I have a pair of boAt Airdopes 281. Unfortunately, I accidentally damaged the speaker drivers by puncturing them with a needle, so the audio quality is now ruined.

Apart from that, the USB Type-C charging port has become unreliable. It only charges if I wiggle or hold the cable at a certain angle, so I suspect the port is either worn out or has cracked solder joints.

Current status:

\- Model: boAt Airdopes 281

\- Bluetooth: v5.3

\- Battery life: Up to 35 hours (with case)

\- Drivers: 10 mm dynamic drivers

\- Charging: USB Type-C

\- Water resistance: IPX5

\- Touch controls: Working

\- Pairing/Bluetooth: Working

\- Battery: Working

\- Charging case: Working except for the loose USB-C port

Is it realistically possible to replace the speaker drivers and the USB-C port at home with basic soldering skills, or are these parts too difficult to source and replace?

Would it make more sense to take them to a mobile/electronics repair shop, or would the repair likely cost more than the earbuds are worth?

I'd appreciate advice from anyone who has repaired TWS earbuds before.

Hey - I made a post yesterday where I was wary of keeping my Sony MV1s but have since started to like them quite a lot.

However, they heat up my ears worse than my Beyerdynamic closed backs.

Do we know of any velour/breathable material replacement pads that do not affect sound too much? Thanks

I am replacing the battery for the headphones due to a spicy pillow. The new battery is similar in capacity but it wont fit in the earcup and i want to reprint the whole cup. Does anyone have a file for it?

My ear tips inside got dirt but i tried to clean it but i think it’s cut off from inside so where i can get original medium tips

I owned sennheiser RS127s for a while, long before getting into the audiophile realm. even after, i have relied on them as they have stellar range since their pure analog signal transmission doesnt make them prone to cutting out due to missing bits, the signal just gets noisier the further you move away, which is fine...

they have a few glaring issues that im slowly working my way through.

the first succesfull upgrade was getting an RS140 base station which lets you turn off the compressor

for the next step i wanna upgrade the headphones sound itself. i have found that the headphones sound better when cupping the meshes with my hands, which leads me to believe one of the other weakspots, the tiny driver, would benefit from being in a closed echochamber.

now this is a more involved mod so i was looking for pointers on how to approach this (also maybe find out wether or not a driver upgrade is an option here)

hey yall, I have a pair of old headphones im modding to try and make them sound up to par with modern headphones. They are KOSS K6 LC, with 89mm drivers (ik its insane) im going to replace them with 50mm drivers and use the extra space for electronics(im using the main board from some old headphones to make them wireless) Im picking between the peerless by tymphany and Ole Wolff 50mm.

there is a pretty big price difference between the 2, and i wanted to know if the quality difference is big enough to justify this.

(PS: Im not married to the idea of using an old board, might buy some parts and try to make something myself but that seems like a pain considering this is my first time trying something like this)

Ole Wolff: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ole-wolff-electronics-inc/OWR-5088TA-32/16343863

Peerless: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/peerless-by-tymphany/HPD-50N25PR00-32/6211129

i've noticed something interesting... the "best" headphones on review sites aren't always the ones people actually keep using lol

i'm looking for something i'll wear almost every day for music, work, flights, and random youtube binges. i'd rather buy one pair that nails the basics than keep upgrading every year

what over-ear headphones have become your default pair, and what keeps you coming back to them?

I’ve have a simple method to pull out the cable from the earbuds.
See picture and loop this around between the plastic cable cap and earbud m. Hold the earbud firmly and pull firmly. It’s an old carrying strap for an old Nokia phone

Hey folks!

I have a pair of CFA Cascades that I love, and I'm looking for replacement earpads for them. Searching online for listings has been rather unfruitful, and CFA themselves no longer stock earpads for those headphones.

Does anyone out there know of a good solution for the Cascades? I’d hate to retire the Cascade because the lazy company decided to stop selling spares.

Either the standard leather or the perforated cloth version, would be great to have both.

Thank you.

im using thin wire and twist it around the 2 wire.now i can slide up and down

im using thin wire ,put into the small hole on the middle small metal alligator clip and twist it on mid cable.now i can clamp it stronger on clothes

Any tips to change the ear pads of JBL live headphones? I do not have tools and would prefer to pay for the service. My current location is Seoul.

