This is the hardest working luxury camry in the world

Right after hitting 1,000 miles on my new 2026 4Runner, I took it to my local dealership yesterday for its first oil change. They couldn’t understand why I wanted it done so soon and tried to charge me $100, claiming ToyotaCare wouldn't cover it before 10,000 miles. After striking out with TWO service advisors, I spoke with the Service Manager. As a person who takes care of his cars, I’ve always done a 1,000-mile break in oil change and 5,000 mile intervals thereafter. They finally agreed to use one of my included ToyotaCare services, and later called to say the truck was ready.

I drove maybe half a block and something told me to pull over and check under the hood. Sure enough, the tech completely forgot to put the oil cap back on, and engine oil had sprayed all over the engine bay and soaked the hood insulator pad.

I immediately brought it back. They gave me a Prius loaner and promised to thoroughly detail and degrease the engine bay, replace the soaked hood pad, and top off the fluids. They delivered the truck back to my house today, but all they did was wipe down the top plastic engine cover with some greasy tire shine… the rest of the engine bay, hoses, battery, and fuse box were still covered in oil splatter. You can barely tell in some of the pictures, but there’s a thin coat of oil everywhere.

When I sent photos to the Service Manager and General Manager, the Service Manager’s response was: "I can come and pick it back up. I looked it over before releasing the vehicle and I didn’t see those."

It’s been a while since I’ve had to use a dealership service department… is this kind of incompetence and deflection normal now? Do Toyota service departments usually treat customers and brand-new vehicles like this? If the engine bay still looks like trash after they bring it back a second time, what options do I actually have?

Been car shopping for quite a while now it’s been hard to find quality cars that have been maintained in my area within my budget. I came across this car a 2007 Toyota Avalon I know it’s super old but it stands out to me because its one owner with diligent maintenance. Dealer is asking 6995 I believe mileage is 130k would of Course get a pre purchase inspection. Even though it’s a Toyota should I just pass because of the age?

Hello,

I’m writing to see if anybody had the same problem as me.

I have a 2013 Yaris, and the knob of the ac (picture) is loose, so I can’t close the circuit to get fresh air, just the one come from outside.

Do you guys have any ideia how to fix this?

Thanks a lot

Currently in process of lemon law-ing my 2025 Tucson PHEV. I love the comfort and ride of the car, but should this case be successful, I am looking at switching to Toyota. Overall, should I make the switch I have narrowed it down to the Crown Signia or RAV4 Plug-In or regular, with an honorable mention to the Highlander.

Now, one of the things I am not crazy about in my Tucson is the turning radius -- I wish U-turns and parking were a bit easier. The RAV4 would definitely resolve this concern, BUT the interior build quality would be a step down from my Tucson, whereas the Crown Signia would probably be a more lateral shift or step up in build quality, though the turning radius is about the same as the Tucson, if not slightly wider.

For those who have driven both the CS and RAV4, are there any distinct traits to note, especially as it comes to maneuverability? Obviously, the RAV4 has a tighter turning radius, but the Crown Signia is slightly lower to the ground for better traction. Does this position possibly make tighter turns easier?

Note that before my Tucson, I always drove sedans, but got spine surgery so needed something more upright. This would be my first ever station wagon, and the seating position even then might still be low, but likely manageable.

Thanks all!

Is it advisable to buy extended warranty for a new camry? It is around 3,000 CAD. How long is this extended warranty and how does it compare to the default warranty of 3 years.

Loyalty

Literally no explaining. Should I call them or just wait?

I've got a kinda odd question regarding the Rav4. My mom just bought a 2025 rav4 and is looking to tow a trailer. I looked up the model and it says that the max tow is 1750. I see other models are listed having more but her's is listed as 1750 on the car, on the vin look up and everywhere I've looked on line.

Here is the problem. someone at the dealership told her that toyota "updated" the towing capacity on the 2025's when they 2026's were released. I can find no information online about this change. Does anyone know what he was talking about? my mom is looking to buy a trailer and of course is pushing the 2500 limit he told her it now has.

