1989 xlt lariat (cruise control, ac, manual windows) black/ grey interior, scarlet red? possibly fire truck red, sclb four speed 302w 4x4. I know she’s common but wanted a rough estimate

Why is the dealership required to move your seat so it’s not even close to where it was. I get that people are different sizes, but they could just stick with forward, instead of moving it up and down and tilting it all over the place. I’m the only one who drives my truck, so I set the seat ages ago and all I know is it’s all tilted out of whack now.

Looking to sell my 21 f150 and wanted to throw on a rear bumper since old owner painted over the chrome paint chipped and dripped off. There is a 21 bap rear bumper with the dual exhaust near me for 200 paint matched. Paint matching the current one would run me 650 according to local shops. Wrap is around the same. Just trying to see if anyone has done the dual exhaust conversion to fit the bap bumper? For sure would be cheaper and look better than as is but worth the pain?.

I’m a little distraught, I had my hopes set on a 2020 king ranch however I didn’t like the size of the screen, but I’m in love with the seats. I looked at a 2021 and the screen is premium! However I am disappointed that they changed the seats, they don’t have that orange leather look as before, they seem darker. Wtf Ford.

Thanks in advance for any advice but I’m freaking out I was trying to add a fuse to my 2013 f150 xlt 5.0 and I got it working but the truck won’t start so I undid my work and realized that some of the fuses I was trying to use were important like the accessorie/run fuse and the ignition fuse so I made sure everything was put back and then checked all the relays and harnesses and the front fuses that I didn’t even touch and the truck still won’t start so any ideas plus it’s also worth mentioning that I had a key programmed and the my key system reset by a pretty old locksmith who might have missed something in programming but it ran all day today

I have a 2016 f150 with the 6r80. Last time the transmission’s oil was changed was 69k miles ago. I’ve read that it needs to be changed at 150k according to Ford, the transmission shop says every 100k and a lot of owners say 60k or 30k. Would it be “bad” to change it since people say changing out old oil isn’t good and will cause the transmission to slip?

Been searching for a while and today I found my exact speck with every single option I want!
1958 miles away, in New Jersey… the search continues.

I have a 2016 F-150 FX4 4WD SuperCrew with the 3.5 EcoBoost and about 190,000 miles.
My goal is to restore the factory ride quality—not level it or make it stiffer.
I already purchased Bilstein B6 4600 rear shocks. I was planning to do Bilstein fronts too, but realized they don’t come with new coil springs, and I’d prefer complete bolt-in front assemblies rather than reusing 192k-mile springs or paying to swap them.
I’m considering:
Front: KYB Strut-Plus complete assemblies
Rear: Bilstein B6 4600 shocks
Has anyone run this combination?
How does it ride compared to stock?
Would you go this route, or would you choose something different for a factory-height daily driver?
I’m looking for long-term reliability and comfort more than off-road performance.

I just bought a 26 stx. The seats were fine until I did a long drive. They are so uncomfortable now. Im not sure exactly where its uncomfortable. But it makes me not want to drive it. For one the seats feel too narrow and the bolster are too big. Im thinking I might need to go with an aftermarket seat with an air bag

I'm trying to track down a noise on my 2018 F-150 XLT 5.0L (2WD) with about 170,000 miles.

Here are the symptoms.

-Only happens when the engine is cold. Completely goes away once the truck is fully warmed up.

-Most noticeable around 2,000 RPM.

Happens during acceleration through that RPM range

-Sounds like a metallic rapid chatter. Almost like a zip tie or baseball card hitting bicycle spokes.

-I can reproduce it by lightly holding the throttle around 2,000 RPM while in Drive. It doesn't seem to do it at all when just revving in Park.

No noticeable engine vibration, no check engine light, and the truck otherwise runs great.

So far I've considered a loose heat shield or exhaust bracket. (couldn't find anything)

I came across a few posts mentioning spark knock, but since it only happens cold and disappears once everything is hot, I'm not convinced that's it.

Has anyone with a high-mileage 5.0 experienced something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause?

Thanks in advance.

We picked up this gorgeous 2019 F150 last Friday for my husband. We love it! We traded his 2014 Mustang due to health issues resulting in him being unable to drive a manual anymore.

