right needle, which I can switch up in my mind quickly. However, with decreasing/increasing with specific leans, or when having to work the left and right shoulders separately, I am quickly getting confused. Has anyone found a fix to this, or does it just come with practice?

I am knitting a cloud sweater by petiteknit and I have a problem with tension that I just cannot solve (see picture). I’m knitting in the round and there’s a clear line where the fabric tension changes. I already tried switching needle sizes at that point, but it didn’t correct the difference.

At the start of the piece I was working knit and purl rounds, and the tension change lines up exactly with where I switched to knitting every round. So I suspect the shift from purling to all-knit rounds is what’s causing the difference in tightness, but I don’t know how to address it. All ideas welcome. Thank you!

I'm not using a pattern for this project, simply doing broken seed stitch until the piece is as long as I need it to be.

My problem is this, I messed up my stitches maybe 4 rows back from where the images show (front and back respectively) and pulled the yarn. I replaced the needle and picked it back up from that point, but the tension seemed weird when I fixed the row and I can't tell if I'm psyching myself out or if it actually looks wrong.

Can anyone see the spot I messed up? Do my stitches look right in general?

I'm self-taught through books and YouTube, so I don't even know if I learned the right way to begin with. Any help or advice (if I did screw something up) is welcome.

Hey, Malabrigo junkies - In your experience, do any of these choices stay true to size when wet-blocked (or rained on)? (ETA - I marked the SUPERWASH items - Do I need to avoid all of those?)

I want to make a 2x2 ribbed hat, and also a hooded cowl, which WILL NOT GROW / STRETCH OUT OF SIZE when it's blocked or wet. Which one(s) do you think would be well-behaved for either of those uses?

(I'm not worried about felting or pilling, because these won't be subject to undue friction and I will control how they're cleaned. Any of these weights, from Super-Bulky to Light Worsted, could work for me.)

I’m knitting the men’s roll neck sweater by Kris Percival and I’m using two strands of knitpicks swish superwash worsted merino wool held together. I did a swatch and wet blocked it. But for some reason it didn’t grow? I put it down flat to dry and I didn’t stretch it at all. I honestly just continued making the sweater but now I’m bugging myself out thinking that the sweaters proportion are going to come out skewed. Could it be because I’m holding two strands together? I’m very confused as to why it didn’t grow since superwash is notorious for growing.

To begin, this is my first time knitting a vintage pattern or a sweater. I started knitting when I was very young but would still consider myself more of a novice. I’m currently working on a 1940s jumper pattern.
In this pattern for the back it says to commence neck opening: With right side facing, rib 49, turn and work back. Continue until work measures 18"

Maybe I’m not visualizing it well in my head but I’m confused about how this would create a neck opening? I’ll include a photo of the pattern itself but I would really appreciate some help understanding this!

I have finished this Sabai no2 top and am generally happy with the result, and how it fits me (picture 2). It’s a bit of a tighter fit, but that is intentional.

Because I have larger lats, I modified the pattern a little and added extra rows of increases. Unfortunately, my lats have either grown (🤪) or my calculations were off by a bit. Probably the latter. The top fits a bit too snugly under my arms.

Apart from frogging, any thoughts on how to either increase room under the arm (Picture 3) or possibly lengthen the straps (picture 1)? Perhaps add some knit stitches to the raglan so it looks a bit more like the shoulder of the Ivy top by petite knit?

I have never undone the cast on stitches or attempted anything like steeking, so thought I’d ask here for some thoughts. I’m relatively new to knitting, so not sure about how to properly describe everything, so hope this question makes sense 😃

(Also; yes I am aware that I’m rowing out. I will try and fix this moving forward.)

I’ve been practicing knitting for about 2 weeks now and have 2 swatches, one stockinette and one 1k1p ribbing. I understand that the point of swatching is to understand your gauge before the project but how do you do that exactly? Do I (and how do I) block it? Do i just count the stitches and rows and divide by the length and width of the swatch? I want my first project to be a ribbed beanie knit flat, Is that crazy for a beginner? Also any notes on the ribbed swatch itself are much appreciated! Tyia!

