So, like the post says, my house doesn't get below 81 with the AC running at all times. At night it will go lower, but not during the day and not low enough to stop running (we have it set to 75).

I'm in Florida, and the real feel is 108 today, actual temp 94 and 57% humidity per the Clime NOAA app on my phone for my area. This may just be a matter of it being that f-ing hot out and the systems doing all it can, but I figured I should check before I roll over and take it.

With that being said, I also wanted to ask because we just had all the duct work and the return and supply plenums replaced. The new supply plenum is half the length of the old one that we replaced because we found mold in it (we replaced the duct work too because of the mold and because rats had chewed through some of the insulation). The air handler is 20" t and 18.5" w, but the supply plenum feeding off of it is only 20"l x 20"t x 18.5"w and is offset like you can see in the photos. Could that be causing restricted airflow and making it harder to cool my place and could that cause issues with my coils going forward?

I have an 1800sf two story home (just one bedroom upstairs).

It's a 3 ton/5kw air handler, trane 4twr6036n1000aa condenser outside using 410a refrigerant.

I'd ask my landlord about this but he's been very unreliable and dickish lately. Changed the air filter a week ago and the A/C has been struggling to get below 76-77ish. The vent is a bit louder than usual and the filter looks like it's being sucked in. Landlord's been dropping off the filters and as far as we know it's the same brand and kind, but this hasn't happened before. Is the MERV on the filters too high? Is there an immediate temporary fix so I can sleep comfortably?

Hello! My landlord’s maintenance guy installed our window AC unit sideways, which after Googling for 2 seconds I found out you should never do! I informed the landlord about this error so we’ll see what their next steps are.

I wanted advice on whether or not I can safely use the unit (its really hot inside the apartment) or if I should leave it turned off. Also, is there any salvaging the unit? I’m not sure how to take the unit out, but the maintenance guy was supposed to come over on Friday (in 3 days) to install another AC unit in our bedroom. Can i leave it there until then?

Thank you all in advance! Picture of the sideways unit for reference 🫪

At the beginning of June my 2.5 ton Ameristar unit quit cooling. Had a company come out and diagnose a restriction in the Evaporater coil. Company never got back to me (he didn't seem like he wanted to even take the job once he realized what it was) and went with a smaller company, he also diagnosed the same issue. Replaced it, and ran fine almost two weeks. A few days before failing entirely, it struggled to keep up. Now it won't even cool again, air is 75° coming out of the unit. Both techs said the restriction could be visibly seen by some lines freezing (pictured, first picture is this time, second is first time). The unit is still under warranty, but im afraid if its the same part it won't be covered again, the lines are freezing the same as before. Is this a common issue? I don't know much about HVAC, but if it is the same part, something has to he causing it to fail right? This year has been great with this unit, also lost heat at the coldest part of the year, inducer motor shaft somehow bent.

I had a larger local company come out to check why my AC isn't working. My unit is older, like 20 years. They said everything is actually in very solid shape...but the blower motor is dead.

Initially they wanted to sell me a whole new system for $18K+. I said no. They said they're unsure if they could find the part, they'd let me know.

In the meantime I called around, a smaller/local business said if I could find the part he'd charge me $200 in labor to swap it out. I'm only finding used ones since it's a much older model. About $400 on average for "used/refurbished working condition." SO about $600 for the whole job.

THEN the bigger place got back to me. They have a NEW motor that will work I guess. They want $1500 for labor and the motor.

NOW- I'm pretty frugal, my logic says "LOL go with ol' boy for $600 total." BUT- Is it worth the risk of the used motor blowing out again due to age and truly unknown condition? Or do I pony up and just get the "guarantee" of new and a warranty etc? for nearly 3x as much?

I'm trying to get this done SOON because in 3 days or so it's going back into the 90's.

Appreciate the thoughts. I'm guessing I'll be told "do the cheaper" option, but I'm unsure so I ask.

For Reference- The model and a vid of it.

