Hi all, I recently acquired a "new to me" S&W model 10-2 which was manufactured in 1961. It has plenty of holster wear (ex police gun) but is in excellent mechanical condition. Good lockup. Im in the process of some load development for it. My question is: Is forcing cone cracking anything I should be worried about with higher velocity 38 Specials? I.e 125gr around 1100 fps. Much appreciated reddit.

It's not much but it's my first wheel gun and I'm very happy with it its a Ruger LCR in 38+p

Got a Colt M1917 in .45 Auto, produced a month after the end of the Great War.

This one's cylinder bore is fully straight with no step, and a .45 ACP drops straight through.

Does anybody know when Colt introduced the stepped cylinder? I thought it was very early on after the first ~10,000 but this one is a post-WW1 (DEC 1918) serial. Cylinder's military serial number matches the rest of the parts.

Am I correct to assume long term use of a hardcase holster will wear the finish on my 442?

I prefer kydex holsters that allow the gun to snap in for carry, but I'm also vain and love the way my 442UC looks.

Pretty happy about this purchase! 1973 model 36! For 450, too. Excited to shoot it this weekend.

First wheel gun! Picked up for $480. Holster recommendations for the 6” barrel are appreciated :)

Decided my next revolver will be a used SP101 in 357 with the 2.25 barrel. I just can’t decide between the blue finish with hammer spur or the stainless steel DOA. No price difference between the two.

I do plan on carrying it while walking the dogs in black bear country. Most likely IWB (which is why I’m thinking DOA but that blued is speaking to me).

This may be blasphemous, but I think I like the old school Charter Arms snubnoses better than S&W. I now own two CA Stratford-era snubbies, and I love their fit and feel better than any of the five Smithies I've owned. That's in no way casting shade in Smith & Wesson. The craftsmanship of their older guns is impeccable. But mercy, the old CA's are fun and well built.

I've had the Taurus Tracker for nearly 10 years. It was the first handgun I purchased. Underneath it is a Cimarron Thunderstorm. It is my favorite revolver. Insanely smooth, half stroke and mushroom hammer, all done up into a "race gun." Though I dont shoot SASS/CASS. But its an absolute blast to shoot.

I got these grips but the normal grip screw doesn’t fit with them and it is a bit too large. I got these for a great deal so I’m not fussed. Is it possible to get someone to shave it down a bit or make a new screw? can a normal gunsmith do it?

S&W 67-1

Been wanting one for a few years now. Since my fiance carries my revolver I figured it was time to get another one. How do you guys like yours?

Smith and Wesson model 60-14

u/AdWitty6655

Here are some photos of a model 10 I rounded. I got the gun for 250 out the door after some haggling and I decided that I had one too many square butt K Frames so this would become round. I used a pair of old stocks as a template and went for it!

Not pictured is the finish with some cold blue. It's held up OK but I need to keep it oiled well

Edit: thank you all for the kind words, I appreciate it!

My first revolvers

Herter's sa22 22lr(bought used- reminds me ofv the 22 i was first taught with)

Ruger gp100 357magnum 2.5 " Talo (bought new - had to).

My 2 wheels [for now ] shopping already for 3,4, and beyond.

I recently acquired this 41 mag when cleaning I noticed a slight “lip or ledge” on each one of the riflings in the same spot for each ahead of where it would be for the forcing cone. Machining marks? None of my other smiths have it. Haven’t shot it yet so can’t speak for accuracy. Thanks for the help.

Bought a 2004 vaquero from bass pro, I know they check their guns pretty well but anything I should keep an eye out for? This would be my first revolver. Went 44 mag.

Had to repost, left serial on the last pic

Lew Horton Heritage series from 2001. CCH frame by Turnbull.

This is my first proper revolver, and I picked it up today from my FFL after ordering it online a few weeks ago. Description stated it was new, but I’m not sure if the one I got actually is. Is this amount of trigger and hammer buildup normal for a new S&W? I just want to make sure I’m not either getting duped or complaining about something that’s inherent to new guns since they’re tested in the factory. Thanks for any advice!

I usually don’t upgrade my guns.

I have replaced the grips on various pistols over the years, but I usually decide that the factory knew best, and return to the originals.

I usually replace the wood grips on my revolvers with rubber combat style ones. I appreciate the classic look of wood, but I own them to shoot, and rubber enhances my experience, both with grip and recoil absorption.

But recent posts here have inspired me.

I bought this 36-10 a few months ago. I didn’t need another steel frame exposed hammer J, but it was insanely cheap, and had that beautiful dark, almost black, blued finish that I find irresistible. I have found that I regret the guns that spoke to me that I didn’t get.

After reading about someone replacing their exposed hammer with the one from a 442, I decided I wanted to give it a try. I ordered one from MidwestGunWorks.com (apparently I was not the only one, they are currently sold out). I looked around YouTube and found a reasonable video about dissembling a J, and found that it did just drop right in.

I had bought a S&W RUBBER ROUND BUTT COMBAT GRIPS FOR J-FRAME REVOLVERS to replace the wood grips it came with.

A trip to the range was excellent.

I loved the look, and decided to put it in the carry lineup, after the 940, but before the 442.

But now I wanted more.

I bought a
SMITH & WESSON J FRAME REVOLVER REDUCED SPRING KIT
from TK Custom.

And, of course, if I am going to carry it, the rubber grips I use for the range are inadequate. They irritate my stomach after a while, and grip my T-shirts enhancing printing. The 940 and the 442 wear Recoil Rider CCW internal hammer grips, so I ordered a set of external hammer grips.

And yesterday I took it out to the range to test, along with the 442. Surprisingly, recoil seems equal. I expected the 442 to feel worse, but I guess the few ounces of difference don’t translate into noticeable recoil reduction, at least with standard Remington UMC .38 Special cartridges. The trigger was lighter, but not as much as I expected.

The 36 did behave differently, though. Initially it had wider groupings and was consistently high on the target, but after about an hour, and a box and a half of ammunition, it settled down nicely, performing as well as the 442.

Is it better? No, but it isn’t worse, either. The weight difference is imperceptible IWB. I don’t notice any difference in gripping the gun, so the grips stopping slightly lower to clear the hammer is not an issue, at least for me.

As I noted, the 36 has that deep luster that the 442 doesn’t. It also has a slightly different shape above the grip, which I find aesthetically more pleasing. The new spurless hammer fills the slot in the frame as well as the original one did, so there shouldn’t be any infiltration issues.

I am happy with the outcome. While from a mechanical perspective it is not an improvement, from an esthetic standpoint it is a great improvement.

I have learned a lot here, and gained the motivation to dig in and try some new things.

I appreciate it.