Hello,

I own a 2022 RAV4 with a power liftgate. In 2023, the right rear hatch was replaced after an accident. I have not gotten any other repairs or work done afterwards. Since the repair, the liftgate has occasionally had trouble closing. Yesterday, it became completely unresponsive and would not open at all.

I first took the vehicle to the Toyota collision center that performed the repair. They suggested I have the original Toyota dealership inspect it in case there was warranty. The dealership found that the rear hatch is not properly aligned with the body, causing uneven panel gaps. According to them, the misalignment is causing the hatch to contact the latch/sensor assembly too early, which is likely preventing the liftgate from operating correctly. They recommended having the body repair inspected and the hatch properly adjusted.

The collision center, however, says they did not work on the gate itself and believes the issue could simply be due to normal wear since the repair was completed three years ago. They also said they would contact my insurance company to see if they’ll cover the work. In addition, they feel the dealership’s diagnosis only described the symptom without identifying the underlying cause.

Does the dealership’s explanation suggest this is more likely related to the previous body repair, or could normal wear realistically cause this kind of issue? Also, my horn stopped working after getting the inspection at the dealership (it was still working the morning of the inspection). Could it be that due to their inspection?

I’m not familiar with automotive repairs, so I’m unsure how to proceed. Any advice on what my next steps should be would be greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone. Driver of a 2023 XSE here.

Purchased less than 12months/12k miles ago.

My dealership requires you to pay $150 towards a diagnostic service fee and if it is deemed covered you get the money back.

I wanna be careful to avoid taking it in and then being on the hook for $150.

My passenger window is messed up. When it goes down it seems off track and makes a screech noise. When I roll it back up it tries to automatically shoot back down once reaching the top.

Any folks have thoughts on if this would/should be covered by my Toyota Gold Certified Warranty?

I’m confused about what type of transmission the Corolla Cross Hybrid actually has. Everyone online talks about how it’s an eCVT, and online reviews and Google say the same, but when you build one on the Toyota website it shows that the ICE in the Hybrid powers a more traditional belt/chain driven CVTi-S with a physical 1st gear, as opposed to the eCVT that is listed when you build a RAV4 or Prius. Can anyone shed some light on what I’m missing? I’ve attached photos from a Corolla Cross Hybrid build as well as a RAV4 build.

Thanks!

sorry, the other keyfob post reminded me. is it a battery thing or something else? everything else on the keyfob works as normal but sometimes i have to go into my car and hit the trunk button because even if i hold it right next to the trunk sometimes it won't do anything. 2025 camry xse

Holy moly

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for ideas before my Toyota dealer appointment.

Vehicle:

• Toyota RAV4 (late 2023 / first registered June 2024)
• Toyota Smart Connect Plus (MM21)
• Head unit software version: HU SW 2200

I downloaded the official Toyota Europe map update (Spring 2026) from my Toyota account (VIN-specific) and followed the official USB update procedure.

The update reached about 1 minute remaining, then failed.

Since then:

• Navigation no longer works.
• Road Sign Assist (RSA) is unavailable.
• The rest of the infotainment system works normally.

Current error codes:

• 00000000FFFF0008
• 000000040025043C

I've already tried:

• multiple USB sticks (SanDisk, Lexar)
• FAT32 / MBR / 32 KB allocation unit (also tried 8KB and 16KB)
• fresh downloads from Toyota
• verified CRC/checksums
• multiple retries

The USB is detected correctly by the vehicle. Without the USB, the unit spends some time trying to load the maps before showing the error. With the USB inserted, it fails almost immediately.

At this point I'm wondering if the navigation database is left in an inconsistent state or if there is some hidden recovery/re-initialization procedure.

Has anyone experienced this on an MM21 / Toyota Smart Connect Plus unit?
Is there any recovery method besides replacing the head unit?

