Hi guys. I git these speakers and i'm planing to use them for phono and cd. Can you tell anything about quality/Performance with these pictures? There is no "sticker" or brand on them, guess they are self build. Any infos you can see? The are very heave and the build quality is very good. Thx for the help!

Hello! After a looong process i have my subwoofer built, installed, banging and booming. The subwoofer is Alpine R2W12-D4 wired @2ohms and paired with MDS torque t5 amplifier. Enclosure volume is at 43 litres or 1,5 ft³ with tuning frequency of 34hz.

The enclosure is made from 30mm or 1 inch 3/16 MDF. All parts were CNC machined, and the enclosure finished with matt white paint and matt lacquer on top. The amplifier board is attached with rubber insulators/absorbers that are screwed to the enclosure with M4 thread inserts.

Really satisfied how it turned out and how well it plays!

Over half a year ago I bought the parts for the SB Acoustics arya speaker kit, without the cabinet. I had build the overnight sensations before and felt like building something a bit bigger without breaking the bank. I could only work on it some weekends but wasn't in a rush, so after about 6 months it is finished. Some small imperfections are visible, but mainly because i know they're there. I am really happy with how they look and sound, but I feel i should really upgrade my amplifier in the near future.

The subwoofers behave quite differently, but they're all in the same price range.

Which sub would you recommend? The DD is more for deep bass, and the Deep Bass is more for higher bass.

But overall, which would you recommend buying?

hi, i already had tpa3116d2 (2.1) fake board with 16 pin chinese chipset, I mistakenly shorted it when I'm testing speakers with battery it connected with amp unfortunately. one side started to distortion.

I need new board tpa3116d2 (2.1), which is original yet affordable, region: India . budget - 500-750 / 5-8 dollars (it's my saved money tho I have only 500 now )

suggest other amp board too which is reliable and have 2.1 channel

Hi friends! I have a little experience in acoustics. I understand that I have problems with the room and basic equipment, but I’m asking for advice on how to make them work together!

In REW, I measured using a Behringer ECM8000 (calibrated with the Motu M2 sound card and the mic itself) for the left channel of the Klipsch RP600M2. So far, I only have an Onkyo TX-SR3100DAB receiver and a Klipsch R100SW subwoofer. In the future, I want to replace the receiver with an Onkyo RZ-50 or Marantz Cinema 50 with built-in Dirac — maybe that will help me.

The problem with the small room is bass boom and dips (nulls). I don’t have the option to cover everything with panels; at most I can put a bass trap in the loudest corner and place sound-absorbing panels behind the speakers on the walls. Do you think a new receiver with Dirac or a MiniDSP 2x4 HD for EQ will help?

I made a table based on the average microphone directivity at angles of 0, 45, and 90 degrees to determine the low, mid, and high frequency characteristics.

Whomst amongst you would try to save this?

I am extremely new to this and just wanted to see if I could learn something.

I have two 38 ohm headphone speakers and I really want to make a nice little portable speaker with them, but I don't know witch amp to use.

I am making a speaker array that has ten 4 ohm speakers that are wired in series. I need a amplifier that can drive 2 of thoose arrays and must make up to 2 watts

Hello,

For this project, I wanted to move away from the conventional bookshelf speaker shape and experiment with a driver from Kartesian, a French manufacturer that doesn't get much exposure outside Europe. I chose the WIB 120 vHe, loaded in a 12 L enclosure and originally tuned to around 50 Hz.

The biggest challenge was the port design.

A short port produced noticeable chuffing at higher SPLs, while a longer or larger-diameter port would have performed better acoustically but was almost impossible to fit inside the enclosure. I also considered using a passive radiator, but with the driver's Qts of 0.66, it wasn't an ideal solution.

The unconventional cabinet geometry made things even more complicated. Internal space is extremely limited, and the port had to follow the contours of the enclosure. In practice, this resulted in insufficient pressure for the bass-reflex alignment to work as intended, along with excessive port noise.

Solution

• Sealed the original port and added a smaller rear-mounted port.
• Lined the enclosure with 2 mm felt to reduce internal reflections, slow the airflow, and minimize port noise.
• Simplified the internal layout of the second cabinet to reduce turbulence while keeping both speakers externally identical.

Since these speakers are mainly used on a desktop, I handled the low-end with DSP.

Configuration 1 (stand-alone):

• -6 dB at 54 Hz

Configuration 2 (optimized desktop setup):

• Crossed over to an isobaric push-pull subwoofer at 120 Hz using a 24 dB/oct Linkwitz-Riley crossover.

One thing that really impressed me is how clean the Kartesian driver is. Distortion stays remarkably low throughout the audible range, making it a very enjoyable full-range driver to listen to.

Finish

I went back and forth on the color scheme for this build.

Since I also wanted to experiment with wood finishes on 3D-printed parts, I used Libéron wood stain (see photos). Another approach that should work well would be using alcohol-based marker refills (such as Copic inks) applied in multiple shades to create a more natural wood effect.