Have you airbrushed your Sony XM4 headphones?

If so, any tips or any how to videos or images for examples.

I have some color ideas and a theme in mind, but looking for some inspiration.

These are older and do not have a warranty. I do not use the touch pad on the side.

Hello, after few months of use i found myself in a situation where the left module was quieter, as is my first time experience i figured out the air filter was clogged, so i took it off and sound is well restored, i took the chance to take off the right module but now i dont have a replacement, looking on aliexpress there are some made of steel but different diameter size, unfortunately i dont have a caliber to measure the internal diameter but with an M tape it looks to be 4.5mm, would anyone with more info tell me more about it? thanks

Afternoon/early evening everyone,

Just a while ago I purchased a used Marv Golden (not MG as in the Music Gear brand) aviation headset for modding purposes (I like that vintage/aviator look)

I didn't think too much about it at the time because I had aspirations to turn them into a bluetooth headset, but I saw a few things since purchasing about impedence being different between aviators and normal headphones

From what I've gathered this is strictly when it comes to the microphone? If it is then it's not that big of a issue since I would likely replace that with one that works on a 3.5mm jack (I'm hoping to make them Bluetooth but I'm keeping my options open to 3.5mm for standard plug and play)

Essentially I just wanted to check and make sure that the actual speakers/drivers in the ear cups won't have a issue converting from a 1/4inch dual jack standard General Aviation cable, to a smaller 4 strand 3.5mm cable (if necessary I can likely replace them with some drivers from a old busted headset or get a cheap new wired set to Frankenstein the parts from)

Also if anyone has tips on setting up a decent bluetooth circuit that would be appreciated as well (it may end up with me just using the cord from the broken Turtle Beach set I was given for parts since it is already 4 strand with built in mic and volume controls, or a GA to 3.5mm converter but that's a last resort)

Thanks in advance

Idk if this is the right place to asked but I want to find this specific Sennheiser headphone model or driver that is popular to be put into an earclip mod.

I know that maybe all headphones can be modded into one, but I need to find this specific Sennheiser model because I saw it once sold already modded.

One thing I remember is that the ear clip mod is popular for this sennheiser model and cheap but not too cheap. And it's also not the 'mainline' model.

Hey there!

Just wanted to show my upgrade of the standard modmic wireless battery, since the original battery was down to keep power a couple of hours now from the original 10-12.
It was a quick 10 min job if you have soldering equipment at hand.
1: Opened up the 3 screws on the case
2: Took out the PCB
3: Heated the PCB 10 seconds with a hairdryer for the adhesive to loosen up and removed the battery slowly
4: Desolder the original 250mAh battery wires and clean the board with IPA
5: Prepare the new 350mAh battery by cutting the connector and tin the wires.
6: Solder the wires into the holes carefully with the red wire closest to the port.
7: Assemble the case carefully to not squish any wires with the case. It's a tight fit, but it will close fully when putting back the screws.

This will theoretically increase the battery life up to almost 17 hours of continuous use with minimal weight gain.

Edit: spelling

I’ve been looking into this mod recently. I was thinking about doing it because my Porta Pros (which I use every day) fell victim to my kitten, and the cable broke into three pieces. I’d been thinking about doing a mod, and now I’m forced to rewire them, but I saw this and I like the quality of the materials (according to the reviews, it’s pretty sturdy aluminum). I’ve only seen this mod on the KSC75s, and I even saw a note saying they did NOT recommend doing it on the Porta Pros. However, before making any impulse purchases, I want to confirm my research with the experts (you guys).

What do you think of this mod kit for the Porta Pros?

sennheiser 1.00 with tri clarion eartip.it fit perfectly and comfortable. i also cut the eartip stem a bit so it can fit deep in my ear.

I have some cheap headphones that are broken so I can no longer wear them but all the electronics still work. I have started taking them apart even more and there is a cord connecting the right half of the headphones to the left. If I cut this wire will the microphone still work? Also if I can get into the headphones more, can I cut all wires connected to the speaker portion as long as I keep everything between the aux cord and the microphone?

Basically, what can I get rid of and the microphone still work?

used mdr 7506 diagram as base since they seem to share same diagram with cd900st, are these wiring correct? assuming i reused an old wire