Wool of the Andes superwash yarn- did magic knot so I left no tails to weave in (or repair with!). My husband has only worn this like 3 or 4 times! We hand wash and lay flat to dry.

Hey, Malabrigo junkies - In your experience, do any of these choices stay true to size when wet-blocked (or rained on)? ETA: What about CARACOL? It's superwash merino, but is caged in a net of "binder thread" - does that limit the stretching? See phamtasticVy's advice about controlling stretch by carrying a laceweight strand along with superwash merino.

I want to make a 2x2 ribbed hat, and also a hooded cowl, which WILL NOT GROW / STRETCH OUT OF SIZE when it's blocked or wet. Which one(s) do you think would be well-behaved for either of those uses?

(I'm not worried about felting or pilling, because these won't be subject to undue friction and I will control how they're cleaned. Any of these weights, from Super-Bulky to Light Worsted, could work for me.)

How do I do German short rows?

I have a pattern for 2x2 rib knit trousers and part of the pattern involves doing short rows but I haven't a clue how to do them! I can't find any good tutorials online either.

Can someone please point me in the right direction? I'm getting really confused.

I’ve been practicing knitting for about 2 weeks now and have 2 swatches, one stockinette and one 1k1p ribbing. I understand that the point of swatching is to understand your gauge before the project but how do you do that exactly? Do I (and how do I) block it? Do i just count the stitches and rows and divide by the length and width of the swatch? I want my first project to be a ribbed beanie knit flat, Is that crazy for a beginner? Also any notes on the ribbed swatch itself are much appreciated! Tyia!

I’m going to knit my first sweater and I found a nice specific pattern I want to use, but it calls for worsted weight yarn and 4.5mm needles. I only have a bunch of DK weight yarn (doesn’t explicitly list weight, but it recommended 4mm needles on the package so I’m assuming DK) and I don’t want to buy more worsted yarn. Is it possible to use DK yarn and 4mm needles? I suppose i can try knitting up a size on the sweater.

I am knitting a cloud sweater by petiteknit and I have a problem with tension that I just cannot solve (see picture). I’m knitting in the round and there’s a clear line where the fabric tension changes. I already tried switching needle sizes at that point, but it didn’t correct the difference.

At the start of the piece I was working knit and purl rounds, and the tension change lines up exactly with where I switched to knitting every round. So I suspect the shift from purling to all-knit rounds is what’s causing the difference in tightness, but I don’t know how to address it. All ideas welcome. Thank you!

I only use weight 3 yarn and weight 5 yarn for crochet (the only ones available where i live) so is getting those needles enough? Would 4.5 mm needle be too loose with weight 3 yarn to make sweaters or t shirts with?

I’m using the same yarn the Mochi Knits Sol Top pattern calls for and am currently gauge swatching. I’ve gone down 2 needle sizes to a 3mm needle and still have 2 less stitches (row count is finally correct). For reference, the gauge is 26 sts by 40 rows in stockinette stitch. Should I go another needle size down? I know the stitch count is more important but I’m on gauge swatch #3 now and I don’t know why I’m still not there yet.

I’m starting my first sweater (step by step sweater by Florence Miller) and just got to the German short rows. I knit continental and this is my first project doing purls and the only way purling makes sense to me is Norwegian purl. Can i Norwegian purl when doing a German short row? I’m so confused with the yarn in the front

Hi all, I am left handed and have started knitting this year! I have worked through a couple patterns but I am starting to notice that many will refer to left needle and right needle, which I can switch up in my mind quickly. However, with decreasing/increasing with specific leans, or when having to work the left and right shoulders separately, I am quickly getting confused. Has anyone found a fix to this, or does it just come with practice?

I can’t figure out how to tighten this. I can pull the V on the wrong side to tighten it up a little, but that makes the purl bar on the right side too short, and no other stitches will do anything. It’s the part of a folded collar that will show and in the very center of the front. First picture is the right side, second is the wrong side.

I’m specifically using an 8ply 100% merino wool from the brand Bella Baby which I bought at Spotlight (Australia).

I hadn’t intended to use it for an adult sweater but I was having trouble meeting gauge on the swatch with this other yarn I had for the project and on a whim decided to try the “baby” yarn.

It’s working up fine in my opinion (I’m holding it with a mohair) but I’ve seen others on social media say that baby yarn stretches / doesn’t hold its shape. Is this true?

I’d really like to not frog my project because I’m almost finished the back yoke and it’s taken me ages.