Thanks!

hello,
i have a 1988 corolla (the one with the pop-up headlights) not an SR5 neither a GTS its a base model with a 4A-F carbureted.
i had it for a while now and been enjoying every ride so far.
lately it developed a weird misfiring and its most likely related to the cylinder head and compression, i suspect the valves!.
so i figured that i might just upgrade it with something better (i was looking for an excuse and i just got it, lol)
so I'm asking what can i put on this thing?
I'm thinking a 4afe head?
maybe a 4age??
a turbo??
is that even possible or should i just get a full new engine?

Why Toyota Stopped doing Facelifts?

Noticed this after COVID and no Toyota do exterior design mid-cycle refresh updates anymore since

Has there been reason given as to why? Or is it just cost-cutting sweeping under rug??

I recently purchased a 2026 Corolla Hybrid from Swickard Toyota 101, and while the sales team was fine, my experience with the Finance Department was deeply concerning.

Unauthorized Inflation of Contract: The agreed-upon "Amount Financed" (after my down payment) was approximately $23,578. However, the Finance Manager who handled my case did not provide a copy of the Retail Installment Sale Contract during the signing process. When I finally received the document via email the next day, the amount had been inflated to $30,629. This included over $7,000 in warranties and add-ons that I never requested or authorized.

Misleading Communication: When I confronted the Finance Manager about this $7,000 discrepancy, he sent me an email claiming that "the money goes to the bank, not to you" and insisted that I did not need to sign a new contract. As a consumer, I found this statement to be highly misleading and an attempt to prevent me from correcting an inaccurate contract.

The "Digital Signature" Issue: When I escalated the matter to the Managerment, I was shown a digital signature page with the inflated numbers. I am 100% certain that this specific page, with these specific dollar amounts, was never disclosed, shown, or explained to me during the electronic signing process.

Resolution only after Legal Mention: The management initially claimed the loan was already funded and could not be canceled. However, once I informed them that I would be consulting with my lawyer and accountant, their position changed instantly. They suddenly admitted the loan had not been processed and allowed me to void the contract and pay the agreed-upon price in cash.

Final Advice: If you do not have choices of other dealership, but have to buy a car with swickard 101, DO NOT leave the building without a physical, printed copy of your signed contract. Verify the "Amount Financed" line by line. Proceed with extreme caution!!!

Title. Every time I manually unlock my car, the alarm goes off. Once it eventually stops I try to start the car, but the engine won't turn on and the alarm periodically starts again. Is there a fix for this? The dealership is already closed and I have an important day at work tomorrow.

In my opinion the Camry, CHR, LC300, LC250 Prado, and HiLux have the perfect mix of physical buttons and on screen controls.

The 12.3” screen which is standard from the base model to top model is a brilliant unit.

New RAV4 goes a tad too far.

What do you reckon?

2003 Toyota Avalon with the U140E automatic.
I dropped the transmission pan for a fluid service and found this internal steel hydraulic hard line crushed nearly flat with what appears to be a split in it (circled in the photo).
The line is visible immediately after removing the pan—nothing else has been disassembled.
My questions are:
Does this hard line come out with just the pan and filter removed, or does the valve body have to be removed to replace it?
Is this hard line available separately, or do I need to source it from another transmission?
If it’s interchangeable, what Toyota/Lexus models and years use the same line?
Has anyone seen one fail like this before, and could it cause harsh downshifts or hydraulic pressure issues?
Any Toyota transmission techs or rebuilders with U140E experience, I’d really appreciate your input.

So, the local dealership quoted me $900 for changing brake pads and smoothing down the rotors. This seems expensive to me.

1. What do you all think? Being overcharged or is this on the mark?

2. If i go to a mechanic not affiliated with Toyota and he repairs the brakes, does that invalidate my 125,000 power train warranty? Brakes are maintenance parts and have nothing to do with the warranty, so I'm unsure.