I have a 2018 Ford F150 with about 150,000KM’s on it and this afternoon the check Engine light came on and when I got it through a car scan, it said cylinder 4 is misfiring. That said, I don’t know much about trucks and was thinking of doing it myself. Any resources? Tips? Thanks again for the help!

Which one would you guys do? Only options Lariat has is the BOP and FX4.

Just bought today
2019 F150 Lariat Fx4
🤷🏻‍♂️ figured id share

Came out to my truck this afternoon to an "update complete" message. Great new features and more android and apple stability supposedly....

Since the update my screen is slow or does not respond to inputs.

After a short drive and power cycle, i received another update complete message. Not sure if it was an update or a message force pushed for a second time. So i clicked the see details just to see karaoke was added which i already knew from posts here a couple days ago.

So i just completed a hour and half drive and as soon as i selected park my cluster went crazy with messages about failures...

No park detected, flat tow enabled, trailer disconnected, blind spot system deactivated, park selection sensor not detected, pay attention,.... if there is a message it was scrolling across the screen.

Im terrified this thing is bricked and i wont be able to drive home.

Looking to sell my 21 f150 and wanted to throw on a rear bumper since old owner painted over the chrome paint chipped and dripped off. There is a 21 bap rear bumper with the dual exhaust near me for 200 paint matched. Paint matching the current one would run me 650 according to local shops. Wrap is around the same. Just trying to see if anyone has done the dual exhaust conversion to fit the bap bumper? For sure would be cheaper and look better than as is but worth the pain?.

EDIT: trucks full raptor swapped gen 3 suspension front and rear… fully flexed out off roading only pics i have of the bumper sorry if its knocking your ocd out of the park.

Hello the wise people of Ford Reddit, I have a 2010 5.4 Platinum and I’ve noticed for some time now that it feels like driving a boat and that upgrading the suspension might be in order.
I’m currently stock height with 18” wheels and 34 tires so I do rub just a little at full lock.
With this being a 2010 and the 5.4 platform I obviously don’t want to dump a lot into it so I’m looking at doing the 5100s set at 1-1.5” lift (just enough to not rub).
So my question is as follows- besides the shocks should I replace anything else (coils,UCAs, etc) or am I good to just get the set from Shock surplus and call it a day?
I don’t off-road much outside of camping trips and hunting in the fall. From what I’ve see so far I have a good amount of rust accumulated from its first 7 years in Canada so I’m imagining it’ll be a b*tch to do anyway.
Thank you

Was coming over the top of a hill and just before the top the temp rapidly climbed and white coolant smoke came out of my vents. I got it stopped as quick as I could but had to coast a tiny bit while it was red on the temp gauge. See pic for failed Ford part 155k miles. Am I cooked? Did I toast the motor? Went to get parts and haven't checked for milky oil yet. Hoping the motor and turbos didn't get fried. Unfortunately it doesn't look like there's a metal replacement part.

2016 XLT 2.7l w/ 150k miles. I've been having this issue for awhile now. The first part of the video is the 3rd gear issue and the second part is driving uphill, with no change to how I am pressing the gas pedal. I have replaced and tried these so far:

• throttle body
• all sensors for the air intake
• driver side turbo (trying to fix limp mode on highway)
• a new turbo pressure solenoid (which I swapped back because the new one gave me a P1015 code)
• new spark plugs
• PCM re-learn for throttle body
• gas pedal position calibrate

I have aftermarket intake and exhaust, but this was going on before I changed those. It is also going into limp mode with P0299 (turbo underboost) when on the highway randomly which I think may be related to this. I haven't replaced the passenger side turbo.

If I try and gas it through the rpm drop the truck lags and goes into limp mode with the same code, and will sometimes go into limp mode going up big hills. While in 5th gear my RPMs will jump up quickly when I barely press down on the gas pedal like at the start of the second clip.

It seems to do it more often when it is hot out, and almost never went into limp mode this past winter.

I was wondering if anyone has seen this before, or knows what might be wrong? I have scoured f150 forums for the past 2 years off and on and nothing seems to be doing it.

Everyday I wake up just so happy with the Antimatter Blue with BAP. Looks so good in every lighting and weather. Washed and waxed, so the beading of water looks cool imo

2019 F150 2.7 ecoboost STX - 201k miles

Hi guys, my 2019 has started the death spiral of the torque converter rumbles that has advanced to very poor shifting. The truck has been maintained well and this is the only mechanical issue. I know transmission rebuild or replacement is going to run me 7-9k which is most of the worth of the vehicle. I do not want to buy a new truck, but I don’t want to pay 9 grand for something else to fail and now I’m out 9k with a truck that’s worth nothing. Has anyone been in a similar situation- if so what decision did you make/do you regret it? Thank you.