What's our take on the 2.7L? What should I be watching out for, and what should I pay extra attention to, aside from typical maintenance?

Designed some brackets to mount a 1UP bike rack up against the bed rails. They’re flush with the top of the bed and have room to adjust mounting positions left and right. The brackets get sandwiched between the bed sides and box link plates, maintaining full box link functionality. They are high clearance enough for my decked drawer to easily fit underneath.

Though I designed it around a 1UP roof rack, most any other similar rack should work or be easily adapted to work. I’m also thinking about putting a second set on the passenger side in order to mount a roof top tent to be as low profile as possible. Either way, I’ve got options for the future of these.

I’d love to hear any suggestions or questions that y’all may have. Might be doing a V2 in the future.

I just bought these puppies for my 2015. Do I need anything else (besides an alignment)?

Hello the wise people of Ford Reddit, I have a 2010 5.4 Platinum and I’ve noticed for some time now that it feels like driving a boat and that upgrading the suspension might be in order.
I’m currently stock height with 18” wheels and 34 tires so I do rub just a little at full lock.
With this being a 2010 and the 5.4 platform I obviously don’t want to dump a lot into it so I’m looking at doing the 5100s set at 1-1.5” lift (just enough to not rub).
So my question is as follows- besides the shocks should I replace anything else (coils,UCAs, etc) or am I good to just get the set from Shock surplus and call it a day?
I don’t off-road much outside of camping trips and hunting in the fall. From what I’ve see so far I have a good amount of rust accumulated from its first 7 years in Canada so I’m imagining it’ll be a b*tch to do anyway.
Thank you

Everyday I wake up just so happy with the Antimatter Blue with BAP. Looks so good in every lighting and weather. Washed and waxed, so the beading of water looks cool imo

Hey guys - I recently purchased a 2025 F150 and installed Eibach 2” coilovers with 285 65r20 Ridge Grapplers tires - after the install I am now getting vibration in the accelerator pedal when driving - doesn’t matter if I am accelerating or not and I am not feeling any vibration in seat, steering wheel, floorboard, etc.

The tires were road force balanced and full alignment has been completed after coilover and tires were installed - anyone else have this issue or have any other ideas on what to check?

Thanks all!

2014 F150 with the 5.0 at 170k. Having a hard time diagnosing the source of the leak. Heater core hose broke the other day and replaced it but there is still a leak. From underneath, I can’t see where it’s coming from but it’s running down the passenger side, tracking back under approximately the seats and dripping consistently from there.

Passed pressure test and only leaks when running but when I turn the truck off I can smell burning coolant. Suspected spot was water pump but don’t have the ability to confirm and want to troubleshoot as much as possible before taking it to a dealership

I recently discovered a StartX installed on my used 2017 F-150 (wasn’t listed equipment from the national used retailer I purchased through). Lock-unlock-lock does start the engine & the cluster pops the “to drive, turn key on” notification so the truck knows it’s been started remotely - however I don’t have the remote start settings & no accessories cut on.

I don’t have a Windows laptop so FORscan isn’t an option & my dealer understandably declined to mess with it given the remote start is 3rd party.

Figuring I’m out of luck unless I can find an independent shop with FORscan, but might be cheaper to just buy a used laptop. Any other solutions I’m missing?

2017 XLT 3.6L Ecoboost, 136k

Looking at a 2026 F150 Lariat. Just wondering how many inches is it from the backseat bench up to the bottom of the window sill? Asking for my dog.

Been searching for a while and today I found my exact speck with every single option I want!
1958 miles away, in New Jersey… the search continues.

2019 2.7 with 80k miles. Purchased with 63k and thanks to input here and another places I paid $4k for a 3 year 36k miles ford service plan.

Was lurching into 4th and 5th, not terrible but noticeable.

They first rebuilt valve body before doing a complete rebuild with new cdf and all sorts of other parts. 24 hours of shop time plus parts, the service plan was a good buy for me.

Only issue yet and hopefully ever! Love my f150; love my service plan.

2021 f150 with 2.7 ecoboost just started to make this metal ting noise when accelerating. Only happens when foot is on the gas. Any idea what this could be? I looked under the truck and can’t see any screws loose.