All I'm finding is used. And mostly a different CN number. Mine is CN02, I'm finding more CN03 and CNO4, unsure if that matters.

https://imgur.com/a/2zfnTeC

https://imgur.com/a/Rc2hLJX

EDIT- I'm seeing this, this is CN04 vs my CN02, otherwise it looks to be the same. Unsure if this would work. If so I'm fine to try it myself honestly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326939411875?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e111028.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=79ede3510d864b64864ca17557efa0f8&bu=43172618374&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20260722070615&segname=111028

Hey guys,

Had a question about how to resolve this. There is water leaking from under this black thing where the the drain pipe connects to the indoor unit (excuse me for my lack of terminology please). Also, sorry for the bad pics, its really hard to get the right picture. In picture 1 you can see the water is reflecting the flash on my phone just a little bit between the drain pipe and what I believe is a capped off secondary drain pipe?

No clue if it's allowed, but good GOD, man.

I was laid off at the end of May, and didn't panic at all. I had lots of contacts from my prior job I thought I'd land on my feet.

I was blindsided; that company made it through plenty of slow summers without laying people off.

Turns out, everyone I spoke with is in the same boat...no bones to throw, the work is too slow.

So, I began watching some HVAC videos, interacting with this sub and the HVAC sub, and looking into education. Applied for about 10 jobs, beginner thru experienced service tech.

No luck so far.

But this was about a month ago so I gave up....because the schooling doesn't start until August and I thought, well j definitely need a job before then so fuck it, I'll buckle down and get whatever I can.

And here I am , ANOTHER MONTH LATER , with no damn job...and now just a couple weeks away from the schooling programs opening day lmao.

I'm honestly not sure I want to do HVAC, because I'm in Florida and attics are extremely unsettling...spiders, snakes, lizards/giant iguanas, rats/mice, and God knows how many sharp things just laying in the old insulation to bite you...and then...well if none of those scare the fk out of you and you slam your head into an errant nail...well then you gotta worry about the heat. That'll sneak up on you and have you falling through the customers drywall in no time.

Now, I know I can go service tech route...but I sorta need experience installing systems to know how they fully operate, where a leak might be etc. And on top of that, there's literally 50 companies within 20 minutes of me, almost all of them lone operations or smaller crews who don't do installs. So, the market is just a teeny bit overcrowded, here.

HVAC is definitely something I want to learn. I've never been afraid to repair stuff myself, in familiar with ducting, plumbing, and electrical. Just did a bunch of each around my house.

But...will it pay enough to be worth it, with how saturated my area is? I just don't know....but I thought it was ironic that a month ago I said NEVERMIND, I'll have a job long before the schooling even starts!

I never turn my AC on, so I’m unsure what it’s supposed to sound like.

An HVAC tech recently came to my house and went in my attic. He said the rigid metal ducts contain asbestos insulation. Which is especially concerning because they aren't in the best shape.

I figured this would have been a huge red flag on the home inspection. FWIW chat gpt tells me it is likely safe and does not contain asbestos.

The house was built in the 60s in CA. I don't know if any of the duct work is original. But clearly it has been modified at some point because of the newer material on some ducts.

I had water bubbling and spaying everywhere from the open pipe(A) and found out that my line isn't draining. Tried vaccuming from the outside / other end with a shop vac and it didn't work. Used a CO2 pressured gallow gun at the opening and still nothing.

Also, the pipes A and B are blowing really cold air out.

I have an old Honeywell chromotherm III in my rental and no matter what I do it’s still flashing replace batt. I’ve tried different batteries reset the breaker, waited it’s still flashing and there’s no cool air. I can’t tell if my breaker isn’t staying on or just shitty it’s getting hotter please someone help me I texted landlord and they just sent me a google search of an ai overview

Greetings! My a/c had trouble keeping up today and i went outside saw/heard this. I thought it was the capacitor so I changed it out but the problem persisted. Any advice?