Hey guys - I recently purchased a 2025 F150 and installed Eibach 2” coilovers with 285 65r20 Ridge Grapplers tires - after the install I am now getting vibration in the accelerator pedal when driving - doesn’t matter if I am accelerating or not and I am not feeling any vibration in seat, steering wheel, floorboard, etc.

The tires were road force balanced and full alignment has been completed after coilover and tires were installed - anyone else have this issue or have any other ideas on what to check?

Thanks all!

I have a 2016 f150 with the 6r80. Last time the transmission’s oil was changed was 69k miles ago. I’ve read that it needs to be changed at 150k according to Ford, the transmission shop says every 100k and a lot of owners say 60k or 30k. Would it be “bad” to change it since people say changing out old oil isn’t good and will cause the transmission to slip?

Hi all hope you’re well. I’m looking at a 2023 f150 xlt 300a super crew with a 6.5 bed, I went to see the car yesterday, it was a lot more base model than what I’ve seen online since mostly online I’ve seen 302a and those numbers didn’t mean anything to me until yesterday 😭. If anybody had the same model, if you’ve done any upgrades / mods let me know ! Thank you

We picked up this gorgeous 2019 F150 last Friday for my husband. We love it! We traded his 2014 Mustang due to health issues resulting in him being unable to drive a manual anymore.

What's our take on the 2.7L? What should I be watching out for, and what should I pay extra attention to, aside from typical maintenance?

I’m a little distraught, I had my hopes set on a 2020 king ranch however I didn’t like the size of the screen, but I’m in love with the seats. I looked at a 2021 and the screen is premium! However I am disappointed that they changed the seats, they don’t have that orange leather look as before, they seem darker. Wtf Ford.

2014 F150 with the 5.0 at 170k. Having a hard time diagnosing the source of the leak. Heater core hose broke the other day and replaced it but there is still a leak. From underneath, I can’t see where it’s coming from but it’s running down the passenger side, tracking back under approximately the seats and dripping consistently from there.

Passed pressure test and only leaks when running but when I turn the truck off I can smell burning coolant. Suspected spot was water pump but don’t have the ability to confirm and want to troubleshoot as much as possible before taking it to a dealership

I'm trying to track down a noise on my 2018 F-150 XLT 5.0L (2WD) with about 170,000 miles.

Here are the symptoms.

-Only happens when the engine is cold. Completely goes away once the truck is fully warmed up.

-Most noticeable around 2,000 RPM.

Happens during acceleration through that RPM range

-Sounds like a metallic rapid chatter. Almost like a zip tie or baseball card hitting bicycle spokes.

-I can reproduce it by lightly holding the throttle around 2,000 RPM while in Drive. It doesn't seem to do it at all when just revving in Park.

No noticeable engine vibration, no check engine light, and the truck otherwise runs great.

So far I've considered a loose heat shield or exhaust bracket. (couldn't find anything)

I came across a few posts mentioning spark knock, but since it only happens cold and disappears once everything is hot, I'm not convinced that's it.

Has anyone with a high-mileage 5.0 experienced something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause?

Thanks in advance.

I recently discovered a StartX installed on my used 2017 F-150 (wasn’t listed equipment from the national used retailer I purchased through). Lock-unlock-lock does start the engine & the cluster pops the “to drive, turn key on” notification so the truck knows it’s been started remotely - however I don’t have the remote start settings & no accessories cut on.

I don’t have a Windows laptop so FORscan isn’t an option & my dealer understandably declined to mess with it given the remote start is 3rd party.

Figuring I’m out of luck unless I can find an independent shop with FORscan, but might be cheaper to just buy a used laptop. Any other solutions I’m missing?

2017 XLT 3.6L Ecoboost, 136k

1989 xlt lariat (cruise control, ac, manual windows) black/ grey interior, scarlet red? possibly fire truck red, sclb four speed 302w 4x4. I know she’s common but wanted a rough estimate

Looking at a 2026 F150 Lariat. Just wondering how many inches is it from the backseat bench up to the bottom of the window sill? Asking for my dog.

Been searching for a while and today I found my exact speck with every single option I want!
1958 miles away, in New Jersey… the search continues.

Been searching for a while and today I found my exact speck with every single option I want!
1958 miles away, in New Jersey… the search continues.

I have a 2016 F-150 FX4 4WD SuperCrew with the 3.5 EcoBoost and about 190,000 miles.
My goal is to restore the factory ride quality—not level it or make it stiffer.
I already purchased Bilstein B6 4600 rear shocks. I was planning to do Bilstein fronts too, but realized they don’t come with new coil springs, and I’d prefer complete bolt-in front assemblies rather than reusing 192k-mile springs or paying to swap them.
I’m considering:
Front: KYB Strut-Plus complete assemblies
Rear: Bilstein B6 4600 shocks
Has anyone run this combination?
How does it ride compared to stock?
Would you go this route, or would you choose something different for a factory-height daily driver?
I’m looking for long-term reliability and comfort more than off-road performance.