I’m knitting the men’s roll neck sweater by Kris Percival and I’m using two strands of knitpicks swish superwash worsted merino wool held together. I did a swatch and wet blocked it. But for some reason it didn’t grow? I put it down flat to dry and I didn’t stretch it at all. I honestly just continued making the sweater but now I’m bugging myself out thinking that the sweaters proportion are going to come out skewed. Could it be because I’m holding two strands together? I’m very confused as to why it didn’t grow since superwash is notorious for growing.

Hi! I am knitting the Sweater No 32 by My favorite things knitwear.

I started with the collar on circular needles. First I used magic & travelling loop but did not really succeed. Then I tried just joining in the round on my regular (long) knitpro needles. The stitches look really stretched out and I had to fight a bit to close the stitches for the round.

My fear is that I stretched the stitches to much and that this will be visible in the finished sweater. Should I start over and get myself some short interchangeable needles? Or will this be fine? :)

Hello!! I am working on the elf warrior mitts from the lord of the knits book, and a little confused by twisted ssk and twisted k2tog. I youtube’d how to knit twisted ssk and I got multiple videos with different instructions. One video said to slip the first stitch purl wise, then the next knit wise and knit both together through the back loop. Another said to just knit them together through the back loop, but would that not be a twisted k2tog? I guess I’m not yet on the level of understanding twisted stitches 😅

My stitches are western mounted and I am twisting my knits by knitting through the back loop.

If anybody has made this pattern successfully please let me know! The book does not have any instruction for the stitch, and I frogged a few times to try different combinations. I’d like to not give up!

I have a sweater pattern that can be knitted from either the top down or the bottom up.

I have only ever knitted sweaters from the bottom up, but I'm not very experienced.

I'd like to hear pros and cons from more experienced knitters, if you wouldn't mind, if you have recommendations for one or the other.

I'm a slow arthritic knitter, but loving knitting for the grandkids. 😁

Hi, so sorry I chose a difficult but fun project for a first timer. I’m sure this is an easy solution. I’m making a swan bonnet. I’m having the hardest time with this part. I understand I pick up every stitch and then add on the 3 additional stitches etc. I’m having a hard time with figuring out WHERE to pick up the stitches and how to do that. It’s not pick up and knit which I feel like are the only videos I see. Any help is appreciated.

To begin, this is my first time knitting a vintage pattern or a sweater. I started knitting when I was very young but would still consider myself more of a novice. I’m currently working on a 1940s jumper pattern.
In this pattern for the back it says to commence neck opening: With right side facing, rib 49, turn and work back. Continue until work measures 18"

Maybe I’m not visualizing it well in my head but I’m confused about how this would create a neck opening? I’ll include a photo of the pattern itself but I would really appreciate some help understanding this!

I'm not using a pattern for this project, simply doing broken seed stitch until the piece is as long as I need it to be.

My problem is this, I messed up my stitches maybe 4 rows back from where the images show (front and back respectively) and pulled the yarn. I replaced the needle and picked it back up from that point, but the tension seemed weird when I fixed the row and I can't tell if I'm psyching myself out or if it actually looks wrong.

Can anyone see the spot I messed up? Do my stitches look right in general?

I'm self-taught through books and YouTube, so I don't even know if I learned the right way to begin with. Any help or advice (if I did screw something up) is welcome.

i always slip my first stitch, thats how i learned. but does this apply even when a pattern says (for example) p4 k1 p4? like do i really slip, p3 k1 p4. because it feels wrong to work the first stitch but it’s always something ive been unsure about.

Hello everyone! I just decided i want to try and make the Sandok Cable Sweater and the recommended yarn is peer gynt held with ballerina chunky mohair. I would love to use those precise yarns but living in romania they are not available in the colour i would like. I ve been thinking for a long time that i d like tot try Knitting for olive yarns but i m not sure if that s a good alternative for this project. Has anyone ever tried those sibstitution before?

Back, front and edge of scarf. Pretty dense and stretchy. Thank you.

I’m knitting my first sweater and picked the step by step sweater by Florence. I’m using 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn. The pattern says gauge is 16 stitches x 20 rows. I’m using 2 colors and got the following gauges:
Color 1: 17 stitches x 22 rows
Color 2: 16 stitches x 22 rows

My question is, is this close enough? I’m afraid of if I go up or down a needle size that I’m going to be really off on my stitches. For all you wonderful experienced knitters, what would you do? Thanks for your help!

Hello! I am working the Olga Sweater in Drops Paris 100% cotton yarn and i love it; however, as i am nearly completing my german short rows i realize it the back yoke doesn’t measure the 13.5cm. Should i continue the back until i meet 27cm of stockinette stitch?

Just finished the color work for this…then realized my pink should have been held on the bottom. I can’t remember what I did.

Can you tell from the purl side? Is the green or pink the dominant color