I've included photos of the build along with measurement data.

I'd be happy to answer any questions or discuss the design choices.

I just got a speaker rack of 6 6.5s and cup holder delete with 2 6.5s , any opinions on a direction to go for the loudest and clearest speakers ? Don’t have any spots for tweeters but if there is an alternative option to make them clearer what would that be? Budget of around 1500 for speakers and amp

Now that my 8" mids arrived today (a month late) I can finally start playing with fitment. Portable 12" transmission line sub with air motion transformer tweeters.

Can't believe I've ran Orion subs for years and slept on these cobalt mids. They scream 😂

And fosgate crossovers from an old component set I had laying around.

Next update will be once its done, hopefully within the next couple weekends.

Hi,
I’m currently working on my first build. I made the silly mistake of buying the wire instead of the measured inductors (couldn’t get any shipped to my country for a reasonable price). Getting hold of an LCR meter is proving to be too hard. I was wondering if anyone had a gauge on how close I can get to 1mh but using the formula and manually winding one.
Thanks for your help!

Bought this Taramps Pro 2.4S for my car, but decided not to use it. Then I had the idea of grabbing an old 120VAC to 12V/1A plug converter from an unused modem...spliced the wires and Bob's your uncle! The Taramps crossover are like $49 now before tax/shipping.

If you should try this...make sure the converter will supply at least 0.6A at 12V.

For more money you can get the 2.4BT...you can connect to it with your phone and make tweaks. Sadly there's no interface using a computer...if it did it would be the bomb.

Could you imagine being able to sample response and make crossover tweaks on a laptop for cheap? Guess you can do it from your phone, but not as cool.

Decided to hop on the DIY apache 3800 train and build my own. Rough around the edges yet, but it's sealed up and functional.

PRV Audio slimline 6CX380-4
Dayton Audio ND140-PR
ZK-1602T amp
5000mah 24v battery with integrated charging port
Stainless marine power switch
Marine volt meter
Kilmat sound deadener

Made from Birch Ply and coated with Osmo Polyx hard wax oil. Plays pretty flat down to 20Hz.

Edit: I should have mentioned more details!

First off, I did not construct the box myself, it was made by a company near me that makes kitchen cabinets - apologies for not making that clear.

I designed it in Fusion 360 and sent them the drawings.

Everything else I did myself (calculations for volume, driver mounting, finishing/waxing, wiring, DSP, internal bracing etc). It’s made from 18mm Birch Ply with a double baffle, a recess for the driver, and a lip around the front to allow you to lay it flat on its front for transport.

The driver is a 12” SB34NRX75-6 from SB Acoustics and the amplifier is a Hypex Fusion FA251.

Internal volume is 122L or thereabouts and is sealed.

I have a two channel amplifier board and I want to connect a midrange woofer and tweeter.

Is this the correct way to connect them or will it destroy the tweeter?

The woofer has is 30W RMS and the tweeter is 15W RMS, the amp is 2 x 15W @ 4ohms.

My first time installing sub in my car. I have a DD audio 510e that i want to build a homemade ported box for. I want 37L space and 38Hz, i want to build the box up against the backseat rest in the trunk. I want to be able to use the removable floor panel to acces the space underneath. My car is a bmw e91, can someone who is experienced and/or has built something like this before help me with drawings and/or dimensions to this?

Hello, This time around, I tackled two other prototypes I built a few months ago.

If I had to do it over again, I’d paint the parts before assembly to get much cleaner lines and a more premium finish.

I got two 6ohm 160w max, 80w average drivers. I need to source an amp but I don’t know the power rating I need. My math says 160w/24v =6,6amps for each channel, therefore would I need a 24v 13a power supply for a stereo amplifier? I have dealt with smaller drivers before but not this size. thank you!

Hi - is there any (very, very easy) way I can turn this into a speaker for my phone, physically connected or otherwise?

I had an idea to use four Pioneer car speakers (in photo) 50w rms 4oms 89db
and a car stereo I no longer use to build a home "hi-fi" system; I’ve already figured out how to power and build it. The only issue is that Pioneer doesn't provide Thiele/Small parameters, so I'll have to calculate them myself. Also, I'm not sure how they'll sound or whether I should go with a sealed enclosure or a bass-reflex design—what do you think I should do? And how would they sound? Keep in mind that this is a low-budget project.

If they worked well, I was also thinking of adding a subwoofer. active via sub out of the radio and a pair of tweeters (crossover connected) to put together a “””good””” system.

Hey guys,

Glad to join this sub

I'm pretty excited to be building a Bluetooth speaker of my own from scratch. I have a list of parts, which I guess will work. Not too sure about how I'm gonna manage wiring; I guess I'll need to purchase more connectors? I will need help as I go ahead. Thanks in advance!