Hello!! I am working on the elf warrior mitts from the lord of the knits book, and a little confused by twisted ssk and twisted k2tog. I youtube’d how to knit twisted ssk and I got multiple videos with different instructions. One video said to slip the first stitch purl wise, then the next knit wise and knit both together through the back loop. Another said to just knit them together through the back loop, but would that not be a twisted k2tog? I guess I’m not yet on the level of understanding twisted stitches 😅

My stitches are western mounted and I am twisting my knits by knitting through the back loop.

If anybody has made this pattern successfully please let me know! The book does not have any instruction for the stitch, and I frogged a few times to try different combinations. I’d like to not give up!

Hi, so sorry I chose a difficult but fun project for a first timer. I’m sure this is an easy solution. I’m making a swan bonnet. I’m having the hardest time with this part. I understand I pick up every stitch and then add on the 3 additional stitches etc. I’m having a hard time with figuring out WHERE to pick up the stitches and how to do that. It’s not pick up and knit which I feel like are the only videos I see. Any help is appreciated.

This is the chestnut sweater by petiteknit. I am modifying it to have a 2x2 ribbed folded down collar. I picked up the neck stitches as suggested, every stitch. I folded it down and did a bind off (every other stitch). Will this bunching at the back of the neck block out?

Hi! Do you know any serious and good yarn2yarn alternative?

Like another software with a grid that you can set according to your swatch, so you can report flat knitting patterns and then change the swatch to get adapted instructions? I have a crush on a pattern but I want to use another yarn...

All I have seen are highly expensive on-demand websites that work for a limited selection?! A friend has recommended Yarn2yarn to me but I want to know if there are other options?

Thanks!

I’m starting knitting a pattern now for a vest (free on Ravelry - See My Vest - Worsted) and I’m confused about how part will work

It’s knit top down, I start knitting mid-back up and then will eventually join under the armpits and knit down. But that means I’ll knit into my cast on? Will that not be obvious? Am I missing something? sorry I imagine this is so obvious but I’m at a loss! thank you all for your time

On this pattern it says "Inc 1st K wise at the end of next and every following row until there are 40sts"

Does it mean increase on every knit row or every row (including the p rows)

I’m making the step by step sweater and she zooms through the part about picking up extra stitches to close gaps under the arm. I know that the blue star is my first cast on stitch to knit into, but I’m trying to figure out where two additional stitches come from before that. I think the pink dot is one of them, but where do I go for the other? Above and below the pink dot, there is only one bar and I think I’m supposed to pick up two. Do I go deeper into the work? But then I’m picking up half a column over from the pink stitch’s column, does that matter? Thanks!

Hi all,

I am just a bit confused with the stitch marker placement on the Tombo Tee by Florence Miller. Here is the pattern on ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tombo-tee

I am doing size C, which asks for 76 stitches to be cast on. Am I right in thinking the set up row is asking for me to place a marker 2 stitches from the start of the row but not 2 stitches from the end of the row? I'm thrown off by the wording 'p2 to end of row'. I should also add that this is a raglan construction and my contusion is likely because this is my first raglan knit!

Thanks in advance!

I’m knitting a sweater and have completed the back and front yoke. It’s time to join in the round for the body and I’m confused by the directions:

Now join the front and back yoke to form the body. Work as follows:

Round 1: Work in established pattern across the front yoke, cast on 1 stitch in extension of the sts on
the needle using the backward loop method, work in established pattern across the back yoke. There are now a total of 143 (159) 175 (183) 191 (199) 207 sts on the needle.

Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round at the right underarm. Note that you only cast on 1 stitch at one of the underarms, so the moss stitch can be worked continuously on both sides.

I’m reading this as work the front, cast on the stitch. When I work the back, am I joining in the round then? Or do I work the back straight across and then join in the round at the other underarm? And where do I put the stitch marker?