I purchased a home recently and am not familiar with the systems in this part of the country, it has a heatpump and air filter. Is this large opening supposed to be there? The opening is blowing cool air out, the outside unit is not running but it is also not cooling the house. Not sure what is up, any advice helps.

Should a gas furance/hvac closet be fully sealed? When we bought the house the closet was fully sealed off to bring it up to code but now the hvac system is sweating. We had the air ducts in the closet fully re-sealed but the problem still persists, only on one spot. The hvac company (a different one then the one that sealed it) is suggesting we open the closet back up to allow it to be closer to room temperature in the closet and this will stop the sweating. My only concern is when we decide to use the heater during the winter, is this going to be a problem as far as carbon monoxide? There is a pipe that goes to the outside to let out the fumes but why was it suggested that we seal the closet in the first place? Pictures show the part that was sealed before (part A). And the other Pic is what is looks like now.

I am on the top floor of an apartment in Texas. It has notoriously been in the high 90s/low 100s. My AC is set at 68, however, by 7 p.m., the coolest my apartment will go is 73. I have always lived on the second floor, where the apartment is somewhat insulated by the others. Is this normal for top floors? Is it indicative of the AC eventually going out, or is the heat just that brutal where 73 is the best I would get anyway? I do not remember having this issue in the summer before. Should I put in a maintenance request or just tough it out the last month of the heat in the high 90s?

Looking to clean the build up on these outside ducts!

I bought this house over a decade ago and the inspector warned me that it was gonna fail at any time. Well it's time to replace because of a compressor failure. I'm not even mad at a 100% original unit lasting that long.

I am of course going to get a great efficiency boost by replacing. It is currently AC only, but I have been recommended a heat pump unit by several companies and use the oil as backup. My house is 1400sqft plus a finished walk out basement and I have never felt that my bills were high. However, the price difference between the AC only and heat pump is 800-1000 so I'd need that to be incredibly efficient to ever make the money back. Thoughts?

Second. Between the single and double stage, are there any benefits other than efficiency? AC costs me $80-100 a month for about 4 months plus minimal on either side of that. So an extra 10% is not really impressive. Doesn't feel like I'd be getting any benefit long-term.

Am pondering how well a 10kw (ducted system) outdoor unit will go if I put just inside this space against the wall. Its a super convenient spot as its largely out of sight and all the plumbing and wiring is coming through from the back wall of this space from the under floor of the house where the air handler etc is.

Am in the deep south of Tasmania, so its 95%+ in heating mode and this location stays dry and catches the morning sun in winter. Will of course be tidying up the space and will have to relocate the wood pile somewhere else, and tidying up this whole garden area is one of the many jobs on this run down place we bought...

Its about 180cm high at the front and the outdoor unit is about 100cm tall - so once on a slab and feet wont have much more than 20-30cm space about the unit.

Efficiency nightmare...?

Greetings folks, I'm looking for this book, I would be very grateful if someone could share it.

I didn't take pics, but DT across evap is 22°, 73-51. 5 Ton Trane RTU, 3 floors up, we're on the ground floor. All PM's done last month - evap/condenser cleaning and filter changes, pressures were checked, etc.

The pics show DT in the space is 13°. The 55.5° pic is the bottom of the supply trunk where it branches off into the space. The temp in the drop ceiling is about 3 degrees higher than in the space, and when it gets hot as the kitchen runs, I've seen it as high as almost 10 degrees higher in the drop ceiling.

Hoods are cleaned quarterly, MUA is freshly maintained as well, including cleaning the perforated supply vents. The entire facility is maybe seven years old.

This one return is supposed to be for three whole rooms, all actively running heat generating kitchen equipment. The inlet is six inches from a sheet of drywall. On the other side of that drywall is another room this return is supposed to service, to which there is zero connection except a doorway and that room is the hottest despite having three supply vents.

I'm still a novice at this stuff. Should this return be attached to the grille? Should there be more than one? Can I put a vent in the drywall right in front of that?

To put it plainly this is a brand new AC - sounds like something is failing - second video is showing the fan for the unit with the issue, and the one without the issue